Richmond

The little town of Richmond lies in the middle of the Karoo of the Northern Cape, roughly four hours away from Bloemfontein, its slightly shaggy main street lined with period 19th century architecture, much of it restored, the upper reaches of which form a tunnel of book stores.

Richmond is a book town. The only one on the African continent. And a book town of note. If you are an avid book fan, my advice to you is that you set aside at least two days for a visit. And if you really want to indulge, time your visit with one of the annual book festivals.

From the N1 there seems nothing to the town. It appears to be little more than a rather small Caltex station that you use if you're desperate for a full tank, are happy to eat the fare at Karma, or wish to stop at Meriman Meats, the butchery that lures the odd visitor for its biltong.

But, on turning the corner into town — for it manages to remain obscured from the national road by a bend in the road — my breath catches in my throat. Richmond is beautiful. Not Franschhoek beautiful, where tourism dominates to such an extent that the original character of the town is lost in the art of catering to the visitor, or Graaff-Reinet beautiful, or even Hanover beautiful.

But the type of small town beautiful that has become elusive, now that towns are being bought up and carved up. Richmond is little – if there are 200 residents in the main part of town, it's a lot. An imposing church lies about halfway down the main drag in amongst a series of trees, said to have the highest pulpit in the country. Whilst the main road , Loop Street, is no longer sand, it may as well be. It's slow in town, and donkey carts are commonplace.

Whilst I'm strolling down the already hot Loop street to get a feel for the place, a local rides past on his bicycle, a makeshift trailer attached to the back. He's the local garden service and he nods in passing. The three or so restaurants vie for the attention of the few visitors in town at this time of year. And there is but one supermarket, it's prices reflect the derth of competition.

Down the hill and over the strange wrought iron bridge is the other part of town so commonplace in South Africa. The locals obviously still refer to it as 'the location', as on strolling back, I hook up with a rather refinely dressed black woman, her hair in braids, her heels obviously impinging on her passage, who asks me where the Chinese supermarket is.

Whilst I've barely driven around town once, I do remember the shop she's after, a block away and tell her, whilst she murmurs back that the bridge to 'the location' leads from there. I nod, with metaphorically raised eyebrows at the use of the apartheid entrenched term and we part after discussing why each of us is in town, or at least why I'm strolling through with a camera around my neck.

The book shops, it soon becomes apparent, are all interleading. The main entrance is across the road from the town's museum, dedicated to the horse, on the corner just as you come into town. There are numerous cacti in pots on the pavement. Even they look parched.

Dalene greets us at the door. She's the thoroughly laidback hippy type of country person one expects to meet in a place like this. Even if she is originally from Cape Town. Before we've reached the room of books in which I'm interested, she's promised to write out a recipe for the polish she uses for her wooden floors, and she does. It's now on my fridge door for the day I manage to mix it.

It's fortuitous that the books that interest me lie right next to the children's section. My six-year old is soon lost in the wooden shelves of mostly old children's books and remains so for the better part of an hour, whilst I get to do similar. Every now and again he comes to express his dilemma at having to choose between a book on dragons and knights.

The books are incredibly reasonably priced. The smell in the tightly shut rooms (there isn't a window open, is of slightly musty old books, but I find I like it. Whether the lack of a breeze is to protect the books or maintain the inner coolness, I'm not sure.

Our parched throats lead us down to the Supper Club where Johan and Michael are couple of consultants busy revamping the restaurant. The building is owned by Peter Baker, one of the original investors in property in Richmond, other than John Donaldson for whom we are grateful for the long line of houses (at least five of them) that are now the major book shops in town, and the website he keeps up to date all about Richmond.

Peter owns the building of the book shop next door to the Supper Club. Together with Darryl David (it gets confusing, there are no fewer than three main protagonists in the 'book town' story), Peter came up with the original idea of Richmond as a book town, based on a model of American towns doing similar. A fair amount of research later the duo launched the idea and began with the Boekbedonnerd Boeke Fees, now into it sixth year.

It's obviously worked for Richmond, which has simply continued producing festival after festival. The success of the original book festival was followed close on the heels by the JM Coetzee Literary Festival, a more academic, but no less well received, annual book festival, that is now enjoying its fourth year. It’s a little more heavy going than the more widely attended Boekbedonnerd festival, and doesn’t necessarily appeal to as wide a public.

Which is why yet another festival emerged. There was a feeling in town, particularly among the artists, that things other than books deserved a platform. Known as the Groot Karoo Kunstefees, this festival is a mix of crafts and a selection of art that includes Gospel music, fine art, photography, talks, related films, stalls, music and song, including alternative Afrikaans music and a choir Festival. And more books.

We spend the afternoon exploring the old stable buildings behind the museum. These also belong to John Donaldson’s series of bookshops — the vinyl room and the children’s books room alone are worth half a day each. I bagged The Little Prince double record with Peter Ustinov narrating for R20.

Knowing we could have done with another couple of days before doing the books justice, and with plans to return come the festival — ah, but which one? — we left the following morning.

But you’ll be happy to know that you need little excuse to give Richmond the once over.

When to visit in 2012:

25/26 May: JM Coetzee Literary Festival
31 May to 2 June: 110th Year Anniversary of Anglo Boer War (there are a huge number of Anglo Boer War sites in the area )
20 to 23 September: Groot Karoo Kunstefees
25 to 27 October: Boekbedonnerd Boeke Fees

To see and do:

• Visit the book shops
• Eat at one of four restaurants — Supper Club, Blue Lantern, Vetmuis Plaas (all on Loop Street), and the Kama, up at the Caltex garage just off the N1
• Visit the NG church on Loop Street to see the highest pulpit in the country
• Visit the museum that has a rare collection of equine artifacts
• Stroll down Loop Street and chat to the locals
• Visit MAP — a beautifully restored Edwardian homestead that is now the Modern Art Projects that includes exhibition space that usually hosts a number of painters, sculptors and designers (worth a visit)
• Climb Vegkop on the summit of which is an Anglo-Boer War fort
• Visit the Nama Karoo Foundation nursery on a farm outside of Richmond – the Karoo's first indigenous tree nursery
• Do the Richmond Ramble — pamphlet at Richmond’s info on 32 Loop Street, chat to either Louisa or Marthie, or phone them on +27 (0)53 693‑0197

Useful Links:

Richmond Attractions
Things to Do in Upper Karoo
Upper Karoo Accommodation
Northern Cape Accommodation
Northern Cape Guest Farms
South Africa Accommodation

The Town of Knysna

When was the last time you were in Knysna? This ever popular Garden Route town has plenty to offer. The middle of the year is when thousands of people descend on this town for the Knsyna Oyster Festival and those who've been training take part in either the Knysna Forest Marathon and Knysna Cycle Tour.

But when the buzz of the Oyster Festival calms down and the tourists leave this town doesn't go to sleep ... it does the opposite of that. Reason being because there is so much to do in and around the town of Knysna. There are plenty of festivals that happen each year, the Pink Loerie Mardi Gras is another favourite.

Not only is the town filled with festivals but your will find a host of Things to Do in Knysna. I've taken a slice out of all the exciting places to visit and things to see and have round up 10 great things to do when you're next in town ...

Beer Tasting & Tour at Mitchells Brewery

Mitchells Brewery Tasting

An absolute must visit is the Mitchells Brewery, here you can discover all there is to know about brewing fine natural ales. The tour guide will enlighten and excite you with terms such as Mash Tun, Whirlpool and Grist Hopper. After your tour you'll be taken to the sales area for a tasting and a chance to purchase some of the ale to take home. If you're a group of 6 or more persons you are able to arrange an alternative tour time to the scheduled tours.

Address: Arend Street, Knysna Industria, Knysna, Garden Route
Telephone: +27 (0)44 382‑4685
Opening hours: Monday to Friday from 08h00 to 17h00. Please contact us for Tour & Tasting Times.

Canoeing on the Knysna Lagoon

Canoe the Lagoon

If you're feeling a little bit energetic and would like to get out on the water why not hire yourself a Canadian-syle canoe for either one or two persons from Lightleys River Runners (who are known as The Boat People). The canoes are very easy to use and would be the perfect opportunity to take that special someone on a little romantic outing ... don't forget it is Valentines Day next week. Or if romance is not what you're after and you're looking for birds of the feathered variety this would also serve you well. If you like, you can arrange for a delicious picnic as well which includes succulent oysters and a bottle of bubbly

Address: Lightleys River Runners, Phantom Pass Road, Knysna, Garden Route
Telephone: +27 (0)44 386‑0007
Opening hours: By arrangement

Oyster Farm Tour

Oyster Farm Tour

Knysna is very well known for its oysters. This is something that not everyone is a fan of, but if you are one who loves these slippery shellfish then I would highly reccommend an Oyster Farm Tour. On the tour you will learn all there is to know about The Knysna Osyter as it grows wild on this stretch of coastline. The tour drifts off towards the Knysna Heads and your guide will not only find out a bit of the history of the Knysna Head but also all you need to know about the oyster beds. The tour includes drinks, lights snacks and three oysters per person (you'll taste both wild and farmed oysters). If three is not enough don't fret there will be oysters on sale.

Address: Tours depart from Thesen Island Harbour, Knysna
Telephone: +27 (0)82 892‑0469
Opening hours: Tours depart at 11h00, 13h00 and 15h00 daily and last 90 minutes

A Pastry from île de pain

île de pain

Come to île de pain Bakery and Café where bread is not just bread, it is a religion. Every morning the crew get up before the crack of dawn to create the most scrumptious bread you have ever tasted. Thus ensuring île de pain is one of the most popular eateries in Knysna. You'll find the first artisan, wood-fired bakery in South Africa at the Thesen Island in the Knysna Waterfront. The eatery offers a delectable selection of pastries which include baked pear tartlets, or choose something from the simple breakfast menu. Be warned though you might enjoy yourself so much you'll want to stay on for lunch deciding between healthy gourmet salads, delicious tarts or their signature beef burger. Whatever you do make sure you come hungry!

Address: Thesen's Island Street, Knysna Waterfront, Knysna, Garden Route
Telephone: +27 (0)44 302‑5707
Opening hours: Please enquire

Harkerville Saturday Market

Harkerville Saturday Market

You'll find this market situated on the N2 between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay. Why make the effort you might ask, perhaps because it has been going for 10 years and is not just a flea market, nor a craft market, it isn't even just a farmers market ... it is a combination of all three. You can be looking for any number of things from books to organic vegetables, sumptuous home-baked goodies to locally produced cheeses. Relax under one of the trees and enjoy breakfast with friends and family — the perfect opportunity for a catch up.

Address: On the N2, between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, Garden Route
Telephone: + 27 (0)44 533‑9094
Opening hours: Saturday mornings from 08h00 to 12h00

Dine aboard the Paddle Cruiser

Knysna Paddle Cruiser

Take a trip on the only paddle-driven vessel in South Africa and enjoy a completely unique Knysna Lagoon experience. Decide between a lunch time (12h30 departure) or evening (18h15 departure) cruise. The evening cruise will allow you to relax into the evening while sipping a cocktail and watching the sunset. Feast on a large a la carte selection which features a Tapas Mediterranean menu for lunch and a 3-course Mediterranean buffet for dinner — and of course when in Knysna savour a succulent oyster.

Address: Remembrance Lane, off Waterfront Drive, Knysna, Garden Route
Telephone: +27 (0)44 382‑1693
Opening hours: Lunch cruise at 12h30 and evening cruise at 18h15

The Red Barn Restaurant & Country Store

Red Barn Restaurant

Nestled amongst Macadamia nut orchards this recently renovated, 20 year old Cape Cod style barn is a wonderful place to you to purchase fresh produce, browse through local art and dine of wonderful creations from the talented chef at the Red Barn Restaurant. The menu is inspired by seasonal produce and you can expect to find artisan meats, cheeses and a range of other produce that is produced either locally or on site. Come and spend a lazy lunch with your friends and enjoy a glass of wine from their extensive wine list.

Address: Fern Gully Farm, Rheenendal, Road, Knysna, Garden Route
Telephone: +27 (0)82 739‑0962
Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday and Public holidays from 09h00 to 16h00 and Friday night the kitchen closes at 22h00

The Dry Dock Food Co

Dry Dock Food Co

A wonderful venue for a large group of friends or an intimate dinner for two. With three separate floors you might think you don't need to book but due to their popularity it's adviseable to give them a call. The location couldn't be more ideal as it is situated at the Knysna Waterfront and you'll leave wanting to come back soon because the food is delectable. Lunch is served daily from 12h00 to 18h00 — I would suggest something from the many seafood options, you'll be begging for more. If you are a fan of prawns they have some many options of how it is prepared you are rather spoilt for choice.

Address: Shop 1, The Waterfront Knysna Quays, Knysna, Garden Route
Telephone: +27(0)44 382‑7310
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday from 12h00 to 22h00

Day Sailing Charter with Springtide

Charter with Springtide

Take up position at the help of the 50 foot yacht, Outeniqua, thanks to Spring Tide Sailing Charters. This will be a sailing experience like no other — sail through one of the most notoriously difficult sea passages in the world — the Knysna Heads. The crew will let you enjoy a lagoon cruise and then carefully take you through the Knysna Heads and sail on towards Buffalo Bay. When you return you can anchor down and enjoy a few delicious treats and even a swim to cool down. The Outeniqua was hand built by owner and skipper, Stephan Pepler and has been a luxury sailing yacht since 1998.

Address: The Outeniqua Yacht is situated in front of Building 34 South
Telephone: +27 (0)82 470‑6022 or +27 (0)82 829‑2740
Opening hours: By arrangement

The Anchorage

The Anchorage

The Anchorage has a strong history of more than 20 years so you can be rest assured that this is a local favourite. The restaurant offers an unpretentious evening with traditional seafood dishes and perfect steaks. The Anchor Platter includes mussels, prawns, calamari and linefish alternatively if you're looking for the best in both worlds you can opt for the steak and prawn combo. For pudding treat yourself to a South African favourite, Malva Pudding or a splendid Amarula crème Brule.

Address: 11 Grey Street, Knysna, 6570, Garden Route
Telephone: +27 (0)44 382‑2230
Opening hours: Please enquire

No matter what you're after you will find it in Knysna! Share your best experiences with us in the comments section below.

Have you vis­ited Knysna? Why not tell us what you thought by sub­mit­ting a review. See: Knysna Reviews

Useful Links:
Knysna Attractions
Knysna Accommodation
Things to Do in Knysna
Knysna Events
Garden Route Hotels
Garden Route Accommodation

Lunch in De Rust

We don't mean to stop in De Rust. We're on the N12 that heads off the N1 close to the Karoo National Park en route to Ladismith, our intended destination, and have just come through the incredible Meiringspoort, when De Rust appears out of nowhere.

The main road through town is littered with colourful restaurants, coffee shops and the odd boutique. The place is hot and humming. And a big board informs us that De Rust has won 'dorp van die jaar' and claims to be the best town in the Karoo.

Besides, we're hot and hungry. And with all the jolly jostling for attention that each of the establishments makes in a bid to get you to stop at their restaurant (they're rather colourful), the town deserves exploration.

The towns we've passed through, the heat of the Karoo and the incredible towering sandstone cliffs of Meiringspoort have all reminded me of author Ettienne van Heerden's The Long Silence of Mario Salviati (if there's one book that to me epitomises the Karoo, then it's this one, although the original, is of course, Die Swye van Mario Salviati).

Meiringspoort is De Rust's major drawcard. One is compelled to stop in town after passing through the kloof from the north, just to catch your breath. The sheer magnitude of the cliffs brings home sharply the arduous taks faced by farmers from the north to get their ox wagons through here, in an attempt to trade with Mossel Bay, George and Oudtshoorn.

Even today, if the road that was built finally only between 1920 and 1923 floods, which it is prone to do, trucks have to travel via Graaff-Reinet and Uniondale along the R62, or along the N1 to Laingsburg, branching off to Riversdale or Oudtshoorn, to arrive finally in George – both tedious and rigorous detours.

De Rust markets itself as a gateway to both the Great and Little Karoos. Its location is enviable, snuggled in amongst the Swartberg and Kammanassie Mountains. It's one of the few towns that isn't flat. Its tree-lined streets slope up and away from the entrance to Meiringspoort, and there is evidence that more than a few of the little Karoo houses have been spruced up and made pretty.

Around De Rust there are green valleys, incredibly rock formations, streams, an enviable bird life and walking and cycling trails to keep you busy for more than a couple of days. It's perfect as a place to lunch, but the town is also out to prove that it will hold your attention for a little while longer.

We finally settle on lunch at the Village Trading Post. From the road its exterior invites you to explore, while over the doorway there is the word 'courtyard' surrounded by swirling green curlicues, which suggest a cool veranda off the back somewhere. The mood is further endorsed by a couple of Harleys outside, and a dilapidated windmill on which is pegged the sign: 'windmaker kuns'.

We're not disappointed. Inside is an eclectic mix of things. Antique clothes, light shades donned with scarves and roses, furniture, a plethora of hearts, handbags, clocks and a selection of hats over the doorway catch your eye as you pass through the old house and out of a doorway into the courtyard, where there is also an art gallery.

Photographs — Left: De Rust Main Street / Right: Village Trading Post

We manage to find a perfect little nook up above the courtyard, next to the gallery, in amongst the leaves of a fig tree and a giant umbrella, its branches draped with glass bottles filled with pink liquid and wind chimes, the walls gently embroidered with painted climbing roses and the words of Ingrid Jonker — “...weerlose roos van die môre . wond van die rose...”

Afrikaans Karoo nostalgia as only the Karoo towns can do...

There isn't a hint of a breeze and we're grateful for the glass jug of iced water the waitress brings us. It's thoughtful. She could have simply slapped down three glasses filled with tepid tap water, as many restaurants do when you don't order a drink but request the freebie instead. Besides, I've spotted the water filter system similar to ours attached to the pump that brings water to the house.

Our food, when it comes, is also pleasantly refreshing, and not without artistry. The menu includes all day breakfasts, omelettes, salads, open sandwiches on home baked bread or ciabatta, toasted sandwiches, and 'magic meals' that include spaghetti 'bolle' naise served with tomato relish, and the village Trading Post's burger (their speciality).

There is also a good selection of local wines from Van Loveren, Hermanuspietersfontein, Bergwater and Rooiberg cellars. Part way through our meal, the Harleys are heard starting up and vrooming off.

At the gallery I become entranced by a painting. It isn't often I'm hooked. I'm not an art connoisseur, neither am I offay with South African art, but this beautiful modern and bright work with a swirling, almost green river that runs up towards a vivid farmhouse has me walking in muttering circles, wondering if I dare part with R4500 of my savings.

The heat and the added pressure of having to continue our journey abate my dilemma, but I still think about it. Often. I even have the gallery's card, delivered into my hands together with a little feather, lost somewhere in the bottom of my handbag. I think.

Photographs — Left: The courtyard / Right: Inside the Village Trading Post

Things to do when in De Rust:

• Herrie se Klip is a national monument found in Meiringspoort and is the famous spot where the writer CJ Langenhoven (he wrote the country's first national anthem) was want to sit and relax. Some say he even wrote here.
• Hikes and walks – there are numerous in the area. Contact Pieter Schoeman on +27 (0)82 377‑0547 or Barry Meijer on +27 (0)82 495‑5196
• Mons Ruber Winery – the local winery offers wine tasting
• Stompdrift dam – biggest dam in the Klein Karoo where you can fish and sail
• The old Slave dams – built in 1834
• The Swartberg Circular Route – from De Rust via Oudemuragie to the Cango Caves, then from the caves via the Swartberg pass to Prince Albert, then on via Meiringspoort and the waterfall to De Rust (find a map at De Rust's tourism office where they are very helpful)
• Karoo National Park – but an hour away, via Meiringspoort and Klaarstroom
• The Red Hills – found on the farm Rietvalley, roughly 10 kilometres outside of De Rust, these red collured hollow caves of Enon-conglomerate, or pudding stone, are millions of years old and a national nature heritage site
• Local artists – De Rust has attracted numerous sculptures, painters, landscape artists and writers
• Scenic drive – drive the section of Route 62 between De Rust and Ladismith as it is particularly scenic. En route stop off at Ronnie's sex shop, the hot springs just outside the town of Barrydale, and the town itself

Useful Links:

De Rust Accommodation
De Rust Guest Houses
Karoo Attractions
Things to Do in Karoo
Karoo Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation
Western Cape Hotels

Obesa Cacti Nursery

You either get it, or you don't. With the Obesa Cactus Nursery. Although describing it as a 'nursery' hardly does the experience justice. For a visit here, if you allow it, is far more of an experience than it is a simple trip to the nursery to pick up a cactus or two for your window sill.

