Wouldn’t you rather be here too?

Photograph: View from Robben Island towards Cape Town

Photograph: Table Mountain Cableway

Photograph: V&A Waterfront, Cape Town

Cape Town is gearing up for a holiday season like never before – book your accommodation in Cape Town now before there are no rooms left in the City!

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Cape Town Attractions
Things to Do in Cape Town
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Western Cape Accommodation

As you enter the generous courtyard, its perimeter under cover and brimming over with stallholders at wooden tables, black boards behind them announcing their wares, there is a generous aroma of bacon and eggs. On your immediate right is the Boeremark stall, there from early to supply you with bacon and egg rolls or a farmers breakfast. On the morning we arrived (which was our second visit to the market and the area) they had already stopped selling farmers breakfasts, so popular are they.

The space is brimming with families, conversation, laughter, wine and good, local food in abundance. Hermanuspietersfontein, the original name for Hermanus way back in 1855 before it was shortened (thank goodness, can you imagine getting that out first thing in the morning?), is the chosen name of a wine cellar and brand that uses these premises for wine tasting. As part of the Sunday’s Glen wine ward the farm was awarded champion status by the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI) last year. The farm lies nestled in the valley between the mountainous area close to Stanford and the Atlantic Ocean.

It’s a smart move to use their generous courtyard with seating for the weekly market, as where better to sell your wine! With food, goes wine. And it’s quite a collection of local quality food that you’ll find here. The cheese stall, run by Gerrie, usually has a bit of a queue, and, all of the cheeses are local in the sense that they’re from Cape Town and the surrounding areas.  Gruyere, blue cheese, goats cheese, you name it, it’s there, alongside a small but killer collection of cured meats – blackforest ham, pancetta and copper.

Other stalls include ‘eat Greek’, which, as its name suggests, serves delicious Greek foods that include tzatziki, humus, spanakopittas and dolmades; Matt’s fish, which had a selection of cob, red roman and kingklip – all fresh; a bread stall where an array of handmade artisan breads are baked by Jenny, whose husband Hennie used to do the incredible fish stall (it wasn’t there on our visit, perhaps Jenny decided breads would be a better idea?). Jenny described to us how she prepares her starters, mostly from wheat, to produce her breads, which sell at modest prices when compared to the Cape Town markets.

Auntie Gerda convinced us to part with our cash very easily. Her assorted cakes, small bakes, truffles and cup cakes are delightful and delicious. My other half will be returning simply to acquire more of her millionaires shortbread! Rita was selling a selection of homemade pies, whilst Jan and Marie served us an amazing pancake. That was by no means the sum total of the stalls, there were plenty of others that included an array of pickles, mustards and chutneys, droë wors, Gerald the coffee man, who apparently has been known to make 410 coffees on demand in 360 minutes, and more.

Also worth a mention are the fish cakes which we managed to sample. They were simply delicious and value for money, but I’m blown if I can remember from which stall they came …

There were a few characters at the market too, and, if you don’t mind the occasional warbling nasality of Celine Dion, take a seat, collect your goodies from the stalls around you, and bask off in the atmosphere of a large communal dining-room, where friends and family make a ‘thing’ of Saturday mornings.

When? Every Saturday 09h00 – 13h00
Contact: +27 (0)28 316-1875

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Hermanus Attractions
Things to Do in Hermanus
Hermanus Hotels
Hermanus Accommodation

The Northern and Central Drakensberg falls into four valleys; Champagne Valley, Didima Valley, Amphitheatre Valley and finally the Middledale Pass Valley in the Northern Berg.

Big peaks in the Champagne Valley are Cathkin and Champagne Castle with peaks of 3149 and 3248 metres respectively and are some of the highest in the Drakensberg. Cathkin was named by Scottish settlers after an area near Glasgow in their native country and Champagne Peak was named by a climber who took a bottle of bubbly along with him to celebrate his ascent to the summit of the peak … and then accidentally dropped the bottle!

The Cathedral Peak and Didima Valley areas of the ‘Berg offer beautiful scenery (although where in the Drakensberg doesn’t offer magnificent views?) If you have a 4×4 and are in this area drive to the top of Mike’s Pass for picture perfect moments of the Central Drakensberg and Rainbow Gorge.

The Royal Natal National Park in the Amphitheatre Valley is a well known tourist spot and its most famous feature is the Amphitheatre where the mountain rises straight up to a height of 3000 ft. The Royal National Park also features Cannibal Cave where tribal people had to resort to cannibalism while hiding from Shaka Zulu as he searched the area for his enemies.

To me, the best place in the ‘Berg is Loteni. Also well known for its beautiful scenery, Loteni Nature Reserve is part of the Southern Drakensberg and is located between Kamberg and Sani Pass. As its only 70kms away from the village of Nottingham Road it’s a perfect day trip if you are in the area Midlands Meandering.

For the hiker there are a number of good walks and the birding enthusiast will not be disappointed with the wide variety of bird life to be seen; 150 different species have been recorded in the reserve. If however you are like me and you prefer to just do nothing then the rivers offer excellent entertainment. Take an amble down to Cool Pools and spend the day swimming and baking dry on the flat rocks.

I’m going back to Loteni in December and I can’t wait!

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Photograph: Loteni Waterfall – Courtesy of and © South African Tourism

Vermont

Tell people that you’re on your way to Vermont and many give you a puzzled response. They obviously are not expecting you to go all the way to America for the weekend, but whilst their brains are whizzing around trying to place the town on a map, I rescue them and explain that it lies close to Hermanus. The relief is palpable.

Acquaintances of ours have a wee cottage set in the heart of Vermont’s ‘old’ quarter. After staying in the town twice now, and familiarising myself with its streets, I have divided Vermont into the ‘old’ and ‘new’, or ‘east’ and ‘west’ quarters for my own reasons. The east or old side is relatively conservative with smaller homes and pretty gardens, whilst the west suffers from a serious case of ‘my house is bigger than yours’ syndrome (although there are obvious exceptions).

One particularly unsavoury example, despite its rather pretty Gaudi-esque architecture, has deposited itself smack bang on one of the pathways down to the sea, blocking off the view for everyone else, and hogging the coastline for the length of the house – its doors and windows closed and curtained for the one occasion a year when the owners grace it with their presence, to marvel at the view they have secured for themselves.

Kite Cottage

Despite my cynicism, Vermont is a lovely place to stay. It’s essentially a holiday village set on the shoreline right next door to the other seaside village of Onrus. Our little cottage (See: http://www.kitecottage.co.za/) is no bigger than a postage stamp, a little wooden hut with a couple of bedrooms built as a typical seaside holiday home, set in amongst a garden filled with fynbos – a perfect seaside escape, in other words. There is a sign at the gate, in complete antithesis of the other side of Vermont, welcoming tortoises, small antelope and birds. There is little evidence, unfortunately, of any of these, although tortoises were initially part of the landscape, and we did see a little snake whilst we were there (much to my son’s excitement).

The coastline here is beautiful. Whilst Vermont does not have a beach (i.e. sandy stretches) as such, there are a series of green belts and gorgeous coastal paths that combine to provide a fynbos-rich stretch of coastline, interspersed with tidal pools – perfect for little ones. The seaside is rife with the calls of seabirds, and if you’re there at a quieter time of year there is little to disturb you, whilst the pools and alcoves of beach are generally sheltered from the wind, as we discovered on our last visit when the wind howled for the duration of our stay.

Vermont

We stayed a few moments walk from the shoreline, which we managed to do at least once a day, despite the weather. The green belts provide dense fynbos and a place for incredible spiders to nest. The tidal pool areas are usually thick with kelp, sea sponges and shells, if you like that kind of thing, but if you don’t, head along the coastal paths towards Onrus as the beach there has a large, sandy stretch and is popular for swimming and surfing. At busy times of year, such as Easter, it’s probably better to head there really early as it becomes something of a bun fight to find parking and a spot on the sand.

One comes to Vermont to unwind, or to see whales, as Hermanus is literally around the corner, but don’t expect a typical seaside resort feel. The green belts and coastal paths have prevented development right on the shoreline and, with your back to the ostentation of some of the houses close to the sea, you are at one with nature. This is a space in which to go on long melancholy walks, sit and ponder whilst watching the waves crash against the rocks, or somewhere simply to read for hours.

Whale watching

Behind one is the Onrust Mountain, a beautiful backdrop to the village that probably serves as the source of the village’s name – ‘mont vert’ means ‘green mountain’. There is a small mall just on turning into Vermont (you drive right past it on the left if you’re on your way to Onrus) but it serves as a sign that the town is essentially a holiday locale, with only a 7 Eleven, post office, local pub and chemist to choose from. There is one hidden gem – head upstairs to the internet café where there is a second-hand bookshop that is a lifesaver if you’re there without reading material!

If you’re on your way through to Hermanus whilst staying in Vermont (and being in Vermont is a more sane option over the Whale Festival when accommodation in Hermanus is stretched to its limits) drive part of the way via Onrus after which the road joins again with the R43. Onrus is a more settled, unsullied version of Vermont. It’s obviously been here longer and there are fewer examples of ostentatiousness. If anything, Onrus is a haven for artists and the like, and there are more permanent residents than in Vermont.

Vermont

Just off the main road, at the De Wet Hall in Roos Street in Onrus is a monthly local market that looks worth attending. It’s well supported by the local community and is an eclectic mix of school-style craft stalls. But if it’s markets you’re after then head off to the weekly Fernkloof Farmers market in Hermanus in the Montessori School grounds, or the Food and Wine Market at the Hermanuspietersfontein Wine Cellar – you won’t be disappointed.

Also take time to visit Vermont’s salt pan. Set away from the beach en route out of the town, the body of water lies set against the backdrop of the mountain and is a wonderful place to spot birds, including a population of flamingos.

Vermont Photographs – Click thumbnails to enlarge

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Entrance to the Two Oceans Aquarium at the V&A Waterfront

Two Oceans Aquarium Photo Gallery – Click thumbnails to enlarge

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We received the following stunning photograph from Naomi at Outdoor Video and Photographic (OV&P). You may remember her husband, Dave Estment, who fabulous photographs are often featured on this site. Here’s what Naomi had to say about the day and this photograph: “Dave & I visited Cape Town recently with Hills of Africa Travel and we went up Table Mountain on 24th October, which happened to be the 350 Action Day.  We came across a group of rock climbers who were hoisting flags, etc, for the event.  Dave took a great photo of them from the cable car.”

Iconic Table Mountain on International Day of Climate Action – By and © Dave Estment

Quoted From the 350.org website:
On 24 October, people in 181 countries came together for the most widespread day of environmental action in the planet’s history. At over 5200 events around the world, people gathered to call for action on the climate crisis. Over 22,000 photos have been submitted so far! See them all on Flickr »

Lots of AWESOME photographs!!

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Table Mountain
Cape Town Attractions
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Botanical Gardens

Harold Porter is a really pleasant surprise! In fact, it’s one of the Cape’s best kept secrets …

I had forgotten just how gorgeous the drive from Cape Town to Betty’s Bay along Clarence Drive, known also as Route 44, is. We were to visit friends in Somerset West in the evening and, since it looked as though the day would be clear, we ambitiously set off for the Harold Porter Botanical Garden, a long-delayed visit, one we had been meaning to make for too long.

