Concerts @ Solms-Delta

Hey la la, hey la la, hey la la – our voices were jiving, our hips swaying and our fingers clicking in time to Robbie Jansen’s slightly smokey voice as he gave vent to his own interpretation of Cape jazz – a fusion of musical influences ranging from traditional Cape Malay ‘goema’ and African rhythms to funk and salsa – in a song that most everyone knew, and I couldn’t help but learn given its enticing tune.

We were at Solms-Delta wine estate just outside Franschhoek for one of their renowned sunset supper concerts, ostensibly to celebrate the arrival of sunny days and long, balmy evenings – neither of which showed up for our concert – but this didn’t stop us thoroughly enjoying ourselves, blankets wrapped around our legs and shoulders …

Saturday sunset supper concerts play out on the estate, just off the R45 in the Groot Drakenstein district of the Franschhoek Valley, from 31 October. The setting is the grass and front stoep of Fyndraai restaurant, the surrounding mountains in the near distance, silhouetted against the sky as it slowly darkens, the vineyards in leaf close by, and a stream trickling behind us.

Solms-Delta Wine Estate

It’s a superb venue. Even better still is that the drive here is an effortless 45 minutes, provided you don’t get caught in traffic, and the sunset concerts on Saturdays are set between 6pm and 8.30pm, which means you’re home in bed by 9.30 if you’re me, or you head off to further the evening’s merriment elsewhere, if you’re not. If you meet up with friends, which just about everyone at the concert appeared to have done, then you might want to get there a little earlier, as once the music starts, there isn’t much talking that happens.

Solms-Delta concerts are not light background music. The evening effortlessly swung into Cape Jazz – Cape Town’s very own style of jazz combining influences from the carnival, the church, African and America – with the appearance of the estate’s band, made up of employees and family from the local community. Their ‘energetic, foot tapping, happy-happy’ music got the party going full tilt as people bobbed along, beat time with their glasses on the table or spontaneously leapt up to dance on the grass infront of the restaurant stoep, on which the performers swayed.

Solms-Delta is busy establishing a Cape Rural Music Centre – ‘Music van de Caab’ – at the estate to explore the origins of Cape music and the influences that European folksongs, the Khoekhoe, San musical traditions and other slave cultures from India, Indonesia and Africa have had on it. In the process they have uncovered a wealth of musical talent among the farmworkers and have been instrumental in reviving and further developing these musical styles, hence providing a stage for the locals.

Fyndraai Restaurant

As they were jiving, Robbie Jansen drove up with his band, and ambled across to join us at our table, oxygen tank in tow. It’s no secret that Robbie was very ill in 2005 and that the state met his bills, but the consequence is that he is seldom without his supply of oxygen, and can no longer travel long distances because of his respiratory condition. Robbie the man is not phased by this at all. When questioned, rather than seeing this as a hinderance to his continued performing throughout Cape Town, he sees it as an enormous opportunity to keep on playing.

And play he does! Completely self-taught, without much formal musical education – something he has in common with most top jazz performers the world over – Robbie’s rough, yet lyrical voice and his versatile saxophone sound are the result of over 30 years in the music business. Part way through, Robbie hauled out his flute and inspired the audience with yet further display of his virtuosity. He is regarded internationally as at the forefront of Cape Jazz, and has contributed and collaborated with some of the country’s greats, including Abdullah Ibrahim, Basil ‘Manenberg’ Coetzee, and Johnny Clegg, who got him to play flute and saxophone on Juluka’s debut album, Universal Men.

No surprise then that one of the Solms-Astor wines on the estate is called Cape Jazz Shiraz, which, to Solms-Delta’s knowledge, is the first ‘Lambrusco’ style wine made in the Cape. Slightly sweet and low in alcohol, the wine has what is described as a ‘celebratory’ fizz, and was just one of the wines on sample at the concert.

We had an amazing evening. The food in the form of a ‘Kaapse kos’ buffet was excellent, the company at our table stimulating, and the evening’s music a feast! According to the line-up, Robbie Jansen is back on 23rd January. But in the interim there are other notable performers that include Oom Jacobus and Tannie Hester Cloete the inimitabe guitar duo from Namaqualand, Hilton Schilder with his particular style of Cape Jazz with indigenous San flavours, and Ghoema Jazz with Mac McKenzie, to name but a few on the agenda. (See the line up here: http://www.solms-delta.co.za/main/events.html).

The concerts run from October 31st to December 19th and, after a break over the festive season, the schedule will be repeated from January 9th to February 27th. Don’t miss the chance to celebrate regional Cape folk heritage flavours on a particularly unpretentious and glorious wine estate.

All profits from Solms-Delta wine sales are shared equally between Solms-Delta (Pty) Ltd and the Wijn de Caab Trust, whose beneficiaries are the historically disadvantaged and employees of Delta Estate and surrounding farms and villages.

Details:
Time: 6:00pm – 8.30pm every Saturday.
Cost for an adult including food is R150 and children R65.
For bookings contact Annalize (restaurant manager) at Fyndraai on +27 (0)21 874-3937

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I didn’t know the Kalk Bay Modern existed, until a colleague of mine insisted on stopping off in Kalk Bay en route home from Fish Hoek one morning, not only for the more than choice hot crossed buns at Olympia Cafe, but also to whiz through a collection of George Hallet’s photographs on display at the gallery, but that’s another story!

The Kalk Bay Modern lies above the bottle store and stretches above the heads of those dining in the restaurants that line this block of Kalk Bay, including the Olympia Cafe. Its address is 1st floor Olympia Buildings, just in case, after my uneccesarily detailed directions, you get lost.

The Kalk Bay Modern gallery, which is also a framing shop, is notable for its incredible collection of contemporary modern art. It has beautiful views over Kalk Bay harbour, although when you’re looking at art on the walls, particularly at an opening, staring out at the views isn’t high on your list of priorities. But nonetheless, knowing the views are there definitely adds to one’s experience of the gallery. It’s also an unusually shaped gallery – long and fairly narrow, with windows down the length of the side facing onto the street

That said, the Modern gallery certainly doesn’t feel constricted, hosting a craft shop and a collection of an ‘eclectic mix’ of local South African art talent along with quality crafts from developing community groups. If you want to experience South African modern art, then this is obviously a good place to do so. I say this because I am anything but an art aficionado. Art appeals to me because of something I cannot begin to trace – mostly to do with bursts of primary colour and the artist’s ability to abandon pretention, but that’s a gut feel that has nothing to do with the commentary I heard around me on Wednesday night!

The gallery actively promotes local artists and designers. Aside from showcasing the textiles, ceramics, jewellery and photographic talent of the likes of Katherine Glenday, Christina Bryer, Yda Walt, Nic Bladen, Meagan Meredith, George Hallet, Amelia Smith and a host of others, they are also a window for local artists and crafters who make use of recycled materials, so you’ll find Heath Nash, Brett Murray, Willard Musarurwa and Wola Nani here too.

But we were there to see a collection of the works of Peter Clarke. This particular exhibition was entitled ‘A hot and quiet evening’. Peter works mainly with wood and linocuts, two ways of print-making that are regarded as similar and have been described as methods that ‘enhance and complement the simplicity and honesty of his subject matter’.

I didn’t know what linocuts were, so it was a whole new experience to learn that this is a printmaking technique in which one uses a sheet of linoleum into which one cuts with a sharp knife or chisel, so that the raised or uncarved areas almost act as a mirror image or reversal of the parts to show printed. You ink the linoleum sheet and then impress this onto paper or fabric, and the result is too beautiful and suits, in particular, these particularly African style works.

Peter Clarke, I learnt, is over eighty – although you would never have said that the little man who stood to make an eloquent speech after introductions, was eighty! Born in Simon’s Town Peter now calls Ocean View his home. I noticed that a lot of his works are tiny, but didn’t think to comment. It was only later that I discovered that this is because he works from his home, which does not have its own studio and that his works are small because practically he hasn’t the room to do large-scale works. Clarke is also an internationally acclaimed writer and poet and oscillates between the different forms of expression as the mood takes him.

He has illustrated books, written poetry, short stories, bound books, and, as a printmaker, has been influenced by the prints of the German Expressionists, Japanese woodcuts, and the works of Mexican artists Diego Rivera and David Siqueiros. I enjoyed his art, particularly a beautiful flower done in blue hues. His work is apparently selling like hot cakes, so get to the gallery before the pieces are sent to their new owners.

Book shops in both Obz and Kalk Bay regularly host off the wall evenings and we had but a block to walk up the road from the art gallery to the independent bookshop on the next corner. The atmosphere was a lot more subdued than that of the art gallery, and people were gathering, speaking in hushed tones as befits a book shop, before a mike that had been set up at a podium in the centre of the floor.

Off the wall is a regular poetry event aimed at poetry lovers and writers. They’re run by Hugh Hodge and it gives one the chance to listen to some of the city’s best poets read their own works. We were there to listen to Simric Yarrow read from his ‘Flying on the Lucid Fringe’ and other works.

Simric does performance poetry, which I found at once incredibly overwhelming and mesmerising. We are so used to seeing poetry as print on a page that we forget that poetry for centuries was spoken. Simric is also a musician and the skill with which he performs his poetry is quite astonishing and beautiful.

I think, because he was performing his own work, it was incredibly natural and almost like a second skin for him – I was blown away by the strength of his performance, but also the way he almost sang some of his lines that gave it a particularly unique movement.

We stayed until the break, whereafter the mike is opened up to anyone wanting to read their poems to a generous public. We left then but not before hearing that the next Off the Wall evening will host Finuala Dowling, an author and poet who lives in Kalk Bay and whose work I have both read and enjoyed.

Contact Details:
Kalk Bay Books, Majestic Village, 124 Main Road, Kalk Bay.
Telephone: +27 (0)21 788-2266

Kalk Bay Modern, 1st Floor Olympia Buildings, 136 Main Road, Kalk Bay (above Olympia Cafe).
Telephone: +27 (0)21 788-6571

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As you enter the generous courtyard, its perimeter under cover and brimming over with stallholders at wooden tables, black boards behind them announcing their wares, there is a generous aroma of bacon and eggs. On your immediate right is the Boeremark stall, there from early to supply you with bacon and egg rolls or a farmers breakfast. On the morning we arrived (which was our second visit to the market and the area) they had already stopped selling farmers breakfasts, so popular are they.

The space is brimming with families, conversation, laughter, wine and good, local food in abundance. Hermanuspietersfontein, the original name for Hermanus way back in 1855 before it was shortened (thank goodness, can you imagine getting that out first thing in the morning?), is the chosen name of a wine cellar and brand that uses these premises for wine tasting. As part of the Sunday’s Glen wine ward the farm was awarded champion status by the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI) last year. The farm lies nestled in the valley between the mountainous area close to Stanford and the Atlantic Ocean.

It’s a smart move to use their generous courtyard with seating for the weekly market, as where better to sell your wine! With food, goes wine. And it’s quite a collection of local quality food that you’ll find here. The cheese stall, run by Gerrie, usually has a bit of a queue, and, all of the cheeses are local in the sense that they’re from Cape Town and the surrounding areas.  Gruyere, blue cheese, goats cheese, you name it, it’s there, alongside a small but killer collection of cured meats – blackforest ham, pancetta and copper.

Other stalls include ‘eat Greek’, which, as its name suggests, serves delicious Greek foods that include tzatziki, humus, spanakopittas and dolmades; Matt’s fish, which had a selection of cob, red roman and kingklip – all fresh; a bread stall where an array of handmade artisan breads are baked by Jenny, whose husband Hennie used to do the incredible fish stall (it wasn’t there on our visit, perhaps Jenny decided breads would be a better idea?). Jenny described to us how she prepares her starters, mostly from wheat, to produce her breads, which sell at modest prices when compared to the Cape Town markets.

Auntie Gerda convinced us to part with our cash very easily. Her assorted cakes, small bakes, truffles and cup cakes are delightful and delicious. My other half will be returning simply to acquire more of her millionaires shortbread! Rita was selling a selection of homemade pies, whilst Jan and Marie served us an amazing pancake. That was by no means the sum total of the stalls, there were plenty of others that included an array of pickles, mustards and chutneys, droë wors, Gerald the coffee man, who apparently has been known to make 410 coffees on demand in 360 minutes, and more.

Also worth a mention are the fish cakes which we managed to sample. They were simply delicious and value for money, but I’m blown if I can remember from which stall they came …

There were a few characters at the market too, and, if you don’t mind the occasional warbling nasality of Celine Dion, take a seat, collect your goodies from the stalls around you, and bask off in the atmosphere of a large communal dining-room, where friends and family make a ‘thing’ of Saturday mornings.

When? Every Saturday 09h00 – 13h00
Contact: +27 (0)28 316-1875

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The Northern and Central Drakensberg falls into four valleys; Champagne Valley, Didima Valley, Amphitheatre Valley and finally the Middledale Pass Valley in the Northern Berg.

Big peaks in the Champagne Valley are Cathkin and Champagne Castle with peaks of 3149 and 3248 metres respectively and are some of the highest in the Drakensberg. Cathkin was named by Scottish settlers after an area near Glasgow in their native country and Champagne Peak was named by a climber who took a bottle of bubbly along with him to celebrate his ascent to the summit of the peak … and then accidentally dropped the bottle!

The Cathedral Peak and Didima Valley areas of the ‘Berg offer beautiful scenery (although where in the Drakensberg doesn’t offer magnificent views?) If you have a 4×4 and are in this area drive to the top of Mike’s Pass for picture perfect moments of the Central Drakensberg and Rainbow Gorge.

The Royal Natal National Park in the Amphitheatre Valley is a well known tourist spot and its most famous feature is the Amphitheatre where the mountain rises straight up to a height of 3000 ft. The Royal National Park also features Cannibal Cave where tribal people had to resort to cannibalism while hiding from Shaka Zulu as he searched the area for his enemies.

To me, the best place in the ‘Berg is Loteni. Also well known for its beautiful scenery, Loteni Nature Reserve is part of the Southern Drakensberg and is located between Kamberg and Sani Pass. As its only 70kms away from the village of Nottingham Road it’s a perfect day trip if you are in the area Midlands Meandering.

For the hiker there are a number of good walks and the birding enthusiast will not be disappointed with the wide variety of bird life to be seen; 150 different species have been recorded in the reserve. If however you are like me and you prefer to just do nothing then the rivers offer excellent entertainment. Take an amble down to Cool Pools and spend the day swimming and baking dry on the flat rocks.

I’m going back to Loteni in December and I can’t wait!