First of all the 'nursery' takes up the better part of a block. For those of you who want to find it, hunt down the street dominated by a myriad psychedelically painted houses. They're a series of guest houses that go by the same name as the nursery (run by Johan's ex-wife, who remains a fan despite that). The nursery is directly across the road, and all over the pavement, and, if you look around you, on just about every available piece of ground.

That this is the work of a man with a passion is obvious. Having lived with a gardening nut who has transformed the better part of our city garden into a wild vegetable mandala, I think I can handle it.

I enter the gardens on one of those ridiculously hot days (and it isn't even February) reserved typically for little towns in the Karoo. Not a breath of wind stirs, sweat slithers down my face as I hide under a large hat, my arms protected from the sun by a linen blouse that feels rather as though I've encased myself in a furnace.

All thought of my discomfort vanishes, however, as we enter the nursery. So as not to totally overwhelm a mini 'nursery' is what greets one first, set under shadecloth. Johan, his grey hair drawn back in a ponytail under a sorry excuse for a hat, his wild woolly grey beard slightly yellowed from years of smoking, shakes my hand and welcomes me, his distinctly blue eyes an indication of his obvious intelligence and knowledge of plants.

At first he's slightly reticent, in a warm kind of way, sending me on a walk through the cacti, brushing off any questions. He point blank refuses a photograph. The only one of him, he says, is the one in his ID book. I think I'm going to like this man.

I've already done an internet trawl on the nursery and know there isn't much there. On his own website Johan speaks about himself simply as CJ Bouwer and says very little about himself and his passion, bar the fact that he knows cacti (the pictures alone are worth looking at). Nothing quite prepares you for the real thing.

Photographs — Left: What colour / Right: Spiky bundles

For the cacti gardens at Obesa are art. It's like outsider art. Along the lines of the Owl House, but in plants. Not only that, it also extends for miles (okay, slight exaggeration on my part, but we're not talking a mere nursery here). There are at least ten hectares' worth of cacti, and nothing to distract one except the intense blue of the Karoo sky.

As I begin to gently walk through the cacti, careful not to catch my flimsy skirt on any of the needle like projections that masquerade as thorns, I am joined by an avid cacti collector who deems himself something of a connoisseur. In typical Gauteng fashion he manages to give me a running commentary about his pursuit of cacti and former visit to the garden, photograph the plants he hasn't yet managed to capture, and chat on his cell phone.

I'm just wondering whether or not he's actually enjoying any of this, when his wife calls and obviously declines to join him. He's off and I get to enjoy the space in quiet. It deserves to be taken slowly and appreciated. As I said originally: you either get it, or you don't. And I imagine quite a few people don't.

Johan has spent the better part of forty years planting cacti. The place is a labyrinth – small pathways interspersed with huge, towering cacti, then around the next corner an entire garden's worth of little, fat, spiky cacti, euphorbs and caudiciforms. And so it continues. The place is ablaze with aloes, rare and endangered and Madagascan succulents and more.

Johan initially began by collecting haworthias and seeds, followed soon by a series of lithops, and then every and any seed he could lay his hands on. That he has green fingers is obvious, as the place is literally crawling with plants.

Everything is in flower too, something we're incredibly lucky to witness. The flowers come 10 days after rain, and last but 5 days. I later learn that some cacti only open their flowers in the exception, whilst others can only fully open for two hours at night. But the flowers here have either just flowered or have been open for a day or two, so I get the full benefit.

Photographs — Left: Little boxes on the hillside / Right: Cactus flowers in bloom

I walk for ages, drinking in the different arrangements of these sometimes huge, sometimes little plants that can take the punishing heat of the Karoo, and hook up with my son and husband, who have been the entire way around the cacti at least twice. My six-year old is already chatting nine to the dozen about the cacti he wants for his garden bed at home. Am I destined to have two plant fanatics to deal with?

Hard to believe but Johan is a lawyer by trade. You would never say that the hippy I see infront of me, moonlights in the courts (or is it the other way around?). Whilst cacti are his life's passion, he's needed to earn to put his three children through school and university. And the beauty of the garden helps take his mind off some of the less savoury aspects of his work in the criminal world.

Over-and-above my respect for the incredible cacti jungle he's single-handedly produced, I'm amazed that he manages to juggle the two professions that seem so diametrically opposed. Most artists need to indulge or totally immerse themselves in their work to achieve anything. And yet here we stand in amongst a lifetime's part-time work.

Johan smiles and nods. The garden has only been open to the public for six years. “People visiting from other countries complained” he quips, “it was time to share it”.

I for one, am glad he does. By now my son is awkwardly staggering towards us, his arms laden with little succulents he's selected. I'm busy swatting off the mosquitos that have decided they may as well dine in style. Johan declines to accept money for the plants. “I don't charge children for anything,” he says.

We part at the gateway to the garden and nursery, having made a friend.

The name 'Obesa' is derived from the euphorbia obesa plant that is indigenous to the Kendrew area, which lies in the Graaff-Reinet district. It is protected by the World Succulent Society, and it's common name used to be 'kafferhutjie' because of its similarity to to an African hut.

Photographs — Left: Scale the heights / Right: Succulents a growing

Directions to Obesa:

Iin Graaff Reinet, drive south down Church Street, turn left into Bresler Street, where the massive white signboard says: 'Obesa Wholesale Nursery'.

Useful Links:

• Graaff-Reinet Attractions
• Graaff Reinet Map
• Graaff Reinet Accommodation
• Graaff Reinet Hotels
• Eastern Cape Accommodation

The Red Windmill

Eat, play, live at the nursery | garden shop | restaurant | play area | vintage shop ...

Just outside the town of Napier, en route to Bredasdorp, sits a beautiful old Cape Dutch farm house, just off the road, with a bright red roof and white gables and walls. To the side of it stands a red windmill, admittedly minus its blades, but that's a story for later.

The Red Windmill isn't the farmstall it first appears to be. Instead its something of a collection or collaboration of four independent shops under the umbrella of Red Windmill. I bump into Dee Robinson. She's drinking coffee on the stoep with Erica (of Dave's Country Kitchen) and Lesley (of Cool Beans sweets shop). Everyone's laughing and generally having a rather festive time. If this is what collaboration looks like, count me in.

It's late in the afternoon on a Sunday and the lunch rush is over. Dee explains how she just had to have the house when it came up for hire last year. “I've had my eye on this building since we arrived in Napier from Cape Town,” she smiles. “I didn't know what we were going to do with it, but I knew something would emerge.”

And emerge it has. Dee and husband Neal run a nursery and landscaping business that they brought with them from Cape Town from the side of the beautiful old house, since April 2010. Dee also runs a trendy antique clothing boutique filled with items from the 40s through to the 80s in one wing of the house, called Vintage, which she says attracts the young girls. You can pick up some gorgeous creations at really good prices.

“Our collaboration is really a wonderful idea,” elaborates Dee. “The minute Dave and Erica were available, we convinced them to come in with us at the Red Windmill, and it's great, as all of us bounce ideas off one another, and no one individual feels the stress of having to get it all right, there's a team spirit going on here.”

She is right. Friends and patrons alike are now seated outside under red umbrellas in amongst the scatter cushions on which Dee's two little jack russels are spreadeagled out in the sun. There is a relaxed atmosphere to the place that extends indoors where another group have settled in for afternoon tea.

Dave Spilhaus, of Dave's Country Kitchen has brought an added dimension to the affair, for what is a farmstall without food to sit and eat. A selection of breakfasts, tea time treats and lunch fare, including one of the only country menus I know offerring a bunny chow (home made bun filled with lamb curry), all served in a totally unpretentious environment, makes a stop here far more than a stroll through an indigenous nursery.

I follow Dee outside. She has countless ideas for the place and I sense that there is a large element of play to the way the team approach their days here at Red Windmill. Dee walks me through her, admittedly little, indigenouse and succulent nursery. “We do quite a bit of landscaping of gardens in the village,” she explains. I've already caught a glimpse of the feature Tuis&Home did about them, on the walls of the nursery.

We stroll (because in the country you don't walk anywhere briskly) past a water feature her husband Neal has just whipped together to beyond the nursery to a small forest of blue gum trees. “The farm is a working sweet potato and red onion farm,” she explains, “so it's a real working farm.” I agree that this gives it a sense of added vibrancy as we look out yonder to surrounding fields of wheat.

“Just here,” Dee indicates a clearing they've just made in a natural circle evident in amongst the trees, “is where we're going to lay the labyrinth.” Dee explains how every time she ventured out in amongst the trees it seemed to her that natural circles became evident, and that they were calling out for some sort of creation. “I woke one night and just realised that we had to put a labyrinth in here for people to walk. With these views out over the farm lands, it will just lovely.”

I agree, thinking back to the other labyrinths I've walked already – Boondocks just outside Nelspruit, The Edge in Hogsback, Bodhi Khaya just outside Gansbaai, all of them based on the Chatres Cathedral as Dee intends doing, and I wonder if each of their creators has been called to place them around the country; if they are to play a very necessary role in reconnecting us with our selves in an age where almost every other activity diverts us from the connection.

Whilst I imagine, Dee is already pointing to the out buildings where she wants to add a wine tasting element, and probably another shop as well as a couple of donkeys for children. Speaking of children. I nip round the front to see how the other parts of my family are doing, to find my son at play in amongst the jungle gyms and see saw with Jessica, Dave and Erica's two-year old. For the first time in memory, my son is displaying a gentleness I've not seen when interacting with other children, and I'm relieved to see it.

Back inside the house I explore Cool Beans. It's a lot as I imagine an old-fashioned sweet shop must have looked – glass jars filled with brightly coloured balls and other shapes and size sweets. I can imagine the average child easily gets lost in here, emerging with a brimming brown paper bag.

Inside the main building the nursery has also added a 'kitchen table', which is what gives the place its 'farmstall' element, filled with local jams, pickles, olive oils, free range eggs (if and when Dee's Koek Koek hens feel up to the occasion) etc. And one can hire the whole Red Windmill space for an event, where the space and wonderful food, the atmosphere of candle lit nights would make this positively unique.

And the headless windmill? Well, it took Dave and Neal long enough just to move the base to where it is. The blades will just have to wait until a certain truck is available. And this is the country. It could take a while...

Where to find them:

Addresss:  Sanddrif Farm, 3km from Napier en route Bredasdorp, Napier, South Africa
Telephone: +27 (0)28 423‑3576

Useful Links:

Napier Attractions
Things to Do in Napier
Napier Accommodation
Napier Bed and Breakfast Accommodation
Cape Agulhas Accommodation
Western Cape Hotels
Western Cape Accommodation

City Bowl Market

Is it just me, or has the Neighbourgoods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill in Cape Town become ridiculously busy, over priced and just plain unpleasant if you happen to arrive at any time past 9am, and who doesn't?

I'm the last one to knock the Neighbourgoods. They're a first-rate market — they've outlasted the very best, they've set the benchmark as far as excellent food markets go, and could rival any similar European market. But enough already. It's really time for another market in the city bowl...

Enter stage left – the City Bowl Market — situated on the rather obscure Hope Street in Gardens, which, not being a city bowl dweller myself, I managed to capably miss for twenty minutes before finally finding it (but I did get to drive around Gardens, which was lovely).

I must admit to being a little sceptical on setting out for the market. Cape Town has a lot of weekend food markets. Some of them have come and gone with alarming speed, whilst the stalwarts – like the Earthfair Market, the Porter Estate Market and the Neighbourgoods Market — have gone the distance. How can one more market carve a niche for itself?

That said, I arrive to find it housed in an absolutely gorgeous period building with a fantastic atmosphere – it's really unpretentious and relaxed, and people spill out of here as early as 10am with their baskets already filled with vegetables and fruit. Best of all, there is easy parking.

“We really welcome everyone,” says Madelen Johannson, the market's organiser who hails from Sweden, pointing out an enormous greyhound lurking around the vegetables with a smile. “Big or small, dog or cat, children and friends, this is not a niche market aimed at only a select segment of society.”

Madelen must be doing something right. For a market that's only been running for six months the place is heaving by lunch time, but not enough to make you want to grab your bag and make a run for it. There is a pleasant, laid-back feel to the way people shop here, and the space has an almost serene atmosphere about it.

I'm not surprised to learn that the building, which was built in 1926 and now belongs to Madelen's partner – Pug Roux – has served as a Jewish Synagogue and has been used as a meeting place for Jehovah's Witnesses, Hindus and most recently, by a Christian church who hire the hall from Pug during the week and on Sundays. Their combined efforts have created a building with a serene presence that definitely adds something to the market.

Trendy but unobtrusive music plays in the background, whilst the hall and the building have been cleverly used to make the most of the facilities. In the hall itself, the 20 to 25 stallholders' tables are laid out around a central eating area, where you can collapse on a series of hessian straw cushions at trestle tables, which are using doors as table tops, with your plate of food.

Upstairs in the gallery, originally used for the women of the Jewish Synagogue, they're serving Darling brew and wine, whilst there is another chill out area to the side of the hall with further shady nooks and crannies in which to sit and sip. I like the inner-city feel to the place.

Outside along the back of the hall, Madelen has put in a rather unobtrusive flat-screen television so that rugby and sports' fans don't have to miss out, and there's a collection of people and their dogs taking in the World Cup along the wall outside a little fashion stall that doesn't appear to be doing any business.

Out another door on the opposite side of the hall is a little garden with a children's jungle gym, and upstairs there's a further banquet hall, chandeliers hung from the ceiling, that hosts the once-a-month Fashion Market (held at the same time as the food market), which adds further sparkle and allure to the weekly event (reminder to self to attend the next one).

The food market's intention is for visitors to go home with all their weekly food needs satisfied. With local food markets like these, you'll only need the likes of Pick n Pay once a month, if you plan it right.

The vegetable and fruit stall ight at the front of the hall claims to handpick from farmers growing as organically and naturally as possible, but not necessarily certified. By the time I select my carton of strawberries and sweet potatoes there is a queue to pay for goods. I'm intrigued to see how they'll solve my dilemma: I've left my shopping bag in the car, but the stallholder smiles and offers me a cardboard box.

Just behind the vegetable and fruit stall there is an area for children where today they're doing sand art, in similar style to the Earthfair market in Tokai, whilst to my right is Cherene organics where we pick up a strawberry plant for my son's little vege patch at home.

Simply Wholesome sell free range chickens and other meat, Mich's Pantry is an ingenious glass jar mix for crunchies, choc chip cookies and brownies to which you need only add eggs, butter and milk and voila, you've a batch to take to the oven. She also sells the mix in glass jars, making them easily recyclable.

I pick up a few fish cakes that serve as lunch a little later, that come without egg or flour, from Havah Catering just below the coffee stall that has found its spot on stage, where Bean There coffee is poured liberally for a growing number of visitors intent on their morning fix. Some of them sit in groups on cushions on the stage.

A little further along on I come across Saszali's homemade chocolates, which, although a little pricey, seem worth every penny particularly as they come boxed and beautifully wrapped – ideal for Christmas gifts, if anyone needs any prompting. Saszali has also a range of specially designed cards, to match the individual flavour of the chocolates.

Calvin from Sashimi Tuna Steaks is a find, not only because his tuna steaks sell at really reasonable prices but because he's also really good at typography and while I chat to Madelen, he draws my son's name in larger-than-life letters.

There are breads, cheeses, take-away food, jams, Dr Juice who make a mean smoothie, Tai noodles, and a myriad other mouth-watering breakfast and lunch temptations, including a wonderful icecream stall where you can get a cone or tub for just R10.

As Madelen says, what the Neighbourgoods Market has done for Woodstock, this market could do for Gardens. As we leave, we drive down a narrow little avenue known as Glynville Terrace, filled with Victorian style terrace homes. Admittedly the neighbourhood needs a little work, but the prices of property here already reflect the general trend, and fashionable design studios and little restaurants are already making their presence felt.

It's not long now before Hope Street becomes a pivotal part of the scene in Cape Town, a place at which to meet up with friends, a trendy spot at which to hang out.

Where You Will Find It:

Address: 14 Hope Street, Gardens, Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Telephone: +27 (0)73 270‑8043
Opening hours: Every Saturday between 9am and 2pm

Useful Links:

Gardens Attractions
Things to Do in Gardens
Gardens Accommodation
Gardens Guest Houses
Cape Town Guest Houses
Western Cape Accommodation
Western Cape Hotels

CocoáFair

There is a little more to CocoáFair than simply chocolate. For many of us just the promise of locally made, artisan, organic chocolate is enough of an invitation to have us reaching for a taste...and believe me, having sampled, it is a mouth-watering experience.

But Thor soon explains, as I query the name, that yes, CocoáFair is definitely about the fairness involved in the way the cocoa is traded, but the emphasis is also very much on the 'affair' with cocoa – not only the love of it, but the relationship of cocoa with the people who grow it, and the people who turn it into chocolate.

And an affair there most definitely is. On display on shelves to my right and left are bars of organic chocolate, pralines, truffles, a barrel filled with incredibly reasonably priced raw cacoa, organic sugar, and slivers of chocolate — bagged, and tied up with a ribbon.

I do not realise on entering the factory of CocoáFair, tucked into the corner at the Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, that I'm about to learn more about social entrepreneurship than I am about chocolate.

Thor, the Dane who has imagineered the CocoáFair brand into being, greets me at the entrance to the below street level factory with a firm handshake. Nearby is Marlon, who first introduced me to the chocolate at the local Obz market, Zuki, whose ever present shadow in the kitchen behind me is the proof that chocolate is slowly being produced, and Thor's Italian 'business' partner, Antonino (Tino to his friends).

Social entrepreneurship, Thor explains, has recently gained new meaning and is emerging at a rapid rate out of Europe and other countries where business now focuses on people, profit and planet.

I've heard the term 'people, profit, planet' bandied about quite a bit by some businesses who are not all that ethical about how they treat their people, but as Thor continues to explain, I begin to see the picture.

At CocoáFair the term translates into low price but high quality; an emphasis on the environment with systems already in place like using as little packaging as possible, and saving enormous amounts of water in a self-made mechanism (involving an old chest freezer, a black dustbin and several metres of copper piping) that recycles and cools the water necessary for making chocolate.

It is also about being organic, and more importantly about looking for social innovation, and giving value to people, so that the business improves the lives of many. Profit is important, obviously, so that reinvestment can occur, but the principle focus is on people.

Thor goes on to describe how the team are helping rebuild the cocoa industry in Uganda, which did not recover after the crops were destroyed under Idi Amin. “We aim to have the CocoáFair brand completely African. At the moment we're importing beans from Ghana, Peru, Equador and the Dominion Republic, but with the project in Uganda, things will change.”

“This is not a 'hand-out',” Thor continues, “our project will place the farmers in charge of the processing, so that they eventually own what is produced from cocoa beans in Uganda.” “Our intention is not only to buy cocoa beans from the individual farmers, but also vanilla pods, chilli, passion fruit — all used in the processing of the chocolate.”

The idea is that the Uganda project will begin processing their own products, like cocoa butter, from the beans, because a product immediately fetches greater value on the market, than raw cocoa beans.

Thor wants the farmers in the CocoáFair project to be equipped with the means to eventually own the products. He believes that this is the way out of poverty, through social entreprenuer projects, by which individual farmers collectively own the process of product production thus earning enough money to reinvest in further potential product production.

“But we need to put an infrastructure in place in Uganda”, Thor explains, which he believes starts at grass roots level with a Cocoa school that will make sure that children finish school, and are the best possible cocoa farmers because of it. At the moment, too many children are dropping out to help their parents produce cocoa for the market.

The ambitions of the project extend further still. Thor, whose background includes an ice cream chain in Denmark, intends taking the social enterprise to Denmark in 2012 where he will identify an underprivileged group and set up a similar project there, for the production of chocolate. A project that will use the cocoa beans and products coming out of Uganda.

Thor's idea is to get business and other interested parties involved as shareholders of the projects, so that he has money to invest in expanding the social projects. The idea is that, once it's worked in Cape Town and Copenhagen, they will get buy-in. Thor believes that social enterprises like this are the future.

I'm even more impressed when Thor begins outlining the little ways in which the project at the Biscuit Mill is a social entrepreneurship. Already the price of an organic bar of chocolate is more reasonable, at only R20 a 100g bar, despite being artisan and locally produced, than one can buy at Woolworths (who re-package the former Green & Blacks chocolate bar).

CocoáFair throw nothing away. All the shavings and 'waste' chocolate is mixed up to produce an organic chocolate which Thor intends selling in the townships at a ridiculous price of R1 for a bag of pralines.