Fortunately for us, despite roadworks in Somerset West that could have turned our journey into a complete misery (and threatened to on our return journey, but that’s an aside for later) we joined Clarence Drive where it skirts the western end of the Hottentots Holland mountain range at Gordon’s Bay with not even a minor hiccough and virtually no mutterings about rude drivers.

Harold Porter

Whilst the wind was gusting in Cape Town, Clarence Drive was relatively unaffected and we were encased in a seamless capsule of blue seas, azure skies and breathless mountain scenery. False Bay falls away down the rocky mountain side to your right, whilst fynbos clad mountains loom to your left. It’s a paradisaical vista, one that easily equals Chapman’s Peak, but without the continuous road closures that dog the link between Hout Bay and Noordhoek.

As we left Gordon’s Bay behind us there were periodic viewpoints en route where several cars at a time can safely pull off the road to drink in the views. I would imagine the road serves as a really good whale watching area too, although the choppy waters below prevented sightings on this occasion.

Clarence Drive is incredibly relaxing, not only because of the obvious beauty of your surrounds, but also more subtly because you can see your destination constantly, where Hangklip Point stands suspended, appearing to almost veer off in the other direction from the rest of the mountains on the eastern shores of False Bay, giving one a sense of containment.

Harold Porter

We passed through Rooi Els and Pringle Bay at Hangklip Mountain, without mishap. Betty’s Bay always catches me by surprise. It is one of the most pretty and beautiful coastal parts of the Cape, not least because it lies, as does Harold Porter National Botanical Garden, within the Kogelberg Biosphere.

Kogelberg really is the heart of the floral kingdom in the Cape. Of the world’s six floral kingdoms, it is not only the smallest, but by far the richest. Size for size the 70 000 hectare Biosphere Reserve is home to the most complex biodiversity on earth with 1 300 different plant species per 10 000 square kilometres. Second on the list behind us lies the South American rainforest, which brings to mind incredible beauty. Yet they have only 420 plant species per 10 000 square kilometres.

When one reads stats like this, it puts into perspective how spoilt we are, and how vulnerable!

It’s interesting to note here that Biosphere Reserves are a fairly new concept. They are fenceless, so there is no wedge between nature and people. Whilst it is evident that there are guidelines for building within the Biosphere – Betty’s Bay’s houses are all surrounded by fynbos and the buildings are not gargantuan – the focus is on living with nature so that our children’s children will still have a healthy and sustainable environment in which to live.

Harold Porter

Harold Porter is a really pleasant surprise! In fact, it’s one of the Cape’s best kept secrets! Anyone in Cape Town who tries to go on a picnic at Kirstenbosch will vouch for how ridiculously busy it can get, particularly when the summer sunset concerts start. Well, we’ve found an alternative. Sure, you have to drive for roughly an hour and a half to get there, but for the peace and serenity, and the incredible range of plants and the pretty gardens set right against Disa Kloof and Leopard’s Kloof, it’s worth it.

The gardens lie in a floral hotspot, dominated by the sandstone peaks of the Kogelberg (hence the name of the biosphere). They all set on a slight incline and from almost everywhere in the garden, the sea is visible. Simply put, the garden is heavenly.

There’s a fairly new restaurant at the entrance to the park where you can lunch, or you can picnic in the gardens themselves under a tree. The garden is just the right size for a number of people to have more than enough space to do their own thing and yet is compact enough to circumnavigate with ease, achieved within the space of an hour or two – depending on how long you take to look at plants. There were a number of avid photographers out when we were there, for whom this was nothing short of a day’s trip.

Harold Porter has a number of reflection ponds in which there were frogs and tadpoles, there is a wetland ecosystem right in the heart of the garden that is really worth a visit, as is the dune ecosystem which gives one a real indication of just how valuable sand dunes are to beaches and their surrounds. Up in the northern reaches of the garden is a limestone fynbos and renosterveld ecosystem that looks as if its paths have been made using crushed mother of pearl shells.

After a picnic and various forays through the garden, at a run for our son doesn’t do things sedately, we had a little time to squash in a visit to Stony Point to see the penguins. For any visitors to Cape Town who have not managed to get to Boulders Beach, this is a wonderfully relaxed (and not full of people) alternative. The entrance fee is nominal, and, like us, you might be lucky enough to hold a baby penguin found marooned in Hermanus, probably taken there by a tide.

He was about to go off to SANCCOB where he will be rehabilitated and then set back in amongst his peers. Without his mother to look after him he wouldn’t survive. If you’re interested, you can adopt a penguin and help SANCCOB continue the work they do for these vulnerable, likely to become endangered birds.

PS: there is an alternative to the N2 through Somerset West and its myriad robots – the continuation of the R44, onto which we veered in a bid to circumnavigate the overcrowded N2 at the bottom of Sir Lowry’s Pass.

Photo Credits:
Photographs used in this article are all by derekkeats on Flickr.com (creative commons license).

Useful Links:
Harold Porter Botanical Gardens
Bettys Bay Attractions
Things to Do in Bettys Bay
Bettys Bay Accommodation
Cape Overberg Accommodation

Announced by Marthinus van Schalkwyk (Minister of Tourism), who said that the increase of Blue Flag beaches from 19 last year to 29 this year was extremely good for tourism in South Africa. “In order for South Africa to optimise its tourism potential, it is critical that we offer both domestic and international visitors clean, safe and well-managed beaches.”

The South African beaches that have received Blue Flag accreditation are:

• MacDougall’s Bay, Port Nolloth (new)
• Yzerfontein Main beach, Yzerfontein (new)
• Big Bay beach, Bloubergstrand Cape Town (new)
• Clifton 4th beach, Cape Town
• Camps Bay, Cape Town
• Muizenberg, Cape Town
• Strandfontein beach, Cape Town
• Mnandi beach, Cape Town
• Bikini beach, Gordon’s Bay
• Kleinmond beach, near Hermanus  (back in programme)
• Hawston beach, near Hermanus
• Grotto beach, Hermanus
• Lappiesbaai, Stilbaai, Southern Cape
• Santos beach, Mossel Bay (new)
• Hartenbos beach, Mossel Bay (new)
• Robberg 5 beach, Plettenberg Bay (new)
• Dolphin beach, Jeffrey’s Bay
• Humewood beach, Port Elizabeth
• Hobie beach, Port Elizabeth
• Wells Estate, north of Port Elizabeth
• Kelly’s beach, Port Alfred
• Kariega Main beach, Kenton-on-Sea (new)
• Boknes beach, Kenton-On-Sea (new)
• Gonubie beach, East London (back in programme)
• Trafalgar beach, south coast KZN (new)
• Marina beach, south coast KZN
• Ramsgate beach, near Margate
• Margate beach
• Alkantstrand, Richards Bay (new)

We congratulate all the Municipalities who have worked hard to achieve Blue Flag status for their beaches!

Additional Reading:
Find out more about the Blue Flag programme at http://www.blueflag.org/

Photographs:
Top photo – Camps Bay Beach, Cape Town
Bottom photo – Muizenberg Beach, Cape Town

Useful Links:
Cape Town Beaches

• False Bay Beaches
• Cape Helderberg Beaches
• Atlantic Seaboard Beaches
• Hermanus Beaches
• South Atlantic Beaches
• Table Bay Beaches

Eastern Cape Beaches

• East London Beaches

KwaZulu Natal Beaches

• South Coast Beaches
• Dolphin Coast Beaches

Oncoming traffic became somewhat indistinct, the world took on the ambiance of Narnia (I kept waiting for Mr Tumnus to come trotting out from under a lamppost) and my stomach took the opportunity to inform me that it was more than a little hungry – ravenous probably comes closer!

And so Sabie it was for a quick nosh stop, and I think the restaurant was set in an old train, but I can’t be certain. I think we had pancakes or crêpes, but to tell you the truth, by this stage it could have been anything! Our destination was beginning to feel more and more elusive, and, as the mist continued we had reservations about getting there at all. Perhaps when the mist settled in like this, roads began turning in on themselves because it felt as though we drove around in ever diminishing circles whilst getting nowhere fast.

But that was the tired brain speaking. After food, things even started looking quite romantic, and we set off again in the knowledge that it wasn’t far now. Considering that some of the accommodation in Pilgrims Rest we passed had names like ‘Misty Mountain lodge’, it was obvious that mist was a common occurrence here and that we had nothing to fear.

We pushed on to Mac Mac along the R532 and then on to Pilgrim’s Rest to our campsite on the banks of the Blyde River – because we were one of the only people there that weekend we managed to camp virtually on top of the river in the shade of some trees. The campsite was beautiful, and the bathrooms clean and spacious. The caravan park has subsequently become a partnership between the Mpumalanga Department of public works and Imbali Yezwe Project and is family owned and managed.

Hence it was that we only got to see Pilgrim’s Rest the following morning, after a good lie in and a hearty breakfast.

Pilgrim’s Rest is just gorgeous. The entire town is a national monument in its own right and has also achieved World Heritage status. In a sense, it’s a living museum, a typical little mining town built during the gold rush of the late 1800s, with a modern day overlay. So you get the feeling of the town as it must have been then, yet modern day shops and businesses now inhabit the buildings. You can read all about the town’s fascinating history here – click to view.

We wandered through some of the little curio and arts and crafts shops with names like ‘the Daisy’ and ‘Edwin Woods & Co Wine merchant’ (that was actually a place to stock up on South African wine set in what was once a mission church!). You must make a stop in Kuzzulos Emporium where you get to dress up in old fashioned clothing before posing for a photograph to grace your mantlepiece (something like they do at Gold Reef City).

One of the highlights for me was the Royal Hotel. The Victorian style building is restored to what must have been its former glory and offers beautiful en-suite bedrooms – antique brass beds, wash stands and wardrobes that date back to that era. Walking through their lounge is like being in a time capsule(!) and the hotel’s bar, known as the Church bar (quite amusing if you think of the irony) used to be a Catholic chapel for a school in Cape Town. It was apparently taken apart, bought by wealthy miners to Pilgrim’s Rest (a six week journey!) and then fitted back together again (they obviously had a lot of time on their hands back then).

We could have tried a whole list of touristy type adventures laid out for people wanting the whole experience – gold panning, the Digging Museum, a whirl through a variety of churches, a house museum that survives as a living example of the lifestyle of the town’s original general dealer, but we chose instead to hive off to the town’s historic cemetery.

Set at the top of a hill, overlooking the town, the cemetery is the site of early graves of the town’s residents. We were one of the only visitors to the town who bothered to trek up there, but it’s worth it because of one grave. Known as the Robber’s grave, it lies the opposite way to everyone else’s. Poor man, his crime was no worse than to have stolen other people’s tents from them, but for his sins, he was shot by someone and buried in a way that everyone would remember him (I’ll say nothing about today’s law and order, shall I).

Once we thought we had the town scouted, we headed out on the Panorama Route, also known as the R532 – the northern parts thereof. It’s a famous route that takes in what must be Mpumalanga’s treasure trove – God’s Window, Berlin Falls, Bourke’s Luck Potholes, the Blyde River Canyon and the Three Rondavels. Continue on and the route also incorporates the Maria Shires Waterfall, Mac Mac Falls, Sabie River Gorge, and the Long Tom Pass.

Each of these wonders is worth a stop for the spectacular scenery. Pity we had but four days to explore before returning to the city. But such is life …

Useful Links:
Pilgrims Rest Attractions
Pilgrims Rest Accommodation
Pilgrims Rest Hotels
Mpumalanga Hotels

Photo Credits:
Photographs of Pilgrim’s Rest are Courtesy of and © South African Tourism.

