I ♥ Ficksburg

Hi, We're Dennis and Tereza from Malutizicht Lodge in Ficksburg.

Ficksburg IS BEST KNOWN FOR cherries!

GET YOUR PICTURE TAKEN AT General Fick's Monument which is in front of the town hall. The hall itself is a national monument.

THE BEST scenic PICTURES CAN BE TAKEN on top of Emperani Mountains.

OTHER HAPPY SNAPS can be taken anywhere along the R26 to Fouriesburg and Bethlehem.

WHEN THE WEATHER'S GOOD Dennis LIKES TO play bowls.

WHEN THE WEATHER'S BAD, I LIKE TO play scrabble or paint and Dennis likes to play bridge.

I THINK THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT IS summer, BECAUSE it is the coolest place in South Africa.

I ♥ Ficksburg

MY FAVOURITE BREAKFAST SPOT IS Wimpy.

FOR LUNCH, I SUGGEST Kentucky Fried Chicken.

MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT IS Cliff House, TRY THE cheese platter.

BEST LATE NIGHT SNACK FROM Op die Hoekie.

MY FAVOURITE picnic SPOT IS up a 4 x 4 road on Malutizicht.

FOR A NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN TRY The Y-Not.

IF YOU WANT TO MEET LOCALS, GO TO the golf club.

Ficksburg's BEST KEPT SECRET IS that it is on the Caledon River and has easy access to Lesotho.

I ♥ Ficksburg

MY FAVOURITE THING TO DO WITH FRIENDS IS to visit the Lesotho Mountains.

FOR SOME CULTURE I LIKE TO GO TO the Pellisier Art Museum.

TO RELAX AND RESTORE MY SOUL, I LIKE TO go trout fishing, especially at Malutizicht.

IF YOU'RE FEELING ADVENTUROUS, TRY a cherry or asparagus tour (this would be in season only).

MY FAVOURITE WALK IS the Baboonskop Walk on Malutizicht.

Dennis' FAVOURITE grocery SHOP IS the SPAR. My favourite visitor's shop is Die Blikplek.

MY FAVOURITE game WATCHING SPOT IS Tempelhof.

I ♥ Ficksburg

IF YOU'RE HERE IN November, JOIN IN THE FUN AT the Cherry Festival.

MY FAVOURITE MUSEUM IS Pinedene Small Arms Museum. CHECK OUT THE Bazooka.

MY FAVOURITE BUILDING IS the NG Church, FOR ITS timeless sandstone splendour.

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN? A FUN OUTING IS a day trip to Afriski in Lesotho (winter time only).

BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL OUTING IS Meulspruit Dam.

WHEN MONEY'S NO OBJECT, I LIKE TO take a trip and have dinner on the 'White Mischief' which was launched in October 2003 as Africa's first floating cigar bar and restaurant.

THE MOST UNUSUAL THING I SEE HERE IS horse drawn transport.

MY FAVOURITE WEEKEND GETAWAY IS Katze Dam.

WHEN I WANT TO GIVE BACK TO THE COMMUNITY, I support various fund raisers.

I ♥ Ficksburg BECAUSE of its cool climate.

Malutizicht Lodge

Malutizicht Lodge

Malutizicht Lodge is an ideal picturesque getaway, centrally situated in the Eastern Free State, midway between the towns of Ficksburg and Fouriesburg on the R26 and within easy distance to Lesotho, Golden Gate and Clarens. AA Recommended, 4 star grading, high quality standard of excellence which consists of 9 double en-suite bedrooms in two separate houses. Each house has an open fireplace in the lounge for which wood is supplied. There are wall mounted panel heaters and under carpet heating. Accommodation is fully equipped, strictly self catering and fully serviced on a daily basis.

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Desirable Digits

Pinedene Small Arms Museum — +27 (0)51 933‑4301
White Mischief — +27 (0)51 933‑6486
Cliff House — +27 (0)51 933‑5831

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I ♥ Bethlehem

Hi, I’m Evette from Lavender Hill Country Estate in Bethlehem in the Thabo Mofutsanyana region of the Eastern Free State.

Bethlehem IS BEST KNOWN FOR its beautiful scenery it also has a number of historical sandstone buildings, many of which are now provincial heritage sites.

GET YOUR PICTURE TAKEN AT the old ship at Loch Athlone.

THE BEST nature PICTURES CAN BE TAKEN AT Bethlehem Bird Park.

OTHER HAPPY SNAPS AT the Bethlehem Museum and Sol Plaaitjie Dam.

WHEN THE WEATHER'S GOOD, I LIKE TO play paintball, Clarens Xtreme offers paintball daily from 09h00 to 17h00.

I ♥ Bethlehem

WHEN THE WEATHER'S BAD, I LIKE TO go to the Kines — our local shopping mall, The Bethlehem Kine Centre.

I THINK THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT IS basically anytime, BECAUSE in winter we may have snow, In summer we have the greenest mountains, in spring we have the best blossoms and autumn is a fairytale with its colours.

MY FAVOURITE BREAKFAST SPOT IS Jenka Restaurant.
FOR LUNCH, I SUGGEST Cafe al Fresco located at the Riverwalk Centre on Theron Street.

MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT IS Jenka, TRY THE chocolate steak.

I ♥ Bethlehem

BEST LATE NIGHT SNACK FROM Bimbo’s fast food restaurant.
MY FAVOURITE picnic SPOT IS either next to one of our dams or at the bird park.

FOR A NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN TRY the saloon or Ilanga.
IF YOU WANT TO MEET LOCALS, GO TO O’Hagans Pub and Grill on Theron Street.