He smiles when I exclaim at the cost. “In this way we can encourage entrepreneurship in the townships. When someone can then knock the price up and still sell a cheap bag of first-rate chocolate, then we're improving the lives of people – both those who sell and those who eat the healthier product.”

In a similar vein he intends bringing the price of the healthier chocolate down. One of the ways of reinvesting in people, CocoáFair believes, is to lower the cost of the healthier chocolates – so the 95% and 75% cocoa chocolate bars – so that they are more accessible to the average person, and not just those of us who can afford them.

And then there is Zuki Balata, whose dream, when she was interviewed by Thor, is to own her own chocolate shop. Zuki may have started by cleaning up, but she is fast learning the ins and outs of chocolate production, and soon Thor and CocoáFair will help Zuki realise her dream, when they open a shop in Woodstock.

I think I'm inlove with the concept of social entrepreneurship the way that CocoáFair is doing it.

Ask yourself: “If I want to buy a piece of chocolate and I stand in front of two chocolate shops. They are completely equal when it comes to quality, price, product etc. The only difference between them is the business model. Shop A is a social enterprise and shop B is a full profit orientated business enterprise. Which one would I enter?”

For the visitor:

• Visit -  CocoáFair at the Biscuit Mill, 373 – 375 Albert Road, Old Biscuit Mill, Woodstock, Monday to Saturday
• Tour — either for a group or a school through the workshop
• Kiddies' parties – think Mr Wonka and Charlie, and a river of chocolate, they get to eat as much as they can and have fun!
• Learn – attend a 3–4 hour chocolate course

CocoáFair is the first organic bean-to-bar chocolate factory in Africa based on social entrepreneurship.

Useful Links

Woodstock Attractions
Things to Do in Woodstock
Woodstock Accommodation
Cape Town Accommodation

Langa, Cape Flats

For those of us whities who live in Cape Town, the townships of Khayelitsha, Gugs (Gugelethu) and Langa are places one seldom visits. Most of us give them a rather wide berth, if truth be told, their association with crime, gangsterism, poverty, Aids and anti-white sentiment enough to maintain the segregation of our past.

And yet, on the odd occasion an attempt to find a short-cut to the airport, or a flat tyre just outside Langa (during which I was given tea, a chair on which to sit and a far cheaper offer on a pair of new tyres than I would have got elsewhere), has brought me into contact with a totally different view of the townships.

Anxiety is met only with open-hearted hospitality and kindness. And for any of my friends who visit from Europe, a township tour is an automatic itinerary item, making my avoidance of something they hunger to visit, ever so slightly embarrassing. I begin to suspect that my take on townships is skewed.

Khayelitsha, Cape Flats

But even a tour of the townships can end up having a slightly voyeuristic aspect to it. Sitting safely for the majority of the trip behind the glass of the windows of a mini bus does not a first-hand experience make.

It's the guesthouses and B&Bs that allow one to really meet the people of Langa or Khayelitsha first-hand, and to walk the streets, play soccer with local children and even, as Radebe's B&B (and coffee shack) offers, a Sunday church service.

It's a far cry from the luxury villas that litter the Atlantic Seaboard right up against the mountain, but the informal settlements, with their tin shacks that tumble up and down the dunes, and one another, lining the fences along the N2 en route to the airport, are rapidly becoming a viable alternative of accommodation for visitors.

Gugulethu, Cape Flats

But you still want to reserve a fair amount of caution when on a  visit. The townships aren't to be strolled alone. You'll need a guide as they're usually from the township through which they take you and they know where to stop and what is safe for you to do. In a way it's a false sense of security. The people here have learnt that when you arrive with a guide, you're a tourist, and as such are there to boost the local economy.

Not everyone likes the township tours for this reason. Rachel, from San Francisco found the disparity even within the townships between rich and poor overwhelming. “I found I was embarassed when it came to handing my money for the tour to the tour operator in front of neighbourhood kids, who so obviously see that amount of money only when tourists come to visit.”

But most visitors leave the townships the richer for it. “I enjoyed the vibrancy of the streets,” says Liam from Scotland on his whirlwind tour of Cape Town, “I loved the spaza shops and the hawkers who man their stalls selling cabbage and apples until well after dark, trying to catch the homeward bound traffic. I should have had a haircut at the barber I passed, his shop, and the music he played...I dig that sort of thing when travelling.”

Where to stay in Khayelitsha

Vicky's B&B

Vicky's B&B
Vicky's shack-style B&B, built from corrugated iron and wood, is bigger than it looks, its quirky hand-painted sign visible near the wrought-iron front gate. Vicky and her husband built their house themselves, and as the business has grown, so it has extended. There is a shared living area with access to TV and the kitchen is available for tea making. Vicky, or her children, will take you on a walking tour of the vicinity, if you ask them, and her husband will help get you from A to B. And there's a shebeen across the road, though closed at night

Address: C-685A Kiyane Street, Site C, Khayelitsha
Telephone: +27 (0)21 387‑7104

Kopanong B&B
Accommodating up to six guests overnight, Thope Lekau not only runs the guest house but is also a registered tour guide and community economic development worker. She's something of a local legend and serves as a role model to other women on how to run your own business. Her B&B has been open since 1999 and her kitchen is usually full, as when people don't stay, they come for lunch. Enjoy breakfast and a traditional dinner, which you can arrange in advance.

Address: C329 Velani Crescent, Khayelitsha
Telephone: +27 (0)21 361‑2084

Malebo's B&B

Malebo's B&B
Lydia Masoleng, former domestic worker turned guest house owner, has cooking skills that are something of a legend, particularly her Umfino – spinach, maize meal and chakalaka, which you are welcome to wash down with her version of home brewed ginger beer. She opened her guest house in 1998 after she hosted a couple of Americans out to visit her church. She offers three bedrooms with a large breakfast. Eat dinner with her or at her cousin's restaurant just up the road.

Address: 18 Mississippi Way, Khayelitsha
Telephone: +27 (0)21 361‑2391

Majoro's B&B
Maria is your host at Majoro's that can accommodate four people in twin or double rooms. It claims to have been the first B&B in the township and includes a traditional, English or continental breakfast. Lunch and dinner can also be provided if you would like it. If you are interested there is a list of other things Maria will get you involved in, like an afternoon walk around the township, a visit to a local Sangoma, an evening of shebeen hopping, a chat with locals and more.

Address: 69 Helena Crescent, Graceland, Khayelitsha

Where to stay in Gugs

Liziwe's Guest House

Mbalentle
At Mbalentle you have a choice between B&B or full board and one of four rooms in what Florence calls her 'ethnic guesthouse'. In the vicinity are the Amy Biehl Memorial and the Gugulethu Seven Memorial and you can book a township tour through Florence too.

Address: 23 Pallotti Road, Montana
Telephone: +27 (0)21 934‑0040

Lizewe'e B&B
Close to the famous Mzoli's restaurant, Lizewe's is slightly different because large groups can rent the cottage for self-catering purposes, along with the restaurant which you can reserve for a feast of authentic African food. Lizewe's also has access to walking tours, Mozolis and a sangoma.

Address: NY111-No121, Gugulethu
Telephone: +27 (0)21 633‑7406

Where to stay in Langa

Ma Neo's B&B

Ma Neo's B&B
Ma Neo's vibrant Coca Cola-sponsored sign distinguishes her house from others in Zone 7. The atmosphere is also colourful and Ma Neo makes a concerted effort to share her township life with her guests.

Address: Zone 7 No 30, Langa
Telephone: +27 (0)21 694‑2504

Radebe's B&B
Three themed bedrooms welcome guests to Minah Radebe's home where you can look forward to an African breakfast (or continental, if you must) as well as lunch and dinner (but you'll need to ask for these). Minah too will walk you through her streets.

Address: 23 PW Mama Way, Settlers Place, Langa
Telephone: +27 (0)21 695‑0508

Useful Links

Langa Attractions
Cape Flats, Cape Town
Khayelitsha Attractions
Gugulethu Accommodation
Gugulethu Things to Do
Western Cape Accommodation
Western Cape Hotels

Goedverwacht

Dave Cornelius stoops to enter the Home of Snoek en Patat, Goedverwacht's local coffee shop that also functions as the heart of the little village, at least as far as the youth is concerned.

He can't be more than 22 years old, but he smiles and confidently holds out his hand for me to shake. He's been hastily recruited to come and talk to the English woman who has graced the premises after being directed to the coffee shop by a couple of the local kids, in search of a little more knowledge on the village.

Goedverwacht is something out of Eden. The little dorp – where colourful fruit trees and gardens line the main road through town — lies around the back side of the Piket Mountain with a river running through it.

It's gorgeous, but don't tell too many people.

Actually, on speaking to Dave and having discovered in his words, that there is “more to Goedverwacht than meets the eye”, you should not only tell people but visit as well, as there is little marketing material to tell you otherwise, and Goedverwacht is a village worth exploring.

The history too is colourful. The village was originally a farm called Burgershoek, owned by a Hendrik Schalk Burger, who, in his old age, was cared for by Christiana Maniesa, his slave, and her five children after his progeny had all but abandoned him.

In thanks, he left the farm to Maniesa with the proviso that the farm remain her property until her death. Burger's children of course took the case to court, but the will was very clearly and carefully thought out and the judge found in favour of the former slave.

In 1845 the Moravian missionaries were already interested in the farm – who wouldn't be, it is beautifully situated and well watered; an idyllic part of the Cape – but Christiana died only in 1888, keeping them waiting. In the interim, and this explains the presence of the little dorp just down the road known as Wittewater, the missionaries bought the adjoining farm.

The property remains in their hands and the present day Goedverwacht village is what evolved out of the Goedverwacht mission station – the church still a stalwart presence.

Dave's mom is a teacher at the school that turned 100 years' old this year. She, like many of the people in the village, realises the importance of investing in the future of the children. So Dave has just returned from a stint in Cape Town where he studied a stream of courses that included business management and something to do with computers – I don't catch it all.

But the obvious intention is there. Children are the future. They are sent to primary and high school in the village, and tertiary education is recognised as an important way in which to better themselves. And for fun. Well, that's where Dave comes in. He helps run the Development Forum in Goedverwacht, based at the coffee shop – it's kind of like Sewende Laan but in a village.

Kids need a hang out. And since Goedverwacht doesn't do drugs, and there isn't a mall, the forum added a roof over a portion of sand along one side of the coffee shop, where kids can pull up chairs and play games like dominoes, which they're doing as Dave and I speak. When I walk past them, I even get the odd saucy 'en waar gaan Tannie?' (where is auntie going) flung in my direction.

Dave talks enthusiastically about the Heritage Festival the village celebrated just a couple of weeks back. With the school's centenary, the village celebrated with traditional dances, a huge party, and plays performed by the youth about their history.

I'm just about to suggest to Dave that the village really needs to get its marketing in gear when he mentions that this year's annual Snoek and Patat Fees saw 10 000 people turn out to take part in the festivities that include a series of market stalls right here at the coffee shop, the back side of which is a gorgeous garden.

I'm fairly impressed. Even more so when Dave begins to list the various tourist attractions in Goedverwacht. The village calls itself a 'sustainable working village' and there are numerous gardens and organic vegetable gardens to explore, the old Mill Museum where the history of the village is enshrined, the old stone church that sits beautifully on a little hill above the road, opposite the water mill.

Two houses have recently been built to offer accommodation for visitors on a self-catering or B&B basis. Each of them has a cosy fireplace and sleeps up to six, but Dave assures me that there are also another couple of options within the villagers' homes too.

There is an annual Easter flower market that attracts hundreds of visitors, and there are cycle routes and two incredible hikes in the area – Klok se Poort and the Peerboom Route, each of which can be guided by villagers.

Dave laughs and says to me that just about anyone can take you on a hike around the village and through the hills around town, there's nothing to it – “the children all know the surrounds so well. They can take you to see rock paintings. When anyone uncovers something new on the hillside, we all go off, have a braai and discuss whatever it is, before coming home again.”

Dave runs a local bicycle programme too. He has a series of bikes that he rents out at a ridiculously low rate of R2 an hour, but he says it must be affordable for the local kids. All he needs to make from it is enough to maintain the bikes. They sometimes go on drives up to the farms in the hills, in similar fashion to the marathons they see on television.

He's also involved in trying to rescue the youth soccer players. It appears they've been thrown out of the village field by the local rugby team and came to the forum for help. Dave is in the process of formally writing to the church about using space on the rugby field for the avid soccer fans.

I take a look out to the fynbos covered hills and drink in the unspoilt natural vegetation around me, surrounded by chatting villagers, and I can think of no reason why anyone born here would even contemplate leaving.

When in Goedverwacht:

• Hike the Peerboom (pear tree) route via the old graveyard and on to the village of Wittewater
• Hike Klok se Poort
• Attend the Snoek en Patat Fees in June
• Revel in the flower festival over Easter (next one due in April 2012)
• Visit the Mill Museum (ask for a guide at the Home of Snoek en Patat coffee shop)
• Arrange to visit the local vegetable, fruit and flower gardens
• Chat to locals at Home of Snoek en Patat
• Can't get there? Mike Smith runs buses and taxis between Goedverwacht and Piketberg

Useful Links:

• Swartland Accommodation
• Swartland Hotels
• Swartland Agricultural Show
• The Swartland — A Visitors Perspective
• Western Cape Accommodation

High Constantia

I feel like one of the privileged few when a friend of mine mentions he knows a wine maker. And not just any wine maker. We're talking High Constantia here.

“Where is High Constantia?” I ask, losing any kudos as a wine connoisseur, whilst mentally following the Constantia wine route down the hill from Constantia Nek – Groot Constantia, Klein Constantia, Steenberg – but I soon realise, on closer examination, that the route has acquired a couple of 'newer' farms – well, 'new' in the sense that they're newly on the route.

High Constantia is anything but a new farm. Groot Constantia, way back in the year 1693 when High Constantia first came into existence, had to pass between the very gate posts that still stand down at High Constantia Village (people know it more commonly as the village where Green's restaurant is) in order to reach their farm. Anyone travelling out here, had to bypass High Constantia in order to reach Groot Constantia.

In those days, High Constantia started as an outpost, growing supplies for those using it as a halfway mark between Simon's Town and Cape Town. Then it was known as Wittebomen, and it was only when Sebastiaan van Renen bought the land in 1813 that High Constantia began to grow vines.

Karin van Niekerk describes to me, on a subsequent visit, how the original vines were planted in similar fashion to the way it was done in France, in straight rows down the hillside. They promptly washed away in the first Cape deluge, and van Renen had to start again.

Things are pretty much the same today (not the grape vines, the road). High Constantia's gates lie just outside those of Groot Constantia. High Constantia now occupies only a small portion of the original farmland, and is a pretty laidback affair. So laidback that some visitors mistake the farm gate for a private residence (despite the obvious wine vats in the cellar at the bottom of the drive) and turn around.

Those who do venture down past the house meet Dave and Karin van Niekerk and get to sip some of the most succulent wines in the Constantia Valley (and a notable vintage Method Cap Classique – Clos Andre) on an informal veranda, surrounded by dipping sun birds, a gorgeous garden, wooden wine vats, and some of the most enviable views of the mountain in Constantia.

But I get ahead of myself, as the first time I visit the wine farm, it is bucketing down. This time there is a crowd of us huddled in amongst the wine vats on an evening, listening to Dave speak about his wines.

Dave is exceptionally personable. There are no airs and graces about the man who studied industrial psychology, then worked in the world of finance and finally followed his dream to make wine on the farm his father acquired during the 1960s, when the road leading to Groot Constantia was sand, and wine tourism was something still very much of the future.

Back then High Constantia was no longer making wine. It was just a beautiful farm of about a hectare alongside Groot Constantia. That it was called High Constantia was the stuff of archives.

Dave expounds on his Clos Andre 2008, a Cap Classique (we don't call them Champagne as you know, as the name has been trademarked). A lot of what he says is beyond me – stablising tartaric acid and the way he allows the wine to settle in a riddling rack and riddles it at quarter turn every day until it eventually releases the residue that has gradually built up in the neck of the bottle.

But he is very good at telling a story, and I am caught up in the story of wine making before I know it. “The pre-requisites of a good champagne,” Dave continues, “is that it is not too yellow, not too clear, with fine bubbles rising.” We all duly sip. Some of us a little more than others, and within a very short period the room is humming with laughter and commentary (not many of us have had dinner).

The Clos Andre is followed by a Sauvignon Blanc, which we all sip with abandon. In between sips we learn that the Constantia Valley does not spray their grapes. High Constantia uses wasps and ladybirds as their major biological control.

“South Africans,” mutters Dave darkly, “like their Sauvignon Blanc preferably as we pick the grapes, whilst Europeans like it aged.” He continues to explain how the wine is pale straw colour and that it lies in a tank for a whole year. For it to age, it rests for five to seven years.

Someone asks a question about sulphur in wines. Dave explains that if you're concerned about sulphur, buy wines with a screw top as these naturally have lower sulphur content. He then goes on at some length to explain that the better the wine, the lower sulphur content. Those wines with a poor grape quality need to add more sulphur to lower the ph balance of the wine.

“The bottom line,” says Dave, “ — is not to use unhealthy grapes in the wine making process”.

By now we've moved on to the Malbec 2006 and I'm really getting into this wine tasting session. The High Constantia Malbec must be one of the most wonderful wines ever to pass my palate (which isn't saying much, but I do know a bad wine when it burns my throat).

The wine, which has 4 stars, tastes of 'spiced pears, peppery blackberries and dark cherries...'. It is matured in French oak, new and second fill barrels for 12 months and I can personally vouch for it, as I can for the Cabernet Franc that followed. It is exceptional. It also has 4 stars and is described beautifully as 'sun ripe, lush, mouth-coating wine, earthy sweet red berries.”

I return to High Constantia a couple of weekends later to take in the views from the veranda. Just across the pond from the veranda is the former manor house of High Constantia. Today it's the Schoenstadt nunnery, part of the Catholic Church.

Karin explains to me that Dave is both the viticulturist and viniculturist. So he prepares the soil, plants and grows the vines and makes the wine. He uses 14.5 hectares around the Constantia Valley, one of which we can see extends its way up the side of the valley in the distance.

The wine estate has a real hands-on feel to it. Nothing is rushed here. All is done in a perfect way at the right moment. What it lacks for in size, High Constantia makes up for in quality. I'm encouraging everyone I know to visit this tucked away Constantia Valley wine farm, and get a taste of heaven.

Where to Find Them:

Address: Groot Constantia Road, Constantia, Cape Town
Telephone: +27 (021) 794‑7171

Useful Constantia Links:

Constantia Attractions
Things to Do in Constantia
Constantia Hotels
Constantia Accommodation
Westerm Cape Accommodation

Sabie Valley Coffee

Let me start by dispelling a few coffee myths: you shouldn't store ground coffee in the fridge but in an airtight container, decaf coffee is punted by the industry because it retails at a higher price not because it's healthier for you, instant coffee is usually chicory and Robusta coffee (cheaper to produce, inferior taste, higher in caffeine) not Arabica, and there is no money to be made in growing coffee crops in South Africa.

Today coffee crops cost more than any other agricultural crop in the country. South Africa used to grow lots of coffee during the '70s and '80s, but today, remarkably, the Sabie farm runs at a loss, something Tim freely admits. It is the roastery, the retail and distribution of coffee around the country to enthusiastic local coffee supporters that keep Sabie afloat.

All this, and more, I learn in a relatively short space of time from a remarkably personable Tim Buckland (no relation to famous mime artist, Andrew, I checked), the owner of Sabie Valley Coffee who does weekly coffee tours of his roastery in the Lowveld.

Sabie Valley Coffee roastery and coffee shop lie in a rather obscure looking building that doesn't exactly invite 'oohs' and 'ahs', particularly on an uncharacteristically misty day, the rain coming down enough to attract vast quantities of mud and drenched umbrellas to the front seat of the car, which my five-year old insists on using as his springboard to the back seat.

I'm a little disappointed by the façade of the building (spoilt by all those Cape Dutch wine farms back home), but decide this is definitely not enough to deter me from a dry interior and the chance to learn more about how coffee is roasted locally. Besides, there's that old adage – don't judge a book...

The coffee shop and roastery lie on the R536 between Hazyview and Sabie, but closer to the Hazyview side, just a little further, in fact, than the Windmill Wine Shop (if you're coming from Sabie and want to do wine and coffee together).

Sabie Valley is not the only coffee farm in South Africa. There are a few in KZN, but generally the industry in South Africa has all but gone under for various reasons – it's labour intensive, it's cheaper to import coffee, the coffee roasting industry is full of, to quote Time, scullduggery, and solely growing green coffee (the beans) that is then supplied to local merchants is not lucrative.