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Photograph: Loteni Waterfall – Courtesy of and © South African Tourism

One of the most popular routes to the top of Table Mountain is via Skeleton Gorge, a trail that begins in the Kirstenbosch Botanic Gardens, on the mountain’s eastern slopes. Perhaps not the friendliest-sounding little wander, Skeleton Gorge isn’t as ominous as it sounds – a reasonable measure of fitness will have you there in around four hours (at a gentle pace, without stops).

The Gorge is actually a ravine, and leads quite steeply up the ‘back’ of Table Mountain. It’s shaded by forest nearly all of the way, so though the incline is sure to give those leg muscles a workout, you’re sheltered from the sun, walking in the cool of beautiful indigenous vegetation and some magnificent Yellow- and Ironwoods. Anyone visiting Table Mountain should take note of the reserve’s array of endemic fynbos (the beautiful and hardy scrub-type bush that carpets the Cape Floral Region) and proteas, but if you’re doing this hike during January or February, keep an eye out for the beautiful red Disa that flowers around that time as well.

The closer you get to the top, the trickier Skeleton Gorge becomes, though still in the spirit of challenging fun as opposed to ‘turn around I wanna go home’. You’ll have to negotiate loose river stones and a series of ladders designed to help you over the steeper bits, but after that the going gets easier, and then take a look around – you’re on top.
Congratulations, you’ve conquered the Gorge.

And now you have some options. A short distance away are the Hely-Hutchinson Dam and Woodhead Resevoir, huge bodies of water one almost can’t imagine are up there when you’re standing down in the city. They’re worth a look, and a good spot for a quick bite to eat, though usually far too cold for swimming. Follow the Kasteelspoort signpost.

Or, if your legs are still good to go, follow signage to Maclear’s Beacon, the highest point on the Mountain at 1 085m above sea level. Marked by a stone cairn placed by Sir Thomas Maclear in 1844, some people would say you haven’t hiked Table Mountain if you haven’t visited this spot. From here it’s an easy-ish walk along the flat table top to the Cable Way, where you can hop on a car for a quick yet scenic trip back down.

Still keen for the descent? Rather than going back the way you came (boring, not to mention a little too steep), take Nursery Ravine back down to the Gardens. It’s not signposted but it’s the fourth route of the four-way split.
Now, wasn’t that worth a little sweat and a few stiff muscles?

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The gravel track starts on Tafelberg road just off Kloof Nek. The track is named after the pipeline that runs next to the track and was built in 1887.  The pipeline conducts water from two of the dams on Table Mountain and to filtration plant that you pass along the way.

Like many of the walks in and around Cape Town the pipe track offers a bit of a lesson for those interested in the history of the city. Early on in the walk you pass the Blockhouse aqueduct, named after the abode of a garrison of French soldiers working for the Dutch East India Company, which was built in about 1780 to protect the route over Kloof Nek. Another set of attractions are all the ravines and gullies that you pass, starting with a gully called Diepsloot that takes you through a forested area and to the Kloof Buttress which forms part of this side of Table Mountain.

Fountain Ravine is another gully that you’ll pass. As you progress pass this gully you might be able to see a cave which was the hideout of a deserter from the HMS Sceptre which made its way into Table Bay in 1799. He had been forced into joining the Royal Navy in Jamaica and hid out in this cave for 14 months living on dassies and shrubs before escaping on a Scandinavian ship.

Blinkwater is another ravine you’ll pass. Blinkwater means ‘water that sparkles’ presumably because of the beautiful view of the sea that you’ll get from here. Luckily once you get back to your car it’s only a short drive down to the pristine beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay, so keep that in mind as you brave the summer sun to get to the end of this walk.

Slangolie Ravine marks the ends of this walk. This is a back-and-out route so you’ll have to retrace your steps along the route you came but with so much scenery to appreciate this shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

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Two Oceans Aquarium

It’s a pretty valid question when asked by a four-year old en route to the Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town, but it had me stumbling for a moment as, with my indicator stuck, my head craned round to see oncoming traffic, and my other finger reaching for the air conditioning that needed a mighty overhaul if you consider the angst with which it was emitting tepid air, my brain and mouth couldn’t get in synch to wrap around the rather meaty ‘Indian and Atlantic, love’.

Just as well it isn’t the Pacific Ocean that meets the Indian or the Atlantic, or my child would have spent at least ten minutes talking about specifics. The Two Oceans Aquarium based at the V&A Waterfront is probably the only major tourist attraction to which Capetonians actually go. Well okay, that and Table Mountain, Boulders beach and a couple of others. But what I’m actually trying to say in a roundabout way, is that it is a great place for locals with children, particularly given the current ‘Take 4!’ special, which allows two adults and two children to get in for R180.

Two Oceans Aquarium

The Two Oceans is beautifully laid out. There is an almost ‘other worldly’ atmosphere about it and one is immediately lost in amongst the aquarium exhibits. Every time I manage ten minutes infront of the kelp forest I make an undying promise to return on my own for contemplation to get the creative juices going. I have yet to do so, but I will!

Kelp forests, such as this one, are only displayed in two aquariums in the world – the other is Monterey Bay in America. This one in particular houses three types of giant kelp. I must say, if I were a fish, this is where I’d like to be…

On our last visit, my son had his back to the exhibit when the aquarium’s CEO (or at least I think it was he) took that moment to make a dive in his scuba gear and reared up right behind my son, who jumped about ten feet in the air much to the hilarity of all at the exhibit at the time. And you don’t have to be the CEO to dive in the kelp forest.

Two Oceans Aquarium

You’ll need an advanced scuba qualification, but with it you can feed the hundreds of fishes contained in the 800 000 litre exhibit, or dive with the sharks in the I&J Predator Exhibit (for this you’ll need an open water one or discover scuba qualificaton). See Diving at the Two Oceans Aquarium.

The Kelp Forest is by no means the only highlight at the aquarium. Exhibits are divided into an Indian Ocean and Atlantic Ocean gallery, each of which has an array of displays full of vibrant fish, crabs, eels and whatnots.

The Atlantic Ocean gallery is great for the older kids as its full of jelly fish, octopus, Knysna seahorses and giant spider crabs, whilst the Indian Ocean is full of darting, colourful fish typical of more tropical regions. So you’ll see butterfly fish, damsels (not those in distress), surgeonfish and angelfish.

A quick tip: should you need a diversion, find Nemo and Dory in amongst the Indian Ocean gallery.

Two Oceans Aquarium

Frogs beyond the pond should work its magic too. It’s a fairly new exhibit brought about by the International Year of the Frog (2008). There’s a large touch screen to magnify the different frogs, many of whom are under threat, there’s a frog puppet show, which outlines the journey of the Western lepard toad from a suburban garden to a wetland – it’s a win of an exihibit for both big and small, especially when surrounded by giant arum lillies, mushrooms and clivias.

And just when things start to get tough – you’ll have made your way through a whole floor of exhibits – you’ll head down the ramp towards the Afrisam Children’s Centre and get a few minutes respite, whilst you watch the seals continue their antics under the water. There is always a series of arts and crafts on the tables for children. It is a great space for them (and their parents) to relax and daily puppet shows  introduce them to the world of Peter the penguin, Nemo and a rather menacing shark.

Two Oceans Aquarium

Upstairs is the Sappi river meander you’ll find a colony of African penguins and rockhopper penguins, African black oystercatchers and a series of river fish, although you might have to breathe in slightly shallow breaths as it can get a little smelly and a tad warm up here.

Somewhere in between, or after, make time for the I&J predator exhibit where rays, loggerhead turtles and ragged-tooth sharks swim peacefully side-by-side and then when you can no longer remain on your feet, head down to the Shoreline Café, which, thank goodness, stays open until about 6pm and does a few mean ‘family-oriented’ meals.

It’s a good place to meet friends in the afternoon, followed by a meal if you intend missing the traffic out of town again. There is also a dedicated children’s play area that gives you a well deserved cappuccino break! (The restaurant has just been renovated and transformed into a deli/self-service facility, due to open again in the second week of November).

Two Oceans Aquarium

There is always something new going on, and various other fun things – such as sleep overs, evening lectures, competitions and gala evenings. And children can have their birthday parties here too. So when you’re next at your wits end for an outing – head off to the Two Ocean Aquarium.

Contact:
Address: Two Oceans Aquarium, V&A waterfront, Cape Town
Telephone: +27 (0)21 418-3823
http://www.aquarium.co.za/

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The evening will be commemorated with a once off gala performance from both past and present stars of the ballet. With a most fitting title the Happy Birthday Ballet will take the audience through the CTCB’s history. From the early beginnings at the UCT Ballet Company, through the days of CAPAB Ballet right until the Cape Town City Ballet as it is today.

Appearing alongside the CTCB company are past stars, some of whom are travelling from as far afield as Switzerland and St. Petersburg. Some of the familiar faces audiences can expect to see are Elizabeth Triegaardt, Eduard Greyling, Catinka van Vlaanderen, Carol Kinsey, Annette Middleton, Tracy Li, Janet Lindup, Allison Foat, Philip Boyd, Owen Murray, Clare Shepherd-Wilson, Veronica Paeper and many more …

On 20 and 21 November the CTCB company will be presenting 3 performances of Balletscapes which features a new ballet from Robin van Wyk called African Landscapes as well as works from other CTCB choreographers. Also to be enjoyed by the audience in these performances are excerpts from popular ballets by the late David Poole, Veronica Paeper, Andre Prokovsky and others as well as the Grand Pas from Paquita. Cape Town really is in for a treat that weekend.

I have such fond memories of going to see ballets such as Giselle, Copelia, Sleeping Beauty and Romeo and Juliet while growing up. It was always a privilege to be taken to the Artscape (then Nico Malan) by my mom to watch these beautiful dancers take to the stage and create a new world for me to disappear into for a few hours. And with the CTCB being the only professional ballet company in Cape Town it is vital that we support them so that they can carry on bringing little dancers dreams to life.

When and How Much?
If you would like to be a part of this weekend then make sure you book your tickets today. Balletscapes takes place on 20 November at 20h00 and on 21 November at both 14h00 and 20h00 with tickets ranging from R95 to R150 per person. The Happy Birthday Ballet, performed on 22 November costs R220 per person.  Tickets are available through Computicket or you can telephone +27 (0)21 421-7695.

Websites:
Artscape: http://www.artscape.co.za/
Cape Town City Ballet: http://www.capetowncityballet.org.za/

Photo Credits:
Photographs © Artscape

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Farmstalls on the N2

As the N2 summits Sir Lowry’s Pass and begins its meander through one of the most lovely valleys known to man – the Elgin Valley is sumptuous it is such a feast of beauty -  it passes no fewer than five farmstalls distributed fairly evenly on either side of the road (if you’re smart, you can stop at one or two on the way to your destination, and then another couple on your return).

We were headed to Vermont, the little village not far from Hermanus that has enjoyed a fair amount of attention if the number of holiday homes is anything to go by. We took it upon ourselves to stop at four of the farmstalls in an effort to do a comparison and to see just what each of them offers – besides, it’s great fun to fall out of the car, meander around the grounds, have a look at all the goodies, make a selection or two and then, between mouthfuls, rate the nosh …

Not even half an hour out of Cape Town, the Orchard Farmstall in Grabouw lies in the bend of the N2 in a pretty setting.  Facing out on the parking lot, its pathways strewn with climbing roses, is the farmstall, a coffee shop and a Wildekrans wine tasting venue, behind which lies the inevitable estate agency. Turning off the N2 towards the farmstall, we couldn’t help noticing that a particularly unattractive mall had gone up just across the road from them fairly recently – can’t help wondering if it has affected passing trade?

Orchard Farmstall

The coffee shop is not much to write home about. The food, based on a quick squizz through the menu, is typical of roadside restaurants – pies, pasta, salads that border on boring, hamburgers, an array of soft drinks and coffees. But then you come to Orchard Farmstall to sample the cakes! And what an array. From apple tart to chocolate mousse cake, via an incredible looking lemon cheesecake, just about every one’s taste is catered for here – and they’re all baked on-site. There was also a mouthwatering array of muffins and breads, although, on asking, the breads are made with pre-mixes.

The shelves are lined with home-made jams and preserves – anything from orange, passion fruit, pear and ginger to pineapple, apricot, strawberry etc. There are local and imported teas on sale, any number of local arts and crafts and then an array of the usual – chips, sweets, cooldrinks – that we’ve come to expect from farmstalls. There is a lovely jungle gym for little ones to play on and the grassy surrounds of the farmstall make a good spot to sit and picnic if you’re so inclined.

Orchard Farm Stall photographs – click to enlarge

A little further down the drag (the N2 that is) a large sign advertising Thandi wines, farm kitchen and crafts. We were rather excited at the prospect, but it seems that we chose the wrong day as there wasn’t much in evidence at the time. The restaurant had a number of clientele though, and I could see why – the menu looked particularly enticing, with homemade babotie and pie, and scrumptious breakfasts, whilst at the other end of the room was a wine tasting bar. The roaring fire, on what was yet another one of the Cape’s freak cold spells in November, was also most welcome.

Thandi Wines

What I didn’t realise is that Thandi wines were the first Fairtrade wines in the world! (for more on  fairtrade see World Trade Fair Day) Thandi is a true empowerment project with 90% ownership in the hands of its workers. It’s the first enterprise in South Africa where the workers are equal partners with the state, the community and private enterprise in a profit-sharing farming venture! (awesome)

It goes a long way to explain the gorgeous little vegetable and herb garden into which we stumbled to one side of the restaurant and children’s play area. At Thandi you can pick your own vegetables fresh from the fields, although the fields usually dedicated to vegetables were being prepared for new crops from what we could see. And according to Susan Kroukamp, who manages the restaurant, craft centre and farm stall, much of their home-cooked food benefits from the vegetables grown here, and they use their own vegetables wherever possible (what I didn’t ascertain was whether or not they were organically grown).

The farmstall and craft centre, unfortunately, were undergoing refurbishment so weren’t open. By all accounts it’s usually filled with home-cooked, home-baked, hand picked goods and produce. We’ll be back!

Thandi wines, farm kitchen and crafts photographs – click to enlarge

Our next stop was the Houw Hoek farmstall. They’re famous for their pies and lay claim to the ‘best pies in the land’ (we thought we’d put them to the test, but more about that later). Judging by the number of cars that make their way through here on any given day (we stopped off here on a Thursday and a Sunday and both days were equally busy) this is a popular venue.