It’s a common misconception that just about all of Cape Town sprang into existence only when European settlers planted their first steps on our shores. While it is true that most of our early architecture and civil systems can be attributed to these intrepid travellers, there was life before Jan van Riebeeck – evidence of which was discovered at Kirstenbosch (among, of course, many other places) in the form of pear-shaped stone implements and digging sticks. It’s not much, but it’s the earliest record of the site.

Following whichever mysterious stone-tool-wielding people were there first came the Dutch in the 17th century, who planted a hedge of wild almond and bramble to demarcate the edge of the newly settled colony, parts of which exist to this day and are known as Van Riebeeck’s hedge. The forests on site were mostly harvested for timber during this period.

Sadly, any hard record of the provenance of the name has been lost. Authorities believe it to have some connection to Kirsten, a fairly common family name in the area at the time and indeed that of the land’s manager in the 1700s, one JF Kirsten, which seems logical given the literal translation of Kirstenbosch as Kirsten’s Forest.

British colonialists followed on the heels of the Dutch, and during their occupation two large grants of this land were made – one to Colonel Bird, the other to a Henry Alexander, both of whom built houses on the property, though the Colonel is also credited with the construction of the bath in the area known as the Dell. Sometimes referred to as the Bird Bath, because of the Colonel’s supposed hand in its construction as well as its shape, this sunken pool at the spring of the Liesbeeck river within the Dell is more commonly known as Lady Anne Barnard’s Bath. The wife of a colonial secretary, Lady Anne is most famously known for her published travel diaries of life in the Cape and for her authorship of the ballad Auld Robin Gray. However, she is also more infamously remembered here for her scandalous habit of bathing nude at the Cape of Good Hope Castle, and is rumoured to have indulged the habit while on a picnic at the bath at Kirstenbosch.

Fast forward to 1823, in which both properties were taken over by the Ecksteen family, who later passed the land on to the Cloete family, a clan who farmed the area as well as planting oaks, fruit trees and vines. And of course, one cannot delve too deep into bits of the Cape’s history without stumbling upon our favourite erstwhile character, Sir Cecil John Rhodes. The illustrious colonialist purchased the Cloete family’s property in 1895 – only to let it fall into ruin at the, er, trotters of a herd of pigs, who fed on the masses of fallen acorns and wallowed in the area’s muddy pools. Luckily for the Garden, Rhodes died in 1902, upon which event he bequeathed Kirstenbosch to the people of the Cape as part of his Groot Schuur estate. Thanks Cecil.

Another historical personage deserving of our gratitude is Professor H Pearson, a botanist from Cambridge University who came to South Africa in 1903 to fill the Chair of Botany at the South African College (now UCT). Professor Pearson deemed the land a suitable site for the construction of a botanic garden, and in 1913 took on the directorship of the project, despite there being no salary provision in the £1 000 per annum government grant. Nonetheless, living in severely reduced and difficult circumstance, the Prof set about the mammoth task of taming the overgrown estate, coming up against such obstacles as the ruins of the Cloete homestead, orchards overrun with weeds, a Bath all but obscured by bush and, of course, the free-ranging piggies. Founded with the idea of preserving the country’s unique flora, Kirstenbosch became the first botanic garden in the world with this ethos – one that survives to this day, with only indigenous plants cultivated in the Garden.

Sadly, the dear old Prof died from pneumonia in 1916 at the age of 46, probably due to his less-than-ideal living conditions. He is buried in the Garden, his epitaph reading, ‘If ye seek his monument, look around’ – a prophetic statement given that some of the cycads he planted in the Dell are still flourishing today.

Since that time, a great deal of construction has been concluded on the Garden, using Table Mountain stone for cobbling, curbing, and the building of wells, rockeries and stone features. Though any work done nowadays is, of course, mechanised, much of the early stages of development were completed manually – with the help of trolleys and donkeys. The area of developed garden has steadily increased to its current, rather impressive size, and the Kirstenbosch Garden now enjoys its incarnation as a tourist attraction and botanist’s bolthole. Guided walks are offered, as well as self-guide headsets, for those who want to learn about the diverse plant life, and the tea room, restaurant, gift shop, craft markets and summer sunset concerts pull thousands of visitors through the gates every year.

Over time, the objectives and mission of the Garden’s management have evolved and changed, though there has always been a focus on the appreciation and preservation of South Africa’s exceptionally rich plant life. So next time you’re enjoying a picnic on the sprawling lawns, spare a thought for the Garden’s history and historical characters by taking some time to appreciate the beauty around you – and the absence of any curly-tailed fellow picnickers.

Hours and fees:
The Garden is open 365 days a year.
Summer from 08h00 to 19h00 (September to March)
Winter from 08h00 to 18h00 (April to August).

Useful Links:
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens
Kirstenbosch Photo Gallery
Kirstenbosch Summer Concerts
Newlands Accommodation
Claremont Accommodation

Outeniqua Country Hop

One could be forgiven for thinking that the ‘country hop’ is some sort of quaint rural dance, but the Outeniqua country hop in the Garden Route is a tourist route, initiated by a group of local women to help put local trade in and around George on the map. The clever play on the term ‘hop’ was inspired by the abundance of hops growing in the area, a plant used in the manufacturing of beer, and unique to this region in South Africa.

We picked up signs for the Hop on the R404, as we drove out of George. With two young boys in tow, I was taken with the icon of the tractor, which accompanies the hop signs, since a tractor ride in any guise would provide my boys with a lot of excitement! The icon however appeared to be more of a symbol than a reality, although clearly much of the beautiful scenery through which one passes is working farmland.

Red Berry Farm

Our first stop was the Red Berry strawberry farm, which is located in an area called Geelhoutboom. Having been strawberry picking in the greater Cape Town and surrounds, I did not think that this was an activity in which we would partake. However my six-year-old was clearly keen and so he and his father, tub in hand, (they measure by tub size rather than mass here) popped off in search of those red berries.

My younger son was quickly attracted to the lovely playground activities and we managed to fill the picking time quite easily, by exploring jungle gyms and feeding the resident bunnies. What makes this strawberry farm different is its wonderful restaurant and garden area, which Cape Town farms seem to lack, and a place to munch those hard picked strawberries. I noted that many elected to order scones and cream to accompany their pickings! The shop also boasts a number of strawberry related products from jams to yoghurts, coulis and juices.

Father and son returned very pleased with their harvest and the strawberries were indeed as tasty as they looked! The location definitely filled up towards lunch time and it is clearly a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. Visiting on a Friday we noticed preparations underway for a weekend strawberry festival. However given the size of marquees and anticipated activity, I was glad that we had visited on a less frenetic day!

Silver Lily Cheese Farm

On our way out I noted that we could also visit a mushroom farm, which I am sure would have provided an interesting insight into the growth of mushrooms, should I have been more partial to the taste of these little fungi!

Our next stop was the Silver Lily cheese farm, a Dutch style farm situated on the Geelhoutboom road. A tour was on the go for the resident school children, which includes the process of cheese making, but we popped around the back to the tasting room, to see what was on offer.

Cheese tasting can be accompanied by a glass of wine, and a variety of mainly hard cheeses is on offer, including a number of herb, garlic and smoked varieties. The cheeses are certainly not cheap, but tasty, and it is encouraging to support a local supplier.

Village of Herold

The Outeniqua Hop begins in Herold’s Bay, a rather upmarket seaside cove – if property prices were anything to go by – and passes through Geelhoutboom, the location of the strawberry and cheese farms, to ascend the Montagu Pass, to the little village of Herold, which boasts its own wine farm.

(There’s a beautiful map by the way on http://www.outeniquacountryhop.co.za)

Hops is abundant on the route and grows in creeper form, scrambling up rather complex string structures. The creepers grow at an alarming rate of 100 mm a day and the cones are harvested during February and March.

I suspect that during this time, tractors would be in abundance!

Useful Links:
George Attractions
Things to Do in George
George Hotels
George Accommodation

Bloubergstrand

It is a humbling experience watching a child have their first experience of the beach, something that I as a Capetonian often take for granted. My cousin and her 13 month old son came down to Cape Town from Johannesburg for a visit.

The day they arrived was quite a typical summer’s day, hot with a bit of wind and we decided that it would be a great opportunity to go down to the beach, after all the little guy could have his first taste (literally) of the beach sand and see the sea …

We took a drive down to Bloubergstrand and parked in the parking lot near the Dolphin Beach Complex, which I might add is home to the Blowfish Restaurant which serves delicious sushi and seafood. The wind can be quite strong in this part of Cape Town and this makes it great for some, but unpleasant for others. It is clearly visible that the kite surfers find this area fantastic by the vast number of them you will find on almost any given day.

View of Table Mountain

Nonetheless we braved the wind, wrapped some towels around us and proceeded along. The little guy was absolutely mesmerised by the beach sand and promptly sat down on it and poured it through his fingers almost immediately as his feet touched the sand.

Once we had moved him out of the way of all the foot traffic and found a spot to sit, he tasted the sand and looked quite pleased with himself. All the while fixing his eyes on the various, colourful canopies of the number of kite’s in the sky and around him on the beach.

We decided to walk him down to the sea so that he could stick his toes in the water. This little guy walked with no fear headed straight for the cold crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean while holding mom’s hand and almost pulling her forward. Squealing with delight as the end of the waves ran over his toes it was definitely a fun experience.

Kitesurfers

Next, we decided to head down the paved walkway for a stroll so that we were not in the way of the kite flyers who were flying large kites at the waters edge. We had a lovely view of Table Mountain and all the kite surfers who were performing a number of tricks in the water. To round off the afternoon we treated ourselves to a soft serve ice cream from the Milky Lane.

If you are wondering how to spend a lazy afternoon the I suggest making your way down to Bloubergstrand where you can find a sheltered spot and work on that summer tan, take a stroll along the beach or just find a quiet spot and watch the various activities happening on the beach and in the waves. This turned out to be such a special day and will be etched into my memory forever. Why not go and make your own memories?

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Bloubergstrand Attractions
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Blaauwberg Attractions & Info
Things to Do in Blaauwberg

Photo Gallery

Click on thumbnails to view …

Useful Links:
Visit Greg’s website at http://www.greglumley.com/ or contact Greg on Telephone: +27 (0)83 604-0107.

Cape Floral Kingdom

Here in South Africa, we’re really quite proud of all the cool stuff our country has to offer. You’ve heard us wax lyrical about our mountains, our game reserves, our wildlife, our beaches, and just gush in general about South Africa’s natural beauty (not to mention its world-class hotels, restaurants, bars, nightlife…).

So small wonder that here’s yet another part of the country we want to tell you about: The Cape Floral Kingdom.

Of the six floral kingdoms in the world, ours might be the smallest, but, as the old adage goes, it’s not the size that matters. You see … it’s also the only floral kingdom occurring entirely within one country.

Yep … it’s all ours.