Sabie Valley is still flourishing because Tim and his wife Kim thought outside the box and decided to develop their own unique roasting technique (they had to as no-one in the roasting industry exactly invited them to come and learn how to do it), began to sell their own coffee brand, and opened a coffee shop that gives coffee tours on average once a week.

Despite not growing for anyone other than their own roastery, the Bucklands still produce a whopping 50 tons a year. The eight hectares of Sabie coffee plant only Arabica coffee beans, which they harvest between March and May, using only women to handpick the seeds.

As we move outside, the rain had abated enough to take in the beautiful veranda, tree-filled garden on the banks of the Sabie River, and the baby coffee bushes growing infront of us. We study the young Arabica bushes that take about two years to bear fruit, the seeds of which take roughly six to seven months to develop and once mature, are a healthy red and ready for harvest.

It takes 400–500 cherries to make a 250g bag of coffee. I swallow hard. No wonder we're importing coffee from South America and North Africa, even if some of it is organic and Fairtrade. I make a mental note to support local coffee instead.

By now the smell of coffee roasting is threatening to do me in if I can't either get closer to it, or drink it. Tim invites us all (the group is fairly big, about 20 of us) into his roastery. It's off to the side of the coffee shop, behind a glass door so that you can hear the sound of his roaster and smell the effects of roasting coffee beans. If you haven't already ordered a cuppa, you will after being exposed to the aroma.

Tim waxes lyrical. There is no doubt that he loves doing this. He speaks about the chemical reaction that occurs at 240 degrees where heat converts proteins contained in the coffee beans into aromatic oils. He talks about the different colours of the coffee that equates with different strengths of the drink, and he mentions how important it is to cool the beans quickly so that they retain their flavour.

He also forbids any of us, quite firmly, to stick how hands into the now warm beans as the beans in this form are unstable, and it is a processed food that can become contaminated. He uses a giant wooden paddle to cool the beans by shifting them gently around.

The roastery is not large. There is one operating roaster, the table onto which the beans are then placed, and then bags and bags of beans around us. The bags of raw beans last up to two years as the caffeine in them is not yet active, provided they aren't wet. The minute they are roasted they become perishable.

Tim spends quite some time on 100% Arabica coffee. He ventures that many supermarket chains do not sell Arabica, opting instead for cheaper, faster moving equivalents that are a blend of coffees, including Robusta.

I check my coffee on coming home and find that it is definitely 100% Arabica. Most of the coffees in my local are too. Perhaps this was something of the past and consumers have become more demanding?

Things get really interesting when he begins to talk about the different roasts and the fact that if you are sensitive to caffeine, as I am, you should buy an espresso roast and put it in your cafetiere, and that one should grind for one's method of making coffee. So if using an espresso machine, your beans will be ground until very fine.

He also advocates grinding your own beans as then you can drink coffee not only at its freshest, but nothing else has gone into the grind, like fillers. But I'm not sure that the Woolworths' of this world would get away with bulking up the coffees they sell as 100% Arabica.

The really interesting coffee tour now at an end, all questions asked, and much smelling of coffee beans later, we file through to find coffee and the most delicious chocolate cake known to man at our table places in the coffee shop.

How to Order:

Sabie coffee only roasts to order. Their medium roast, bushveld roast, dark roast and espresso are available at Lowveld Spars, private game lodges, restaurants, guest houses and coffee shops. But they also post to individuals nationally at competitive prices. You can order online: http://www.sabievalleycoffee.com/categories/Coffee-Roasts/

Where to Find Them:

You will find Sabie Coffee roughly 10 kilometres from Hazyview on the R536.
Telephone Sabie Valley Coffee on +27 (0)13 737‑8169 for further details

Useful Sabie Links:

Sabie Attractions
Things to Do in Sabie
Sabie Accommodation
Sabie Guest Houses
Sabie Events
Mpumalanga Hotels
Mpumalanga Accommodation

Casterbridge

White River is linked to Nelspruit by the R40. The two towns are so close (20 minutes' drive) that it is only time before they merge, incorporating the rather innocuous Rocky Drift that at the moment serves as a buffer between them.

The secret to travel, anywhere, is to do as the locals do – 'when in Rome' and all that. I realise more and more that it isn't about reading travel brochures – they'll send you where they want you to go – but following the trail of locals, as they'll lead you to spaces and places where spending your hard-earned dosh will feel that much more rewarding.

And so we ask around Nelspruit before leaving for White River. Locals unanimously agree that when in White River, Casterbridge is the place to be. When we finally get to White River it is heartening to see that, despite its being a week day, the Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre's parking lot is already obviously filling up.

Calling it a lifestyle centre is a little misleading though, as it brings to mind a mall of sorts, which it isn't. It gives the appearance at first of being on the grounds of an old farm. The buildings are all beautifully overhung with ivy and creepers, the gardens are reminiscent of those of the Palace of Versailles (in a far more diminutive way, of course) and there are enough trees dotted in and around the series of buildings to add to the feeling of being on a farm.

Casterbridge lies on a slight rise just outside of town. It began, I believe, as a motor museum, which is still there and really worth a visit. But today the centre is an assemblage of shops and restaurants, a couple of art galleries, antiques, a cinema, a pilates studio and spa, a boutique hotel and a series of offices one can use as one's base (bags the corner office, close to a tea shop!)

I find that my eyes kind of glaze over at most of the boutique style shops until I stumble upon Africa Joy. I've already got my camera poised for some shots of the eclectic mix of gifts, décor, jewellery and other nick nacks, all original, local and supporting either a community upliftment project or eco friendly in some way, when Marlize strolls in.

This is Marlize's shop. She and Dudu run things, but it is Marlize, whose background is in design and architecture, who has put it all together. She shows me her Fullcycle worm bin, which she keeps just outside the shop, and says that one of the reasons she chose this shop was because she could keep the worms there. I get the impression that she's intent on roping in everyone in the centre to recycling their organic waste, and am impressed at her ambition.

I'm really taken with her shop and this side of the centre. It is tucked way at the back, just opposite the entrance to the hotel and, admittedly, there must be many visitors who don't even venture down the corridors beyond the initial restaurants and tea rooms, nut and flower shops to this side of things. However, it is just beyond the motor museum, to which I am dragged, midway through my exploration, by my overly-eager son who wants to show me a couple of the cars.

It's a remarkably informal set-up – simply a series of, admittedly awesome, cars lined up down the two sides of a warehouse, and what seems to be a couple of offices above them. You can enter, stroll around, and leave, without any of the usual 'museum' formalities. It's fun.

Just across from Africa Joy is Rottcher Wineries Avalencia, orange wine for the tasting. I've heard a lot about wine made from oranges here in the Lowveld, and I'm quite keen to hear more about it. They are not the only orange winery in South Africa, but they are the oldest, and the shop also serves as their cellar where oranges are fermented to produce a sweet drink that is something like port, and which I find I don't enjoy, much to my dismay as the concept of drinking wine made from oranges rather tickles my fancy.

It does come served in the loveliest clay, stoppered flask made by the potter across the corridor from here, Antjie Newton, who creates mainly tableware in her high fired ovens in beautiful earthy colours.

Just down from Antjie Newton's studio is the White River Art Gallery, presently exhibiting a selection of prints by artists from The Artists' Press, called the Art of the Lithograph. Marlize has impressed upon me to visit.

I am entranced by Judith Mason's Pomegranate print, a seven-colour lithograph that I immediately want to own. I sit doing rough calculations as to whether or not the budget can possibly be stretched to accommodate a limited edition print, whilst my husband paces nervously behind me. I finally decide to simply enjoy the exhibition for its beauty and simplicity, rather than trying to own a piece of it.

The Artists' Press began in 1991 when Mark Attwood met David Koloane and Sandy Burnett. The group of artists began meeting at the Fordsburg Artists' Studios in Newtown, Johannesburg. Today, work editioned by the studio graces collections all over the world, including the Museum of Modern Art (NYC), the Smithsonian Institute, the SA National Gallery, Metropolitan Museum of Art, and numerous others, including individual's private collections.

The main thrust behind the Artist's Press is to introduce South African printmaking to global audiences, to give artists the chance to collaborate with master printers, to produce high quality original prints, and to introduce artists to print techniques, often a new medium for many of them.

My overall impression of the gallery is that it is unassuming and unpretentious, its walls allowing the art to speak for itself, the sun streaming in from high windows  not enough to distort one's appreciation of the art. On the other side of a concrete box room that acts as a room divider, an artist sits working in what can only be deemed a studio. But it gives visitors like me the chance to peek.

Just outside is an artfully placed children's play area with a swing and jungle gym. On the far side of the quadrangle, another restaurant. In keeping with Thomas Hardy's Mayor of Casterbridge (based on the town of Dorchester in Dorset), which is considered one of Hardy's best works, the Casterbridge Centre is easily the highlight of a visit to White River.

White River Links

• White River Attractions
• Things to Do in White River
• White River Hotels
• White River Accommodation
• Mpumalanga Accommodation

Le Pâtissier

Croissants, country ham, quiche Lorraine, pastries that include apple turnover, Belgian milk tart, chocolate eclair, Danish eight, apple frangipane, custard slice; Belgian breakfast with an assortment of cheeses, croissant or pain au chocolat, health bread sandwiches, artisan breads of every description, and coffee to die for...

Hazyview, when we get there, is busy. That it rests just outside the Kruger National Park is doubtless the reason, particularly as every second vehicle is some rendition of the safari jeep; the type with staggered rows of seating reminiscent of a mini-theatre on wheels – 'ta da, we're here to see wild life!'

As a town that centres around Kruger tourism one obviously needs to be aware of the little tourist traps, like Hazyview's Rondevous Centre, a fine spot to stop if you're intent on booking a safari or a tour of the Kruger, but the second-hand bookshop has prices that would make even Capetonians grumble, and the little clothing boutique is fine if you're shopping with gran.

But drive a little further along Main Road (with Nelspruit behind you) and you'll reach the corner of Sabie Road where rests Perry's Bridge Centre, a collection of shops, boutiques and restaurants that doesn't resemble a mall, which is refreshing. It also shies away from any chain stores, other than a Pappa's pizza pasteria, and even boasts a brewery.

The place is so obviously popular that parking your car in the tree-laden parking area is difficult. Children run helter skelter, there's a man chasing a pig (a pig!) that is obviously not his — given his rather patient and tedious manner it clearly belongs to his boss — and people are milling around under trees. Perhaps it is merely that I'm driving a huge car that isn't mine that entails finding at least two adjacent parking spaces in which to swing in order to park it at all that makes it appear busier than it is.

To one side is the popular Trading Post but we explore a little deeper into the centre and discover Le Pâtissier, Hazyview's Belgian Baker. It's worth holding out for. The place inside is teeming. It isn't hard to imagine why. One side of the shop is given over to the bakery, the shelves lined with various assortments of freshly baked artisan breads, cakes, pies and Danish pastries.

The woman behind the counter is happy to chat in-between serving customers, but my getting a word in is difficult as people are constantly buying – who can resist a Danish, huh?. Ilse turns out to be the other half of the Merchiers' team, the woman who nudged Gérard, her bored husband, from retirement back into the business of baking in a bid to get him out from under her feet. Now, she in turn, is enrolled in dishing out Danish.

Gérard hasn't had a chance before now to practise as a baker in South Africa. After training as a baker for many years, he ran a bakery in Brussels for 10 years, but on coming to South Africa he chose instead to run the local Spar in Hazyview. It was here that he met Ilse, originally from the Congo. On retirement he began toying with the idea of a bakery again. And what a good thing he did.

To one side of the shop is the working bakery, where a group of about three bakers is busy rolling and pummelling dough into various shapes and sizes. The bakery uses no chemicals, enhancers or preservatives. It also uses only the best and most local ingredients – butter, full-cream milk and sugar — and everything is baked on the premises. Watching them is a treat too, and they obviously enjoy what they do, which makes my enjoyment of the food that much greater – happy bakers=happy food.

Gérard is absent, but then I suppose that is excusable, given that he's been in the bakery since 2am (not the usual 4am start, his wife explains to me) and keeps a tight control over everything. He is apparently given to returning home at 11, so we've only just missed him. But I don't need to see him to realise his worth as a baker. The proof is in the pudding, literally, as, when we do order, his wares are so obviously some of the best in the country.

The bakery was originally a wine shop that used to serve cheese platters to go with wine tasting. Gérard began baking bread from home for the shop. Before long he was invited to come and bake on the premises, where he shared the wine shop. It took a while, Ilse tells me, before a journalist wrote a story in the Sunday Times, and they suddenly hit the big time.

Business just 'took off' and since then, they've taken over the wine shop, and when the shop next door became available, they occupied that space as well. It's now filled with chocolate, sweets, dried fruits and nuts and other foods you'd expect to find in a deli.

We nab a table on the verandah. It's a bit of a dicey choice as the clouds are threatening rain, but we manage to find a table under cover whilst listening to the table alongside us heatedly debate over which of the waterfalls around Sabie they have seen, and which were the best. My consensus, by halfway through the debate, is that they've seen so many waterfalls they can't remember half of them. Definitely time for a coffee.

I order a decaf whilst my son and other half order a hot chocolate and coffee a piece. Between us we share a chocolate éclair and a Danish that spoil all other Danish pastries (except for those at Olympia Bakery in Kalk Bay – I remain loyal) and stumble out of there, distinctly the better for the experience.

Whilst at Perry's Bridge, take time to stroll the grounds and visit the various curio shops, galleries and adventure booking office. Just behind Morse Nurseries is Perry's Bridge Reptile Park with quite an amazing collection of snakes, tortoises, frogs and even a huge crocodile. Try and make the snake handler's display as his mixture of stories and facts give one a new found respect for reptiles. And the silk shop that includes mopani worm silk, a rougher textured silk that is great for throws, rugs and shawls.

Hazyview Links

• Hazyview Accommodation
• Hazyview Hotels
• Hazyview Attractions
• Things to Do in Hazyview
• Mpumalanga Hotels
• Mpumalanga Accommodation

Kruger National Park

The Kruger National Park is undoubtedly THE place to be when it comes to seeing game in what should be their natural environment.  Even if during school holidays the number of people entering the park is questionable, traffic fairly congested, and the tendency of individuals to do silly things like feed hyenas and monkeys (now a constant pest in various rest camps) a sign that even in the Kruger, humans are encroaching on the freedom of the animals within. Despite this Kruger Park is a fantastic experience.

One of the world's largest game parks, Kruger has received a  myriad accolades for nature conservation and, more recently, has begun lowering fences that separate the park from neighbouring reserves, allowing the wildlife within even greater access to land and water, and increasing the chance to spot game.

But entering the park for the first time can be a little overwhelming. There are over nine entry points into the park and information on Kruger Park accommodation and the park in general is sometimes confusing.

We've put together a few tips and guidelines to help.

When at Kruger, what to remember:

• 50 km/hr speed limit — whilst the distances between camps might not sound a lot, the speed limit in the park is 50 km/hr on tar roads, so allow roughly 2.5 hours between camps for game viewing. Oh, and, stick to the limit, it's there for a reason...something to do with consideration for animals
• up with the birds – the general consensus is that getting out at dawn is almost guaranteed to reveal the best game, however, when we were there during winter, this was not the case; some of the best game spotting was during the mid-morning.
• dams, hides and picnic spots – you can break your drives by stopping at these, and some of them prove really great game viewing spots, particularly the dams and hides
• take your own – food (restaurants and shops provide only average and expensive meals), bath plugs, torches, insect repellent, sun block, hats and hiking boots
• take advantage of the night drives and guided walking trails – the night drives in particular need to be booked in advance and are well worth it. Each park has a different rate, so do your homework and book at those that charge a little less
• car hire at Skukuza – should your car break down, or if you are part of a tour
• petrol – the larger rest camps provide fuel
• remember to recycle – the park has prominent recycling bins at gates and rest camps

The difference between bush camps, rest camps, private camps,
and private lodges and camps

The rest camps and bush camps are fairly similar to look at, but are inherently different. The rest camps are – Skukuza, Balule, Pretoriuskop, Berg-en-Dal, Satara, Lower Sabie, Punda Maria, Shingwedzi, Olifants, Mopane, Tamboti, Orpen, Malelane, Maroela and Crocodile Bridge. At each of these are bungalows, camping and sometimes chalets, guest houses and tented camps, restaurants, shops and even the odd evening film.

The bush camps, sometimes referred to as bushveld camps, are quieter and more remote rest camps, also with their own toilets and kitchen facilities, but without shops or restaurants. There is no camping available, and thus the general rush of people that usually descend on the rest camps for lunch, are not allowed into the bush camps. These include Bateleur, Biyamiti, Shimuwini, Sirheni and Talamati. They're generally quieter and more remote.

Private camps are usually for groups of visitors and include Boulders, Malelane, Tsendze rustic campsite and Roodewal. These are usually booked up months in advance, for obvious reasons. Lovely if you've a slightly larger group (but look at them even if you a family)

Private lodges – until recently the policy of the Kruger was not to allow private lodge operators into the park. However, this has apparently changed, and a limited number of private lodges, other than those just outside the park, have been allowed to 'set up camp'. These include: Jock Safari Lodge, Pafuri, Imbali, Plains, Rhino Post, Camps Shawu, Camp Shonga and Hamiltons Tented Camp.

What to do other than drive around in your car
– guided walks and outdoor activities

Whilst undoubtedly a lot of fun is to be had driving slowly through the more remote parts of the park to spot game, this can get a little monotonous after a couple of days. There are other activities in which one can partake in the Kruger.

A series of guided wilderness walking trails that take a maximum of 8 people at a time, aged between 12 and 60, are available. They tend to be over a few days, are guided by armed rangers, and include accommodation and food. These include Bushman Trail, Metsimietsi Trail, Napi Trail, Olifants Trail, Sweni Trail and the Wolhuter Trail. On each of them one overnights at a bushveld camp and gets to experience the bush on foot.

Other outdoor things to do within Kruger include:

• mountain bike trails from Olifants Camp
• a 9 hole golf course at Skukuza
• 4X4 adventure trails (four one-day self-driven trails)
• sleepover hides – for the adventurous, these are at Sable Dam Hide near Phalaborwa Gate, and Shipandani Hide at Mopani

Tips for spotting the Big 5

There are those who firmly believe that spotting the Big 5 is simply luck of the draw. But there are a number of things you can do to bring you that much closer to them.

• Use the sightings boards – at the gates and rest camps there are boards that keep daily records of latest animal sightings. These can give you a good indication of the areas in which to drive if you haven't yet spotted a lion or leopard. The downside is that the boards are available to anyone to update, so you are not always sure that the information is valid
• rise with the birds – the best time to spot game is as the camp gates open in the morning as animals are more active
• hide out at waterholes – particularly at midday or sundown, waterholes are guaranteed to receive a visit at some stage of the day, as animals need water
• winter is best – the driest time of the year is best to spot game as they're more active and the bush is not as lush as it gets in summer
• go on night drives
• buy a copy of Andy and Lorrain Tinker's Kruger National Park Guide – awesome guidelines, hot spots, maps and photos

The Limpopo National Park

One can travel from Kruger straight into the Limpopo National Park via the gate at Giriyondo, which acts as a border post. You will need a 4X4 vehicle to do this journey as the road deteriorates after a couple of hours from Giriyondo Gate en route to Massingir Gate.

Together with the Kruger and Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe, the Limpopo National Park forms the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park.

The Limpopo National Park is well worth a visit. It is still in the initial stages of development and whilst there are not a lot of camps, there is an overlander site with space for 10 camper vans, 20 individual campsites, 13 chalets and a luxury tented camp. They are all self-catering.

Kruger National Park Links

• Kruger National Park
• Kruger Park Hotels
• Kruger Park Accommodation
• Mpumalanga Accommodation

Southern Kruger

The southern region of the Kruger National Park lies between the Crocodile River to the south, the Sabie in the north and, in the east, the Lebombo Mountains. Nothing quite prepares you for the park's impact, the trees and hills an unexpected flavour to the picture I had of the bushveld as, well, flat (despite having gone to the Kruger as a child).

The southern region gets more rain during the year which translates into more game, shaded by the presence of the Cape chestnut, coral tree, lavender fever berry, and white pear.

This part is where one goes if the white rhino is high on your list of priorities. But it is also popular because it is more accessible for weekend trips from Nelspruit, Hoedspruit, White River etc. School holidays are thus something of a 'mare', making the south more people-dense than the northerly parts of the Kruger park.