Houw Hoek farmstall

It’s a little further along the N2 from Thandi Wines, on the right-hand side of the road, as opposed to the left, just before you reach the Houwhoek pass and into the Caledon Valley. Again, you don’t come to the Houw Hoek Farmstall to savour its typical roadfood in the adjacent coffee shop; if it were in Cape Town, you probably wouldn’t frequent it at all, but the farmstall is probably the best of the lot. Certainly it easily jostles for first place with the Peregrine Farmstall, on the other side of the Houhoek Pass.

The deli side of things is well stocked – olive oils, vinegars, nuts, preserves, jams – much of it locally sourced, or at least as much as they can. The service is excellent – you are not left to idle away your time dreamily infront of the shelves, but rather in moments your needs are met and information is easily forthcoming.

But back to their pies and sausage rolls, for it is for these that the number of passers by stop – certainly their pie rack is cleared out at least once a day by hungry bikers and roadtrippers (what is it about being inside a car that brings on the pangs of hunger?).

I’m not a pie fan, but I can attest to the excellence of these. My other half succumbed to one where the pastry was melt in your mouth stuff.  I believe that there are certain fans that can write an ode to their pies, so popular are they! And that is without mentioning the wine section of the stall, adjacent to the shop that supplies a good range of wines from the region.

Houw Hoek Farm Stall photographs – click to enlarge

Last, but by no means least, we made a stop at the Peregrine Farmstall, close to Grabouw. Apart from the fact that I felt as though I’d stepped onto the set of Heidi (the farmstall resembles similar shops in the southern German region), this was a stall that was humming with activity.

Peregrine Farmstall

They have a tradition of quality homemade fresh farm produce, and you can smell it the minute you walk in the door. Home made breads, pizzas and pies come rolling past you down the aisles, baskets are overflowing with fresh produce, and if that doesn’t tempt you, then the myriad deli-style foods will – anything from homemade pastas to delicious homemade sundried tomatoes.

Right in the front of the stall are an array of quiches, tarts, cakes, pecan nut pies, muffins and other delights, and all reasonably priced. The fridges were filled with anything from keoksisters to mosbolletjies. They also boast a Saturday morning market that looks well worth attending. Peregrine Farmstall claims to emphasise all things natural, organic, handmade and wholesome – all of which I’m in favour!

Peregrine Farm Stall – click to enlarge

So, which farmstall to choose? The choice is yours!

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The Pink Flamingo

Is it too early in the week to be thinking about the weekend? We think not! So let’s get up to date with the next two weeks of funky, fun events that are happening at The Grand Daddy Hotel. In case you are unfamiliar with this hotel, The Grand Daddy is one of the places to be in Cape Town.

Not only are the staff warm and hospitable, but the penthouse trailer park, that is home to a collection of 7 vintage Airstream caravans all with the backdrop of Table Mountain, is a unique and inspiring venue that will be host to all of these events. And if you are concerned that the weather may be a bit dodge don’t worry the events will just move a few floors down and will be hosted in the Daddy Cool Bar (an equally cool place to find yourself in!).

And let me mention this first before you start to wonder how much this will cost you, these events are free of charge, yes you got that right – it isn’t everyday you can be entertained by some fantastic musical acts with no cover charge. But … let me remind you that you will need to settle your bar tab at the end of the evening …

The Pink Flamingo

Dave Ferguson rocks the roof on Friday (20 November) from 18h00 to 20h00 come and join your friends or organise a group from work to join you on the rooftop for sundowners and ease yourself into the weekend. With an ice cold beer or glass of wine in your hand you can let your hair down while Ferguson’s one man show entertains you by using only a harmonica, human beat-box, vocals and recording live loops of music which in turn is all created into a fabulous sound.

If you are unfamiliar with a’capella music then you definitely shouldn’t miss the musical act of D7 on Wednesday 25 November from 18h00 to 20h00, these guys are making waves with their fresh sounds. A’capella basically means that you sing unaccompanied (i.e. no backing tracks), these guys bring a new spin to a’capella with reworking old favourites (Michael Jackson) and new favourites (Goldfish) and putting their own spin to the music.

It’s fabulously entertaining and you will definitely have a great evening out with them on stage. Think beat-box, think up beat and think fresh harmonies!

The Pink Flamingo

The Pink Flamingo is dedicated to restoring the experience of cinema with this outdoor cinema. The Pink Flamingo is a Roof Top Cinema in Long Street, Cape Town. The cinema features cult classics, cartoons and family favorites. Tickets are R50 and it includes a cone of sweeties, a welcome drink and a choice between an Eskimo Pie, candy floss or popcorn. Now that is definitely a bargain.

If you’d like to snuggle up to someone special on a secure, comfy couch on the front row (it does fit up to 3 people) you can do so for only R200 and this includes all the goodies mention earlier as well as a selection of cold drinks in a private cooler box.

Screenings take place on Sunday and Thursday nights and all movies start at 19h30.
It is essential to book, so let me show you the line up for the upcoming weeks:

Sunday 15 November – Double Indemnity
Thursday 19 November – Cinema Paradiso
Sunday 22 November  – Karate Kid
Thursday 26 November – Breakfast at Tiffanys (re-run)

Contact:
If you want to find out more about any of the above telephone The Grand Daddy Hotel on +27 (0)21 424 7247 or visit them at 38 Long Street, Cape Town.
Website: http://www.pinkflamingo.co.za/

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The first session is quite “instructional” and lasts about 40 minutes. After a short break the real deal commences and the facilitation becomes “on the run”. This means that the group is divided into smaller groups and are shown how to play interlocking cross-rhythms and even some simple solo pieces, all supported by the Drum Mania band. The facilitators come off stage and mingle with the group to make it a personal interactive experience. The advanced players are encouraged to do their own solos and are shown more complex parts, all on the run.

Within an hour everyone is perspiring good African drumming sweat and we take a break!

The last set is usually about 30 minutes and is called a “foliba” (West African for jam session). The band guides everyone with a simple rhythm and then they are encouraged to add to this making any rhythm in time to the bass drum. The jam increases in tempo with the Master drummers on stage doing exhilarating solos and performance and advanced drummers joining in until eventually it is so fast that it becomes a “rumble”. The beat is so enthralling that very often people jump up and start dancing!

The great thing about this event is that it is suitable for all levels from “beginners” to advanced players and is also a great showcase of African talent for tourists and locals.

When & Where?
Every Wednesday from 20h30 to 22h30 (doors open at 20h00).
Bookings for dinner advised.
The Tafelberg Restaurant & Bar, 6 Roodehek Terrace, Gardens, Cape Town
Telephone: +27 (0)21 465-6852

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Otter Trail Photo by Jomilo75 onFlickr.com who says: “As you can see, the trail literally runs along the coast. For much of the trail you are following painted paw prints on the rocks as opposed to an actual trail”.

Still keen? Why wouldn’t you be? This hike has been touted as a life-changing experience. It’s not often you get to put your physical endurance to the test like this, And as far as introspection goes, the five days and four nights are bound to teach you a little bit more about who you – and your fellow hikers – are.

Your trail accommodation consists of four overnight stops with two six-sleeper huts each. Mattresses are provided for the triple bunks, and the amenities stretch to a table and a toilet, but everything else – sleeping bags, food, pots and gas burners for cooking – you’ll have to carry with you. Braai facilities are available, and firewood is left along the trail (to add to your load) but it’s strongly advised to bring the aforementioned gas cookers along too. Water is available throughout the route from the reserve streams and from rainwater tanks at overnight stops (don’t rely on these if rainfall has been sparse), though purification tablets might be necessary if your system’s not used to roughing it.

If you were wondering about the trail’s title, it’s named for the Cape Clawless Otter, a species that occurs in and around the area. And it’s easy to guess why this particular name was chosen – the trail is most well known for its river crossings. Yes, that’s plural. Be prepared to get wet, there are eleven crossings in total. Two of the larger rivers (Elandsbos and Bloukrans) are really only manageable at low tide, so you need to plan ahead and keep an eye on tide schedules and rainfall measures.

Another Otter Trail Photo by Jomilo75 onFlickr.com (Creative Commons License)

But don’t worry, because time to plan is one thing you’ll have plenty of – the immense popularity of this trail means that it’s not unheard of to have to book a year to sixteen months in advance. Bookings can be made through the South African National Parks. (contact details below).

Heavy packs, steep inclines, long all-day slogs, the river crossings and more than a little rock scrambling preclude anyone under 12 or over 65 from doing the trail, and for anyone in-between a reasonable degree of fitness is required (you’re obviously looking at more than a walk in the park).

But whether you do it for the incredible scenery, the physical challenge or simply the post-hike bragging rights, the Otter Trail should definitely be high up on your hike-before-I-die list.

Otter Trail Reservations:
Telephone: +27 (0)12 426-5111
Fax: +27 (0)12 343-0905
Visit the SANP website for bookings – Otter Trail Bookings

Photographs:
View a Flickr Slideshow of photographs taken on the Otter Trail. (3214 photos tagged Otter Trail!)

Kicking off their professional career in 2003 the Parlotones grew from strength to strength and in 2006 signed a European licence deal all thanks to their debut single “Beautiful”. I have only seen the Parlotones perform live once, way back in 2006 when they were the opening act at the Bellville Velodrome for the band Live. When I heard their haunting lyrics and watched the band perform, Kahn (lead singer) was particularly impressive on stage, I knew that this would be a band to watch out for as their music appealed to more than just a commercial audience. I was hooked.

They have since performed over 200 times all across the globe (South Africa, UK, USA and Europe) and some of their most memorable performances include Live Earth and Coke Fest. They have won numerous awards, including a SAMA (South African Music Award) for Best Music Video of the Year 2009 and their albums have reached platinum status in South Africa.

To celebrate the release of their latest album, Stardust Galaxies, the Parlotones have kicked off with an international tour with concerts performed to audiences in the UK, all across Europe as well as a debut performance in Australia at the One Movement for Music Perth festival. If you are feeling a bit jealous at the moment because you would really like to see them perform live on home ground, then you should perk up to hear that this epic tour culminates in 2 performances in South Africa.

Cape Town is lucky enough to see them perform first on Friday 13 November at Grand West Casino’s amphitheatre and the tour winds down with an estimated 19,000 fans at the Coca Cola Dome in Johannesburg on Saturday 14 November.

If you haven’t already purchased your tickets (mine are in hand, ready to be rocked in the golden circle in Cape Town) you can get them from Computicket at a cost of R166 for general admission and R218 for golden circle.

I am definitely looking forward to being a part of this awesome celebration of one of South Africa’s best known and well loved rocked bands.

Website:
The Parlotones – The Official Website

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The unbelievably beautiful valley that holds Robertson, McGregor, Ashton, Bonnievale and Montagu in its embrace has something magical about it. And if you don’t believe me, visit it yourself and you’ll understand what I mean. The secret is to take the time to stop in the towns, as we did in Robertson and McGregor, so that the charm of each can find its way into the corners of your mind. Because it won’t be anything tangible or something you ‘discover’; the magic is simply there for the taking, you have but to imbibe …

McGregor Photographs by Dplanet on Flickr.com (Creative Commons License)

It happened that my choice of hideaway lived up to all expectations but had one major drawback. Robertson in summer is VERY warm (read: bladdy hot) and a couple of days where even the vaguest breeze refused to make its presence known necessitated a hasty retreat to somewhere cooler. In this way we got to know both of the little villages, but McGregor in particular.

There are over 40 wineries in the greater Robertson / Bonnievale part of the Breede River Valley. This is the part of the world where the Wacky Wine Weekend attracts thousands of visitors, and encounters with wine estates are one of the more pleasant outings in the valley. Robertson is a good old-fashioned country town. Some of the houses here have been restored to their former glory and chain stores like Pick n Pay and Spar have taken up premises. Capetonians have second homes here, whilst others having chosen to retire here – it isn’t difficult to see why.

But it was McGregor that really stole our hearts during our stay in the valley. The brochures describe the town as a jewel, and ‘the best preserved and most complete example of mid-nineteenth century townscape in the Cape Province’. But whilst this description does indeed capture the landscape of the town, it doesn’t explain the charm and almost other-worldliness of the village.

McGregor’s main road is lined with traditional, whitewashed and thatched cottages. The streets are quiet, the town is small, the mountains surround the town, and time seems to stand still.

Perhaps it is that McGregor lies on ley lines and is recognised as a sacred site because of the high level of natural energy they bring to the town that it feels like a natural place for creativity and healing. Artists, potters, craftsmen, healers and plenty of other characters have made the little town their home, and Temenos retreat and wellness centre is based here.

A drive along the main street is enough to have you oohing and aahing. A number of the houses here are cob and strawbale, thanks to the influence of local Jill Hogan who runs McGregor Alternative Technology, an advocate of alternative energy, permaculture and sustainable building, and gardens are half-wild whilst water trickles past in old stone irrigation channels.

McGregor Photographs by Dplanet on Flickre.com (Creative Commons License)

We were content to drive around whilst the air conditioning in the car kept us cool, but after a while exploring the town’s side streets, a number of which peter out into sand roads, we decided that a pit stop was in order and pulled again into the main road to explore our options. We ended up at Villagers farm stall and restaurant. They have a selection of the surrounding area’s arts and crafts and stock all of Rhebokskraal’s products.

In fact, after some chatting with the lady at the till, we discovered that the shop was actually run by Rhebokskraal, the olive estate. Not only was the olive tapenade one of the best we’d ever tasted, but the olives are farmed organically. Their oliva secca (dried olives) is close to heaven, and the seating area down the side of the restaurant/shop under a series of grapevines, a welcome respite from the heat of the day. If you manage the trip, make sure you sample their olive chocolates, a combination of salty dried olives and sweet dark chocolate! Hmmm

After a couple of hours spent sipping tea and ginger beer under the vines, we wondered across to Deli Girls Bistro. A strawbale house this used to be a series of stables and is brimming over with breads, cheeses, smoked salmon, home-made produce and even frozen meals, so if you’re self-catering whilst staying here, you don’t need to go far to find your meals.

The only thing McGregor seems to lack is access to fresh vegetables and fruit, but there is a weekly farmers’ market in Robertson or stop off at the Affie Plaas Farm Stall just before Robertson. There are also a number of people in town with their own vegetable gardens who might be persuaded to part with the odd salad or beetroot.

The grounds of Temenos are simply beautiful. As its name suggests, these grounds are dedicated as a sanctuary or holy precinct, isolated from everyday living space. While it is marketed as a ‘country retreat’, the exquisite gardens and sacred spaces create something serene and almost sanctified – in many ways Temenos feels something like the grounds of a monastery, although there are no rules or religious agendas here there are regular silent retreats.