King Protea

The Cape Floral Kingdom is comprised of eight protected areas encompassing some 550 000 hectares of land between the Cape Peninsula and the Eastern Cape. That’s quite a garden, so why go to all the trouble of protecting it? Well, botanically speaking, the region is ‘of outstanding universal significance’ – so says Unesco, who declared it a National Heritage Site in 2004, thanks to some pretty staggering statistics. Get ready for some numbers …

Of the 9 600 species of plant in the Kingdom, at least 70% are endemic, meaning it has more types of indigenous plants than any other place on earth. And its diversity is almost unreal: though the region occupies less than half a percent of South Africa’s total surface area, it is home to nearly 20% of its flora. The Table Mountain section alone boasts more different plant species than there are in the entire United Kingdom (so our Kingdom’s cooler than yours!).

Disa Uniflora

The Cape Floral Kingdom is composed mostly of fynbos (meaning ‘fine bush’ in Afrikaans and referring to the fine, needle-like leaves of many species), a biome (that’s basically science talk for a really big family) that is endemic to the region. It is these particular plants that give the region its impressive biodiversity bragging rights, as well being interesting in their own right.

Fynbos species are pretty unique in their reproductive and fire-adaptive strategies, making the Cape Floral Kingdom incredibly valuable to science. Because the hardy little shrubs are prone to burning, seeds only germinate after feeling the intense heat of a fire – Charles Darwin would’ve been really proud.

Incidentally, the Cape Floral Kingdom also happens to be strikingly beautiful. So even if all this information means nothing to you, you really need to get yourself out and into the fynbos to see what we mean. Conveniently (isn’t nature

Pincushion Proteas

ever so accommodating?) you can see and walk in the Cape Floral Kingdom in a number of areas in and around Cape Town. Going up Table Mountain? Visiting the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens? Taking a drive down to Cape Point? Take a look around you … and welcome to the Cape Floral Kingdom.

The full serial Heritage Site comprises:

• Table Mountain National Park
• De Hoop Nature Reserve
• The Boland mountain complex
• Groot Winterhoek wilderness area
• The Swartberg mountains
• Boosmansbos wilderness area
• Cederberg wilderness area
• Baviaanskloof (which straddles the Western Cape and Eastern Cape boundary.)

Sadly about 1 700 species of fynbos are threatened to some extent with extinction, thanks to human activity such as agricultural clearing and the emission of greenhouse gasses.

Tread lightly.

Useful Links
South Africa World heritage sites
Western Cape Attractions
Western Cape Accommodation

Named for the Dutch East India Company, the gardens were established by Jan van Rieebeck in the 1650’s as a fresh produce garden for the purpose of re-victualling ships and providing Cape Town’s colonists with veggies. They have been luring visitors through their gates since their current incarnation as a botanical garden and public park in 1848. A wander around the Gardens’ limits will bring you into contact with sprawling lawns, fountains, fish ponds, a Japanese rose garden, an aviary, a sun dial and the country’s oldest cultivated pear tree, among other botanically and historically important plant-life.

Oh and squirrels. Whether you think they’re cute and cuddly, or rats in better outfits, prepare to encounter them. Many visitors enjoy feeding the Gardens’ permanent residents, which means it’s a fairly friendly, curious kind of critter you’ll see bounding about.

The Gardens also bear testament to South Africa’s history in the form of large statues scattered along the pathways, including one of historical colonist and capitalist Cecil John Rhodes, about whom South Africans are divided in feeling (some think he was an exploitative racist, others a national hero). There are also various monuments to South African heroism during WWI.

But it’s not just pretty plants and some big ol’ bronze guys you’ll find here. When you tire of sunlit wanderings in the lush park, head inside to the Iziko South African National Gallery. Considering the Gallery’s history began with a bequest of 45 paintings presented in 1871, its current outstanding collections of South African, African, British, Dutch, French and Flemish art are truly impressive. Constantly changing temporary exhibitions keep things fresh and make it well worth a regular visit. Be sure to visit the Gallery Shop, which sells the best in traditional and contemporary South African craft, including basketry, ceramics and wire- and beadwork. (Open 10am – 5 pm Tuesday to Sunday. Entrance is R15 per person).

The Gardens also house the Iziko South African Museum, founded in 1897, which boasts a collection of one and a half million specimens of scientific value (although of course only a fraction of this number is on display). It might not have fancy interactive exhibits or moving parts, but a wander through the Museum’s hallowed halls leaves one with a greater understanding of the earth’s biological and cultural diversity, both past and present. (Open 10 am – 5 pm daily. Entrance is R15 per person).

Earth too close to home for you? Pop next door to the Iziko Planetarium for what’s billed as ‘the ultimate armchair travel – a trip through the vast wonders of outer space, projected onto the domed auditorium in a recreation of the night sky. (Daily shows. R20 per person, R6 for children. R10 Adult chaperone at children’s show).

And of course, what would a Cape Town tourist attraction be without somewhere to get something to eat? Do yourself a favour and go and enjoy warm, homemade apple pie under the eaves of towering old trees at the Company Gardens Tearoom.

Company Gardens Photographs – Click thumbnails to enlarge:

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Cape Town Attractions
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Constantia may lay claim to Kirstenbosch (admittedly gorgeous, but over a weekend it is inundated) but Plumstead (well, okay, Grassy Park) has a unique eco spot in the city where you can see hippos, a part of the world where hippos were once a plenty …

Besides, it’s not as if Kirstenbosch made it into the recent Rough Guides’ Clean Breaks – 500 new ways to see the world! Up there with ‘must do’s’ like the Natural heritage at Isimangaliso Wetland Park, Kayak with whales in Plettenberg Bay and take an eco-wine tour (Green Mountain Eco Route), one of the 50 or so clean breaks for Southern Africa was – see hippos near Cape Town.

Photograph by g-hat on Flickr.com (creative commons license).

It is possible to see big game whilst in Cape Town. Rondevlei Nature Reserve in Grassy Park (that’s just across the M5 from Southfield) boasts the only resident hippo population in the Cape. The two nature reserves lie side-by-side, although to reach Seekoevlei, you need first to drive out of Rondevlei and around to the Seekoevlei entrance gate; they are not connected, unfortunately. But the proximity of Seekoevlei adds an even greater body of water to Rondevlei.

Rondevlei has some of the most spectacular views. Close to the sea here, you are surrounded by water with clear views of the range of mountains that dominate the southern suburbs of Cape Town. This protected area is 2km² of wetland and lake, and a seriously great place to be first thing in the morning, when the sun still glints off spiders’ webs and the calls of water birds rent the air.

It’s also the time of day when people are least likely to disturb you, and you are free to stroll along the pathways that lead from one bird hide to another (six hides in all). Ibis, herons, gannets, egrets, even kingfishers (we spotted one just next to us on a path one morning) make this their home. Aside from the 230 different types of birds, there are also very visible mongooses and other little reptiles, as well as the big guys – hippos (although try as you might, they are particularly illusive, unless you count spotting their fecial matter right on the path as ’seeing’ them).

No, unfortunately hippos are not the tubby, friendly fellows portrayed in disney movies. The third-largest living land mammal they might be, but because of their tendency to hide-out in the water, hippos (unlike elephants and white rhinos) are particularly difficult to see. Hippopotamus actually means ‘river horse’ with a mouth that opens up to four feet wide, so it’s probably just as well that they prefer anonymity.

They’re also related to camels, whales and deer, interestingly, and spend just about all day in the water (they can stay submerged, if you were wondering, for up to 30 minutes, but usually stay under for around 5 minutes). It’s only really at night, after sunset, that they’ll leave the water behind and come up to the land to munch a few things. They also make more than a few grunting and screaming sounds whilst underwater to communicate with one another, hence their relation to whales.

They eat mainly grasses and reeds (plenty of that at Rondevlei) and are largely nocturnal feeders. And they use their excrement to mark their territories, flinging it around with their tails, which explains the rather liberal doses we found on the path early one morning.

There are two lookout towers at Rondevlei that may give you an advantage over the hippo, allowing you to spot the odd head should it emerge (although we’ve yet to see one). And Imvubu Nature Tours is a community-based tourism company based at Rondevlei that arranges island bush camps, boat trips to find the hippos and a couple of guided nature walks that take you through Rondevlei’s ‘medicine cabinet’ of indigenous vegetation.

Here’s to spotting a hippo!

Useful Links:
Cape Town Nature Reserves
Cape Town Attractions
Cape Town Bed & Breakfasts
Western Cape Accommodation

Featherbed Nature Reserve

Nestled on the undeveloped western headland of the Knysna lagoon sits the piece of untouched paradise known as Featherbed Private Nature Reserve – the Garden Route’s premier eco-tourism spot.

The lagoon is more accurately termed a river estuary, filled by five freshwater rivers that flow out of the Outeniqua Mountains to meet the saltwater of the Indian Ocean. It’s watched over by the forbidding sandstone cliffs known as the Knysna Heads. Ecologically speaking, the area is very important, home to indigenous flora and endangered fauna – hence the necessity of its preservation and its status as a South African National Heritage site …

Featherbed Nature Reserve

The reserve takes its name from Featherbed Bay, a tranquil spot off the river mouth where ships would weigh anchor so sailors could have a peaceful night’s sleep after months at sea. In comparison to rough nights on the ocean, the night in the sheltered bay was like sleeping on a featherbed – hence the name. The western headland and its reserve at the river mouth are equally peaceful, in comparison with the commercially developed eastern Head.

Featherbed has a Professor JLB Smith to thank for its pristine condition, the same erudite scholar who discovered the coelacanth, a fish previously believed to have been extinct for 180 million years. The Professor purchased and preserved the first piece of land that would eventually become Featherbed, a legacy continued after his death by his son, William Smith (the well-known Learning Channel guru).

Featherbed Nature Reserve

Fancy visiting this oasis of unspoiled wilderness? The Featherbed Company offers a daily, four-hour tour, beginning with a half hour lagoon cruise departing from the Featherbed Ferry Terminus off Waterfront Drive in Knysna. You’ll be driven by 4×4 through the reserve to the top of the mountain, where you’ll alight and indulge in an easy two-kilometre meander back down through the Milkwood forests and along a scenic coastal path, stopping at viewpoints and ancient sea caves along the way.

All that walking’s sure to give you an appetite. Upon returning to sea level you’ll be treated to a scrumptious buffet lunch at the reserve’s Forest Restaurant, perched on the lagoon’s shore in the shade of the abundant Milkwood trees, before heading back across the lagoon to civilisation.

Featherbed Nature Reserve

Featherbed may not be a game reserve – sorry, no big five here; any big game was hunted out decades ago by timber-hungry woodcutters – but it does have a few critters you should watch out for while traversing its forested paths and fynbos-strewn landscapes.

Apart from ubiquitous bush buck and a nocturnal bush pig or so, keep an eye out for tortoises, beautiful Knysna loeries, tiny blue endangered duiker (the smallest antelope in the world), the super-rare black African oyster catcher and, in the bay, dolphins, whales and the endangered Knysna seahorse. Not to mention the indigenous flora that gives this spot its awe-inspiring beauty.

Featherbed Nature Reserve

As well as the tour, the Featherbed Company also operates several lagoon cruises. Enjoy four-star dining aboard the unique Paddle Cruiser, or aboard The John Den, a luxury pleasure cruiser, or take a quick(er) spin around the lagoon and into the Heads themselves on the rivercat Three Legs.

For an outside perspective, the company’s luxury catamaran yacht, Heads Explorer, will take you (weather conditions permitting) past the Heads and onto the open ocean. All of the vessels are equipped to provide you with cash bars, snack bars, a la carte menus or buffet meals, as well as catering for functions.