Not to be deterred, we decided to go anyway. We also left our booking until a few weeks before visiting the park, and still managed to bag a bungalow in three of the southern Kruger rest camps (only possible because we were flexible). If you're after the river-side cottages at Skukuza, for instance, (definitely the best spot in the camp) you'd do well to book about a year in advance.

Quick overview of the southern rest camps in Kruger:

Berg-en-Dal – southernmost camp in amongst hills, great for rhinos, wild dog,  and lion
Crocodile Bridge – weeny camp virtually at entrance, not bad for wild dog and cheetah
Skukuza – busy, popular and large camp on the Sabie River, great for birds, leopard, hyena, caracal, wild cat and hippo
Lower Sabie – large camp also on Sabie River, good for birds and general game
Pretoriuskop – one of the oldest camps and quieter, great for antelope, birds, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino

I soon learnt, after the first night, not to expect B&B standards from Kruger's rest camps. They are great for their position and access to game. They are not hotels and one should not expect hotel standards, despite the prices. Don't rely on the shops and restaurants for food either. They are average and really expensive. What you get for your money is clean linen, access to facilities and a place to lay your head.

Our first two hours in the park were undoubtedly our best. Entering via the gate at Malelane fairly late in the morning (not regarded as a good time for spotting game), we saw two herds of elephant right up on the road in succession, buffalo (again on the road), and rhino all within a couple of circular loops close to the gate, as our first night was Berg-en-Dal.

Right at the gate were a couple of waterbuck and a gazillion crocs, all so sun-soaked that the proximity of healthy looking buck obviously did not tantalise. Nevertheless, we remained on the bridge for a while to see if there would be any action.

The rhino we saw was admittedly out of the corner of my eye. We were obviously the last straw in a series of unnerving events for the chap who literally saw red when our borrowed silver Fortuna ambled by. I had time to say 'put foot'!before he flattened us, or at least that was how it looked to me. Not even when we plucked up the courage to backtrack slowly could we see him though. I'm still having trouble convincing my family there was a rhino at all...

Photographs — Left: Berg-en-Dal / Right: Berg-en-Dal Dam

First night – Berg-en-Dal

Berg-en-Dal is probably the prettiest camp of the three. Despite the fact that one of the hot plates on our two-plate stove did not work, and any attempt to use the toaster meant that we lost our connection to electricity completely, the thatched, brick bungalows are quiet and cleverly designed so that a bathroom, kitchen and bedroom easily fit. Private verandas and a braai area finish it off. Set in amongst the trees the camp lies on the bank of the Matjulu Spruit in amongst a series of hills with a dam on the border of the camp, at which you can sit and watch the odd bird or buck come to drink. We stayed in a bungalow but there is also a campsite, family cottages and a couple of guesthouses.

You get: crockery, cutlery, linen, hotplate, toaster, kettle and fridge
Our verdict: quaint, pretty, quiet, the best of the lot, but needs a bit of TLC

Photographs — Left: Skukuza / Right: Bungalow at Skukuza bungalow with kitchen

Second night — Skukuza

Skukuza buzzes. It is busy at whatever time of year mainly because it is the administrative headquarters of the Kruger, but also because it is large. Accommodation varies from lovely chalets downriver from the shop and restaurant on the banks of the Sabie, to two-and-three-bed bungalows with en suite bathrooms, but minus a kitchen (these are communal and outside), which does make a long-term stay here rather uncomfortable, but it's fine for overnight (if you do not mind having to re-wash all your crockery and cutlery because the people before you obviously left at dawn and must have used the hand basin as a washing alternative – minus soap). There are also safari tents and a campsite. The highlight of Skukuza is the waterside/restaurant area under a canopy of trees, the views over the river, and the access to game. Wildlife at Skukuza is probably of the best. Hippo are both audible and visible, particularly at night but also during the day when we were there (June), which I found surprising.

What you get in a bungalow: crockery, cutlery, a fridge, 2/3 beds, linen
Our verdict: escaping the hordes is difficult, definitely worth booking ahead of time to nab one of the riverside chalets (big enough to share amongst a couple of families), not sure that I'd stay in the bungalows again, and watch out for monkeys in the camp

Photographs — Left: Lower Sabie bungalows / Right: Tents at Lower Sabie

Third night – Lower Sabie

One of the most popular camps in Kruger. We arrived earlier than anticipated and took a walk around their obviously newer tented safari style accommodation and tried to do a swop. This part of Lower Sabie lies on the opposite side of the rather snazy, raised restaurant area on the banks of the Sabie, to the older bungalows and campsite. It looks lovely and a wonderful way to stay in Kruger. Our bungalow, when we finally got the keys (you can't book in much before 2pm) was a lot better than anticipated. We ended up in a 3-bed bungalow with a sizeable bathroom and kitchenette. Like Skukuza, there are wonderful trees and a grassy area that leads down to the Sabie River. If you avoid the humming restaurant and are far enough from the campsite, your visit is calm and peaceful.

What you get in a bungalow: crockery, cutlery, linen, hotplate, toaster, kettle and fridge
Our verdict: restaurant area has beautiful views over the river though very busy, try and stay in riverside chalets or tented safari tents

Hotspots for viewing game in the southern Kruger:

• Lake Panic hide, on the H11 to Skukuza from Paul Kruger Gate
• Mlondozi Dam hide on the S29 near Lower Sabie
• Mathekenyane 'Granokop' 10km from Skukuza on the H1-1
• Renosterpan on H-3 from Malelane Gate to Traders Rest (takeaway shop en route)
• Nyamundwa Dam between Phabeni Gate and Skukuza on S1
• Sunset Dam outside Lower Sabie on H4-1

Tips:

• A must-buy: Andy and Lorrain Tinker's Kruger National Park Guide and Map, available from most of the shops in the rest camps
• Remember that the speed limit is 50 km/hour and covering the distance between camps takes longer than you think
• Drive slowly to spot game, and do shorter drives with stops at dams, hides and rest camps
• Andy and Lorrain Tinker recommend the following route in southern Kruger: from Skukuza to Berg-en-Dal, Crocodile Bridge, lower Sabie and back
• When busy, stick to the dirt roads, most people tend to drive the tar roads

Kruger Park Links

• Kruger National Park
• Kruger Park Hotels
• Kruger Park Accommodation
• Mpumalanga Accommodation

Boondocks Labyrinth

Stuart and I get off on the wrong foot with one another. It doesn't help that I hear incorrectly when he introduces himself, and proceed to call him by the wrong name until he graciously corrects me when I finally shake his hand at the gate.

He bears this inadvertent discourtesy without criticism, gracefully in fact. As he does my challenging tone (I'm a little stressed and Stuart gets the brunt of it. Would it make me look a little better if I added that I don't like talking on cell phones?).

I later laugh at Stuart's account of what it takes to hold a telephone conversation up on the hill at Boondocks. It is nothing short of undignified and involves placing one's head virtually inside a pot plant with one's derrière exposed – cell phone reception is virtually non-existent, except at the site of the plant and intermittently on the edge of the escarpment. And Telkom refuse to bring in a line all this way. Not having any telecommunication or internet access forms a large part of the charm of Boondocks.

I begin to understand Stuart's initial hesitancy when chatting to me when he meets us at the gate to his property. Getting to the lodge is a good fifteen minute drive over rough terrain and through incredible bushveld, all part of a larger game reserve formed by a number of like-minded neighbours who have brought down their fences for the sake of preservation (one of them includes a former hunter). A visit to Boondocks is not as simple as arriving and ringing the front doorbell. Obviously.

Boondocks is a sanctuary for the soul. There is no other fitting description for the space that lies perched overlooking the valley below. An unspoilt piece of heaven. “A lot of the visitors through here experience something profound”, admits Stuart, “relationships break up, people change their lives forever, or start doing completely new things with their lives.” One thing is certain: you won't leave here unaffected. There is something about the place.

“Not everyone arrives here,” continues Stuart thoughtfully, “some get lost en route, others change their minds, those that do are meant to be here, and I can usually sense on the phone which ones will arrive.” Obviously we're meant to be here, which is rather heartening after my rude behaviour earlier. After meeting Stuart's wife, Ann, and a recurrent visitor from Johannesburg who comes so often she is enough part of the household to make us tea, and Scout the Rhodesian ridgeback, we are invited to explore.

The gardens are spectacular. Beautiful and artistic water pools lie in strategic niches on the grounds shrouded by palms, ferns and other plants that bend towards the water longingly. Boondocks has been lovingly crafted as a retreat centre. Workshops for groups are commonplace here and the naturally healing environment works on one even without a constructive workshop. There are beautiful, private ensuite rooms, their sliding doors open to the garden, their bathrooms handcrafted. I find myself wishing I had a spare month...(or two).

There is an open air shower perched on the edge of the valley, secluded spots in the garden for meditation, and water finds its way effortlessly from a spring three kilometres higher up the mountain via gravity to a tank that overflows and feeds all the various water features that play a big part in the restorative atmosphere at Boondocks. Boondocks is solar powered as like Telkom, Eskom have not set up a supply to the mountain.

We begin to move out of the gardens, heading down the slope away from the lodge towards the dam. We're in search of the labyrinth that Stuart built with his own hands from stone, based on the Chartres Cathedral in France. Stuart laughingly sends us on our way, “there has only been one person who got lost trying to find the labyrinth,” he says, “just follow the path around the dam.”

This duly done, we are mesmerised by the views from Boondocks across the valley to the mountains beyond. We find ourselves at a little stone circle Stuart has designed, below it a series of pools. But no labyrinth. The sun has made an appearance and we're not dressed for the heat. I admit defeat and head back up on my own to confess, somewhat shamefaced, that I'm the second person not to find it.

I've been battling demons all day. Their presence has soured my visit and in no small way prevented me from finding the labyrinth. I feel much like the weather, sunshine overlayed in gray clouds. And I am only too conscious that Stuart is alert to this. I feel put on the spot, but he simply removes the pipe from his mouth and sends Scout and his visitor down with me to find the labyrinth on the other side from where we have looked. I feel rather like Alice.

It's glorious, when I find it. It lies in under the trees, perfect for contemplation and secluded time spend in reflection. Yes, it is based on the Chartres, but what makes it unique is the slight twist in the tale, for Stuart has built around the trees and, as a result, the path is adapted, hence every now and again there is a beautiful bend that wasn't in the original and a curve cradles a tree, allowing it to remain.

It is not a labyrinth the way that some people understand it to be. Often one has it confused with a maze in which one can get lost and arrive at dead ends before finding the centre. A labyrinth, by comparison, is unicursal, a path you follow in a one-way direction until you arrive at the centre, or heart. From there you wind your way out, returning on the exact path that is, for the very reason that you are exiting and no longer entering, a completely different experience.

The metaphors are thus many. The path is never the same on a journey as it is on the return, the path is unknown and a literary metaphor for finding oneself amidst life's agitation and complexity, the labyrinth is as much a journey within, it is a commune both with ourselves and the environment in which we stand, and this environment in particular holds its breath with me as I stand in stillness. As I know it will be shattered the minute the others catch up with me.

I don't walk the labyrinth. This is not the space or the time to do it. I will return one day to explore the presence this labyrinth has to offer me.

Stuart and Ann give us tea on their wide veranda. They talk about how they discovered Boondocks, or it discovered them – they're both originally from the UK. Stuart feels he was directed to build the labyrinth right where it stands today. When you build something with your own hands it is immensely satisfying, I can see that. Our conversation is interesting, the space in which we sit, quite beautiful.

We leave Boondocks, enriched for the visit, but with a sense of incompleteness. I have this uncanny feeling that I will return one day, to walk the labyrinth.

Where to find it:

Address: Boondocks is 4.3 kms from Kaapmuiden on the N4 between Nelspruit and Malelane, Mpumalanga.
Telephone: +27 (0)82 808‑2733
Opening Hours: By appointment only

Useful Links:

• Wild Frontier Attractions
• Things to Do in Mpumalanga
• Wild Frontier Accommodation
• Mpumalanga Accommodation
• South Africa Accommodation

Mabusa's Painted Mountain

“You can't miss them,” Stuart instructs as we leave Boondocks, “head off that way, go past the whatsit, down a slight dip and they're on your left”. Stuart is busy giving us last minute directions to find Nukain Mabusa's flower garden, advertised on most of the local tourist information we pick up as worth a look-see.

We zoot off along the R38, Kaapmuiden behind us, Barberton ahead of us. I'm looking out for a garden. My better half, who as usual has done a bit of homework, is looking out for a series of painted rocks. Neither of us is quite prepared for the non-event of the stone garden.

Drive too fast and you will pass them by without a backward glance. Nowhere is there a road sign to prepare you – local tourism obviously, despite using the designs as a branding tool, hasn't deemed them worthy of any type of formal roadside marketing.

The stones, most of which, I would guess, have weathered somewhat from the constant sun, wind and rain that assaults them, are actually remarkably camouflaged, despite fanning up the greater part of the hillside.

I later learn that the rocks have indeed been left to languish. And it is only through the work of a few local lads — Mike Dehrmann from Working for Water, his grandson Greg, and Vernon Paul, who owns Satico Sawmill — who together have pledged to adopt and restore the 'garden' that it will endeavour, despite being regarded as an international icon.

A few months before we arrive at the scene the site of the stones was a lot worse. You could apparently barely see the rocks for the height of the grass. They began by cutting it back with a bushcutter, and it took five days to clear.

The rocks lie in a part of the Lowveld known as Revolver Creek. After passing Esperado and Louisville a little later on we decide everything around here is coloured by the type of language you would expect in a Western movie. There is a village just across the road from the stones. We hear music pumping in the background, and people mill about behind a bamboo screen.

We tumble out of the car, my son to climb and scramble, and the rest of us to get up close to the rocks. “Where are the flowers?” I ask in all innocence until I realise that the title describes the garden of rocks.

Nukain Mabusa's garden has stood here for nigh on thirty years. It is world famous rock art, featuring in John Maizel's book Raw Creation and in numerous exhibitions.

His work is recognised as an important example of South African Outsider Art, described by Maizel as synonymous with Art Brut (raw art) which is 'uncooked' or 'unadulterated' by culture, and raw because it is in its most direct and uninhibited form. The other South African example is Helen Martins' Owl House in Nieu Bethesda in the Karoo. She at least has a museum to protect her work.

My son doesn't need an explanation of Outsider Art. It describes artists who exist outside of established culture and society, which at times, I muse, also sometimes describes his antics and complete lack of inhibition. He totally identifies with the idea of painting rocks and assembling them on a hillside. They are not strange to him.

He doesn't even ask how the stones got here. They remain for him, an obstacle course designed exclusively for his discovery and treats them the way, I think, Mabusa would have enjoyed. That they are painted in different colours and designs only adds to the experience.

If you consider that this is one of only 44 environmental art works world wide, we're actually standing in an art gallery, viewing work highly considered by those who recognise an artist who, despite having no formal artistic training, was nonetheless inspired to create this personalised space. He landscaped his art in much the same way a landscape artist applies paint to canvas.

There is something beautiful about the arrangement of geometrically painted rocks. As I begin to photograph them, his 'garden of flowers' comes to life.

The works were a tourist attraction during Nukain Mabusa's life, despite the fact that he was not recognised as an artist. That came after his death. He lies in a grave identifiable only by a reference number, in the cemetery in Barberton. The story reminds me a little of Mozart's unmarked grave. Does brilliance fit hand-in-glove with poverty?

And the man behind the stones? Called the 'Crazy Man' by locals, Nukain Mabusa came from southern Mozambique, just across the border from here, from whence he fled during the civil war after his wife and child had died. He moved to Revolver Creek where he worked as a farm labourer in exchange for using the land on which he painted his stones.

An article by Pat Hopkins, who met the artist before his death, gives me a far better account than any other formally written biography, for not much is known about Mabusa. Whilst alive, Mabusa used to live in a two-hut homestead alongside the rocks. The rondavels were also painted with yellow, black and white circles and squares, apparently inspired by chevrons and traffic signs.

Inside the huts his walls were covered in similar. Whilst on the walls hung the odd newspaper clipping about his work. Outside, every rock surface available on the mountainside has been painted in his signature patterns – red, blue, gold animal motifs and geometric patterns. At the very top is a large black and white striped boulder that resembles the haunch of a zebra.

But why a 'garden of flowers'?

Mabusa apparently described how if you stood at the crest of the mountain, keeping the stones aligned with a similar zebra haunch down near his home, the rocks look like flowers tumbling from heaven. The two rocks he described as his 'altars' – one on earth and the other in heaven – separated, yet linked.

His garden, Pat tells, was Mabusa's preparation for Judgement Day and he described his own garden as the 'most beautiful garden in the universe'.

But there is a sad ending to the story. Mabusa's eccentricity was probably the reason he eventually dug a grave on top of his painted mountain and buried himself alive.

Brilliance might not always go hand-in-hand with poverty, but it does with eccentricity. And his death gave me pause to consider both Mabusa and his rocks in a new light.

Where to find it:

You will find Nukain Mabusa's garden of flowers alongside the R38, 8 kilometres from Kaapmuiden, off the N4 east of Nelspruit.

Useful Links:

• Wild Frontier Attractions
• Things to Do in Mpumalanga
• Wild Frontier Accommodation
• Mpumalanga Accommodation
• South Africa Accommodation

Kaapse Hoop

We round the corner at the top of the plateau, having left Nelspruit behind and below us, and there suddenly in a clearing in amongst a series of rough sandstone rocks, Kaapsche Hoop makes its presence known.

The gorgeous little hamlet lies high enough above the towns of Nelspruit and Barberton to experience a completely different set of weather patterns. Residents will tell you that you can anticipate a difference of at least five degrees.

It's usually a lot cooler up on the mountain, in amidst numerous pine plantations with names like 'Berlin'. Often white blankets of mist swirl in and the wild horses that roam free in and around the town appear like unicorns in a world in which it is no longer bizarre to anticipate faeries; sightings of the endangered blue swallow simply adding to the mythical atmosphere.

There is something distinctly otherwordly about Kaapsche Hoop. It has elements of Pilgrim's Rest, but before all the fuss and bother turned the town into a tourist haven with bus loads of people coming and going. Kaapsche Hoop claims to have been the centre of the gold rush of the 1880s, after Bernard Chomse found gold in the bed of a stream on the plateau that perches between two valleys, each dominated by a river – the Crocodile and the Elands.

Photographs — Left: Tin Chapel / Right: Wild horse en route

The town, in fact, discovered gold even before Johannesburg and directly opposite the plateau, down in the valley that surrounds the town of Barberton, remains one of the richest veins of gold in the country – the Sheba Mine. Originally the town, because of a combination of unusual sandstone rock formations and swirling mists, was known as Duiwel's Kantoor but this changed with the discovery of gold when it became known as the 'hope of the cape' or Kaapse Hoop.

The town was a booming little mining town during the 1880s with close to 5 000 residents. Over the years as interest dwindled — gold ran out — the town slowly died away until it was virtually a ghost town with all of 16 people living there.

Connie and Trevor of Corner Cottage tell me how Trevor stumbled upon the town in the mid 1980s whilst he worked as an engineer at Ngodwana. He suffered a flat tyre whilst out here with his camera, and, in the mist followed the only telephone line he could see into the very house where he and Connie now live. The house was already 99 years old. The town was in dissarray, the Post Office boarded up, and the old hotel virtually the only commercial venture in town.

Photographs — Left: Street lamps / Right: Mining commissioner's house

Whilst awaiting rescue, Trevor was to take photos of the house. Years later, in 2003, he brought Connie out to the town to propose that they move here, for something about the village spoke to him. They were comparing his old photos with the same house whilst standing just outside, when the then owner came to invite them inside, something she later confessed she seldom did.

As with all stories like this one, it just so happened that the owner's husband had recently suffered a heart attack and they needed to sell, even though there was no for 'sale sign' on the door yet. Connie and Trevor expressed an interest in the house. The owners proposed that they sell their house to them, but that they remain on in the house for a further two years.

Connie and Trevor, when I meet them, have spent five years restoring the house carefully, maintaining it exactly as it was initially built. Trevor has lovingly hand made all the wooden panelling, restored doors, window sills and floors, without the temptation to make the tiny house with its pressingly low ceilings any larger. These days the nature of the town has changed enormously. It exists solely for tourism. People stop off here on the way to the Kruger National Park. And a lot of people have bought up homes and turned them into guest houses, restaurants and arts and crafts shops.

Photographs — Left: Two cats follow me ... / Right: Connie & Trevor

The couple are part of a Heritage committee the town has set up to try to conserve the old buildings. In a sense they're trying to protect the town from itself. They're considering registering as an Article 21 company to keep it unique. They're hoping to set up an eco committee and have collected a heap of historical photos of the town from two little old ladies who were raised in the town.