Hard to believe that in 1997 these gardens were fields of fynbos and scrub. Now Temenos takes up a number of blocks of McGregor and is well worth a stop. To walk through their gardens is something they allow freely, and you won’t be sorry you took the time!

McGregor lies at the foot of the Riviersonderend mountains, roughly 20 kilometres from Robertson and about two and a half hours from Cape Town. The road through McGregor runs through the village and then comes to a stop. It was never completed and is commonly known as the ‘road to nowhere’.

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Cherry Festival

Ficksburg didn’t mean that much to me until I visited the pretty little town set on the banks of the Caledon River. It lies at the foot of the beautiful Imperani Mountain in the Free State, for those of you who didn’t know, and I had only heard of it before the festival because a school friend of mine hailed from there (and since we were at school in Durban at the time, you can understand how she was regarded with a fair amount of  incredulity).

First off let me say that if you’re a fan of cherries, then this is the festival to attend. For the last couple of years at least, cherries seem to have given the shelves of my local Pick n Pay the run around. That, or they were in and off the shelves so fast that I didn’t even catch a whiff of the dainty red stoned fruit! Thus a trip to the Eastern Free State around the third week of November may be the closest you will get to this delectable dainty …

Cherry Blossom

The Ficksburg Cherry Festival is the longest running festival in South Africa – 42 years old this year. The whole town comes out in celebration. There is a huge market, cherry tours, a half marathon, cherry product competitions, beer fests, a new food and wine fiesta, the incredibly popular, and slightly horrifying, cherry pip-spitting contest, the ‘ready, steady, bake’ competition as well as a quick lesson in how to make cherry mampoer, a cherry liqueur known as the local ‘moonshine’.

Since I was there the festival has had a slight shift in focus and now sport is placed high on the list of agenda, which is probably not going to do that much by way of encouraging me to return. But a rather large percentage of our society would scorn my general disregard for sport, and would love to watch ex stars of the cricket, soccer and rugby world sharing their skills with young hopefuls.

The Steam Train

If, however, you’re after something with a little more culture, then there are visits to both cherry and asparagus farms, and cruises along the waterways just outside the town of Ficksburg aboard what is described as the country’s only floating cigar bar known as the White Mischief, which includes a gourmet meal and several malt whiskies. There are cooking workshops for the more creative at heart, or you can do as we did – take a steam train from Sandstone Estate and escape Ficksberg completely, cherries in tow!

The steam train, in similar fashion to the now no longer functioning Apple Express in the Eastern Cape, leaves Ficksburg and travels through farmlands towards the Caledon River on the Lesotho border. It was an amazing journey filled with sunflowers, fields of corn, amazing examples of sandstone farmhouses and an incredible sunset.

The Scenery

It gives you a couple of hours to quietly reflect and gaze at scenery whilst reliving what it must have been like in the days when steam engines were the main form of transport around the country. The downside was that we left our ride until pretty late – hence I was starving and our entire quota of cherries for the weekend quite depleted by the time of our return (we hadn’t reckoned on the length of the journey).

There is also an annual Reefsteams Association steam train ride to the Cherry Festival from Boksburg East, if steam trains are your thing, although by all accounts these are already fully booked! (contact them on +27 (0)11 956-6409)

Ficksburg Cherry Festival

During our visit, we managed to stay in a little cottage in the neighbouring town of Fouriesburg, as by the time we began our search for somewhere to stay, all the ’spots’ in town had already gone. Totally off the beaten track we had a little cottage set beneath a pretty bower of jasmine all to ourselves, and could use the excuse of travel to lie in in the mornings (we had family to meet at the festival).

The first successfully planted cherry trees in the country were in the Clocolan district in the year 1905, brought into South Africa by German missionaries with early settlers. Today there are around 500 hectares worth of cherry trees in the Eastern Free State mainly in and around Ficksburg, Clocolan and Fouriesburg. Cherries are harvested from October to December (hence the choice of November for the festival).

Cherry Picking

This same region is also known as the asparagus region of South Africa and from September, hundreds of tons of asparagus are harvested. I can attest to how delectable this particular vegetable is when fresh from the farm!

But it is the tiny ruby-red fruit, ripe and ready to eat that is undoubtedly the star of the festival. Take a tour to neighbouring orchards to pick and guzzle and perhaps, by the close of the weekend, you may have satiated your desire for this luscious delicacy.

For those of you who actually intend returning with enough cherries intact (ungobbled) to follow this recipe, it is well worth savouring, and borrowed from the official cherry festival website, courtesy Ronel Thake-Fouriesia:

Danish Cherry Tart
Fill a flaky pastry shell of flan case with stoned cherries, soaked in sugar and sprinkle with a pinch of cinnamon.

Cover the cherries with a mixture of the following:
100g softened butter
100g sugar
100g ground almonds
2 eggs

Bake the tart in an oven at a moderate temperature. Leave to cool, cover with gooseberry jelly and glaze with rum.

Enjoy!

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Cape Quarter

This is one of Cape Town’s best kept secrets because it has something for everyone, health, beauty, fashion, lifestyle and food all in one unique venue with typical Cape Malay architecture. This is a place that epitomises cool and if you want to be with the who’s who then you should make your way to the Cape Quarter …

This is such a fantastic space that is brought together with the central piazza which in itself is a meeting place for friends and family before they explore the Cape Quarter’s wonderful opportunities and hidden treasures. The Cape Quarter Piazza can be found at 72 Waterkant Street, Green Point …

This November sees the grand opening of the Cape Quarter Square and it certainly will be a grand affair. From the 7th to 15th November you can expect a myriad of events and if you attend the opening you will have a chance to win. The Square can be found at 27 Somerset Road, Green Point.

Cape Quarter

What can you expect over this period you are wondering? Firstly you can be enthralled with fabulous works of art at the Cape Quarter Art which takes place in both the Piazza and the Square on Saturday 7 November form 10h00 to 17h00. Don’t miss this opportunity to see various collections of artworks from a number of the galleries in the Cape Quarter as well as independent artists and members from the Cape Town School of Photography. Expect to see ceramics, photography, wood carvings as well as contemporary South African Art.

At both venues on Saturday evening you can see a fashion extravaganza with some of the hottest trends this season on the ramp at the Square and if you’d like to see some of these more closely you can do so afterwards at the Piazza. Some of the Cape’s school art departments will be presenting Eco Fashion where the brief was to create designs representing the Cape Quarters Stores, but only using recycled material. The City Varsity will be presenting their annual Body Spectra, with talented students showcasing their art in the form of body painting. This year’s theme is Cape Trade Routes.

Cape Quarter

On Sunday 8 November the Symphony of Light takes to the stage with a combination of laser and ultraviolet light shows as well as fire dancers and music from the Hout Bay Strings. This takes place at both venues from 19h00 to 21h00.

If you find yourself browsing through the Cape Quarter from Monday 9 to Saturday 14 November and you think you may have seen a famous face walk past you, why not have a second look because all day during the week various celebrity look alikes will be wandering through the Cape Quarter and you may be the lucky recipient of a free gift if you spot them. Light, live music will be performed daily from 19h00 to 22h00.

Jenny Morris a well known South African chef joins forces with the Cape Quarter for the Food and Brandy Festival on Friday 13 and Saturday 14 November. There are various activities and demonstrations taking place from 10h00 to 17h00. Such as Cooking with Jenny, The Art of Chocolate Making, The Essence of Fine Brandy and so much more.

The event winds down on Sunday 15 November with a classic Sunday brunch which is a perfect way to sit back and relax and take in all that you have experienced the week before.

With so much on offer at this opening you need to make sure you don’t miss out. The festivities start this Saturday so call your friends and make a day or evening or both out of it!

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Franschhoek

Friends got married at Moreson Wine Estate last weekend so we used this as a good excuse to spend the weekend in Franschhoek.  It was a lunch time wedding and we live in Cape Town, so strictly speaking two nights in Franschhoek was not really necessary but then again, it’s Franschhoek and it’s always a treat to spend time in this beautiful town!

We arrived on Friday evening and there is something quite special about driving through the valley as the sun is setting.  We really do live in a country with the most breathtaking scenery …

Reuben's Restaurant

On Friday evening we dined at Reuben’s (No 19 Huguenot Street, Franchoek), a first for me at this great restaurant and it hopefully won’t be the last.  The interior of the restaurant is open with high ceilings and lots of space; one doesn’t feel as if one is on top of the next table.

The service was attentive but not too overbearing and the food was, in a nutshell, stunning!  I had a beetroot, asparagus and goat’s cheese salad to start followed with perfectly cooked lamb.  Other options on the menu were roast duck (also delicious) and a very tasty Espresso brulee to end the meal.

August House

We spent both nights of our stay at August House.  These self catering apartments are located on the main road, directly opposite the N G Kerk.  Two of the four apartments have a balcony – perfect for sitting outside for a morning coffee while contemplating the view!  I couldn’t fault the accommodation; comfy beds, a decent shower, MNet and great decorating.

There is also a superb craft shop (Due South) downstairs that sells products made by African people.  Once you’ve shopped up a storm sit down at the Pancake House next door and read the paper while waiting for your sweet or savoury pancake.

I love Franschhoek – one could spend hours wandering the town and don’t forget to visit the Huguenot Memorial and gardens for a bit of background info on the history of the town.

Desirable Digits:
Rueben’s  Restaurant – Telephone:  +27 (0)21 876-3772
August House – Telephone: +27 (0)21 876-4560

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There are few options these days for young children that do not involve a whole load of violence, foul language and adult understanding. In fact many of the so-called children’s shows and movies these days seem to cater more for adult humour? The Puppet Theatre makes a welcome departure from that, and shows run every Saturday morning at 10h00 and 11h15.

To date we have watched The Frog Prince, Prince George and the Dragon, the Easter Rabbit, Rumplestiltskin, Hansel and Gretel and probably a host of others that I have forgotten, since shows change on a monthly basis. The stories are never longer than 45 minutes and are beautifully told by a narrator, while the puppet characters perform the story, with accompanying sounds effects, behind her.

The atmosphere is created at the outset in a lovely little room, panelled with stars and flowers and dimly lit with candles. Each show commences with the singing of “Somewhere over the rainbow”, presumably the theatre’s ‘brand song’. Oggi, the resident hedgehog, begins each show by telling a little of what is to come and warning of any potentially scary parts, such as the witch in Hansel and Gretel. The theatre is recommended for four-year-olds and up, but my three-year-old has always enjoyed it, bar the odd scary part spent on my lap!

The stories are punctuated by songs and rhymes, and the puppets themselves are cleverly handled to do everything from carrying items to smacking each other – none of the old Punch and Judy slapstick is found here! I am always amazed by the scene changes, complete with wings and backdrops, which make it feel like a ‘real’ theatre, only in bonsai form.

Entry is R15 for all, which will increase to R20 from January 2010, their first price increase in ten years! Tea, coffee, fruit juice and the odd home baked biscuit are on sale before the show. I must  confess that most shows we have attended have all begun late, but that is probably to allow for  latecomers, and always finishes on time. Birthday parties can also be hosted at the puppet Theatre, with the garden of the Waldorf school providing a lovely outdoor area in which to play.

Contact & Address:
Address: Constantia Waldorf School, Spaanschemat Rd, Constantia, Cape Town.
Telephone: +27 (0)21 783-2063 or +27 (0)21 794-2103
Times: Saturday mornings at 10h00 and 11h15. Please call to confirm show.

Useful Links:
Constantia Attractions
Things to Do in Constantia
Constantia Events
Constantia Accommodation
Constantia Family-friendly Accommodation

Farm outside Bloekomsbos

Saturday was a day filled with new discoveries and interesting stops. We visited a local farmer, Erick, on his farm just outside Bloekomsbos, accidentally discovered one of the Stellenbosch jewels – Joostenberg Deli – and uncovered a gem of a garden centre just next door.

Erick Zenzele is the farmer that sends us a bag full of peas, cabbage, mixed lettuce leaves, beetroot, broccoli and spinach every week. His farm (his land has been loaned to him by a local farmer) just outside Bellville in Cape Town is part of the local CSA (community supported agriculture) project supported by Slow Food Cape Town together with the Sustainability Institute. A group of families in Cape Town help support the farmers involved by paying upfront for our bags of veg. But it’s also a way of reconnecting with our food. As ‘consumers’ we now know exactly where our vegetables are grown, and after our visit on Saturday, by whom …

After finding out what secret ingredients he puts in a big vat of compost tea, why he plants pansies with his turnips, trading ideas for wind breaks, and leaving with a slip of an ingenious little weed that Erick assured us will grow like topsy becaue it acts as a shield against the wind that rushes through his crops, we headed home imbued with the happy time we had experienced whilst Erick took us around his crops.

En route back to the N1 from the farm we drove straight past Joostenberg, and since tummies were rumbling and demands for treats were issued from the back seat, we decided a slight deviation from the original plan to be home in time for lunch was a good idea all round.

Garden Village

Right next door to Klein Joostenberg Deli, which is part of Joostenberg winery – a family affair but more about that later – is the van den Berg Garden Village and wholesale nursery. I mention it not for its array of, well, garden stuff, but also for the originality involved in the presentation.

The entrance to the centre is under a rainbow attached to two ‘Easter Island’ type columns. On the rainbow is written ‘discover a paradise of colour and fragrance’ and a little further in, a similar rainbow invites one to ‘add wealth to the earth!’. It’s a sublime array of plants and garden paraphenalia set in amongst the trees and under canopies. Part of the second rainbow is the bid for ‘paper pots’, the how to’s and what for’s that show you how to make your own paper pots and steer away from plastic. You can also buy a wooden ‘potato farm’ that shows you how to grow your own organic potatoes at home in a box.

After a quick tour of the nursery (quick being the operative word, as when my other half gets going in a nursery, we not only lose hours, but half of our life savings as well!) we headed into the country deli and bistro. Even before uncovering the source of the wonderful deli type goods on display, we got into conversation with Tyrrel Myburgh about his wonderful wines.

Joostenberg Deli

Tyrrel has been farming his vineyards organically since 2005 and applied for certification in 2008. The process takes three years and he was granted a credit for 2007 as his soils tested favourably, so the wines are currently organic in conversion but the 2010 harvest will be fully organic. We sipped and discussed his wines, bottled with a simple yet striking label and succumbed to a couple of bottles to add to our pathetic collection at home.

The food served at Klein Joostenberg is good old fashioned peasant-french and is a wonderful spot at which to have lunch, particularly as there is also a play area for children. I’ve heard whispers about their chicken pie that makes the drive out here more than worth it.