Speaking of which … tying the knot? Why not make a lasting memory while floating on the lagoon or within the reserve itself, either on the beach, the blue water lapping at your feet, or under the canopy of the ancient Milkwoods?

Useful Links:
Featherbed Nature Reserve Web Site
Garden Route Attractions
Garden Route Hotels
Things to Do in Garden Route

Waverley Hills

Lying at the foot of the Witzenberg Mountains on the R46 between Tulbagh and Ceres, Waverley Hills produces organic wines that are definitely worth sampling. The Du Toit family entered the rather tough organic market in 2000 when they planted 21 hectares of vineyard, and we popped in to visit the estate recently.

Waverley Hills Estate lies on a natural watershed area – both the Breede and Berg River originated here before continuing on to enter two completely different oceans – which more than accounts for the myriad wild flowers and the effortless expanse of grasses at Waverley Hills. It was officially spring (delighted school children had handed out flowers and cards the day before on the streets of Tulbagh) when we rode through the gates, the sun was shining and the dirt road that made its way to the prominent wine cellar building and restaurant was dotted with fynbos.

Waverley Hills Estate

Waverley Hills is an estate about which I had heard. We had already sampled their olives, for they have olive groves too, at one of Cape Town’s myriad food exhibitions, but hadn’t yet savoured their wines, and, even thought it was still early morning and we had a journey ahead of us, a ‘taste’ was not out of the question.

It seemed fitting, given our wonderful, lazy stay in Tulbagh, to end the week on a high note and pop into the estate on the way home (alright, we did go a little out of our way, but the views were worth it!).

Visiting a place never fails to bring it alive, where a website or flyer doesn’t quite do a place justice, and Waverley vineyards and olive groves were no exception. The setting was simply gorgeous, and the views from here worth the drive. The only down side is that the estate doesn’t yet offer accommodation, but then not all estates do, and they do have an alternative place to stay at a farm just up the road.

Waverley Vineyards

Gayle was incredibly informative and it was hard to believe that she was only in the process of writing her wine tasting exam. The restaurant and tasting area are merged into a comfortable, spacious room from which the views necessitate at least one coffee.

But we were in as much of a hurry as one can be, after four days of down time and we lingered over our wines whilst swopping titbits of information with Gayle, one of which was that Waverley Hills exports their wine under the label of Dixon’s Peak, as there is already a European label that calls itself Waverley.

To the side of the tasting area is a photo album in which dozens of pictures of wild flowers and fynbos found on the estate are displayed. Johan van Biljon is responsible for these photos and largely for the gardens and biodiversity areas on the estate – Waverley Hills is part of the BWI (Biodiversity and Wine Initiative) and 16 hectares of the relatively small farm (20% of the total hectarage) are given over to biodiversity.

The Restaurant

There are also a couple of hikes designed to take visitors through these beautiful parts of the estate. The owner, Kobus du Toit, who interestingly is also the only supplier in the country of tartaric acid used in white wines to raise the ph level of the wine (colder climates use sugar), is a firm believer in farming in harmony with nature and only farms his grapes organically, even though they’re a particularly fussy crop and it takes a fair amount of commitment and care to do so.

What was interesting for me was my misconception that all organic wines contain no sulphur. Whilst these organic wines contain less than half the sulphur of conventional wines, they do still contain sulphur (the more sulphur, the longer the shelf life). Waverley Hills produces one sulphur-free Cabernet Sauvignon that we sampled that was rather lovely – a real spring wine, from this year’s harvest.

Waverley Estate

It might be a good moment to mention that despite living in the Cape, I know very little about wine, and contining to wax lyrical at this stage could land me in hot water since I barely know my merlots from my cabernets, so I promise not to try and describe bouquets and flavours, but what I can tell you is that the wine tasted good, and that the Shiraz 2007 was particularly more(ish).

The pretty restaurant, complete with waitress who bares more than a passing resemblance to Heidi (including the plaits), on the estate uses organic produce 80% of the time, as many farm fresh products as they can, and serves organic coffees and teas (although no decaf!). The estate is in the process of building a conference and wedding venue area onto the cellar (there was quite a bit of banging and drilling as we arrived) although the restaurant more than caters for birthdays and office functions, seating up to 50 people.

Waverley Estate Contact Details:
Telephone: +27 (0)23 231-0002 / 3
Web Site: http://www.waverleyhills.co.za/

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Tulbagh Attractions
Things to Do in Tulbagh
Find Accommodation in Tulbagh

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The Palace at the Lost City
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For those of you who, like me, didn’t have a clue that such a thing as National Parks Week existed, then the next seven days are yours to explore the parks that the majority of South Africans probably never get to see – Madikwe, Addo, Richtersveld, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Mountain Zebra, Camdeboo, Tsitsikamma, and even the more recent Garden Route National Park. There are just over 20 different parks (see http://www.sanparks.org/parks/) around the country that fall under SANParks, and each of them is a treasure trove of conservation efforts, and a chance to see animals and plants of every hue in their natural environment.

Here follow three of my favourite parks. These are by no means the best parks, as they are all equally worth a visit, but two of them are a little less popular, and well worth seeing because of their uniqueness:

Addo Elephant Park

Addo Elephant National Park
Why visit it?
• home to the Big 7
• see one of the most dense African elephant populations on earth
• home to the flightless dung beetle
• the largest coastal dune field in the southern hemisphere
• self-drive and horse trail options

Fast becoming one of the major reasons why tourists visit South Africa, the Addo Elephant National Park, as its name suggests, is the place in the Eastern Cape to commune with  over 400 elephants, at a relatively safe distance, of course, although you can do the park on the back of an elephant, horse or even walk – you’re certainly not limited to remaining within your vehicle.

What makes it so popular is the easy proximity to Port Elizabeth and the fact that it’s malaria free. The environment too is incredibly beautiful, as the park lies within the Sundays River valley and contains five of the seven major biomes or vegetation areas in South Africa. Addo also boasts all Big 7 animals – buffalo, elephant, lion, leopard, rhinoceros, whale and great white shark, and now includes the Woody Cape Nature Reserve, which encompasses Bird Eland – home to the world’s largest breeding population of Cape gannets, and the second largest breeding population of African penguins.

Camdeboo National Park

Camdeboo National Park
Why visit it?
• Valley of Desolation
• incredible scenery
• home to the bat-eared fox
• the quaint town of Graaff-Reinet

This is one of my all time favourite parks, and one of the lesser known or popular parks – and may it stay that way! For a start, I love the way the name rolls off the tongue and the image that it evokes in me (if you’ve read Etienne van Heerden’s The Long Silence of Mario Salviatti you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about). The word Camdeboo developed out of a similar sounding word in the Khoi language meaning ‘green pool’ or ‘green hippo pool’ and it goes a long way to describing this incredible fertile valley in the midst of the Karoo, complete with impressive mountains.

Camdeboo National Park encircles the town of Graaff-Reinet and provides some of the most breath-taking scenery of the region. The major part of the now 19 405 hectare park lies in the foothills of the Sneeuberg range, but one of the main reasons for visiting the park is the Valley of Desolation, also known as the ‘Cathedral of the Mountains’. There is something bordering on spiritual about this valley. How can one not stand in awe when perched, the vast Karoo plains spread before one, on the pinnacle of enormous dolerite columns that stand up to 120 metres high. One’s part in the greater scheme of things is immediately put into perspective.

The Valley of Desolation became a national monument in 1935 and the Camdeboo National Park fell under the management of SANParks only in 2005, with 14 500 hectares of land was donated by the WWF for Nature. The park is a haven for hikers, with a number of day walks and overnight trails, as well as a fair amount of game. For day visitors there are picnic sites and braai areas (although watch out for the ‘long drop’ toilet).

Namaqua National Park

Namaqua National Park
Why visit it?
• flower power
• Namaqualand daisies
• gazanias, tulips, pelargoniums and beetle daisies etc.
• the world’s smallest tortoise, the Namaqua speckled padloper

Incorporating the reserve known simply as Skilpad amongst flower fundis or Skilpad Wild Flower Reserve, the Namaqua National Park at this time of the year is, without sounding dramatic, simply one of the most beautiful places to be, if standing on a carpet of wild flowers is your thing (it’s really anyone’s ‘thing’ if you but see it!).

Namaqualand is the place of the richest bulb flora of any arid region in the world. Over 1000 of the plant species here, it is estimated, are not found anywhere else on the planet. Oh, and there are beautiful quiver trees, incredible granite outcrops, beautiful succulents, the chances of seeing a porcupine, and the odd scorpion. But really people travel here in August / September to see the flowers that give even the incredible star-studded night skies a run for their money.

Useful Links:
SAN Parks Official Website
South Africa Game Reserves
South Africa Accommodation

Lion's Head

Lion’s Head lies between Table Mountain and Signal Hill, the latter of which it combines with to form a sphinx-like shape – hence its name, originally bestowed by the 17th century Dutch settlers, who called the rearing head-like peak Leeuwen Kop and the gentle slope of Signal Hill Leeuwen Staart (Lion’s tail). For inexplicable reasons, the 17th century British dubbed the mountain Sugar Loaf. We’re glad it didn’t stick.

Rising up 669 metres above sea level, Lion’s Head offers some spectacular panoramic views. From its summit you can cast your eyes over the Cape Town city bowl, Table Bay, the Atlantic seaboard (including dazzling Camps Bay and Clifton) and, on a clear day, right out to Robben Island.

City Bowl Views

Of course, if it’s a view you want, it’s a bit of walking you’ll need to do – there’s no swift cableway ride to the top I’m afraid. However, therein lies half the fun. Hiking up Lion’s Head can take anywhere between one and three hours, depending on whether you’re a brisk power-hiker or more of a stop-and-enjoy-nature meanderer.

The somewhat steep walk winds its way around the Head until you reach a collection of chains, there to aid your scramble up the remaining rocky faces to the top. Of course, if you’re not feeling very Indiana Jones you can always take the slightly longer path which continues its wend up to the summit.

Atlantic Seaboard Views

Speaking of rocky faces … the mountain’s lower slopes are composed of Cape Granite and other Precambrian foundations, while its upper slopes are formed from Table Mountain sandstone. Indigenous fynbos (shrub-like plants native to the Western Cape) covers the landscape, which supports a variety of small animals.

Hiking in general is all very well, but for something a little out of the ordinary you can’t miss out on the full moon walks. Pack a picnic basket and set off up the mountain in the late afternoon, then enjoy the fruits of your labour while dining atop the summit and watching not only a spectacular sunset from across one ocean, but also the moon rising over another behind you. It’s a little occult, a lot romantic, and a thoroughly unique experience. Just remember to pack flashlights and tread carefully on the way back down. Alternatively, you can join a group walk, which (for an almost negligible fee) offers safety in numbers and the benefit of walking with experienced hikers.

Or you could get really adventurous – Lion’s Head is a favourite launching site for paragliders. A quick hike up the mountain, an incredible bird’s-eye-view soar above Cape Town, and a soft landing on beautiful Camps Bay beach for post-flight sundowners … not much can top that. Newbies can book a tandem flight with an instructor.

So go on, take a walk on the Lion side …

Lion’s Head forms part of the Table Mountain National Park, which means that although it is surrounded by city and suburbs on all sides, building on the higher ground is not permitted, thus preserving the range’s beauty for everybody. It also means tread lightly – don’t litter, be mindful of smoking, and respect the mountain.