Up at the end of their road where the old Post Office has been completely restored and modernised into a guest house, is Komisaris Plein. The village has raised the money to build a wooden fence around the old, original Mining Commissioner's House (1884) that stands here. The wild horses were rubbing up against the doorways to scratch themselves and slowly the house was disintegrating.

Not everyone agrees with the fence. Inside the old building's clay walls are crumbling, and where they haven't, every inch is defaced with scratched graffitti. Just beyond the old building visitors can escape onto the plateau in amongst the aloes and the incredible rocks of the area. A walk starts from here.

Just opposite Komisaris Plein is the beautiful tin church, perfect for weddings in Mpumalanga – it's not as new as it looks. Many of the houses here conform to the old standard – houses on wooden stilts, made from sheets of tin. Street names have been established for the town and signs now grace the edge of each street. And the group want to provide eco information for those who come to walk the trails that start from the little hut in town, and they want to set up a picnic area.

Photographs — Left: Kommissaris Plein / Right: Anabelle's shop

On the black reef quartzite sandstone rocks to the east of town, behind Komisaris Plein, it's a little chilly. Nonetheless we enjoy our picnic, drink in the views of the surrounding plateau that seems not to end and imagine that a hike would be more than rewarding.

Two cats follow me through town. They're fluffy and friendly and turn up like bad pennies (or is that good) wherever I go.

To look out for when in Kaapsche Hoop:

• Koek 'n Pan (every one stops here to sample the pancakes, they have an ATM)
• the wild horses
• Kaapsehoop horse trails
• Salvador (great pizzas)
• over 200 different bird species
• Blue Swallow Natural Heritage Site
• hiking trails – to the east a walk through sandstone pillars, to the west through forest to a waterfall
• craft shops
• Komisaris Plein
• the derelict jail and magistrate's court at the top of the village
• tours of Adam's Calendar and Kaapsche Hoop (Enos Zulu 072 331 1197)
• the geology of the area, which is said to date between 2 600 million and 3 600 million years ago

Don't expect to find:

• a supermarket
• chain stores
• property agents
• anything open on a Monday

Kaapsche Hoop lies 14 km from Ngodwana and the N4, 28 km from Nelspruit, and rests on an escarpment overlooking the De Kaap Valley and the town of Barberton. Once there, you may never want to leave...

Useful Links

• Kaapsehoop Attractions
• Things to Do in Kaapsehoop
• Nelspruit Accommodation
• Nelspruit Hotels
• Mpumalanga Hotels

And with just over two months to garner support for Table Mountain, the Vote for Table Mountain supporting committee is proud to welcome South Africa’s most famous faces to the list of ambassadors calling on all South Africans to vote.

At the opening of the Table Mountain National Park in 1998, Former president Nelson Mandela said: “During the many years of incarceration on Robben Island we often looked across Table Bay at the magnificent silhouette of Table Mountain. To us on Robben Island, Table Mountain was a beacon of hope. It represented the mainland to which we knew we would one day return.

“To the people of South Africa, the Table Mountain Range represents a great deal more than the rocky remains of millennia of sediment. It is of immense ecological, cultural, religious and economic significance not only to the Western Cape Region, but also to the rest of the country.”

Table Mountain is the only contesting site in a country with three living Nobel Peace Prize winners who are supporting its cause. The Vote for Table Mountain campaign now has three iconic South Africans, who have played a significant role in the restoration and growth of our rainbow nation, promoting the success of our beautiful mountain.

FW de Klerk, who received the Nobel Peace Prize in 1993 along with Nelson Mandela said: “Table Mountain is the defining visual icon of Cape Town and South Africa.  It has been the backdrop to the unfolding of South African history. Its imposing stature makes one forget that Table Mountain has more plant species than all of the United Kingdom, hence its declared status as a World Heritage Site.

“But Table Mountain does not belong only to the Western Cape. As a National Park it belongs to all of us in this country. As a World Heritage site, it belongs to the International Community. Elections seldom unite a country. Occasions do. Last year the soccer world cup united us as a country. Soon the rugby world cup will unite us behind our Springbok team. But now we have an election that can unite us again. Vote for Table Mountain as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. I just did. Your turn now.”

Table Mountain is South Africa’s only candidate in the running to be named one of the Official New7Wonders of Nature, with voting closing on 11 November 2011.

“I really can understand how, when God created all that there is he said, ‘I think I’ve got to do something special here’. And so God produced this fantastic gateway in the South – Table Mountain — our mountain, what a wonder! Help us take our rightful place among the New 7 Wonders of Nature,” says Arch Bishop Desmond Tutu.

How to Vote:

Vote for Table Mountain SMS “Table” to 34874 at R2 an SMS, or ...
Visit www.votefortablemountain.com, or ...
Vote via Mxit for only 20 cents.
(If you vote via SMS or Mxit, you can vote as many times as you like!)

Useful Links

• Table Mountain
• Table Mountain Photographs
• Table Mountain National Park
• Cape Town Accommodation

Adam's Calendar

“Oh, sorry, no we don't organise tours to Adam's Calendar”, the rather disheveled youth who seems to be managing Koek 'n Pan single handedly through an unanticipated brunch rush, tells me.

I good naturedly fail to mention that I've already taken the trouble to fill out the form he thrust in my hands earlier, when I broached a tour to the stones. I'm beginning to wonder if Adam's Calendar is deliberately ellusive and difficult to find for visitors. Perhaps it's fitting that the stones, shrouded in mystery, remain that way ...

There is a book lying on the table in front of me called 'Adam's Calendar', written by Johan Heine (who 'found' the stones in 2003) and Michael Tellinger. I pick it up and leaf through it. It is filled with beautiful photographs of the dolomite stones. I find I am excited about seeing them.

“Adam's Calendar is built along the same longitudinal line as Great Zimbabwe and the Great Pyramid. It is also aligned with the rise of Orion's belt when it rose horizontally on the horizon some 75 000 years ago.” I read.

Pictures taken from the air seem to clearly indicate how the ancient stones could have formed a circle. Is it possible, as the authors allege, that these are the only example of a functional, mostly in-tact, monolithic stone calendar in the world?

The fact that Michael Tellinger has also authored the rather controversial 'Slave Species of god' that claims human beings are a species created by the Anunnaki, a superior species from a planet called Nibiru, who use us as slaves to obtain gold on a regular basis (all based on translations of Sumerian cuneiform tablets by Zecharia Sitchin), does leave me more than a little sceptical, and wary about the authenticity of the stones.

The Koek 'n Pan guy hands me a cell phone number which we duly dial, only to find that Dr Steven Evans no longer does tours from Kaapsche Hoop to the famous stone calendar, said to be older than 75 000 years and the oldest man-made structure on Earth. That's older than the pyramids at Giza and the Stonehenge, to put them in perspective.

All hope is not lost, as he gives us the number of Enos Zulu who he assures us will take us on a tour. Enos answers after only a couple of rings. He initially wants to add us to a group he's taking the following morning, but we're really keen on seeing the stones today so press him.

Photographs — Left: Enos Zulu / Right: 3 Stones with "the workshop" in the background

He's just down the road, he assures us, and will begin walking, if we're prepared to pick him up. He's renting a room from someone in the little forestry settlement of Berlin, and off we head down the sand road past a few of the wild horses. We later learn from Enos that they've tried keeping tabs on the horses. At last count there were at least 150 of them, but they can't be sure.

Enos is indeed wearing the unmissable red and black jacket he described, but we meet at a fork in the road and manage to slip past him. It is only his piercing whistle that alerts me. He is easily likeable, affable, well-spoken and a font of knowledge.

He has the key to the gate that will allow us onto the Blue Swallow National Heritage Site, where you will find Adam's Calendar. Enos is also one of the local bird guides for the heritage site, which is how he started out in the business. Known affectionately as Adam's Calendar, the standing stones are called the Johan Heine Stone Calendar. They have been dated by astronomer Bill Hollenbach to between 25 000 and 150 000 years old.

The authors (Michael Tellinger lives just around the corner in Waterval Boven and also gives tours of the stones, if you're prepared to fork out quite a hefty fee) place the date closer to around 75 000 years, which they base on the movement of people in southern Africa at that time. But it could, they state, be even older.

Photographs — Left: The stones / Right: Two little boys meet at the stones!

Enos spends over an hour and a half taking a group of us (another couple and their children have joined us) through the stones. He explains how the stones probably came from a source of dolomite roughly two kilometres from the site. This is based on a geology report that indicates the rocks were moved here and worked with human hands.

He points out what the authors consider 'The Workshop', a scattering of loose dolomite stones that could be the remains, particularly as there appear to be chiselling grooves in evidence, of where the stones were worked.

He walks us to 'the Stone Altar', indicates the pathway hewn in the grass from the altar to Adam's Calendar that Credo Mutwa (and many other sangomas and shamans) has confirmed was used as a path of initiation. Enos points to the Barberton valley below and indicates the meteor impact crater and the two pyramid-shaped hills (the third is buried) that the authors postulate are pyramids, and there do seem to be two connical shapes that do not seem to fit into the rest of the natural hillside.

All of this, Enos alludes, ties into the Anunnaki/Sumerian history of the deep Abzu and gold mining. It is difficult to follow his train of thought. Much of his talk he has learnt at the knee of Michael Tellinger, and he admits that a tour with Michael would make it all that much clearer. Standing out here with only the stones for company, it isn't hard to believe most of what Enos is saying, no matter how tenuous the claim.

Could this African Stonehenge, Adam's Calendar, be the special place of observation built by Enki 260 000 years ago in the deep Abzu (South Africa) described in Sumerian tablets? Michael Tellinger certainly seems to think so.

There is something distinctly mystical about the stones. Call it an energy or a sense of the sacred. One cannot but be awed by the stones, their presence and the incredible scenery around here.

Now within the circle of rocks with the late afternoon sun leaving long shadows on the ground ahead of us, Enos explains where the stone man he showed us upon entering the gate of the heritage site, the stone that had been moved from the circle, would originally have stood – here at the western mark where the sun always rises just above the middle rock.

One would have entered the stone circle from the southern edge, the north being the direction of the sky where our creators were believed to have come from. He indicates the summer solstice line and the equinox line, and then finally the third line, that of the winter solstice.

I'm mesmerised by the circle.

The authors, Johan Heine and Michael Tellinger, have recently released another book about Adam's Calendar entitled Temples of the African Gods, which goes a step further. They link the entire valley, filled with stone circles and ancient roads, to Enki's Calendar, and the dawn of humanity.

Whatever your take on the claims by the authors, Adam's Calendar forms a beautiful space on the plateau alongside the town of Kaapsche Hoop, overlooking the Barberton Valley, a peaceful space filled with open sky, incredible views and the spiritual atmosphere of ancient standing stones.

Contact Details:

Enos Zulu gives tours on the history of Kaapsche Hoop, local birds, and Adam's Calendar. You can contact him on 072 331 1197.

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Lowveld Botanical Garden

Nelspruit's Lowveld Botanical Garden is where I not only lose, but find my hat. Having dropped it somewhere on the pathways through their incredible African rainforest where my mesmerised self lost track of both time, and my hair covering. I was to have it restored to me by one of the entrance attendants who carefully placed it to one side to wait for my return visit, which obviously I was then destined to make.

The Lowveld Botanical Garden lies amidst sprawling strip malls and the Tsogo Sun Casinos in the heart of the 'new' part of town that is given over principally to automobile show rooms. It's rather an obscure place for a slice of nature, and for this reason so necessary, and only fifteen minutes' drive from where we stayed in the suburb of West Acres.

For those who know of the garden's existence (because for a school holiday it was surprisingly empty), it's a little piece of paradise in amongst the hum of the city. Fortunately, the presence of roaring waterfalls puts paid to any traffic noise and one easily 'escapes', as it were, into the beauty of the garden.

The garden's proximity to Tsoga seems to have paid off. They're chiefly responsible for the incredible wooden walkways, visitors' centre, restaurant, and indigenous plant nursery in the form of a generous sponsorship, together with grants from Environmental Affairs and Tourism.

Now the Lowveld Botanical Society is looking for sponsors for a new children's section in the garden in which they plan a theme garden, a maze and play areas, an outdoor classroom and artwork to decorate the space.

The main entrance to the garden has been revamped since 2004. The Lowveld Botanical Garden is no longer the garden of people's youth. A modern thatched entrance opens onto a totally unique water feature – the first of its kind in the world – made from verdite, the oldest known rock in the world that occurs in the hills of Mpumalanga. The water feature has been donated to the garden by Little Barn Craft. Each tile of the rock has been hand-cut and carved – it's gorgeous. Little Barn Craft must be inundated with requests for similar – I know I'd love one.

Beyond the entrance, where there is also a restaurant that serves incredible carrot cake, the Lowveld Botanical Garden is something of a surprise. I'd read all the literature, which had prepared me for the two rivers that run through the reserve (the Crocodile and Nels Rivers), the size of the garden (which had me visualising lots of green lawn), and the suggestion of steep slopes on the Crocodile River. I'd even read the bit about the rainforest, but nothing prepared me for the reality thereof.

The simulated tropical African rainforest is an event in itself. Absolutely incredible, it graces the eastern bank of the Crocodile River, riddled with wooden walkways that allow one to walk in silence, in amongst the trees. Once a day, early in the morning, you might have to dodge a massive overhead stream of water that is the garden's answer to the rain that should fall over the forest below. If anything, it adds to the novelty of the space.

A rather impressive suspended metal bridge takes you across the Crocodile River away from the sweeping vistas of the waterfall — and the typical Lowveld type scenery that has one scouting around in amongst the krantz aloes in an attempt to sight the five-lined rainbow skink, often out sunning, but rather elusive nonetheless – to the rainforest.

Suddenly one is transported into another world completely. The aerial boardwalk, sponsored by Sappi, allows one access to sights and sounds to which one is not usually privy. Looking upwards one can quite clearly see plants growing on plants, known as epiphytes, of which the rainforest is full.

Tangled trees stand in amongst typical rainforest ferns, moss covered steps take over from the aerial boardwalk and lead you into little nooks and crannies where there are benches for minutes of contemplation, and burbling water in little ponds. The light in here in the late afternoons is indescribably beautiful and plays delightfully on the tips of large fronds and palms.

The garden has cleverly simulated the forest by planting pioneer trees as quick-growers to provide the initial protective canopy, allowing the true forest to emerge underneath. Growing rapidly, once the big slow-growing emergent layer trees have grown, these pioneers naturally die.

Below these layers are the understory layer, where little sunshine reaches and plants need larger leaves, and then the forest floor, where it is dark and damp and things decay fast, rich in bugs that make compost from fallen leaves and other debris in record time.

It is sobering when standing in one to realise that rain forests are cleared at 40 hectares per minute. It take about 1000 years for them to re-colonise devastated area. And that coffee, chocolate, cola nuts and yams all grow in Africa's rain forests. In fact, Africa is the home of coffee. Though more of it now grows in Brazil, coffee arabica bushes grow naturally in the forests north of here.

From the forest one emerges into the rest of the garden, which looks more in keeping with the 'garden' that I initially had in mind – cycads, aloes, ponds filled with water lillies, and indigenous trees — like the sausage and candelabra tree.

And there is a delightful Riverside Trail, which says it takes an hour to do, but which one can easily do faster. Winding through indigenous bush and riverine forest, the trail takes you along the banks of the Crocodile river, with many places to stop and simply drink in the view of water pools, flat rocks and little cascades, until you reach the falls of the Nels River at the far end of the garden.

The threat of Bilharzia puts paid to any thought of water play for children, but nonetheless, it is a wonderful walk to do, and probably necessitates a second visit, for the forest will already have taken up a great deal of your time.

And my hat. I return the following day alone, to collect it, obviously, but also for the chance to re-walk the boardwalks of the forest and to contemplate the destruction we wreak on rain forests elsewhere in the world. Once you've walked this forest you are left with only one question: can we afford to do so?

Address: Off White River Road, Nelspruit, Mpumalanga.
Telephone: +27 (0)13 752‑5531
Opening Hours: September to March: 08h00-18h00; April to August: 08h00-17h00

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Nan Hua Buddhist Temple

A visit to Nan Hua Buddhist Temple in Bronkhorstspruit — There is no greater peace than contentment. The best reward in life is peace, something that cannot be given to us by the Buddha or any God. We need to create the conditions and environment for peace within ourselves.  The key to peace is contentment.   (Ven. Master Hsing Yun)

I'm standing in the vast reception area of the Nan Hua (flower in the south) Buddhist Temple reading various meaningful passages by the Master Hsing Yun, the founder of the Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Order ...

The temple, which is actually a village that takes up an entire suburb — give or take a few houses built by those who don't mind sharing their neighbourhood with Buddhist monks and daily Buddhist comings and goings — makes one feel as if one has flown into historical China, apart from the surrounding landscape that is a typical highveld winter, the brown grass a tribute to lack of rain.

One is immediately stilled by the atmosphere in the temple. It seems to work a kind of magic. A friend of mine would say this was because the building was filled with sattva, a Sanskrit word, which in its barest form means 'luminosity' but refers to a certain clarity, serenity and harmonious balance that occurs in mind and attitude.

Whatever it is, I am content to spend time here in the silence. Only in reception are there murmurs as people come and go past the little shop that sells various Chinese Buddhist trinkets and curios to which my son is immediately drawn, as his grandmother has given him R20 to spend. Rather a Buddhist temple than a sweet shop.

Through the doors on the other side of a quadrangle comes Buddhist chanting. There is a meditation in full swing in the Kuan Yin Shrine (the Great Compassion Shrine), and a series of shoes are lined up outside. I itch to take photographs, but Sipho in reception has only given me permission to take photographs in certain areas of the temple. Inside are roughly twelve or so Chinese Buddhists kneeling whilst they chant. It's an interesting sound and I sit awhile, even though it is cold, to listen.

In 1992 the City Council of Bronkhorstspruit donated six hectares of land to the Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Order. The Venerable Master Hsing Yun sent one of his long –term disciples, the Venerable Master Hui Li, to build this Chinese Buddhist, cultural and educational complex.

The order follows a humanistic approach, which means that the village actively promotes Buddhism through education, culture, charity, and purifying human hearts and minds through practice. They have a strong global perspective, in other words, and have over 16 Buddhist colleges and 190 branch temples across the globe, three universities and numerous schools.

The Nan Hua Temple's charitable projects includes winter donations of hot lunches at schools, computer donations, and wheelchairs. They also supply vegetables to nearby schools on a weekly basis to make sure children have a decent meal.

I head upstairs to the little Pu Hsien Shrine via the dining hall, which is due to feed visitors and monks a vegetarian lunch soon, as it is Sunday, although there is little activity here yet, despite being 10.30. You are encouraged to join the meal time and can give a donation at reception for your food. There is also a tea room just above the reception area, known as the Dew Drop Inn Tea House, where you can sample a variety of exotic teas and coffees. I'm a little intimidated by the quiet and the spoken Chinese, and decide that my coffee cravings will have to wait.

I'm amazed by the ornateness of the little shrine. The shrine to Samantabhadra is the Bodhisattva of Great Strength, whilst the six tusked elephant is a symbol of the six Paramitas – charity, morality, patience, effort, meditation and wisdom. The room is icy, particularly as I've taken off my boots as is the practice, and am wandering around the shrine in only my socks.

All around the room there are little carved wooden rupas, there must be at least 1000 of them recessed into the walls and I'm amazed at how much work has gone into creating the room. They represent Quan Yin, a female deity.

Downstairs the chanting has stopped. We head over to the main shrine, across the traffic circle through which an ADT vehicle comes obscurely roaring, its lights flashing. Just where it is off to is unclear as there is very obviously no disharmony this side of the cultural village.

The main shrine is incredible. It is regarded as the most important building in the village and is also called the Great Hero Hall. Even the steps leading up to the hall have significance, to remind visitors of our aim to gain enlightenment (it isn't something you can be given). The hall is massive, filled with three very large Buddha statues also referred to as the Triple Gem Buddha (for some reason I find myself thinking of Sol Kerzner around now because of the sheer magnitude of the building).

I'm not allowed to take photos, which is unfortunate, but I probably wouldn't have felt comfortable whipping out a camera whilst faced with three smiling, bowing Chinese Buddhist monks, who can barely speak to me, but make us immediately comfortable and hand us a number of pamphlets in English, describing the temple and the work that takes place here.

To one side of the temple one of the monks is shuffling around in a make-shift kitchen, making tea. It can't be too warm in his robes, despite his fleece, hat and warm socks. Ahead of me in front of the central Buddha, a Chinese couple and their baby, tied to his mother's front in a kangaroo, are busy bowing and praying, sticks of incense in their hands. Later, on returning home, my son was to take out a stick of our incense. 'I know how to pray with this now, mom' he gestured, whilst bowing from his waist.