Not just that, but the place has an entire butchery dedicated to pork. There are cured hams and proscuitto-style meats and delicious pork dishes on the menu. Whilst they’re not farming their pigs organically, they don’t use routine antiobiotics and no unnatural foods are fed to the pigs. The deli is said to have the best pork products in town with a fine menu of country cooking – baguettes, home-made ice-cream, honey, jams and preserves, milk straight from the cows, handmade cheeses and, yes, those incredible pork products.

Joostenberg Wines

Joostenberg Deli lies on Muldersvlei farm. It’s been accused of ‘overdelivering on quality for the price’ and this is indeed the case. Over weekends you can partake of a two or three course meal for a more than fair price whilst junior gets to play on the jungle gym. It is run by Christophe Dehosse, the chef behind the wonderful meals, and his wife Susan (Tyrell’s sister, in case you are interested). Philip and Gill Myburgh, three of their children and seven grandchildren all live on Joostenberg, making it a family affair.

We departed that much richer for having stumbled on yet another venue well worth discovering and one to which we definitely intend to return!

Address & Contact Details:
Joostenberg Farm, Muldersvlei, Western Cape
Telephone: +27 (0)21 884-4303

Useful Links:
Western Cape Attractions
Things to Do in Western Cape
Western Cape Farm Stalls & Markets
Western Cape Accommodation

Botanical Gardens

Harold Porter is a really pleasant surprise! In fact, it’s one of the Cape’s best kept secrets …

I had forgotten just how gorgeous the drive from Cape Town to Betty’s Bay along Clarence Drive, known also as Route 44, is. We were to visit friends in Somerset West in the evening and, since it looked as though the day would be clear, we ambitiously set off for the Harold Porter Botanical Garden, a long-delayed visit, one we had been meaning to make for too long.

Fortunately for us, despite roadworks in Somerset West that could have turned our journey into a complete misery (and threatened to on our return journey, but that’s an aside for later) we joined Clarence Drive where it skirts the western end of the Hottentots Holland mountain range at Gordon’s Bay with not even a minor hiccough and virtually no mutterings about rude drivers.

Harold Porter

Whilst the wind was gusting in Cape Town, Clarence Drive was relatively unaffected and we were encased in a seamless capsule of blue seas, azure skies and breathless mountain scenery. False Bay falls away down the rocky mountain side to your right, whilst fynbos clad mountains loom to your left. It’s a paradisaical vista, one that easily equals Chapman’s Peak, but without the continuous road closures that dog the link between Hout Bay and Noordhoek.

As we left Gordon’s Bay behind us there were periodic viewpoints en route where several cars at a time can safely pull off the road to drink in the views. I would imagine the road serves as a really good whale watching area too, although the choppy waters below prevented sightings on this occasion.

Clarence Drive is incredibly relaxing, not only because of the obvious beauty of your surrounds, but also more subtly because you can see your destination constantly, where Hangklip Point stands suspended, appearing to almost veer off in the other direction from the rest of the mountains on the eastern shores of False Bay, giving one a sense of containment.

Harold Porter

We passed through Rooi Els and Pringle Bay at Hangklip Mountain, without mishap. Betty’s Bay always catches me by surprise. It is one of the most pretty and beautiful coastal parts of the Cape, not least because it lies, as does Harold Porter National Botanical Garden, within the Kogelberg Biosphere.

Kogelberg really is the heart of the floral kingdom in the Cape. Of the world’s six floral kingdoms, it is not only the smallest, but by far the richest. Size for size the 70 000 hectare Biosphere Reserve is home to the most complex biodiversity on earth with 1 300 different plant species per 10 000 square kilometres. Second on the list behind us lies the South American rainforest, which brings to mind incredible beauty. Yet they have only 420 plant species per 10 000 square kilometres.

When one reads stats like this, it puts into perspective how spoilt we are, and how vulnerable!

It’s interesting to note here that Biosphere Reserves are a fairly new concept. They are fenceless, so there is no wedge between nature and people. Whilst it is evident that there are guidelines for building within the Biosphere – Betty’s Bay’s houses are all surrounded by fynbos and the buildings are not gargantuan – the focus is on living with nature so that our children’s children will still have a healthy and sustainable environment in which to live.

Harold Porter

Harold Porter is a really pleasant surprise! In fact, it’s one of the Cape’s best kept secrets! Anyone in Cape Town who tries to go on a picnic at Kirstenbosch will vouch for how ridiculously busy it can get, particularly when the summer sunset concerts start. Well, we’ve found an alternative. Sure, you have to drive for roughly an hour and a half to get there, but for the peace and serenity, and the incredible range of plants and the pretty gardens set right against Disa Kloof and Leopard’s Kloof, it’s worth it.

The gardens lie in a floral hotspot, dominated by the sandstone peaks of the Kogelberg (hence the name of the biosphere). They all set on a slight incline and from almost everywhere in the garden, the sea is visible. Simply put, the garden is heavenly.

There’s a fairly new restaurant at the entrance to the park where you can lunch, or you can picnic in the gardens themselves under a tree. The garden is just the right size for a number of people to have more than enough space to do their own thing and yet is compact enough to circumnavigate with ease, achieved within the space of an hour or two – depending on how long you take to look at plants. There were a number of avid photographers out when we were there, for whom this was nothing short of a day’s trip.

Harold Porter has a number of reflection ponds in which there were frogs and tadpoles, there is a wetland ecosystem right in the heart of the garden that is really worth a visit, as is the dune ecosystem which gives one a real indication of just how valuable sand dunes are to beaches and their surrounds. Up in the northern reaches of the garden is a limestone fynbos and renosterveld ecosystem that looks as if its paths have been made using crushed mother of pearl shells.

After a picnic and various forays through the garden, at a run for our son doesn’t do things sedately, we had a little time to squash in a visit to Stony Point to see the penguins. For any visitors to Cape Town who have not managed to get to Boulders Beach, this is a wonderfully relaxed (and not full of people) alternative. The entrance fee is nominal, and, like us, you might be lucky enough to hold a baby penguin found marooned in Hermanus, probably taken there by a tide.

He was about to go off to SANCCOB where he will be rehabilitated and then set back in amongst his peers. Without his mother to look after him he wouldn’t survive. If you’re interested, you can adopt a penguin and help SANCCOB continue the work they do for these vulnerable, likely to become endangered birds.

PS: there is an alternative to the N2 through Somerset West and its myriad robots – the continuation of the R44, onto which we veered in a bid to circumnavigate the overcrowded N2 at the bottom of Sir Lowry’s Pass.

Photo Credits:
Photographs used in this article are all by derekkeats on Flickr.com (creative commons license).

Useful Links:
Harold Porter Botanical Gardens
Bettys Bay Attractions
Things to Do in Bettys Bay
Bettys Bay Accommodation
Cape Overberg Accommodation

For a small R20 entry fee (all proceeds go to The Red Cross Children’s Hospital, and in particular will be used to buy lifesaving equipment for the new Operating Theatre Complex) I gained access to the ‘hall’ and strolled along the rows of exhibitors.  On sale were all sorts of lovely things, perfect for Christmas shopping …

One stand had the most interesting trays – with bent cutlery for handles!  Very quirky indeed.  Amongst other things were kitchen blackboards, jewellery holders, photo frames, Panama hats, delicious biscuits (I know, I bought three packets!), jams, bags and various other trinkets.  There was also a wide range of garden accessories and a stall selling custom made kitchen furniture.

The two organisers of the fair travel the country and source exclusive and mainly handcrafted, upmarket gifts.  This really is an ideal place to start the Christmas shopping or perhaps just to buy a few fun things for your home!

A friend joined me for a quick bite to eat at Jonkershuis after I had done my Christmas shopping.  Jonkershuis is situated at Groot Constantia and offers the most perfect views from their lawns out across to False Bay.  If its too windy then perhaps move into the courtyard under the vines – both are lovely and make for a perfect lunch location!

Jonkershuis also offers the option of having a picnic basket made up to enjoy on their lawns.  Including all sorts of delicious nibbles from local cheeses, sliced meats, pates and brownies to round off the meal, this is a fun way to have a relaxed group lunch.

All in all a lovely lunch time outing – great shopping, delicious food and the most gorgeous surroundings.  Again I had to remind myself, I am so lucky to live in this beautiful country of ours!

Photographs:
Top photo – Christmas Gift and Garden Fair at Groot Constantia
Middle photo – Lunch at Jonkershuis
Bottom photo – Groot Constantia

The Red Cross War Memorial Children’s Hospital Trust:
The Children’s Hospital Trust is an independent charity and the fundraising arm of Red Cross War Memorial Children’s Hospital, the stand alone, specialist children’s hospital dedicated entirely to children in Southern Africa. Visit the website for additional information at: http://www.childrenshospitaltrust.org.za/

Useful Links:
Constantia Attractions
Things to Do in Constantia
Constantia Hotels
Constantia Accommodation

Outeniqua Powervan

For anyone travelling through the scenic George / Knysna area, one of the attractions is, or always has been, the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe, one of the last remaining steam trains in Africa. However, many will be as disappointed as we were to learn that the “Choo-Tjoe”, as she is affectionately known, has not run since June 2009.

So what does a family with two train-mad young boys do, to stem the disappointment? We were lucky to learn from the Transport Museum that something called the Outeniqua Powervan was running in its stead.

Now steam, it is not, but train it is, with only two cars or carriages,  seating only 12 people each, and powered up the railway pass by a ‘motorised trolley’. So we made our booking, which you need to do, and prepared for our departure at 11h00. (A second run had been added at 14h00, since it was holiday season.)

The railway pass travels parallel at times, to the old Montague Pass, and the train powers its way up to the highest point. The journey is accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, who narrates details from the resident flora, to the history of ox wagons traversing the hazardous pass. At points on the upward journey you can view all three passes; the old dirt road, the railway pass and the majestic new road. The upward route ends at the point at which the railway pass and old Montagu Pass meet – the old road is worth a leisurely drive on an alternate day.

On the upward journey one passes through six little tunnels, which were a sheer delight for our two young boys! At times the pass is so narrow that you think you are going to brush the rock face on either side! The railway passes through areas of forest and fynbos, including an abundance of king proteas, culminating in spectacular views at the summit.

The return leg brings you back through the six tunnels, with the cars travelling in reverse order, offering passengers an alternate view. About halfway down the pass we stopped at a picnic site, to enjoy our packed lunches and take in the surrounding scenery. The Powervan descends back into the Outeniqua Transport Museum in George, which houses an array of steam locomotives and carriages from days gone by. Save some time either before or after the journey, to explore the amazing history of travel in South Africa, including a fascinating photo gallery of steam trains.

The two hour experience, with an additional half-hour for lunch, costs R95 for adults and R75 for children; a worthwhile way to spend a morning. An alternative for the active at heart, is to take a mountain bike with you on the up journey, and cycle the 15km back down the Montague Pass into George and to the railway museum.

The railway line between George and Knysna was declared an officially preserved line in 1992. With the Southern Cape storms of 2006, the line was extensively damaged and closed for reconstruction. The Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe has at various times resumed operations along the scenic route between George and Hartenbos, and then extended onto Mossel Bay, but a lack of funding and maintenance to the line has again resulted in its closure. The Powervan however is an interesting and worthwhile alternative.

Useful Links:
Garden Route Attractions
Things to Do in the Garden Route
Garden Route Hotels
Garden Route Accommodation

We happily abandoned our rental car (no private vehicles are allowed in the reserve) and scampered into the back of the open 4×4 safari vehicle, while our game ranger collected and stowed our luggage. Then we were off on our +/- 30 minute “transfer” to the lodge. Within minutes, Welgevonden lived up to the meaning of its name (well found), as we sloughed off the tiredness of the trip and found that sense of peace and the true relaxation that can only be experienced in the bush, with an almost immediate sighting of a Zebra mother and foal …

The 34,000 hectare reserve is home to over 50 mammal species (including the Big 5), prolific birdlife (over 300 species) and more than 10 different lodges offering accommodation to visitors in search of the ultimate holiday – a game experience. The lodge we would be calling home for the next 3 days is Sediba Private Game Lodge. This 5 star, thoroughly luxurious lodge is set on a rocky hillside amidst a forested valley proliferated with trees and their warm and cold blooded inhabitants.

Arriving at the lodge, we were warmly greeted and escorted through the main lodge, to our own private chalet, one of only ten, all connected via wooden walkways. The lodge is unfenced and we were immediately advised to call reception for an escort should we wish to leave our suite at night. Though safe to walk around during the day, the lodge has been visited by the occasional predator and the adage “better safe than sorry” is immediately appreciated.

Our palatial suite could not have provided a more comfortable respite. The open-plan bedroom and lounge area feature floor to ceiling windows and doors opening onto our own private deck surrounded by trees, with a Jacuzzi for 2 and an outdoor shower.

Though at first disappointed that we’d arrived too late to join the afternoon game drive, this was swiftly allayed by the discovery of a troop of Vervet monkeys which seemed to have made the trees surrounding our chalet their sundowner spot for the day. We settled into the Jacuzzi with a glass of fine South African wine and watched them leap from branch to branch. Their inquisitive natures led them closer and closer (one was brave enough to scamper onto our deck), but just a movement or word from us and they’d disappear, darting back to the safety of the branches from which they’d come.

Nightfall brought its own wonders. After a quick outdoor shower as the sun set, we were collected with a smile and escorted to dinner. I won’t spoil the surprise, but let me assure you that dinner at Sediba is an event and though you may be tempted to indulge in a candle-lit dinner in the privacy of your suite (something I highly recommend), make sure that you experience at least one dinner in the Boma.

Although not one who enjoys waking up early the 6am wake-up call had me bounding out of bed, eager to set off on our first game drive. Moments later we had embarked, cameras and binoculars in tow. Three of the Big 5 graced us with their presence over the course of the next 2 days – lion, elephant and rhino (Welgevonden boasts one of the largest rhino populations of any private game reserve in South Africa) – but my favourite sightings are always of the “less in demand” inhabitants of the reserve – a herd of Waterbuck making a hasty retreat and thereby showing off their target-like markings on their rears, Warthog scrounging and digging for roots, Klipspringers hopping from rock to rock, being introduced to a huge scorpion.

Between game drives, indulge in a massage at the Health & Wellness Centre, take a dip in the pool or relax on the deck with a good book. If you like to sit and watch the open plains in the hopes of spotting some game, Sediba may not be for you. Its location, though stunning, does not offer great game watching from the lodge itself – you are unlikely to look out and see giraffe, antelope or other large game, though monkeys, birds, butterflies and the odd klipspringer are frequent visitors. But Sediba offers a tranquillity seldom experienced elsewhere. That delicious sense of boredom, which leads to an afternoon nap, is so rare in today’s frantic lifestyle and to read for 4 hours and not feel like one should be doing something more productive, is an unexpected joy.