Useful Links:
Cape Town Hiking
Western Cape Hiking Trails
Western Cape Attractions
Western Cape Accommodation

Photograph of Green Point Stadium taken on 9 September 2009 by Blyzz.

Photograph of the Green Point Stadium also by Blyzz taken on 15 August 2009:

Looking Spectacular! Our thanks to this talented photographer for making his photographs available for download under a creative commons license so that we could share them with our readers. Please visit his photostream at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/blyzz/. There are many, many beautiful photographs taken in and around Cape Town. We love his work!

Links:
More about the Green Point Stadium …
Green Point Stadium Flickr.com Gallery
Green Point Visitors Centre
Green Point Stadium

The Madikwe Game Reserve in South Africa has the distinction of being one of the few game reserves in the world to be proclaimed purely on the grounds of being the most appropriate and sustainable land use for an area. Madikwe consists of vast plains of open woodlands and grasslands and bordered in the south by the Dwarsberg Mountains. The area is dotted with huge rocky hills or inselbergs (ecological description). The entire Madikwe reserve has been enclosed in a 150 km perimeter fence which has been electrified to prevent the escape of elephants and the larger predators.

Madikwe is a “Big Five” game reserve situated 90 km north of Zeerust. Covering some 60 000 hectare, it is one of the largest game reserves in South Africa. The rich diversity of vegetation ensures a wide range of game and the topography offers ideal game viewing opportunities.

The reserve at Madikwe is divided into two main areas. The area north of the Molatedi Dam is fenced and stocked with all the historically indigenous wild animals ­ including elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard and buffalo. As part of future developments for the park, the dam area will be fenced separately and stocked with smaller, non dangerous animals, thus allowing free movement of tourists and maximum utilisation of the dam.

The reintroduction of game began early in 1991, shortly before the perimeter fence had been completed. Operation Phoenix, as the reintroduction programme is called, is the largest game translocation exercise in the world. More than 8 000 animals of 28 species have so far been released into the reserve, including elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion, cheetah, Cape hunting dog, spotted hyena, giraffe, zebra and many species of antelope and herbivores. Leopard already occurred in the reserve.

Useful Links:
For more information please see:
Madikwe Game Reserve
Madikwe Game Reserve Accommodation
North West Province Game Reserves

Tugela Falls

The Tugela Falls
Located in the Drakensberg, and part of the Tugela River, these falls are the world’s second highest waterfall and drop a total of 950 meters in five cascades (also making the Tugela Falls the highest cascade of falls in the world).

During the winter months, the upper Tugela Falls can freeze, forming ice pillars – a sight not often seen in sunny South Africa! …

The source of the mighty Tugela River is at Mont-Aux-Sources, a few kilometres from the falls.

The Tugela is the largest river in KwaZulu Natal and from the Drakensberg meanders for 502 kilometres through the Midlands before flowing into the Indian Ocean in Zululand.

Howick Falls

The Howick Falls
Howick is a small town in the Natal Midlands, and it’s most famous for its falls.

The Howick Falls were most likely first seen by European explorers in the early 19th century as transport riders and wagon trains cut routes inland from the coast.  Many of these pioneers were swept over the falls to their death as they tried to cross the river.

The Umgeni River plunges 95m into a pool below, and according to legend, the pool at the bottom of the falls is home to a giant, serpent like creature known as Inkanyamba. Only sangomas can approach the falls and offer prayers to the ancestral spirits.

The Howick Falls are easily accessed from Pietermaritzburg (24 kms away), Karkloof and Lions River.

Mac Mac Falls

The Mac Mac Falls
The Mac Mac Falls in the province of Mpumalanga are 65 metres high, and have been declared a National Monument. The waterfall was originally a single stream, but gold hungry Scotsmen, hoping for an easier grasp of the reef over which the river streamed, and therefore an easier grasp of the precious gold the reef contained, dynamited the river in an attempt to divert its flow.  The result is today’s spectacular twin waterfalls, a favourite spot for photographers.

These falls are the only waterfalls in South Africa linked to the historic South African gold rush of the 19th century, hence their national monument status.

The Mac Mac Falls are only 13km from the Lowveld town of Sabie, and are well worth a visit if you are in this area.

Augrabies Falls

The Augrabies Falls
Probably the most impressive falls in South Africa, the Augrabies Falls are located about 120km downstream of Upington on the Orange River.  The river, after flowing slowly along sandy soils begins to move through a massive canyon and then descends through a ravine to the main gorge.  Here, the falls drop, through a series of cataracts to a rock enclosed pool 200 metres below.

The pool below the falls is impossible to reach and has therefore given rise to several legends.  Some believe it contains a fortune in diamonds; washed down the river over the years, and others believe the pool is home to South Africa’s very own Loch Ness Monster!

The word augrabies comes from the Khoi word meaning ‘the noisy one’ and this is very apt if one is to visit the falls.

Photo Credits:
All photos used in this article are courtesy of and © SA Tourism.

Useful Links:
South Africa Attractions
Things to Do in South Africa
Find Accommodation in South Africa

Online tickets are available from www.tablemountain.net and are valid for seven days after purchase. During the seven-day period, full refunds are available, or you can extend your ticket for a further three weeks and forego a refund.

Online tickets are available from R145 per adult return and R76 per child return, plus R10 administrative fee each. The admin fee is non-refundable. Rates are valid until September 30. From October 1 to September 30, 2010, visitors will pay R160 per adult return and R80 per child return, plus a R10 administrative fee each.

To entice you a little more … this is what you can expect at the top (click thumbnails to view enlargements)

Photographs courtesy of and © Stefani and Iain

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For more info about Table Mountain please see:
Table Mountain
Table Mountain photographs
Table Mountain hiking trails
Table Mountain National Park
Cape Town Hotels
Cape Town Accommodation

Mandela Square

Situated in the heart of Sandton Central, in Johannesburg, the Nelson Mandela Square is surrounded by world-class hotels and restaurants. The popular Sandton City Shopping Centre is adjacent to the Square and is a shopper’s paradise.

Sandton Square made headlines in 2004 when, as commemorating South Africa’s first decade of democracy, a specially donated six metre bronze statue of Nelson Mandela was unveiled, and the square aptly renamed Nelson Mandela Square at Sandton City. The statue was sculpted by Kobus Hattingh and Jacob Maponyane and weighs over 2.5 tons measuring 2.3 metres from elbow to elbow. The shoulders of the statue are 1.7 metres in width and the shoes are 1 metre in length.

Mandela Square

The intention of this statue is not only to honour the former president’s vision of a free and just South Africa, but also to create a focal point where local and foreign tourists can reflect over the events that led to the creation of the Rainbow Nation. Here, you will always see tourists trying to get a photo of themselves standing next to this tall statue. Visitors can be inspired whilst enjoying a few talks and tours.

An already fashionable area with its sidewalk cafes, fine dining and some 93 exclusive shops, Nelson Mandela Square has become one of the most popular venues in South Africa. Its prime location in the heart of Sandton allows easy access to the financial district, the Sandton Convention Centre, superlative hotels in Sandton and Sandton City’s 295 spectacular shops. The Square was designed to bring to life an Italian styled piazza under the African sky …

For a shopping delight, a gastronomic experience at any one of the world class restaurants or just a historical learning experience, a trip to Nelson Mandela Square is an absolute must! Whatever your reason for visiting Johannesburg, experience Nelson Mandela Square at Sandton City for yourself. You will find it just perfect.

Flickr Slideshow:
View a slideshow of photographs of Mandela Square incuding the statue of Nelson Mandela at: Mandela Square at Flickr.com

Useful Links:
Sandton Attractions
Things to Do in Sandton
Sandton Accommodation

If you’re looking for unusual and you have a ‘thing’ for fat plants (more commonly known as succulents, and who is not attracted by these water-retaining plants, some of which come equipped with water-saving features, and manage to survive in arid climates?) then Soekershof belongs on your list of things to do …

Just 10 kilometres east of Robertson, Soekershof lies in Klaas Voogds West – 10 hectares of amazing mazes, a cactus labyrinth, a tree of growing creativity, the world’s largest hedge-maze, a stone-age cinema, a fingerpointing maze, earth sculptures, succulents you didn’t even know existed, and a touch of magic.

As Herman van Bon, the outspoken and sometimes outrageous creator, together with his partner Yvonne de Wit, of this gem on Route 62, says: “no garden stimulates associative minds as much as a succulent garden.”

Essentially Soekershof is a small, private botanical garden that manages to be at once entertaining and educational. It is described by its owners as a sacred enterprise, based on the appreciation of nature, humour, play, creation, expression and respect for the land, and the growth and development of the people and plants that participate.

It is a place of mystery, peace and thrilling interactive discovery. There are over 2 500 different types of succulents, and a nursery too, for those who simply cannot leave without the hope of producing similar somewhere in a patch of their own garden, where you can get personal advice on how best to cultivate your newly acquired organically grown fat plants!

At 11am sharp on days when Soekershof is open – that rules out Monday, Tuesday (unless you’ve prebooked), the last two full weeks of Feb, and in July after the school holidays – there is a maze quest with an introduction by Herman.

Herman describes the Klaas Voogds maze (one of its kind with a surface area of 13 870) as follows: “this maze is not a maze in the traditional sense of getting lost but is a reflection of life; walking from one story into another, which is represented by objects, as orientating points, towering above the hedges. However there are, as in life, also a few ’stories’ you can look out for. And… you are invited to add a few of your own.”

With hours of contemplation and exciting discovery, a trip here is ideal for family outings, garden clubs, photo and film shoots, school outings, team building, weddings, or just about anything, really. Picnics can be arranged ahead of time and include a glass of handcrafted local wine, minus the sulphates!

The visitors’ centre is housed in the oldest existing building between Swellendam and Tulbagh, and includes a collection of handcrafted gifts made by local artists. Soekershof is a Fairtrade organisation and as part of its commitmentvest in local communities it sponsors the Klaas Voogds primary school, including teaching pupils basic horticultural knowledge and skills.

To quote Albert Einstein – “The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and science.”

Contact Details: Located in Klaas Voogds West, Robertson. Telephone: +27 (0)23 626 4134, Website: http://www.soekershof.com

Photo Gallery: Click on the thumbnails to view large photographs of what awaits you at Soekershof.

Useful Links:
For more destination information please visit:

• Robertson Attractions
• Things to Do in Robertson
• Robertson Accommodation

Photo © Umgeni Steam Railway

The Umgeni Steam Railway is the non-profit society behind the thrilling Inchanga Choo Choo – the train that takes its passengers on the first and last Sunday of every month, twice daily, from Kloof to Inchanga Station in KwaZulu Natal, a beautiful colonial station built in 1895, pulled by a steam locomotive called Maureen.

Maureen debuted with the Umgeni Steam Railway after 70 or 80 years’ service with the South African Railways and was originally built by the North British Railway Company in 1912 – no surprise that her capacity for speed has slowed to a limit of 60 kilometres so as not to place her under too much strain …

Photo © Umgeni Steam Railway

One is immediately transported back in time by the sheer exhilaration of the general hustle and bustle as Maureen shunts carriages back and forth, before letting off a mighty blast of steam as she whistles her intention to depart. The train runs along the edge of the beautiful Valley of a Thousand Hills in KwaZulu Natal.