In the village are some 66 self-catering units, usually used for visiting groups or for the meditation retreats held at various times during the year.

There is yet another temple behind the main temple, but we don't get to it. By the time we've seen the main one, we're all templed out. The centre trains monks as well, most of them local South Africans, and the whole place operates on donations, not all of them financial, given to help spread Buddhist principles in South Africa.

A beautiful space, well worth a visit.

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Day trips from Nelspruit

There is a lot more to Nelspruit, or Mbombela, than its proximity to the Kruger National Park alone. It is true that this qualifies as a major attraction for visitors. That it lies within an hour's drive of the huge national park is a tempting possibility for day trips into the park (and is no doubt the reason why everyone in Nelspruit drives around in an SUV). But there is a lot more to do and see within 80 kilometres of the popular Lowveld city, through which the Crocodile River meanders (and continues to wend its way through much of the surrounding countryside; one seems to cross it a myriad times).

You can now fly all the way into Nelpsruit, although generally it's a lot more expensive than flying to Johannesburg and hiring a car. The city has two airports, one an international airport and the other little more than a landing strip used for non-commercial flights. The weather is excellent all year round, if you're looking for an excuse to visit, even if it gets a little warmer than is comfortable in summer. But just about everything is equipped with air conditioning as a result.

Here follows a selection of things you can look forward to in and around the city:

Lunch and a hike at Kaapsche Hoop

The fairytale village of Kaapsche Hoop lies in the hills directly above Nelspruit, roughly 30 kilometres outside of town along Enos Mabuza Drive. Easy to reach from Nelspruit, it is often shrouded in mist and home to a great many wild horses (no-one knows just how many but on speaking to locals there are at least 150 of them). Extremely popular over weekends for lunches, brunches and teas, the former mining town that began its life just before the discovery of gold in Johannesburg, has converted itself into a perfect weekend getaway for Gautengers and Lowvelders alike. Most of all it is  popular amongst hikers for the trail that starts at the hut in the town and heads off into the Berlin plantation, part of the commercial forestry of the area. The hike is anything from two to five nights divided into several individual trails that can be combined together. Four huts provide overnight sleeping facilities.

The falls around Sabie

Sabie is a quaint forestry town that lies in the shadow of Spitskop and Mount Anderson, its main road lined with at least 20 restaurants that include the Smokey Train Diner in an abandoned railway coach. Along the south bank of the Sabie River lie a series of three waterfalls close to the town (there are a myriad more a little further afield, if you have the time but these are easiest if time is an issue) – Bridal Veil Falls, Lone Creek Waterfall and Horseshoe Falls. You can reach the fall via one of several sawmills in Sabie, along a rather pot-holed road (take the road past Merry Pebbles resort, it's well sign-posted). Day walks around Sabie include the Forest Falls Nature Walk, which takes one to the Forest Falls (the only waterfall that is wider than it is high), the Loerie Trail, the Secretary Bird Walk, which finishes at Mac Mac Pools, and the Misty Mountain Trails. (See Sabie Accommodation to stay in the town).

Day trip into Kruger

The Kruger National Park, if you have a Wild Card, is easy to do as a number of day trips, Nelspruit is so close. But it is easier done as a long weekend or a three to four day stay (Kruger Park accommodation during school holidays can be an issue, so if you have left it until the last minute, you can rest easy knowing you can do it as a number of day visits). Some people go to camp at Secunda for weeks at a time – the choice is yours. Best done outside of school holidays, the park is still one of the most spectacular in the world, and game is abundant. Spotting game depends very much on luck and your ability to take the time to try and find it, if you are going to self-drive. Nelspruit gives ideal access to the popular southern region of the Kruger, and the nearest gates are Malelane (south east), Numbi (south west) and the Kruger Gate (slightly north of Numbi and a longer journey as a result). The escape to the bush is a highlight of any trip to the Lowveld. If you are not keen on a self-drive experience there are numerous personalised tours from which to choose.

Heritage Walk in Barberton

Barberton, just 43 kilometres from Nelspruit along a really scenic drive, is the town tourism forgot. The local community has been reticent in coming forward about the town's incredible historical and geological relevance (the mountains around the town are the oldest in the world, dating back 3.5 billion years) but that will all soon change with the imminent release of both the Disney version of Jock of the Bushveld, and the film about Cockney Liz (legendary 'barmaid' who became known as Cockney Liz because of the accent in which she chose to sing, despite her obvious refinement and musical talent. There is a lot more to the story – coming soon). Both of these films will focus much deserved attention on the town, the origin of which was the 1880s gold rush (the Sheba Mine remains one of the richest working gold mines in the world). The Heritage Walk through the centre of town takes in all the relevant history, including South Africa's first stock exchange. Whilst it is a well sign-posted self-guided tour, try to do it with a local guide as you will learn so much more by doing so. (See Barberton accommodation to stay in the town itself).

Sudwala Caves

Whilst the tours of the popular cave tend to be over subscribed and the tour's content more than a little hackneyed, the trip to Sudwala Caves still draws tourists by the thousand and is well worth visiting, if only to see the the oldest known caves in the world, said to have formed 240 million years ago, and the numerous calcium structures that have been given names like the 'Lowveld Rocket', 'Samson's Pillar' and the 'Screaming Monster'. One-hour tours run during the day but what sounds even more worthwhile is the five-hour long Crystal Tour that happens once a month. Aimed at the more 'adventurous' amongst its visitors, it goes a lot deeper into the Mankelekele Mountains and includes a bit of crawling around, until one reaches the outskirts of the crystal chamber.

Interacting with Elephants – Hazyview

Both The Elephant Sanctuary and Elephant Whispers operate just outside Hazyview, roughly 70 kilometres from Nelspruit. Either of these offers you the chance to get up close to elephants and experience their intelligence and compassionate nature one-on-one. Some of the elephants have been rescued from planned culling, all are handled in a gentle and compassionate way, but remain in captivity. (See Hazyview accommodation if you want to stay in Hazyview itself).

Chimp Eden

The Jane Goodall Institute Chimpanzee Eden is a 1000 hectare game reserve just outside of Nelspruit, home to a group of chimpanzees that have been misplaced from their natural habitats in Central Africa. Chimp Eden is a sanctuary for them. The reserve also raises awareness of the need for conservation and about chimps in Africa. Whilst some people stay in the reserve, there are also daily tours that are roughly an hour and a half long, three times a day. Feeding times are at 10am and 2pm.

Panorama and Highlands Routes

Both the Panaorama Route and the Highlands Meander are self-drive routes that take one through particularly scenic areas of Mpumalanga. Essentially they are tourist routes designed to take one via the highlights of the area. The Highlands Meander is  aimed at nature lovers and includes first-rate fly-fishing venues, the chance to spot some of the rarest birds, incredible rock climbing, and access to spectacular wild flowers. It includes the towns of Belfast, Dullstroom, Elands Valley, the Kwena Basin, Lydenburg, Machadodorp, Skurweberg and Waterval Boven and lies in the higher escarpment areas. The Panorama Route, by comparison, offers one the chance to take in the natural wonders of the eastern escarpment of Mpumalanga. It includes God's Window, Blyde River Canyon, Bourke's Luck Potholes, the Three Rondawels, Pilgrim's Rest, Sabie, Lydenburg, White River, Graskop, Ohrigstad, and Hazyview.

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Anvil Ale House

The first indication that Dullstroom is the home of Anvil Ale, a micro brewery that produces artisinal beer exclusively for the town, is the unobtrusive sign, strategically placed at the entrance to the popular weekend town. Admittedly it is at ground level, but it is obvious enough that even I see it, and it indicates that at the other end of the main road is the promise of beer.

South African's love their beer, and seeking out an ale house, particularly when on holiday, is something just about eveyone who sees the sign is wont to do. So the garden of Anvil Ale House, even at half past three in the afternoon, is busy with patrons soaking up what rays of sun there are still to be found on this particularly chilly winter's day.

Anvil Ale House is beautiful. The stone building looks modern, yet also like something out of the south of France or Italy — creeper like growth on the walls and the stone work reminiscent of Europe. I later learn from the proprietor that it has been here some time and that he hand picked it especially for this venture. At the time it was not even on the market. Admittedly he and his wife then spent three years building, which goes some way to explain the modern feel and the brewery attached to the house.

Anvil Ale House is not your average pub. I gingerly approach the main door of the facility, anticipating the rowdy crowd, hunched around the bar, eyes riveted by a big screen television, the sounds that accompany sport and the smoke infested atmosphere sure to have me hightailing it out of there in seconds.

But I couldn't have been more wrong. There isn't a big screen in sight, and inside there is a sophisticated atmosphere that accompanies the average bistro. In a sense, it is, given that there is a wonderful menu available on black boards on the wall, assuring me that if I wanted to, I could partake in smoked trout and scrambled egg, wholesome vegetable soup, trout quiche, toasted pita and then a quick scan down to the bottom reveals boozy cake (more about that later).

Theo de Beer doesn't even appear to see the humour in the obvious correspondence of his name and vocation. My bark of laughter at seeing his business card doesn't elicit any reaction from the little man behind the bar, whose warm and convivial welcome to me, as he draws a draft with a large foamy head for someone, means that I stay to find out more. But then, after thirty years' of brewing history, he is probably immune to his name's association with the very product he brews.

There is something of the modern day gnome about Theo. His pink cheeks, white hair and accompanying beard appear right at home in his brewery. His eyes twinkle merrily behind his glasses, and his incredible ability to swing from English into Afrikaans, and back again, has me guessing as to the origin of his home language. His wife is Afrikaans, also little, but more demure. She manages to balance two pairs of glasses – one on her head, the other on her nose — whilst she hurries back and forth, bringing beer, food and cake to all and sundry.

Despite the busy late-lunch-bordering-on-tea crowd, Theo takes the time to tell the story behind Anvil Ale. He used to run Hops Hollow brewery and guesthouse on the Long Tom Pass, on the Highlands Meander not far from Dullstroom. Tired and in search of something new, they packed, sold up and were on their way to New Zealand when the current recession hit, affecting any plans to leave the country.

The de Beers then took time out. Theo fondly describes it as a gap year, in which they travelled the country to visit all the places they wanted to see, before returning to Dullstroom as their home of choice, this venue specifically. Theo talks about using his past experience to influence this business. He finally has the chance to do it the way he would like to.

The brewery next door, which he later takes me to see, is small, yet it is what is termed a '1000 litre brewery'. In effect, I learn, it produces 800 litres at a time as you need to allow for roughly 200 litres of loss during the process. This is quite normal, he assures me, as when skimming the yeast off the top there is an inevitable loss of ale.

At the moment Theo spends between 19 and 25 days brewing his ale, whereafter he sells the bulk of it from his pub in draft form. The rest is bottled – a litre at a time. The ale house has only been open since April 2010 and there is a sense of excitement and a flush of newness about the place that makes people frequenting the ale house feel as though they have discovered something unique.

Which indeed they have. Theo brings across three tasters for us. He produces a blonde ale, a pale ale and a porter, which he calls his 'girlie ale' as women tend to prefer it. This probably has something to do with the low hop profile and the aftertaste of chocolate on the tongue. The blonde ale he describes as warm and the one most like the lager South Africans know as beer, whilst the pale ale is more fruity, malty in the mouth and bitter when you swallow.

I enjoy all three of them with my other half and five-year old, who gets his first taste of beer. On our way out we get a take away piece of Theo's boozy cake to share. I can't resist after Theo spends a few minutes talking about the way they make it on the premises, where it keeps for two weeks, due to the cake's alcohol content.

They also produce a chocolate rum cake with cherries on top, soaked in brandy for a month. Their German sausage they get from a renowned butcher in Nelspruit, their cheese is a white cheddar and gouda from a cheesery in the next valley, and they make all four of their own relishes, including a mustard. So you can look forward to real local, home-made food.

No guesses as to how well the brewery is going to do. With his intention to supply other restaurants in Dullstroom with bottles of his brew, Anvil Ale will soon be synonymous with the town and a reason alone to stop for lunch.

Contact & Address
To find Anvil Brewery, it is on the right if you drive into Dullstroom from Lydenburg, or on your left on the other side of town, if you enter via Belfast.
Telephone: +27 (0)13 254‑0197

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The Jo'burg Skyline

Johannesburg is not a wee city by any stretch of the imagination. It's an economic powerhouse , the provincial capital of Gauteng, has the largest economy in Sub-Saharan Africa, and is the world's largest city that is not built on a river, lake or coastline, according to Wiki.

It is often perceived by those who do not live there to be something of a concrete jungle in which crime of every form and description is rife. Some of this must be true as it features in the Real Clear World's top ten most dangerous cities in the world not at war (quite a mouthful and not necessarily a creditable list of dangerous cities), but considering that London makes it to the list as well, it is obviously a relative experience and depends very much on how much of a victim you make yourself — strolling around with your pocket bulging with a wallet and your camera slung around your neck in the middle of downtime Jo'burg probably qualifies as such.

There are a few obvious no-no's for those visiting for the first time and not used to a city that will react to even a slight provocation: don't walk around at night, place all your bags, including your handbag, in the boot of your car, don't flash your heavy-duty diamond engagement ring around, don't use your cell phone whilst driving and, when driving on your own late at night, pause only at stop streets and red traffic lights devoid of other traffic (but don't quote me on this), called robots in Jo'burg.

Driving through Jo'burg

And yes, there are the stark contrasts between the wealthy and the poor, and the city's centre is now a picture of urban decay, and organised crime has made its presence felt. But that's only half of the picture. Avoiding going out because you're scared of crime just makes you another victim of observation from behind the safety of razor wire and six foot walls.

Exploring Johannesburg is a must. It is best to have your wits about you, but there are a feast of things you can do that will only open your eyes and give you a far clearer picture of what the city is about.

There is the Carlton Centre, and Gold Reef City (yawn) but any resident of the city that never sleeps will tell you these are largely tourist traps, even if finding out all about the history of the discovery of gold in Johannesburg, and the reason for its existence, is fascinating.

If you want to experience the pulse of the city then here are a couple of things you will want to do:

The Hillbrow Tower

Apartheid Museum

Back in the late seventies and early eighties, Hillbrow was the hip and happening 'grey area' suburb of Jo'burg, which meant that despite being a 'whites only' area, different ethnicities lived here happily together. Living in Hillbrow labelled you a liberal, arty type. Today it's an inner city suburb of intense population, high unemployment, poverty and crime. Much of it is boarded up, paint and plaster peeling off the walls of former shops. It's a tough and dangerous neighbourhood filled with squatters, immigrants and refugees.

But the Hillbrow Tower, a very high, round, telecommunications tower, dominates the city's skyline and has become a symbol of the city the way that Table Mountain represents Cape Town. In 2010 the tower, now owned by Telkom, added a massive soccer ball to the equation. Whilst you can't visit it any longer – there used to be a revolving restaurant at the top of it – getting a pic of the tower is one of the most popular tourist attractions. Otherwise the Parktown Westcliff Heritage Trust does a walking tour of Hillbrow and Berea Ridge starting at the Windybrow. You can contact them to find out more (+27 (0)11 482‑3349).

Apartheid Museum

Hector Pieterson Memorial

A must-do if you want to get to grips with South Africa's past. The Apartheid Museum outlines the rise and fall of apartheid, the racially prejudiced system in practice between 1948 and 1994, when Nelson Mandela was elected president after serving as a political  prisoner for 27 years. The thoroughly modern museum includes film footage, photographs, text panels and artifacts. You cannot but be moved.

Soweto

Best done as part of a tour, there are many to choose from that take you around the largest black township in South Africa. Most tours will include the Hector Pieterson Museum, Mandela House Museum, Freedom Square, Vilakazi Street, Maponya shopping mall, the Kliptown Open-Air Museum, and a local shabeen to sample local food and drink. If you are really adventurous, bungee jump between the two Orlando cooling towers.

The villages of Jo'burg – Melville, Parktown, Greenside and Norwood

The Gautrain

Each of these has a humming street culture, something Johannesburg is not strong on, for obvious reasons. Choose from a selection of restaurants, delis, coffee shops, bistros and boutiques, and watch people from beneath umbrellas at tables largely on the pavement. All of these are great at night too.

The Gautrain

Even if you don't fly into OR Tambo and catch the Gautrain into Sandton to make it easier for your hosts to avoid the nightmare traffic, take a trip on this new addition to Johannesburg public transport. The full length of the line is still not in operation between Pretoria and Johannesburg, but all who have caught the train between the airport and Sandton, opened in time for the 2010 FIFA World Cup, have come away impressed.

Credo Mutwa Cultural Village

Newtown Cultural Precinct

Lying in Jabavu, Soweto, and surrounding the Oppenheimer Tower, is the cultural village created by Credo Mutwa, traditional healer, artist and author, who despite being almost 90 years old continues to practise as a sangoma, although he recently suffered a stroke . You'll be able to study a series of symbolic clay sculptures and buildings that depict African culture and folklore, although many of them stand slightly chipped and dishevelled from weathering the elements. The village was vandalised after Credo made what have been described as 'controversial' statements about the 1976 Soweto uprising. Despite the later renovations the place is a little worn, but well worth the visit. Best to get a guide to take you through the village to explain the symbolism of the various art pieces, particularly those his followers believe predicted HIV in Africa, and the planes that crashed in to the NY World Trade Centre.

Newtown

Spoken about as the cultural heart of the city, Newtown is part of Johannesburg's regeneration project, the part of the inner city that is safe to visit and full of things, creative. You get there via the Nelson Mandela Bridge, full of billboard advertising by day, a flurry of lights by night, which links Braamfontein and the north of Jo'burg to Newtown. The complex boasts three theatres, two art galleries, a selection of restaurants, including Kippies, which still brings you live jazz, and a Saturday morning flea market in the same vein as the one that used to draw crowds here during the 1980s and early 1990s.

Other activities you shouldn't miss:

•    Johannesburg Zoo
•    Lilliesleaf Farm
•    Walter Sisulu National Botanical Gardens
•    Emmarentia Dam and the Johannesburg Botanical Gardens
•    SAB Museum
•    Cradle of Humankind
•    Constitution Hill

Useful Johannesburg Links:

Johannesburg Attractions
Things to Do in Johannesburg
Johannesburg Accommodation
Johannesburg Search by Map

Barrydale Cellar

The South African brandy industry has a rich and proud history of brandy making extending 330 years. The word brandy comes from the Dutch word "brandewijn" which means burnt wine, referring to its distillation. Home to superlative quality brandies, connoisseurs from all over the world consider South Africa a top brandy making nation. Winning many international awards, brandy tours are a must for all those who love the drink and are interested in the process of making brandy...

The process begins with healthy ripe grapes being picked early on in the harvesting season. They are then crushed and destalked and the juice is fermented into a crisp fruity wine. After this, the distillation process takes place and the wine is turned into a tasty spirit, with its own distinct character and taste depending on the master blender. If this sounds interesting or you simply appreciate the taste, the R62 brandy route is the perfect route to enjoy the many unique brandy flavours South Africa has to offer.

Barrydale Cellar in Barrydale

In 1941 Barrydale produced its first official brandy and has never looked back. Famous for its Joseph Barry Cape Pot Still Brandy, Barry and Nephew's Muscat Pot Still Brandy and the Joseph Barry five-year-old, each of these brandies have won many awards throughout the years. A trip to the cellar includes a tour of the brandy distillery, a wine and brandy tasting, as well as a relaxing walk around the Heritage Garden.
Call 028 572 1012. (See Barrydale accommodation for options to stay the night).

Boplaas in Calitzdorp

Boplaas in Calitzdorp

Well known as the producer of excellent ports and wines, Boplaas also produces very high quality brandy. Dating back to 1880, the current owner Carel Nel's great great grandfather exported his first batch of fine Boplaas Brandy to England. Since then, the legacy of Boplaas and the Nel family has flourished.  What makes this an interesting cellar is the fact that this is the first winery to let an elephant tread grapes in the production of wine. Presently the Boplaas 8 Year Old Potstill Brandy and the Carel Nel Reserve Brandy are being produced and are firm favourites. When visiting this cellar you can buy wine, port or brandy and enjoy a tasting. Distillery tours must be arranged in advance.
Call 044 213 3326 (See Calitzdorp accommodation if you plan to stay the night).