Two days later, setting off on our return journey to Johannesburg, it wasn’t long before our cellphones began chirping again and the roads became progressively busier as we approached the airport. I felt a sweet sense of loss – one which will only be alleviated with my return to the African bush. Peace, tranquillity, relaxation and an appreciation for our natural heritage are well found at Welgevonden Private Game Reserve.

Photographs: Click on the thumbnails to view large photographs:

Useful Links:
Welgevonden Hotels
Welgevonden Game Reserve
Limpopo Game Reserves
South Africa Game Reserves

Cellars-Hohenort

I took myself off to the Open Gardens at The Cellars-Hohenort yesterday afternoon.  I must admit the weather was already a bit windy so I was in two minds about going but I’m very pleased I did.  The gardens are spectacular and are acknowledged as some of the finest hotel gardens in the world and voted by Garden Design, a top American magazine, as one of the top 30 hotel gardens in the world.

On arrival at the hotel I was met by five ducks and it looked as if they were out for an afternoon waddle, just to keep tabs on their estate!  Close behind them was their ‘minder’ who needed to round them up and take them ‘home’ but clearly this was not part of the equation for the ducks at they scattered to hide in the thick foliage!

The hotel has the most beautiful rose gardens and this was not just my sentiment as I watched a fellow visitor crush an insect underfoot explaining as she did so that ‘they kill the roses!’  The roses; in beautiful deep reds, white and oranges are in full bloom and one could almost sit down on the strategically placed bench and breath in the gorgeous scent these flowers give off.

Cellars-Hohenort

I was unaware how big the gardens are with pathways meandering through wooded areas, over streams, around ponds and up along a vineyard!  Also of interest are the eight Camphor trees.  These trees were originally brought to South Africa from Japan by the Dutch East India Company and were planted in 1690 along the road that came out from the castle to Constantia.  Most of the trees have disappeared with urban development but eight remain on the hotels grounds and are lovingly cared for.

The hotel and its gardens are situated in the heart of Constantia Valley and boast the magnificently restored 18th century Klaasenbosch wine cellars and the Manor House of the Hohenort.  You would want to stay there for the views across the 9 acres of gardens alone!  Tables and chairs are placed all over the gardens – beckoning one to sit and just enjoy the stunning surroundings.

Cellars-Hohenort

I can’t believe this beautiful place is a mere five minutes drive from my home and it’s taken me two years to visit!  I will definitely go back to The Cellars-Hohenort gardens but perhaps next time for afternoon tea or a martini too!

Garden Tours:
Garden Tours every Tuesday morning at 10h30 – Booking essential.
Herb Garden Tours with the Chef Every afternoon from 15h00 till 15h30 – Booking essential
To book phone: +27 (0)21 794-2137
Cellars-Hohenort, 93 Brommerslvlei Road, Constantia, Cape Town

Useful Links:
Constantia Valley
Constantia Valley Hotels
Constantia Valley Accommodation
Things to Do in Constantia Valley

Outeniqua Country Hop

One could be forgiven for thinking that the ‘country hop’ is some sort of quaint rural dance, but the Outeniqua country hop in the Garden Route is a tourist route, initiated by a group of local women to help put local trade in and around George on the map. The clever play on the term ‘hop’ was inspired by the abundance of hops growing in the area, a plant used in the manufacturing of beer, and unique to this region in South Africa.

We picked up signs for the Hop on the R404, as we drove out of George. With two young boys in tow, I was taken with the icon of the tractor, which accompanies the hop signs, since a tractor ride in any guise would provide my boys with a lot of excitement! The icon however appeared to be more of a symbol than a reality, although clearly much of the beautiful scenery through which one passes is working farmland.

Red Berry Farm

Our first stop was the Red Berry strawberry farm, which is located in an area called Geelhoutboom. Having been strawberry picking in the greater Cape Town and surrounds, I did not think that this was an activity in which we would partake. However my six-year-old was clearly keen and so he and his father, tub in hand, (they measure by tub size rather than mass here) popped off in search of those red berries.

My younger son was quickly attracted to the lovely playground activities and we managed to fill the picking time quite easily, by exploring jungle gyms and feeding the resident bunnies. What makes this strawberry farm different is its wonderful restaurant and garden area, which Cape Town farms seem to lack, and a place to munch those hard picked strawberries. I noted that many elected to order scones and cream to accompany their pickings! The shop also boasts a number of strawberry related products from jams to yoghurts, coulis and juices.

Father and son returned very pleased with their harvest and the strawberries were indeed as tasty as they looked! The location definitely filled up towards lunch time and it is clearly a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. Visiting on a Friday we noticed preparations underway for a weekend strawberry festival. However given the size of marquees and anticipated activity, I was glad that we had visited on a less frenetic day!

Silver Lily Cheese Farm

On our way out I noted that we could also visit a mushroom farm, which I am sure would have provided an interesting insight into the growth of mushrooms, should I have been more partial to the taste of these little fungi!

Our next stop was the Silver Lily cheese farm, a Dutch style farm situated on the Geelhoutboom road. A tour was on the go for the resident school children, which includes the process of cheese making, but we popped around the back to the tasting room, to see what was on offer.

Cheese tasting can be accompanied by a glass of wine, and a variety of mainly hard cheeses is on offer, including a number of herb, garlic and smoked varieties. The cheeses are certainly not cheap, but tasty, and it is encouraging to support a local supplier.

Village of Herold

The Outeniqua Hop begins in Herold’s Bay, a rather upmarket seaside cove – if property prices were anything to go by – and passes through Geelhoutboom, the location of the strawberry and cheese farms, to ascend the Montagu Pass, to the little village of Herold, which boasts its own wine farm.

(There’s a beautiful map by the way on http://www.outeniquacountryhop.co.za)

Hops is abundant on the route and grows in creeper form, scrambling up rather complex string structures. The creepers grow at an alarming rate of 100 mm a day and the cones are harvested during February and March.

I suspect that during this time, tractors would be in abundance!

Useful Links:
George Attractions
Things to Do in George
George Hotels
George Accommodation

Bloubergstrand

It is a humbling experience watching a child have their first experience of the beach, something that I as a Capetonian often take for granted. My cousin and her 13 month old son came down to Cape Town from Johannesburg for a visit.

The day they arrived was quite a typical summer’s day, hot with a bit of wind and we decided that it would be a great opportunity to go down to the beach, after all the little guy could have his first taste (literally) of the beach sand and see the sea …

We took a drive down to Bloubergstrand and parked in the parking lot near the Dolphin Beach Complex, which I might add is home to the Blowfish Restaurant which serves delicious sushi and seafood. The wind can be quite strong in this part of Cape Town and this makes it great for some, but unpleasant for others. It is clearly visible that the kite surfers find this area fantastic by the vast number of them you will find on almost any given day.

View of Table Mountain

Nonetheless we braved the wind, wrapped some towels around us and proceeded along. The little guy was absolutely mesmerised by the beach sand and promptly sat down on it and poured it through his fingers almost immediately as his feet touched the sand.

Once we had moved him out of the way of all the foot traffic and found a spot to sit, he tasted the sand and looked quite pleased with himself. All the while fixing his eyes on the various, colourful canopies of the number of kite’s in the sky and around him on the beach.

We decided to walk him down to the sea so that he could stick his toes in the water. This little guy walked with no fear headed straight for the cold crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean while holding mom’s hand and almost pulling her forward. Squealing with delight as the end of the waves ran over his toes it was definitely a fun experience.

Kitesurfers

Next, we decided to head down the paved walkway for a stroll so that we were not in the way of the kite flyers who were flying large kites at the waters edge. We had a lovely view of Table Mountain and all the kite surfers who were performing a number of tricks in the water. To round off the afternoon we treated ourselves to a soft serve ice cream from the Milky Lane.

If you are wondering how to spend a lazy afternoon the I suggest making your way down to Bloubergstrand where you can find a sheltered spot and work on that summer tan, take a stroll along the beach or just find a quiet spot and watch the various activities happening on the beach and in the waves. This turned out to be such a special day and will be etched into my memory forever. Why not go and make your own memories?

Useful Links:
Bloubergstrand Attractions
Bloubergstrand Accommodation
Blaauwberg Attractions & Info
Things to Do in Blaauwberg

Photo Gallery

Click on thumbnails to view …

Bengal Tiger

I can’t say I have ever seen lions, cheetahs, leopard, caracal and tigers all ‘in one sitting’, and I have definitely not ever seen Bengal tigers, jaguar, pumas or serval cats, other than in pictures! Well at Jukani Wildlife Park you get to see them all, admittedly with a bit of coaxing from the guide and her meat bucket!

Jukani lies just outside Mossel Bay, with indicating signs off the N2 en route to Cape Town. On entering the Park, having paid an admission fee of R280 for two adults and two children, it is clear that the facility is well maintained and each enclosure appears to be of a suitable size for the creatures it houses. All of Jukani’s animals are wild, though many have been bred in captivity. The park exists to preserve the different species, and in some cases has taken in animals that have been abused and mistreated.

Leopard at Jukani

We joined up with a guide who was working her way along the enclosures, discussing each animal in turn and trying to coax them to come out of their hides so that we could get a better view. Some, like the tigers were happy to oblige, but others, such as the black leopard, were a rare and fleeting sight.

Each cat has its own special history and it appears that the two Bengal tigers, Juka and Shanti, were hand-reared by hosts, Karen and Jurg. (Apparently Juka had colic, an ailment I thought only affected the human race!) My only reservation is the bridging of the tenuous, and sometimes dangerous divide, between a wild and a hand-reared animal, and am never convinced that man can enter enclosures with these cats, no matter how much healthy respect exists. Clearly this couple is committed to conservation and the preservation of these species, but I cannot get used to white lions in enclosures, side by side with cheetahs, and my wish was that these magnificent beasts might have remained in the wild.

Leopard at Jukani

The staff are quick to caution that none of the animals are tame and ask that children not run within the Park. I could see why, when both the cheetah and the lion, whose giant paw easily equalled the size of my son’s head, kept a beady eye on my three-year-old toddler as he passed. He was definitely viewed as potential prey!

We paid our visit during the morning and tours take place between 09h00 and 16h00. We were encouraged to return for the 16h00 feeding, but I was intent on maintaining a safe distance between my toddler and the rather obvious association with food!

Contact Details:
Jukani Predator Park, N2, Mossel Bay, Garden Route.
Telephone: +27 (0)44 698-2004
Website: http://www.jukani.co.za/

Useful Links:
Garden Route Attractions
Things to Do in Garden Route
Mossel Bay Accommodation
Garden Route Accommodation

Boskloofswemgat has a number of simple cottages, all of which are roughly 20-30 metres from the river. This is a perfect option for both summer and winter – and activities include mountain biking, walking, fishing and swimming in the river.

A few km up the road, is the farm Krakadouw, owned by a lovely couple eager to share the tranquillity of their surroundings. The farm has two pristine swimming spots and accesses the Cederberg Wilderness Area with more extensive hiking trails. Permits are required, but can be easily obtained beforehand from Cape Nature.

If you are curious about rock art, at the start of the valley is the Warmhoek Rock Art Trail. The trail consists of six excellent sites and tours can be booked through the Living Landscape Craft Shop situated in the town of Clanwilliam. If guided tours impose a little too much formality onto an excursion for you, simply search for your own when out walking in the area. If you look carefully in the right kinds of places, you will not be disappointed.

Both these venues provide a great base to explore the area around Clanwilliam more thoroughly. The Clanwilliam dam and the Olifants River are easily accessible. If you want a good idea of true Cederberg beauty – rugged terrain and beautifully weathered rocks – a scenic drive over the Pakhuis Pass will definitely impress.

Photo Gallery

Click on thumbnails to view …

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Yet, despite my being an avid fan of the market, it’s more than a little pricey to eat there nowadays, and rather intimidating to try and find a spot to warm your bum on a bench whilst you scoff the latest gourment product, given the throngs that descend on Woodstock on any given Saturday morning. So, for those of you in search of something new that is not only set to be equally as good but also emphasises the local, artisan and sustainability aspect of food, head off to the Earth Fair market in Tokai.

Earth Fair is also an indoor market. It lies in the South Palms (for those of you to whom this means nothing, it’s actually in the same area as Builders Warehouse in Main Road, although behind Bathroom Bizarre). There is plenty of parking, for a start, and there are activities for kids, which for many living in Tokai is something of a godsend on a Saturday morning.

The atmosphere strikes you immediately on walking through the door. There is music pumping through the market that sets the tone, without being at all intrusive – anything but, actually. We didn’t have to move much further than the stall immediately infront of the door for the first ten minutes or so, as the quality biscuits on offer from Empire Cafe so entranced my son that we were quickly in conversation, and Dave readily informed us that he was very happy with the market and was doing extremely well out of it.

When the stall facing the public as they enter the door does such a good marketing job then your work is that much easier, and Jacqui Simpson is someone who knows a thing or two about marketing (it wasn’t too long ago that she was doing just that for a living).

Jacqui has made sure that all of her stallholders are handpicked and sell quality products. There is nothing at the Earth Fair market that isn’t worth more than a cursory glance. This isn’t a market that brings you everything and anything. This is local food at its best. No-one here is even slightly dodgy, and the aim is that here you will easily be able to stock up on the week’s food – fruit, vegetables (organic and local), free range and organic meat, local and organic cheese, bread and biscuits, sustainable fish, local and organic beer – and sit and enjoy a meal whilst you’re at it. And people love it.

Down one side of the warehouse is a seating area, table d’hôte -style, in amongst the ‘fast food’ slow-food-style section where you can enjoy any number of scrumptious meals on offer – gourmet baguettes, falafal pitas, crepes etc. We shared a particularly good (bought on recommendation from our immediate neighbours at the table) Italian-style naan bread prepared with a delectable topping that seemed to consist of tomato and braised onion with free-range beef, topped with fresh rocket, accompanied by a non-traditional, first of its kind in South Africa, honey blonde ale produced by the Birkenhead independent micro-brewery in Stanford (containing wild Stanford fynbos honey) and a carrot juice from the Ethical co-op team.

Alongside is a kids play section that is really great! Tables with blackboard tabletops (how many times has your toddler not burst to draw all over the table!?), sand art, play dough and a series of funky stools on which accompanying parents can sit.