The Choo Choo is the Umgeni Steam Railway’s main stream of revenue with which they fund the restoration and maintenance of their incredible collection of locomotives and rolling stock, and it makes the already exciting trip – particularly if you have children who are totally enthralled by the occasion – that much more worthwhile to think that you’re keeping an old tradition alive.

The Umgeni Steam Railway is largely run by enthusiasts of the steam train who volunteer their time to the organisation. They also run trains from Pietermaritzburg to Baynesfield and Wartburg in the Natal Midlands.

Useful Links:
For destination related information see:
Umgeni Steam Railway – The official website
Valley of 1000 Hills Attractions
Things to Do in Valley of 1000 Hills
KwaZulu Natal Accommodation

Langebaan

After this weeks cold spell, a day at the beach is probably not high on the agenda but summer will roll around again so here are a few of my favourite beaches …

In the Overberg, Nanny’s Beach, also known as Kammabaai, is a well loved Hermanus beach.  A firm favourite for a family day on the beach, Nanny’s Beach has great waves for surfing and body boarding and also has safe swimming for the kids.  Milkwoods provide shade for the picnic and braai spots and to work off your lunch you can climb the many rocks around the beach!

Breakfast Bay, also in Hermanus is sheltered by the high dunes that flank the beach, making it a perfect picnic spot if the day turns out to be a bit breezy!  It’s also very popular with both sunbathers and sandboarders.

Llandudno Beach

Cape Town is blessed with some spectacular beaches, and surely Llandudno must be one of the finest?  Framed by rocky points on either side, the white sand is perfect for lazy hours of sunbathing and beach bat!  The water is often a clear, Mediterranean blue - ideal for a refreshing dip on a hot summer’s day.  The waves at Llandudno are pretty strong; good for surfing but if you are not a confident swimmer its probably wiser to stay closer to shore.

Elands Bay on the West Coast is well known for its beautiful scenery, laid back lifestyle and endless beach.  Famous for its left surfing wave, the Elands Bay beach is internationally recognised as a great surfing beach.  However, if balancing on a moving board is not really your vibe, you could also try rowing, sailing, mountain biking or bird watching.  And if that doesn’t tickle your fancy, just kick back with a bitterly cold glass of something and a freshly grilled crayfish.  What more could you ask for?

Durban Beaches

Moving onto the Garden Route, although Central Beach in Plettenberg Bay is often the busiest of the Plett beaches, Robberg Beach, stretching for kilometres between Robberg Peninsula and Beacon Island is popular and absolutely perfect for long, long, long walks!  Take the dogs down for an early morning stroll and don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled for pansy shells.

The beaches of the old ‘Transkei’, now formally part of the Eastern Cape, are probably not as frequented as ‘mainstream’ beaches but this very special area of South Africa has some remote, rural locations offering gorgeous, empty beaches where there might be more cows on the beach than there are people! 

Possibly my most favourite beach of them all is Zinkwazi Beach on the KwaZulu Natal Dolphin Coast.  The temperature of the sea is perfect all year round, there are shark nets in place and life guards on duty during peak holiday times.  Zinkwazi is an ideal beach for children, offering small, safe swimming channels, loads of rock pools and a lagoon for swimming and water sports.  For the very enthusiastic it’s also possible to walk all the way along the beach to the Tugela River Mouth – but please bear in mind that this is a LONG walk so plenty of drinking water, a hat and sunblock are essential items.

Hurry up Summer!

Useful Links:
For additional, more detailed information about South Africa’s Beaches see:
Cape Town Beaches
Eastern Cape Beaches
KwaZulu Natal Beaches

Soweto

It could only be the can-do spirit of South Africans that took what most people consider to be one of our country’s failings, and turned it into something positive. Township tourism, which took off after our first post-Apartheid elections in 1994, is becoming increasingly more popular, as visitors to the country look for a more ‘authentic’ experience, away from game reserves, Table Mountain, and the usual breathtaking scenery.

The idea is pretty much self-explanatory; visitors are taken on guided tours through South Africa’s townships - historically marginalised communities where non-whites were forced to live during the separatist Apartheid regime. The sprawling, densely overpopulated and poverty-stricken settlements are still home to the majority of South Africa’s people, and are a far cry from the usual shiny commercial tourist hubs such as the V&A Waterfront …

Gugulethu Walking Tour

Of the vast number of townships across South Africa, a handful are tourist-friendly, due to their proximity to cities and established infrastructure. These include Soweto (South Africa’s largest township) in Johannesburg, and Langa (the oldest), Khayelitsha (second largest) and Gugulethu (a shortened version of igugu lethu, which is Xhosa for our pride) in Cape Town. 

Most tours (starting at R350 per person) include guided walks through sections of the low-cost housing and shacks, as well as visits to places of interest, including township schools and sites dedicated to people and events pivotal in the struggle against Apartheid. As you mosey along, check out the local craft stalls for souvenirs, and, if you can stomach it, you could sample a ‘smiley’ - a boiled sheep’s head, the cooking process having stretched back its gums to give the somewhat macabre impression that it’s smiling. Chances are you’ll also run across a sangoma or traditional healer, whose mystical powers and potions guarantee cures for everything from impotence to Aids -  which are taken very seriously by some of the local people.  

Journey of Rememberance

Though there is criticism of township tourism as being voyeuristic, the upshot is that it brings a portion of South Africa’s lucrative tourism sector to the poorest of its people. Local restaurants, bars and craftsmen benefit financially from the tours, and there are even a few guesthouses riding the wave, for the more intrepid traveller who fancies an overnight stay.

Possibly more important than the economic benefits however, is that this brand of tourism opens visitor’s eyes to the reality of the living conditions of much of our population, and the urgent need for its amelioration. At the same time, it shows them a place not just full of poverty and strife, but also full of energy, culture and hope for the future. 

But it’s not all warm and fuzzy. South Africa is still struggling with a serious crime problem, and tourists need to be forewarned about the possible danger involved. Though incidents are few and far between, and in general the communities jealously guard the safety of this enterprise that benefits them so much, it nonetheless pays to be cautious. Aim to take a morning or early afternoon tour, avoid visiting the shebeens (local bars where alcohol was sold illegally) after dark and, most importantly, DO NOT visit the townships on your own - make use of one of the many tour operators and guides available.

Useful Links:
For view Township Tours available and to contact tour guides please see:
Soweto Tours (for tours to Soweto in Johannesburg)
Liziwe’s Tours (for tours to Guguletu and other Cape Town townships)
Take a Journey of Remembrance (On the Journey of Remembrance former freedom fighters take you back to a time when incidents as the Trojan Horse and Gugulethu Seven were common in South Africa).

Richtersveld Landscape

The Richtersveld National Park is arguably one of the most unforgiving landscapes in South Africa. A desert, where rainfall is unheard of for most of the year, and communities are sparsely spread around the vast, sometimes lunar landscapes.

With the park being run by the residents of the area themselves, however, expert experience and advice is on hand, ensuring that any trip to the area will be a memorable one. The Richtersveld is located in Northern Namaqualand, in the Northern Cape, and stretches all the way up to the Orange River, South Africa’s border with Namibia.

Despite the isolation, there is much to see in this rugged, dramatic area which enjoys UNESCO world heritage site status, for those who are willing to take the time to explore. Populated by the San people since prehistoric times, the area is still dotted with their artworks, some almost perfectly preserved despite the passing of the centuries. These engravings, known as petroglyphs, were chipped by the artists into the hard dolomite rocks by hand, using rudimentary tools, and provide some insight into the cultural history of the area.

Another cultural experience is performing the Namastap, a traditional Nama dance, led by descendants of the original inhabitants. This can be arranged through the Eksteenfontein Information centre. Other attractions and activities organized by the centre are hikes and pipe car trips to view gravesites and traditional stock posts, donkey cart rides to and around the Rooiberg (Red Mountain) as well as hiking trails, such as the Ventersval Trail, Lelieshoek Oemsberg Trail and Koedaspiek Trail, which range from 4 days for the former, to 2 days for the latter.

Spring Flowers

Despite the otherworldly, desolate appearance of the landscape at first glance, another draw card for the area is the rather unique plant and animal life to be found here.  the most famous of these must be the Halfmensboom, which translates as “half-person tree”. Local people named the tree  because of its resemblance to the human form and  revere the trees as the embodiment of their ancestors. Other plant life includes around 650 species, including the world’s most prolific collection of succulent species and the Richtersveld is known as one of the most fascinating mega ecosystems in the world.

Since roads are notoriously poor in the Park, access to most areas is by off-road vehicle only, but many organized 4 x 4 trips are available. Visiting during flower season will provide tourists to the area the opportunity to view the spectacular, if brief transformation of the park from a dry desert, into a living carpet of flowers and colour (see Namaqualand Flower Route).

As can be expected, accommodation in the area is mostly rudimentary; however, this offers even more opportunity to get closer to nature. Camping facilities and self catering accommodation are on offer, and can be arranged through local tourism offices.

While this area may lack the hustle and bustle of other tourist attractions, it surely has much to offer visitors in terms of unique fauna and flora, cultural experiences, and sheer natural beauty, and should not be overlooked when planning a trip in South Africa.

View a Flickr slide show of photographs of the Richtersveld: http://www.flickr.com/search/show/?q=richtersveld

Useful Links:
For additional destination information see:
SANParks – Richterveld Transfrontier National Park
Northern Cape Accommodation
Richtersveld Cultural & Botanical Landscape

Apartheid Museum

A massive city and boasting many ‘firsts’, Johannesburg boasts an impressive number of awesome attractions to suit both young and old. First off, the Apartheid Museum is oddly located next to the fun-park thrills of Gold Reef City. This is an essential South African experience which tells the apartheid story with a confronting sensory verve through large, visually stunning displays and excellent audio visual exhibits. For a trip down memory lane or to experience some of South Africa’s sad history, visit the Apartheid Museum (also see http://www.apartheidmuseum.org/).
 
The Hector Pieterson Memorial is another must visit. Through the use of old photographs and video, this museum tells the chilling story of the 1976 student uprisings against the forced use of Afrikaans in South African schools. The exhibit is stark, haunting and sure to leave you with chills down your spine.

A visit to the Market Theatre complex is a worthwhile way to immerse yourself in some South African culture. It’s Johannesburg’s most popular venue for live theatre, and has been at the forefront of non-racial theatre since 1974. The productions here are absolutely outstanding. With 3 theatres, a restaurant and bar and an art gallery, you’re sure to have a great time!

At Gold Reef City

Founded in the 1930s, Museum Africa is housed in the impressive old Bree Street fruit market. This superb exhibition on the Treason Trials (1956-61), which featured most of the important figures in the ‘new’ South Africa, is a must-see for anyone seeking a better understanding of South Africa’s recent history.

Johannesburg is reinventing itself following the long oppressed years of the apartheid system. This means that artists of all persuasions are emerging and there is an incredibly diverse culture growing and spreading in the country. In Johannesburg, this all culminates in the ‘Arts Alive Festival’ which takes place in September and October each year.

To witness the first place where Nelson Mandela owned a home, visit Alexandra in Johannesburg. It is a rather bustling community and sure to reveal many secrets.

Gold Reef City is a extremely popular and well known theme park which will raise your adrenalin all day on their roller coaster rides. From casino’s to mine exploring, there is something here for everyone. The Planetarium is another Jo’burg favorite! This planetarium has various cosmological programs that have been recommended by locals and travellers alike.