Grundheim in Oudtshoorn

Famous for Witblits made in a traditional brandy still, the Grundling family have been farming here for over a century. Their secret family recipes have resulted in their liquers and witblits winning many awards and in 2002 they launched Potstill brandy, adding another fine drink to their already prosperous cellar. This family run business has a relaxed and friendly atmosphere and is open for both tasting and brandy sales.
Call 044 272 6927 (See Oudtshoorn accommodation to stay thew night)

Klipdrift Distillery in Robertson

Klipdrift Distillery

JP Marais first distilled Klipdrift Brandy in 1938 and today, more than 70 years later, the original specifications are still being adhered to, ensuring the original taste and quality. What started as a small distillery in Marais' back yard has now grown into an empire. Enjoy an informative tasting and a tour through the distillery, where you will be treated to South African hospitality at its best. Make a day out of it and have lunch at the restaurant Die brandewyntuin. Try the legendary Klipdrift Burger with potato wedges while sipping on a brandy and coke, true South African style.
Call 023 626 3027 (See Robertson accommodation to find a place to stay).

KWV House of Brandy in Worcester

The KWV House of Brandy is the biggest brandy producer and exporter in Africa, making it a must visit. The largest cellar of its kind in the word, 120 pot stills are found under one roof. Winning the World's Best brandy in 2000, KWV is famous for its outstanding quality brandies. Enjoy a tour where you can explore the numerous stages of brandy making, ranging from double distillation, maturation and the manufacturing of oak barrels. This working distillery allows you to relish in the smells, tastes and textures of the brandy process and best of all, a sample of award winning brandies can be sipped on at the end of it.
Call 023 342 0255 (See Worcester accommodation for overnight options).

Useful Links:

• Route 62 Attractions
• Route 62 Accommodation
• Things to Do on Route 62
• Western Cape Accommodation

Crocworld

Crocworld, situated on the outskirts of Scottburgh on the KwaZulu-Natal South Coast, is one of the more interesting venues to visit in this part of the world. Opened in 1985, Crocworld was originally built to farm Nile crocodiles to produce crocodile skins for the European markets. Over time some members of the public wanted the opportunity to observe these prehistoric reptiles in surroundings that closely resemble their natural habitat. Their calls were heeded and a second section called “Croc tourism” was opened ...

Crocworld administrators then decided to bring in animals such as meerkats, Black-backed jackals and a variety of bird species to add some spice to the mix. Soon the public were being charged a small fee for the privilege of seeing these animals and the Crocworld of today was born.

In recent years the establishment added a curio shop and a restaurant to its growing list of attractions not least of which are its ever increasing number of mammal, bird and reptile species. I visited Crocworld this past weekend with some friends and what a pleasant and informative visit it proved to be.

After paying our entrance fees we passed through the swing gate where we encountered our first animal of the day – a rather scary looking reticulated python. Native to East Asia, these huge serpents are the world’s longest reptiles and longest snakes (adults can reach lengths of up to 8.7m) and the specimen in question certainly looked the part – its thick coils and rather large triangular shaped head giving it a distinctly imposing stance.

The rest of the reptile display featured a variety of serpents from different parts of the globe with our very own Black mamba and the East African Gaboon viper probably winning the award for the most intimidating of the lot. Both of these snakes are highly venomous and need to be given a wide berth, although in the case of the expertly camouflaged Gaboon, this is easier said than done.

Crocworld conducts venomous snake demonstrations on weekends to educate the public on the very important role these fascinating creatures play in nature. Venomous snake handling, identification and the treatment of snakebites courses are also presented every three months.

After bidding farewell to our slithery friends we were greeted by probably the most evocative sound of Africa – a loud cry from Isis, the resident African Fish Eagle. Found through much of Southern Africa, these large eagles prey on fish, turtles, baby crocodiles and flamingos and are found predominately near freshwater lakes, reservoirs or rivers. Like all caged birds at Crocworld, Isis has been rehabilitated and is unable to be released into the wild. However, she seemed happy enough and had it not been for the concerted efforts of the Crocworld staff, Isis would have perished a long time ago.

A little further on from Isis’ cage we encountered a clearing and were met by the sight of literally hundreds of crocodiles all basking in the afternoon sun. Thankfully they were all safely contained in their enclosures although they were still truly an awesome sight to behold. The vast majority of Crocworld’s crocs are Niles although the park also houses a small collection of alligators, African Dwarf crocodiles and African Long Snouted crocodiles. Although there are a number of attractions at Crocworld the main draw card is probably 111-year-old Henry, the oldest known crocodile in captivity. A 4m, 750kg monster, Henry was captured in 1903 by an elephant hunter in the Okavango Delta in Botswana. Even at his advanced age Henry is showing no sign of slowing down and lives with his 10 wives who produce over 400 babies a year!

Crocworld houses over 200 breeding Nile crocodiles in six spacious enclosures where up to six females are kept together with a single male croc. After each of the pregnant females finds a suitable nesting site they will dig a hole and lay their eggs in it. Staff will then collect the eggs and take them to incubator rooms where they will be kept for about 80 days. After hatching the little crocs are removed from their incubator rooms and placed into a “hot room” where they will remain for about two days. Following this all hatchlings will be ready to sell to any registered organisation in possession of the required permits.

The park’s breeding stock of Nile crocodiles was brought in from Botswana and the KwaZulu-Natal Parks board in the 1980s. Significant emphasis has been placed on recreating as natural an environment as possible for the breeding crocs, which has greatly enhanced the viewing experience. In addition to Henry the other major attraction at Crocworld are the feeding demonstrations and talks which are conducted every day (except Mondays) at 11am and 3pm. Our host Manie impressed us with his knowledge of Nile crocodiles and was ready to answer any questions we had on his favourite subject.

Among the more interesting facts about Nile crocodiles is that they are currently being researched in the hope of finding a cure for the many deadly diseases which plague mankind. Their powerful immune systems have attracted the attention of the medical profession for some time and scientists are hoping to unlock the many potentially life-saving secrets hidden within their DNA.

Of all the mammals at Crocworld the meerkats are without a doubt my favourite. Classified as part of the mongoose family, meerkats live in clans of up to 20 members and are some of the most adorable animals on the planet. They are extremely mischievous and playful, almost in the manner that a bunch of naughty children are. The meerkats at Crocworld are very tame and their keeper was quite happy to pluck one off the ground and allow us to touch it. The sensation is pretty much like stroking a pet dog or cat and I was almost tempted to take one of the little tykes home with me – they were that cute.

Another feature of the park that is rather impressive is the walk-through aviary where I was able to get a close up view of South Africa’s national bird – the very graceful and elegant Blue crane. The specimen in question appeared to have no fear of me whatsoever, walking straight up to my camera lens making for a really great shot.

With the temperature beginning to drop it was time to head off home, but not before saying a quick hello and goodbye to a brilliantly coloured Toco toucan which was housed in a smallish enclosure near the exit. This spectacular bird has a huge 20cm bill that accounts for 30–50 percent of its body surface area – the largest beak to body size of all birds. Truly amazing!

I really enjoyed my visit to Crocworld. I learnt a lot about a number of different animal species, sampled some really great food at the on site Le Rendez-vous restaurant and meant a really interesting person in Manie, whose passion for crocodiles was evident for all to see.

The entrance fee of R50 was well worth it and if you ever find yourself holidaying on the South Coast, make sure you pay this venue a visit. You definitely won’t be disappointed. (see more photographs in the Gallery below)

Contact details:
Tel: +27 (0)39 976 1103
Address: Scottburgh, South Coast, KwaZulu-Natal

Useful Links

• Scottburgh Accommodation
• Scottburgh Attractions
• South Coast Attractions
• South Coast Accommodation
• KwaZulu Natal Accommodation

Flickr Photo Gallery:

Mooiberge Farm Stall

'Oh, my gawd!' I exclaim, as the full impact of the tableau across the road of the intersection with the R44 hits me. 'We have to, have to stop off a minute and get a good look at that.'

We're just turning onto the R44 that links Somerset West to Stellenbosch, en route to the Stellenbosch Botanical Garden, with Spier behind us (via a rather circular route, admittedly). Speak about advertising. If the hodge podge arrangement of what appears to be raggedy anne dolls, aeroplanes and very tall giraffe were a billboard, it would be exceedingly large and outrageously bright; virtually incandescent actually. One is drawn like a magnet...

We fall out of the car into the full heat of the day – it must be 40 degrees already, no kidding – to get a closer look. Breakfast, a rather jaunty blackboard placed strategically at the ramp to the farm stall announces, is served 'die boere manier' (the farmer's way), with 2 eggs, 2 bacon, boerewors and 2 toast. And if that doesn't do it for you, then a 'healthy start' is the muesli, yoghurt and fruit alternative or just plain eggs and toast.

Infront of the restaurant, next to the farm stall, which is in reality a rather small shop but stocked to the hilt, is this display that makes the huge strawberry at Lyndoch station at the garage look, well, rather pathetic by comparison. There is what looks like a papier mâché giraffe, the gaudy purple and pink neck of which rises above the little tree next to which it is perched. At its feet lie a bunch of vacant looking scarecrows, tied together with string.

But wait, there's yet another giraffe, this one light blue, a scarecrow on its back, and what looks like a group of papier mâché figurines behind a wire fence, called the Mooiberg Sexy Star. An entire collection of little aeroplanes, a train engine of note called the strawberry choo-choo, and a real studebaker 1954 model (I think it's a studebaker, but I wouldn't know a real one if it jumped up and bit me), in mangled disrepair, but what kid wouldn't want to clamber all over this?

But that's where it gets a little difficult, as despite the incredible allure for children, it's not particularly safe. Out of necessity, I assume, barbed wire has joined the tableau. And more than one child, I would imagine, has found his heel, or worse, nipped in the process of attempting to experiment with the individual characters and obvious rides – the grain fertiliser seed planter is so enmeshed with it that you can't even get close to it – what a pity! Admittedly, there are rather obvious signs indicating that play in this particular playground is at your own risk, but then every park has one of these (signs). One doesn't expect barbed wire.

I cast my eye over the sail boat and the windmill and the tower that begs children to scramble, and shepherd my five-year old back to the car. Okay, so it isn't a playground, but it's up there with Outsider art for entertainment value, and just about every establishment in the neighbourhood, from wine farms to Stellenbosch accommodation venues, mentions the Mooiberge farm stall. It's something of a landmark.

But Mooiberge farm is actually about strawberries, and, at the right time of year – the season usually starts in November and runs through to February – this is where you can experience what it is to pick your own, whilst munching them straight off the plant. The idea is that you pay for what you pick (and what you manage to get into your mouth whilst picking is, well...)

The farm stall is a treat. Aside from the obvious jams and dried fruit, there are nuts, fresh fruit, drinks and any kind of snack you can think of. The place is brimming. But this is only a pitstop and we're off again. Glad we stopped to have a look.

Useful Stellenbosch Links

• Stellenbosch Attractions
• Things to Do in Stellenbosch
• Stellenbosch Accommodation
• Stellenbosch Hotels
• Cape Winelands Hotels
• South Africa Hotels

"Do" the Overberg

I thought ten days would be more than enough to take in a few of the towns and highlights of the Overberg, but I couldn't have been more wrong. Ten days is but a dress rehearsal for the performance, and we could easily return for another two weeks and still not have captured the essence of the Overberg. The best part about travelling through this part of the Western Cape, other than the incredible scenery, is that getting there from Cape Town is really easy (bar the N2 bottle-neck through Somerset West, but even that is manageable if you time it properly). And yet, two and a half hours later, one feels as though one is in another part of the world ...

In essence you are. After driving over both Sir Lowry's and the Houw Hoek Passes (so different in character), one enters a world of wheat fields, the presence of mountains, quaint little towns, an enviable coastline to which the Southern Right whale returns annually to calve between July and November, fleeting glimpses of blue cranes in farmers' fields, and vibrant scenery to take your breath away.

Stanford

Stanford

Stanford is a delicious not-so-small, but very fashionable town, and a lot of Capetonians have second homes here. A lot of the original buildings have been restored and there is an historical walk one can do (pick up a brochure at the town's information tourism office), followed by lunch in at least three highly recommendable restaurants – Mariannas, Madré's Kitchen and graze (make sure to book ahead, as at least two of these are only open over weekends when trade picks up).

The town rests on the bank of the Klein River, along which there is a lovely walking trail. But you can also take a river cruise and experience the calm of the countryside from the deck, a glass of wine in your hand. In town find antique shops, book shops and galleries. Nearby are the Klein River Cheesery, Birkenhead Micro Brewery and a number of wine estates. You won't be short of things to do in Stanford. (See Stanford Accommodation to book a place to stay).

Baardskeersdersbos

Baardskeerdersbos

Baardskeerdersbos is a small, rural 'dorp' on a dirt road roughly 30 kilometres from Stanford, off the Grootbos turnoff. It's a hamlet full of artists and they hold a three-times-a-year art route that you could easily make the highlight of your trip. Artists open their homes and their hearts to you, in a timeless way that is reminiscent of 'koffee opie stoep' in small towns of the imagination.

Aside from the fact that it is a beautiful, characterful town, lying in amongst a rich abundance of fynbos, and there are a couple of restaurants and places to stay, it is the artists themselves that bring delightful Baardskeerdersbos to life. (See Baardskeerdersbos Accommodation to book a place to stay).

Napier

Napier

Napier is a gem of a town, perched on a hill at the foot of the Soetmuisberg, its main road filled with restaurants, guest houses and quirky shops. It's also en route to L'Agulhas or Elim, so it does not struggle for passing trade. A drive through the little avenues and roads above the town reveals characterful cottages, vegetable gardens and a whole dollop of charm. Many of the cottages have been restored by Capetonians, who have second homes here, but it has a different flavour to Stanford, retaining its quaint rural quality. Make a stop at the Napier Farmstall to pick up a loaf of homemade bread. (See Napier Accommodation to find a place to stay).

Bredasdorp

Bredasdorp, really close to Napier, acts as something of a fulcrum with roads leading from the town to Struisbaai and L'Agulhas, Elim, Arniston and De Hoop. It's a far larger town than its neighbour, Napier, but claims to be South Africa's first 'dorp',  established in 1838. This is a good town in which to stock up before moving on, but make sure to stop and visit the Shipwreck Museum and take in a couple of the old buildings, as the town has an interesting history and is very pretty, if you know where to look. The Heuningberg Nature Reserve is worth a visit to spot the Bradasdorp lily, best viewed in April or May. (See Bredasdorp Accommodation to find a place to stay).

Arniston

Arniston

Arniston is a beautiful seaside village, filled with whitewashed cottages that have spread out around the original Kassiesbaai, a 200-year-old fishing village that is also a national heritage site, and in which fishermen continue in the footsteps of their fathers and their fathers before them. You can do a guided tour, or experience local food at a  restaurant called Willene's (house C62 in Kassiesbaai). Arniston is also known as Waenhuiskrans (it's one of the only towns with two official names) after a huge cave reached only at low tide. Walk on the beaches, explore the town on foot and generally slow down. (See Arniston Accommodation for a place to stay).

Elim

Elim is a picture-book pretty little town that was a mission village. It is also the oldest village in the Strandveld, founded in 1824 by members of the Moravian Church. Church Street is lined with historical cottages, many of them thatched as a number of the locals are thatchers and renowned for their craftsmanship. Make sure that you do a tour of the village with the local guide, visit the museum, and if you can, stay overnight in the local guesthouse. Elim is a gem. (See Elim Accommodation to find a place to stay).

L'Agulhas

L'Agulhas

L'Agulhas is the southernmost town in South Africa. It also has a magnificent lighthouse, which everyone visits and climbs, modelled on one of the Seven Wonders of the world – the Pharos. It is the country's second-oldest working lighthouse, its function to keep ships from the sharp, jagged rocks of the coastline, after which the town is named. The shore is wonderful for fishing, there are several tidal and rock pools and, of course, one can stand at the confluence of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans and have one's photo taken – there is a cairn just 1 kilometre west of the lighthouse. (See L'Agulhas Accommodation for a place to stay).

When in the Overberg make sure you do:

• De Hoop Nature Reserve – beautiful reserve and wonderful place to view whales; you could spend days here
• De Mond Nature Reserve – on the mouth of the Heuningnes River, great for a picnic
• Agulhas National Park – on the coast at L'Agulhas, in which you'll find the village of Suiderstrand completely surrounded by the park
• Platbos forest – an incredible opportunity to walk through an ancient forest

Overberg Links

• Cape Overberg Attractions
• Things to Do in Cape Overberg
• Cape Overberg Hotels
• Cape Overberg Accommodation
• Western Cape Accommodation

Struisbaai

“Oh, you must visit Hotagterklip”, Ilze from the Napier farmstall mentions, on her way  to deliver another couple of her scrumptious chicken pies to the table alongside us. We are busy pouring over a map of the area, enjoying the idea of choosing where next to go, once we'd settled ourselves in Arniston.

“Hotagterklip? Where's that?” I ask, assuming it is another little town in the vicinity, one upon which I have not yet stumbled. I begin doing mental calculations as I try to work out where another town could possibly lie in the Cape Overberg.

Finally, after reading through local brochures, we discover that Hotagterklip is not a town, but a little collection of fishermen's cottages just outside Struisbaai. And since Struisbaai is en route to L'Agulhas, we'll pass Hotagterklip at the same time – bonus.

Stopping off at Hotagterklip, we soon learn, takes a concerted effort. Three of the pretty little whitewashed cottages lie to the right of the road, literally on the doorstep of Struisbaai. Yet there is something about the lie of the land (I think there is a curve in the road just then) that sees one drive past without the cottages even so much as registering.

There is a sign. Someone has painted 'Hotagterklip' in black on a little white wall close to the cottages. But it's fairly far off the road and doesn't make much of an impact. Of the three little cottages, one is open for coffee and the other is a Padstal. The house known as the Craft cottage is closed. Not much seems to be happening either. But I get out to explore.

Maryna is manning the Padstal. She's busy chatting to a couple of wire artists as I arrive, and they've obviously just given her a few enormous wire hearts to hang up in the whitewashed interior – the type that are rather fashionable at the moment. I stoop to enter the tiny farmstall. Maryna is happy to chat. It seems that most people, like us, drive past Hotagterklip. They don't even realise that one can stop for coffee and cake, or that there is a farmstall here at all.

It seems too that all the big bus tour companies pass the historical monument by, heading straight for L'Agulhas and the coffee shop in the museum at that end. As a result, this beautiful little stretch of history is lost. It's a shame, really. Maryna tells me how Sophie, who I see serving coffee to the first couple they've had stop the entire day, used to live in the very cottage in which she now serves tea, along with her rather large family.

Hotagterklip is Afrikaans for 'left rear stone', a name that is ostensibly derived from the days of the first ox wagon trek, when a stone outcrop meant a detour for travellers – if a stone was in the way, they would try to get the wagon pole to pass to the left of the stone.

Most of the collection of historical fishermen's cottages lie over the road from here, behind a rocky outcrop, so I can understand the origin of the name. It has a connotation for today too, given what I've been told, as unless visitors know about it they tend to treat Hotagterklip as something of a detour.

These other little cottages across the road from the Padstal appear to be lived in but have almost been absorbed into a modern townhouse complex. It's only recently that they've been restored and declared national monuments, including a thatched roof church a little bit further down the road, right in the heart of Struisbaai, tucked in amongst an OK Grocer and a hardware store.

There's a wonderful exchange between my son and Maryna. He gives her money after hearing her story. He's only five, and is just beginning to grasp the concept of trade. The offer of his coins to Maryna, who has mentioned that it is no longer feasible for her to keep the coffee shop running, is his way of showing empathy. She responds  beautifully offering him a thank you in return, a sweet that must cost quite a bit more than the coins he has proffered, but this doesn't seem to worry either of them. It's one of those warm hearted instances, where a little bit of grace enters the moment.

Later, we have a little time left, after visiting L'Agulhas and the lighthouse, to explore Struisbaai's harbour.  It's surprisingly small, built in 1959 and filled with brightly coloured little wooden fishing boats. A few children play along the pier and I watch as one little girl runs screaming away from a group of boys who try to catch her net, which has fallen into the sea.

There is a seafood restaurant on the quayside that is doing good business, and icecream cones are selling like hotcakes as the day has been beautiful. At one end someone is trying to learn stand up paddle boarding, the latest craze to hit SA, and we watch awhile. There is supposed to be a community of giant stingrays that live in the waters of the harbour here that are a major attraction, but we don't see them, despite hearing that they allow people to hand feed them.

In this light the harbour is quite beautiful. And the town too has managed to retain that typical beachside town feel. Struisbaai looks like a wonderful place to holiday.

Struisbaai Links

• Struisbaai Attractions
• Things to Do in Struisbaai
• Struisbaai Self Catering
• Struisbaai Accommodation
• Cape Agulhas Accommodation