The organic section, immediately alongside the ’sit and eat’ section, includes smoothies and juices from the Ethical co-op , fresh produce from Funky Greens, and Kids Bites – patties, fish sticks and vegetable balls made from organic produce that are definitely worth sticking in your freezer for lunches or dinners (I bought the fish sticks, which were particularly scrummy and are free of chemicals, preservatives, and made from sustainable fish and organic vegetables – what more can you want from fast food for kids?)

Rudi’s sausages are going to have the tongues wagging sooner rather than later. I am not a meat fan – I definitely don’t do sausage, normally speaking – but the sausages my husband bought were definitely in a league of their own. Rudi’s sausages, not sold by anyone called Rudi (we were entertained by Stephane Bottalico, one of a team of four who have started the business) are free of preservatives, have no MSG, no additives to create bulk, like soya, rusk or potato starch, the spices are hand mixed and only home grown herbs are used, and the meat comes from homegrown pork, lamb and free range beef, organic springbok, eland, wild boar, ostrich and wild goose – all made according to traditional Argentine, French, German, Italian and Spanish sausage recipes. And let me tell you, speaking as a non-meat enthusiast, these guys have got it right!

Next to Rudi’s was Stokkiesdraai biltong – again hormone free, preservative free kudu, ostrich and beef biltong and droë wors – well worth a taste. On the fish side of things you can buy sustainable fish from Fish 4 Africa or the Fish Deli, and people were lining up for cheese from the Constantia Cheesery and Farm Cheese.

The good news is that Earth Fair market is also open on Wednesday evenings from 2pm until 8pm – reason to stock up midweek, and get a wonderful, festive supper in at the same time. Jacqui says that it’s taking a while to warm up, but I have no doubt that Wednesdays will become quite the hit with parents in Tokai, Bergvliet and Muizenberg given time.

Find out more about the market http://www.earthfairmarket.co.za/
Every Saturday 9.00 am – 2.30 pm
Every Wednesday 2.00 pm – 8.00 pm
Telephone: Jacqui on +27 (0)84 220-3856

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Trinny & Susannah

You either have it or you don’t, style that is, but lucky enough for those of us to whom style doesn’t come easily, we can be helped. And the MasterCard Style in the City is here to help. Taking place from Thursday 29 October to Sunday 1 November in the ever popular V&A Waterfront, Cape Town, this event will showcase the crème de la crème of fashion and beauty and is hosted by top fashion guru’s Trinny and Susannah.

If you don’t yet know who these two straight talking ladies are then let me enlighten you. I have been a fan of theirs ever since I first saw their show while visiting my sister in the UK. What not to wear is a programme that takes ordinary people, yes that means you, your wife, mother, grandmother, father, husband or friend and get them to understand their body. From there they show them how to dress i.e. what suits their body shape and what they should avoid totally! I not only like them for their tips on body shape, but also because they are completely amusing characters themselves. They tell you things like it is and are no nonsense!

You may also recognise their names because they are quite obsessed with women identifying their correct body shape and have since declared that there are 12 body shapes that women can be. And they have given them appropriate names so that you can envisage the shape when you hear the name… are you a cello, vase, bell, skittle or a more traditionally known shape such as the hourglass or pear, perhaps you are a lollipop, brick or cornet. Whatever your shape is Trinny and Susannah are sure to get you to embrace it.

But we digress from the details of what the Style in the City 4 day interactive event is …

The gala dinner will be held on Thursday 29 October which is a stylish affair (would you expect any less) and is an auction dinner that will raise money for the Heart and Stroke Foundation South Africa. Go Red for Women, which is presented by MasterCard, will showcase eight popular South African designers who will each create a red dress that will be paraded on the runway by eight equally well-know South African female personalities, businesswomen and magazine editors. The designers are Abigail Betz, Gavin Rajah, Gabi Rosenwerth, Marianne Fassler, David Tlale, Stefania Morland, Jaques Lagrange and Bongiwe Walaza. What a treat! Each dress will then be auctioned off and proceeds will be given to the Heart and Stroke Foundation South Africa. If you intend to bid on one of these items please note there will be a reserve placed on each dress.

Trinny and Susannah’s Style Academy aim’s to get women to look and feel fabulous. They have a hands on style and are ready to give Cape Town some of their secrets. This is the first time they will be in South Africa and so it is an opportunity not to be missed.

There are so many other things happening over this weekend to keep you entertained and informed of the latest fashion trends. Why not enter the Pamper Parlour and have your own mini make over, walk out feeling like a million bucks. In the Health Hub you will discover all of the latest fitness tips and weight loss advice as well as beauty and nutrition advice from South Africa’s leading dieticians and nutritionists. Don’t forget to visit the Gadget and Gift Zone where you will be able to find the latest and greatest in techno gadgets that will make your everyday life that little bit easier.

There are various ticket options available. Entrance into one of Trinny and Susannah’s Style Academy will set you back R270 a person, however purchase it on your MasterCard and receive a R30 discount on this price. If you are feeling indulgent or would like to spoil someone special why not opt for the Platinum Package for R1200 per person, this will give you the ultimate VIP experience including front row seats to Trinny and Susannah’s Style Academy, complimentary MAC make-up sessions, mini manicures and pedicures, plenty of oysters and champagne as well as a goodie bag filled with fabulous beauty treats. Tickets and seats are limited so book yours today. Tickets are available at Computicket.

Trinny and Susannah’s Style Academy Show Times:
Friday 30 October 2009: 14h00, 16h00, 18h00, 20h00 and 21h00
Saturday 31 October 2009: 11h00, 14h00, 16h00, 18h00 and 20h00
Sunday 1 November 2009: 12h00, 14h00, 16h00 and 18h00

Style in the City website: http://www.styleinthecity.co.za/
Trinny and Susannah’s website: http://www.trinnyandsusannah.com/

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Celebrating its 12th anniversary in South Africa, Defending The Caveman (on at Theatre on the Bay until 17 October 2009) starring Alan Committie, continues to deliver time and time again with its hilarious revelations about (cave-)men and women. I was lucky enough to snap up one of the last remaining tickets, but never fear it’ll be returning next year to Johannesburg  at the main theatre at Montecasino from 23 June to 1 August 2010 and to Cape Town thereafter (so mark your calendars now as it always sells out fast).

If, like most modern cavemen you can’t plan that far ahead, here are a few other shows which will be gracing the stage at Theatre on the Bay in the coming months:

• It Takes 2 from 20-31 October 2009
• Love? Liefde? from 3-14 Nov 2009
• God of Carnage from 18 November to 12 December 2009
• Fully Committied (another comedy by Alan Committie) from 17 December 2009 to 23 January 2010.
• The Woman In Black from 27 January to  13 February 2010

Before or after …
Take a pre-show sunset walk along Camps Bay Beach enjoying the breathtaking scenery as an opening act. Have a pre-show drink at theatre’s Coffee Lounge or Dietrich’s Bar where actors toast a nightcap with the audience post performance. On site restaurant, Act 1 Theatre Café serves dinner from a small seasonal menu before and after the show as do numerous neighbouring venues. Applaud the star studded African skies as you exit the theatre’s canopy and indulge in a cocktail from one of the buzzing pavement cafés where you can reminisce your favourite scene of the show before the sun rises and the beach steals the show back!

Where is it?
Theatre on the Bay, 1 Link Street, Camps Bay, Cape Town.
Telephone: +27 (0)21 438-3300
Website: http://www.theatreonthebay.co.za/

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Gun Run fun

After grinding to a halt at the 67km mark of last years Comrades Marathon, I vowed that I would never, ever run again!  Sunday morning however saw my return to running as I very ambitiously hit the pavement for the Outsurance 94.5 Gun Run 5km event!  It was a spur of the moment decision (hence no pre registration for us) and after roping in two willing friends we found ourselves walking along the Sea Point promenade to the start of the event at Beach Road in Mouille Point.

The Gun Run started in 1993 and was originally only the half marathon distance of 21km.  The challenge was to complete the distance in less than two and a half hours and therefore to beat the firing of the noon day gun … the Gun Run was born!  The first runner across the line after the noon gun was given the spent shell cartridge!  

As the popularity of the event grew it became clear that starting such a busy race at 9.30am was becoming a problem.  The 10km and 5km distances were also added to give more appeal to the general public.  The half marathon now starts at 7am with the 10km and 5km events kicking off at 7.30am and 7.45am respectively.  A gun however is still a feature; and instead of the noon gun a 25 pounder 88mm Cape Artillery field gun is used to announce the start of the races – believe me, it’s loud!

The race supports an official charity with money raised going towards the charity.  The 2009 charity was The Homestead; a non profit organisation in Cape Town.

The popularity of all three events was apparent this year with the Mouille Point and Sea Point areas a hive of activity as runners from all three races made their way to the finish line on the promenade opposite the Winchester Mansions.  It was wonderful to see so many people, and even more importantly, so many children out exercising and having fun!

I managed to complete the 5km distance in 30 minutes and didn’t stop to walk once!  Our post race reward was breakfast at Miss K in Green Point!

I will definitely be back in 2010 – perhaps Ill give the half marathon a bash!

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Oude Molen Eco Village

When one thinks ‘eco village’ one imagines fields of hand planted vegetables, cob houses and hippy types endeavouring to carve a life outside of the run-of-the-mill – an alternative lifestyle sought by more and more people as they become disenchanted with modern living and all it stands for.

One certainly doesn’t expect to find a very active eco village right on the border of Valkenberg, close to the suburbs of Pinelands. But that is exactly where Oude Molen Eco village lies …

Right in the midst of the traffic of the intersection of the N2 and the M5 is an open section of grassland, just on the other side of the Black River. Friends of mine often frequent the Millstone Farm Stall and Café here, as it is a great child-friendly venue, and I had been meaning to visit for what must be a couple of years, before I finally headed out there this weekend.

Millstone Café

Oude Molen is something of an oasis. It is described as a ‘micro-enterprise village’ where roughly 70 tenants across a range of businesses, such as artists, woodworkers, music studios, metal workshops, photographers, and a training centre have come together to create, not only a life for themselves, but also employment for about 300 people. The village very much sees itself as a link between the affluent southern suburbs and the Cape Flats.

Not only that, but they’re an example of how one can make use of ‘under-utlised’ public assets. They’re renting a series of rather rundown public buildings, some of them of historic value such as the one used for the lovely little Millstone Café. The place is an odd yet beautiful mix of rather dejected looking buildings – it’s been both a military barracks and a mental asylum before now – and bold, abundant gardens overflowing with flowers, plants and grassy verges. There is much going on here, particularly on a Saturday morning.

The Horses

Right next to the Millstone Café are paddocks and stables filled with happy looking horses of all shapes and sizes, and children sitting in a circle under a tree, when we arrived, were preparing in some way for their morning ride. People were milling about, saddles were being carried from place to place, and lively dogs and children were running around. It’s obviously a safe place to be.

As we entered the village, we drove past the Gaia Waldorf School, a kindergarten and primary school to Grade 7 in the initial curve of the road. The school has been here since 1988 and is part of the original farmhouse complex, built in the late 1700s. Being part of the village means the children all have access to horse riding, organic farming, interaction with the village and its eco initiatives and the rural setting of the village – what an advantage for these children!

Millstone Café

A little further along the road that passes through Oude Molen Village, was the swimming pool, on this particular morning the site of much merriment, splashing and music as summer appeared to be the reason to celebrate. But before we reached the swimming pool, we lingered around the village’s organic vegetable gardens and bee hives. Just about every turn produces a garden. Some of the produce is apparently sold at Millstone and used to create its menu items, whilst the rest is loaded up on a cart and horse and sold around the neighbourhood.

One of the gardens is obviously a community project, with signs to tell the tale, aimed at young people who can learn to grow food, and find a space in which they belong. But we weren’t able to chat to anyone about the gardens – reason for yet another visit!

The village is unfortunately under threat from an inevitable mass housing project due for this incredibly beautiful and bountiful piece of heaven right next to the highway (despite its situation there is very little traffic noise). The threat is not immediate, as various factions are apparently busy arguing over just whose land it is, but it will be a huge pity to lose an obviously thriving project that serves the community and is a living example of how effective eco village’s can be!

Millstone Café

So, whilst it is still there, head out to the Millstone ecofriendly farm stall and café for your share of homemade timeout. Enjoy a lazy breakfast or lunchtime with freshly squeezed juices, wholesome meals and snacks that use organic produce from gardens right next to the restaurant, home-baked bread and a place for your children to play in a garden that includes a huge treehouse.

The café is on the site of Cape Town’s first windmill, beside the Black River. You can also buy organic vegetables and a range of preserves and jams at the café’s shop. It’s easy to find, simply head out to Vincent Pallotti hospital (Alexandra Road off Raapenberg Road) and the main entrance lies just beyond it, on the left.

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Cape Town Markets

It’s summer, the countdown to Christmas has already begun, and it won’t be long before everyone is bitten, or smitten, by the market bug that sees us careening off on Saturday mornings, baskets in tow, to revel in countless delicious food markets, craft markets and the like that make Cape Town such a great place to be.

Local markets turn shopping into an experience. Instead of a mall, fluorescent lighting and countless numbing shelves filled with innumerable products, the origin of which many of us will never know, we get a personal, face-to-face connection with local people who grow and make the products on display.

Talent Exchange Market

Cape Town in particular is brimming over with markets. One’s choice on a Saturday morning is overwhelming, it’s so bountiful, and food markets abound:

The Neighbourgoods market in Woodstock, the Porter Estate Produce Market, and the Earthfair Market in Tokai, the Triangle Market in Fish Hoek, and its counterpart at De Waterkant, the Rondebosch Village Market, the Stellenbosch Fresh Goods market and its other Slow Food counterpart at Willowbridge, the Timour Hall Road Organic market in Plumstead, the Franschhoek Farmers’ market, the Stellenbosch Organic Farmers’ market, and now Eden Market in Bloubergstrand, and Natural Goods Market at Century City.

But this past weekend, I took my family off to visit two off-the-beaten track community markets. Markets that might not be on the popular ‘got-to-visit’ route, but deserve a mention nonetheless.

Talent Exchange Market

Our first port of call was two markets at the Oude Molen Eco Village – a Talent Exchange market and alongside them, a Craft in the Park market. The Talent Exchange Market Day is exactly what it sounds – you buy goods for talents. Talents are a form of currency created by users of the Community Exchange System (CES), a way of breaking free of the money trap – find out more on www.ces.org.za.

We arrived fairly early, as our day was more than a little full, and already traders were setting up stalls. In particular the book stall right at the edge of the market, which happily and sedately settled in amongst the beautiful trees at Oude Molen, was a find. Whilst Henry trades in fine books, old and new, during the week from his new independent book store called Folio just next door to Jaqui Daya, the Good Food Store in Newlands (a way of combining book combing and good coffee for those after a rainy day haunt!) he also accepts Virtual Rand – another way of trading similar to Talents (if you’re interested, read more about it here http://www.community-exchange.org/exchanges/ctte/condocs.htm).