Bustling Soweto is a former township from the times of Apartheid. Starting about 15 km away from the centre of Johannesburg, it comprises some 63 sq. km, where an estimated two million people live – and a must for the visitor to Johannesburg wanting to experience the real South Africa!

Johannesburg Zoo

Johannesburg also boasts its very own Zoo. The Johannesburg Zoo is one of the treasures of Johannesburg, a source of enjoyment and relaxation for locals and foreign visitors alike. It occupies extensive grounds in central Parktown, boasting numerous tall trees, shimmeringwater features and beautiful walks around the various enclosures. The stars of the show are, of course, the animals and the zoo’s collection is rather impressive!

The animals you will see here include  lions, tigers, elephants, gorillas, chimpanzees, sable antelope, bat-eared foxes, polar bears and many other species. Special night tours allow visitors to observe the habits of nocturnal creatures. There are also behind-the-scenes tours that show how the zoo operates and the work that needs to be done to ensure that it functions as a smoothly oiled machine. During holidays the zoo presents special programmes and serves as an educational facility, teaching people about wildlife and the environment (see http://www.jhbzoo.org.za).

The list of Johannesburg attractions go on. Other notable attractions include Constitution Hill, Johannesburg art Galley, ABSA Money Museum, Johannesburg Botanic Garden, Nelson Mandela Bridge, Mandela Family Home … and many, many more. For more of Johannesburg attractions please visit Johannesburg Attractions.

Useful Links:
For more destination information please see:
Johannesburg Attractions
Things to Do in Johannesburg
Johannesburg Hotels
Johannesburg Accommodation

Watch Penguins Play

Things in life aren’t always black and white… except for the African Penguin. Of course things that are black and white leave little room for individuality… except for the African Penguin whose specific monochromatic markings are so unique that they personalise the birds like fingerprints on humans.

What may seem like conservative tuxedo colouring is in fact complex camouflage ensuring that when swimming the penguin’s black back blends with the ocean to predators aflight and that the penguin’s white belly reflects like sunlight to predators lurking the deep. These Black-footed Penguins also known as Jackass Penguins, due to their donkey like bray, breed only in Africa. Stony Point Breeding Colony is one of only two South African breeding colonies that are shore-based … (see our previous article on the Boulders Beach Penguins).

Bettys Bay Penguins

An abandoned Betty’s Bay Whaling Station now gives birth to new life as penguins naturally selected breeding ground. The circle of life is best observed just after sunrise or just before sunset when the birds return from their 20km fishing expedition. Declared a protected area for this protected species; a wooden boardwalk takes visitors to Stony Point nesting burrows while protecting the indigenous environment. This well groomed vulnerable species parades its authentic everyday life in a splendid sea-side setting suitable for a family visit or romantic inspiration …

The site is clearly signposted from R44 Clarence Drive, Betty’s Bay in the Cape Overberg Region.

Useful Links:
For more destination information see:
Bettys Bay Attractions
Things to Do in Bettys Bay (Harold Porter Botanical Garden is a highlight!)
Bettys Bay Accommodation

Maropeng Centre

The Cradle of Humankind, a UNESCO world heritage site located approximately 50kms from the metropolis of Johannesburg, has been the site of many archaeological and anthropological finds since the early 20th century. The most famous of these discoveries was the unearthing of “Mrs. Ples” (Australopithecus africanus), dating back 2.3 million years, at the Sterkfontein caves.

This evidence of our early ancestors prompted the naming of the 474 square kilometer site, home to more than three dozen other caves bearing fossilized hominid remains. Ever since these discoveries first became known, tourists have been flocking to the area to experience a part of our history as a species, but it was only in 2005 that the South African government opened the official visitors’ centre, Maropeng, which literally translates as “the place where we come from”.

At Maropeng

The site allows visitors to visit actual archaeological dig sites, to experience the unearthing of our history first hand. Within this award-winning centre, one can take an underground boat ride through 2500 square meters of exhibits, essentially a trip back through our own history, including the ice age, and culminating in a breathtaking recreation of the big bang, thought to have been the event that formed the universe as we know it. Guided tours of all the exhibitions are on offer, both to tourists, and the many school groups that visit the site. Within the complex are hotels, restaurants and other amenities, so visitors have the option of staying on the premises to further explore the area.

Like the Sterkfontein caves, Swartkrans is owned by the University of the Witwatersrand. Fossil remains, as well as stone tools have been unearthed at this site. Extinct animal remains have also been found in the area, particularly at Plover’s lake, a collapsed cave where extensive digging has also taken place.

At Maropeng

Wonder Cave, while not the site of any archaeological finds, rivals the famed Kango Caves in terms of rock formations, and offers guided tours through the enormous cavern, which has a volume in the region of 46 000 cubic meters. Many other caves and dig sites are located within the cradle, some of which are open to the public. Anyone planning a trip to the area should contact the local tourism authorities for more information.

After spending so much time exploring ancient wonders, and marveling at our own history, it may seem strange to return to modern amenities, but rest assured, these abound in the area. Three, four and five star hotels are located in the area, as well as bed and breakfast accommodation. Some of these offer spa treatments fly fishing, horse riding, and excellent restaurants offering fine dining.Also on offer within the Cradle are hot air balloon rides, game viewing, bird watching, hikes and guided trails and many other activities.

Useful Links:
More Destination Information:
Cradle of Humankind Accommodation
Things to Do in Cradle of Humankind

Langebaan

Defined by its rugged shorelines, coastal vegetation, heritage fishing villages and unpretentious lifestyle, the Cape West Coast still holds an element of the wild unknown. A tangibly strong culture of fisher-folk with their quaint small wooden fishing boats and simple lives on the sea, are qualities that draw visitors from across the globe. Loved by many, the dramatic coastline, changeable seas, white sandy beaches and cerulean blue skies creep under your skin and seep into your soul. The most popular of all the quaint villages is Langebaan, with its natural wonders, blue lagoon and azure skies.

Established as a party town for lovers of watersports, fishing or just a good time, Langebaan has an exciting buzz over the weekends and holidays. Visitors to the town are never short of something to do over a long weekend, with a plethora of watersports equipment hire stores, restaurants, drinking holes, cocktail venues, horesriding, playgrounds and even a casino resort. Days are best spent on the water, skiing, canoeing or simply swimming and sunbathing, and the evenings are for soothing burnt skins and going out on the town to appreciate the sun setting over the vast lagoon.

Langebaan

There is a wilder, unknown side to this tourist town, available only to the keen senses of nature lovers and worshippers of silence, in the protected areas of the lagoon within the West Coast Nature Reserve. The West Coast is blessed with stark natural beauty and with residents fiercely protecting their piece of paradise, Shark Bay and Churchhaven have been preserved and sheltered from hoards of holidaymakers on their speed boats, leaving more than footprints and taking more than photographs. This is where the sleeping beauty of Langebaan lies – in the rustic fishermans cottages, shabby-chic and weathered porch furniture and soutvis drying on ropes from the rafters on the stoep. This is where neighbours invite you in for a sherry after a day spent fishing and where photo moments wait for you to chase them down like seagulls, where the silence is only disturbed by the lilt of the lagoon waters lapping at the shore. These are places that seem to have been forgotten by time and yet preserved by it too.

Langebaan

Geelbek Restaurant in Shark Bay offers an authentic West Coast dining experience, offering unpretentious homestyle dishes and scrumptious teas. Travel up the coast and spend the day in the quaint fishing village of Paternoster, famed for its inexpensive crayfish and picturesque wooden fishing boats scattered along the shoreline. Return for an evening at the Strandloper, an open-air seafood restaurant serving up to 7 courses of the most wicked seafood ever! It’ll be an experience you’ll remember with fondness for the rest of your life, for how could anything match the simple joy of dining on fresh seafood, freshly baked oven bread, homemade jams and farmer’s coffee out under the setting sun, on the sandy dunes of one of the most beautiful places in the world?

Spend some quality time in Langebaan and you’ll have an all encompassing experience. Rediscover the innocence of genuine hospitality. Rediscover the quiet beauty of the weathers moods. You’ll feel the weight of your fast paced life melt away as you slip into the warm waters of the lagoon, as your footprints dissolve into the sand …

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For more destination info see:
Langebaan Accommodation
Langebaan Information
Cape West Coast Accommodation

Bainskloof

However wordly and well-travelled you are, meeting a man who has had an ear and part of his nose bitten off by a bird of prey is an unusual experience. The ranger as the camp site we stayed at in Bainskloof had a remarkably good sense of humour for someone mauled by an eagle. Asked about it, he merely shrugs. As a snake wrangler and keeper of the type of birds that can take off body parts with a single snap of the beak, apparently it comes with the territory. I couldn’t help but be glad that I didn’t inhabit that territory.

Bainskloof pass (a part of the R303 regional road) runs from Paarl, over the Limiet Mountains, to Ceres, Northeast of Paarl. This 30km stretch of road, with it’s highest point at 595m, is both a historical monument in itself, having been built in 1853 by Andrew Geddes Bain, a Scottsish Settler without any formal engineering training, although it is still regarded as one of the best passes in the country, and a unspoilt nature reserve, which forms a part of Cape Nature Conservation.

Interestingly enough, Geddes Bain, the constructor of the pass, has been praised for his contribution to paleontology as well as his uncanny engineering skill, due in large part to the fossils unearthed and preserved during the construction of this and other roads.

En route to the pass from the historic town of Wellington, one passes the Bovlei Valley Retreat, a luxury guesthouse located on a working wine, lavender and fruit farm. Other attractions for wine lovers on the way to the pass include the Napiery Winery, named for Sir George Napier, the governor of the Cape from 1837 to 1843, who named the town of Wellington after the Duke of Wellington, as well as Welvanpas, and Nabygelegen Estates.

Bainskloof

The pass itself attracts many eco tourists, particularly in summer, when hiking, swimming in the river that meanders through the valley at the foot of the pass, or visiting the Tweede Tol or other picnicking or viewing locations along the pass, to enjoy a leisurely day viewing the fynbos and wildflowers that abound.

Other attractions and points of interest along the pass are the Hawequa State forest, which straddles the crest of the pass, and magnificent stone formations such as Bells Rock and Dacres Rock, an enormous rock formation that overhangs the road, and where Reverend Dacres delivered a sermon on the opening of the pass. A little further along from these formations are the starting point of some of the more famous hikes in the area, with names like Rockhopper, Murasie, Bobbejaans Rivier and Happy Valley, these tours vary in intensity and length, and can be arranged through Cape Nature Conservation.

As one leaves the pass, the patchwork quilt of the Witzenberg and Breede Rivier valley lies ahead, with towns such as Tulbagh, a small, equally historic town that boasts it’s own wine route, and many other attractions, such as the Tulbagh Hotel, and no less than 32 national monuments.

Or visit the Limietberg Nature reserve adjacent to the pass for more nature and hiking based entertainment. Further along from the pass, lies the town of Ceres, a fruit growing region popular with locals for cherry picking expeditions and playing in the snow in winter, or visitors can choose to continue on to Worcester, Rawsonville and beyond.

This unspoilt pass, which remains largely as it was when it was first built, gives a fascinating insight into what it must have been like to travel in the Western Cape many years ago, before such innovations as the Hugenot Tunnel, and is well worth a visit.

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For more destination info see:
Bainskloof Attractions
Bainskloof Accommodation
Breede River Valley