Talent Exchange Market

The Talent Exchange market doesn’t only trade in talents, although those who do put up signs saying ‘talents accepted here’. What I love about this market, and its emphasis on recycled and home-made goods, is some of the original ideas. Someone had created a ‘coffee space’ simply with a pretty Indian spread on the grass, a sign that said ‘coffee nook, talents accepted’ and an array of books in which to indulge whilst sipping.

Others were selling plants and herbs, organic vegetables, handmade clothes and any number of bootsale items, which proffered exciting rummaging moments. CES markets always make for some fine ‘people watching’ opportunities, so the coffee rug would have come in handy!

Next door, the Craft market didn’t show too much originality, although there were some stalls worth a lingering moment for stocking fillers. The location though is lovely, with wonderful views of the mountain, surrounded by the goings on of the eco village – it’s a fine way in which to spend a Saturday morning.

Menngos Market

Next stop was the Menngos Slow Food Community Market, which, Petrina’s email to us had assured, was aimed at supplying traditional foods and healthy produce sold at affordable prices, as a way to build the local community in the southern suburbs of Cape Town. It took place in the main hall of the Lansdowne Methodist Church

The stalls were a mix of organic produce, grown in the Menngos market garden, traditional foods and handmade art and craft, and the place was humming with supporters, whilst the children practised their social skills on the jumping castle just outside the hall.

There were organic plants, vegetables, olives, onion marmalade, strawberries, halaal rotis and curry, boerewors rolls, vegetarian meals, snacks, sweets, organic jams, lemon atchar, homemade breads, konfyt, and a stall selling green clay beauty products.

There is a movement of people in the southern Cape Flats who are producing high quality produce and products at very affordable prices, and the emphasis on Cape Malay foods and vegetarian fare was evident. It’s a great way to stock up for those evening curries with friends, or Christmas gifts. For more about the markets see http://menngos.org.za/

We came away laden with goodies, and gifts, and thoroughly impressed with markets that are serving the community directly.

For a selection of markets in Gauteng, KwaZulu Natal, Mpumalanga and the Western Cape please visit Markets on urbansprout brought to you by http://www.urbansprout.co.za.

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Photographs: Taken at Oude Molen Eco Village and Menngos Slow Food Community Market:

For me, the turnaround came with a team-building exercise (read: day off work) in the West Coast National Park. We were off to explore the Postberg Flower Trail, a section of the park that is open for only a couple months of the year (August to September) during the spring flowering season. It’s a small window of opportunity that has walking enthusiasts clamouring for the limited number of day or full weekend passes available – and now I know why …

After managing to get slightly lost within the first half hour of walking (entirely our own lack of navigational prowess; the path is in fact very decently marked), we puff our way up the only steepish incline of the day, stopping to survey the views with a cup of tea and a snack from our diligently prepared packs (supplies are absolutely necessary, unless you plan on eating the scenery, which is frowned upon). And what a view.

The landscape is strewn with multi-hued wild flowers nestled in the abundant fynbos that carpets most of the reserve and stretches on either horizon to meet the azure waters of the Langebaan Lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean. It’s pristine, undisturbed nature as far as the eye can see, and we’re a handful of the maximum twenty people who will be allowed to enjoy it today.

As we continue our way through silver topped grasses – doing that cool thing grass does in the wind where, from a distance, it looks like flowing water – we are watched somewhat inquisitively by a herd of assorted antelope; tiny springbok, long-limbed gemsbok and something huge kneeling in the grass that could be a kudu or a camel, it’s hard to tell. Other wildlife sightings of the day include a lethargic cobra and four wildebeest racing each other across the slopes and looking for all the world like they’re just having fun in the old nature reserve.

The flowers are already past their prime according to those in the know, but they’re breathtaking nonetheless. Though my own floral lexicon only extends to ‘orange flower’ and ‘purple flower’, I’m lucky enough to be with people who know the difference, and can point out any specimens that my city eyes have missed. Swathes of colour surround us, and even if you don’t know your steenbokbos from your Namakwa daisy, it’s hard not to be swept away by the sheer beauty of them all.

We stop for lunch and a quick siesta at one of the reserve’s postcard-perfect, windswept beaches, the crashing Atlantic reminding us of that wild quality that makes the West Coast just so majestically beautiful. The path continues along another stretch of beach, back over another fynbos-encrusted hill and along the path back to the gate, the car and home.

If you’d told me a month ago I’d be doing a five-hour (excluding stops), 14-km hike through a nature reserve and loving every minute of it, I’d have told you you had the wrong person. But I’m converted. Stiff, sore and sunburnt, I’d do it again tomorrow (or maybe just as soon as my legs have recovered).

Contact details:
Bookings opens in June, contact numbers: +27 (0)22 707-9902 or +27 (0)22 707-9903.

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Photographs taken in the West Coast National Park

The views of the Atlantic Ocean, the white sand, palm trees and Lions Head to the left (if you are facing the sea, and lets face it, who wouldn’t be!) Caprice could not ask for a better location.  Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and of course drinks, the menu is varied and great value for money. 

I met a friend out from the UK for drinks there last night and our ‘quick’ catch up over a vodka and tonic turned out to be a six hour drinks, dinner and coffee session!  Such is the great, laid back atmosphere and friendly, efficient service.

Photograph of Café Caprice by Cape Town wedding photographer, Greg Lumley

Caprice is well set out, with enough tables both inside and outside.  Heaters and blankets keep patrons warm during winter and the fresh spring evenings and you really can settle down for a long evening of socialising!

Well positioned plasma TVs allow for sports coverage in the large, open bar areas which are normally packed to capacity over weekend evenings or if there is a major sporting event on television.

So do yourself a favour, next time you are in Camps Bay, pop into Café Caprice and enjoy a sun downer or one of their sublime burgers … I guarantee you will be back time and time again.

Contact Details:
Find Café Caprice at 37 Victoria Road, Camps Bay, Cape Town
Telephone: +27 (0)21 438-8315
Website: http://www.cafecaprice.co.za/

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Jeremy Taylor

While I was growing up my sister and I always knew we were in for a special treat when my dad brought out his guitar and songbook. One of our favourite songs and which has become an anthem of sorts in our family was Ag Pleez Deddy.

For those of you who have not heard this ‘ballad of the Southern Suburbs’, here is a snippet of the song that has provided my family with many happy memories …

Ag pleez deddy won’t you take us to the drive-in
All six, seven of us, eight, nine, ten
We wanna see a flick about
Tarzan and the Ape-men
And when the show is over you can bring us back again
Chorus:
Popcorn, chewing gum, peanuts and bubble gum
Ice cream, candy floss and Eskimo Pie
Ag deddy how we miss
Nigger balls and liquorice
Pepsi Cola, ginger beer
and Canada Dry

And so starts the ballad of the Southern Suburbs, my dad used to sing it with great gusto and an accent that would make any Capetonian child proud. The verses range from pleading to go to the fun fair, watch a wrestling match and take a trip to Durban and you can only imagine this is what every parent must hear come weekend or holiday time. My sister and I would giggle uncontrollably when my dad would sing the line of the father telling the children to “voetsek” and sustain the laughter through the final verse in which the children tell their father that if he doesn’t help them in the quest for something to do they will have no other option but to go and pick fights with the children next door.

This song that holds so many happy memories was not written by my dad, as I had naively assumed while growing up, but by Jeremy Taylor in 1961, long before I was born. Taylor was born in the U.K., but spent most of his life in South Africa. He was originally an English teach in Johannesburg, but is since famed as a folk singer and song writer. Taylor was an entertainer not only through his music, but also as a stand-up comedian. His performances and artistry usually had some social commentary included and he had perfected the dramatic pause in critical points in his songs, which aided in making his songs so humorous.

Through his songs Taylor allowed audiences to laugh at themselves while delving into deeper underlying issues in society. This however did not make him popular in apartheid South Africa and many of his songs were banned by the South African Broadcasting Corporation and the government.

Now why on earth am I telling you this you might be wondering, well while at dinner last night my mom mentioned that they were very keen to go and see Jeremy Taylor who would be performing at the Baxter in the upcoming week. “Who???” was my response and I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the singer of this old favourite would be in my home town. I will most definitely be joining my parents at this show to relive happy childhood memories and I thought I needed to share this with you incase you would like to do the same.

Jeremy Taylor will be performing at the Baxter Theatre in Rondebosch. I feel this is most certainly a fitting venue as Ag Pleez Deddy is the ballad of the Southern Suburbs and Rondebosch is in the heart of the Southern Suburbs. The show previews on Tuesday 13 October 2009 and runs until Saturday 24 October 2009 with the performance beginning at 19h30.

Tickets are R85 for the preview on Tuesday 13, otherwise R110 from Tuesday to Thursday and R120 for Saturday and Sunday, Monday night offers a discounted price, however, conditions apply.

I thought I would leave you with my own ballad:
(sung in the tune of Ag Pleez Deddy – Jeremy Taylor)

Ag pleez Cape Town won’t you please book your tickets
Jem will entertain with a song or two
He’ll make you laugh and cry and smile
And roll around in the aisle
I am looking forward to a giggle or two …

Or perhaps we’ll leave the singing and song writing to Mr Taylor himself!

See Jeremy Taylors website at http://www.jeremytaylormusic.com/

Dates and Times:
Preview on Tuesday, 13 October, at 19:30
Opens on Wednesday, 14 October, at 19:30
Thereafter Monday–Saturday at 19:30

Useful Links:
Things to Do in Cape Town
Cape Town Nightlife & Theatre
Rondebosch Accommodation
Cape Town Accommodation

Bainskloof is situated in the Limietberg in the Western Cape. The campsite is conveniently located no more than an hour and a half from Cape Town and is about 15 minutes from Wellington …

From a camping perspective, Tweede Tol, managed by Cape Nature, is slightly commercial. This means that site sizes are somewhat limited and that neighbours are almost certainly guaranteed, however, it also means that the campsite is well-maintained. Booking is essential as are permits for designated trails.

When we chose to do the rock-hopper trail, we were a little unprepared for the day ahead of us and the thought of spending a morning scrambling along a river bed for 6km was slightly more romantic than it turned out to be.

We left a little late in the morning (in December) and made a seemingly wise decision to scramble upstream based on the relative ease of climbing up rocks as opposed to down them and with the perceived logic that navigation would be much easier.

Our judgement may have been slightly suspect and the trail took us about 8 and a half hours- most of which was during the hottest part of the day. It didn’t take long before constant balancing resulted in sore feet and the urge to get to the next shady spot or decent pool was an absolute necessity rather than a natural delight. Also, there came an hour past the half-way mark where distance suddenly mattered and every bend provided a cruel sense of hope that it was the last, when in fact it was at least an hour premature.

Despite the exhaustion, it was an absolutely fabulous day. The river bed was devoid of lazy frolickers (well anyone at all), the sense of escape was preserved, there were some exquisite rock pools, and the exercise was welcome.

Some advice if you are considering this trail:

• Downstream is apparently recommended for a reason
• 6km wound along a river bed is not 6km along a tar road
• Do not wear precious clothes or shoes
• Take lunch
• Leave before 10am in mid-summer
• Remember to have two cars- one for both the start and the finish- because walking up/down the tar road at the end is simply not an option
• Do not go if you hate hiking, are indifferent about nature or are anticipating a long, late night around a camp fire that night
• Do not go with someone who insists on talking the whole time

In all honesty, this is conveyed from the point of view of a timid adventurer, so my perspective is slightly corrupted by my tainted fitness, aversion to heights and inhibited courage, and is in no way a reflection of my fellow rock-hoppers, who are confident and less obsessed with a dip in every pool. In absolute fairness and in humble resignation to reality, I do believe that without my company and presence, the trail should have taken closer to six and a half hours. That said though, my comrades were equally exhausted and unamused by the 8th last bend before we eventually reached the end.

If you’re fit, healthy and a fervent nature-lover, this trail is saturated with reward.  A recommendation for the following day is to do the 9 km Bobbejaan’s River Trail to a waterfall. For the shocked and worn, however, Sunday is best spent lounging with the weekend masses in splendid rock pools in the Witte River near the campsite and picnic area.

Click on the thumbnails to view the gallery:

Contact Details for Cape Nature:
Tourism reservations and bookings:
National callers: 0861 CAPENATURE (227 362 8873)
International callers: +27 861 227 362 8873 or +27 (0)21 659 3500

Useful Links:
Western Cape Attractions
Western Cape Hiking Trails
Western Cape Camping
Things to Do in Western Cape

Books & Collectables

Unexpectant afternoons are plump with well-worn rugs and well read favourites. Typed poetry bound in volumes of verse are interspersed with handwritten notes of authors and activists felt-tipped on the walls.

Scribed accounts of freedom struggles shape black ink on white pages in the memorable bookshop of South Africa’s first antiquarian book dealer of colour, Joseph David ‘Ike’ Mayet (deceased in 2002).

Although the founder of this literary haven, “Ike’s”, has passed on, history stays current on aged spines in his literary outlet of charm. Flip your fingers through titles in search of an old edition of a beloved classic, find a version of a savoured story in Old English, discover the first edition of something you haven’t read, replace a cherished copy you lent out and never got back, hand select a romance to open fireside or trace a memory in a fairytale that was read to you as a child.

Books & Collectables

Memorabilia, artefacts, collectables and biographies; some once a forbidden read, some the first of many and some the one and only, display amongst autographs of Booker Prize winners, to be chosen for a new home and read with an open mind and heart.

Radical literature debates Marxist and Leninist whispers in recorded words in this 20 year old private library set in a building that has met previous centuries.

Dust off dust jackets of  ‘unheard of’s’ to present at bookclub, wrap a gem as a gift, discover a timeless tale in a serendipitous find, source unusual travel literature to absorb on the plane or leave empty handed but inspired; either way you’ll exit with more than you entered and you’ll wish you could have stayed a little longer …

The Details:
Address: 48A Florida Road (below Argyle Road intersection) Corner shop above ‘Vanilla House’, Durban.
Telephone: +27 (0)31 303-9214
Email: ikesbooks@iafrica.com

Hours: Monday to Friday from 10h00 to 17h00; Saturday from 09h00 to 14h00 and closed on Sundays.
Cost: Free to browse; lucky finds at inexpensive prices and priceless finds for a steal!

Useful Links:
Durban Attractions
Things to Do in Durban
Durban Accommodation