Bethlehem’s BEST KEPT SECRET IS the rivalry week between Witteberg and Voortrekker High Schools.

MY FAVOURITE THING TO DO WITH FRIENDS IS have a braai next to our famous Jet ski spot at Loch Athlone.

FOR SOME LIVE MUSIC, I LIKE TO GO TO the Clarens Jamboree Fest.

I ♥ Bethlehem

TO RELAX AND RESTORE MY SOUL, I LIKE TO go hiking.
IF YOU'RE FEELING ADVENTUROUS, TRY mountain biking.

MY FAVOURITE WALK IS in the Wolhuterskop Nature Reserve.
MY FAVOURITE browsing SHOP IS Mr Price Home.

MY FAVOURITE Sunday Driving SPOT IS the Golden Gate Pass.
IF YOU'RE HERE IN August, JOIN IN THE FUN AT the Bethlehem Air Show.

MY FAVOURITE MUSEUM IS the Bethlehem Museum. CHECK OUT THE old war items and jewellery / antiques.
MY FAVOURITE BUILDING IS the Strapp, FOR ITS architecture.

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN? A FUN OUTING IS just outside of Bethlehem at Lion’s Rock.

I ♥ Bethlehem

BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL OUTING IS Sunnyside Guest Farm otherwise the The Ash River outfall is most interesting to visit.
WHEN MONEY'S NO OBJECT, I LIKE TO spend it in the art galleries of Clarens.

THE MOST UNUSUAL THING I SEE HERE ARE the dinosaur tracks near Clarens.
MY FAVOURITE WEEKEND GETAWAY IS the Golden Gate area.

WHEN I WANT TO GIVE BACK TO THE COMMUNITY, I support Pathways.

I ♥ Bethlehem BECAUSE you can experience 4 seasons in one day.

Lavender Hill

Lavender Hill Country Estate

Come and experience classic elegance and romance in a dreamland of roses and lavender, while enjoying the breathtaking views over the Maluti Mountains. Situated just 2.5 km from Bethlehem on route to Clarens, this little piece of heaven, with its tranquil surroundings will become your most favorite little gem. At Lavender Hill you can enjoy one of 10 individually themed chalets, with subtle touches and fine finishes. Every unit is fully equipped with television, air-conditioning, electrical blanket, a shower and bath, coffee and tee facilities and a huge extra king size bed with feathered down duvets. Royalty has never been this affordable.

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Desirable Digits

Bethlehem Museum: +27 (0)58 303‑5076
Clarens Xtreme: +27 (0)58 256‑1260
Jenka: +27 (0)58 303‑1673
Cafe al Fresco: +27 (0)58 303‑6260
Bimbo's: +27 (0)58 303‑7274
O'Hagans: +27 (0)58 303‑0919
Sunnyside Guest Farm: +27 (0)58 256‑1099

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I ♥ Fouriesburg

Hi, I’m Guilletta from Pumula Guest Farm in Fouriesburg.

Fouriesburg IS BEST KNOWN FOR asparagus, unbelievable sandstone rock formations; the 'Queen Victoria' is listed as one of the 20 highest loose-standing rock formations in the Free State and the largest rock overhang in the Southern Hemisphere while 'Salpeterkrans' is on the way to Clarens.
GET YOUR PICTURE TAKEN INSIDE the old car at Jen-lee's.
THE BEST autumn colour scene PICTURES CAN BE TAKEN anywhere in the Fouriesburg district.
OTHER HAPPY SNAPS can be taken on the tractor outside the Plaas Stoep Pub.

WHEN THE WEATHER'S GOOD, I LIKE TO have sun-downers next to the low water bridge on the S344 dirt road.
WHEN THE WEATHER'S BAD, I LIKE TO sip some red wine in the pub next to the fireplace at the Fouriesburg Country Inn.
I THINK THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT IS autumn and winter BECAUSE because of the beautiful autumn colours and snow in Lesotho in winter.

I ♥ Fouriesburg

MY FAVOURITE lunch SPOT IS The Rose House.
MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT IS at the Fouriesburg Country Inn, TRY THE chicken livers — I love them.
FOR A NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN TRY The Windmill Pub and Grill.
IF YOU WANT TO MEET LOCALS, GO TO The Windmill Pub and Grill.

Fouriesburg’s BEST KEPT SECRET IS that the town is the capital of the Free State. During the Boer War it was declared the capital while the president resided here. Rumour has it that it was never officially changed back to Bloemfontein again ...
MY FAVOURITE THING TO DO WITH FRIENDS IS have lunch and play croquet at The Rose House.
FOR SOME CULTURE, I LIKE TO go to our local art gallery — Doherty's Art.
TO RELAX AND RESTORE MY SOUL, I LIKE TO reflect on my own in the beautiful church at Wnydford Holiday Farm.

I ♥ Fouriesburg

IF YOU'RE FEELING ADVENTUROUS, TRY asking Dermot to take you on the 4 x 4 trail at Camelroc Guest Farm.
MY FAVOURITE WALK or DRIVE IS in the Meiringskloof Nature Reserve.
MY FAVOURITE 'well I never knew I could buy all of this in one shop' SHOP IS Issy General Store.

MY FAVOURITE sunrise WATCHING SPOT IS my own verandah.
IF YOU'RE HERE IN the beginning of September join in the fun at the Fouriesburg Spring Festival.
MY FAVOURITE GALLERY IS Walibri Art. CHECK OUT THE amazing glass re-creations from recycling the towns glass.
MY FAVOURITE BUILDING is the NG church in town FOR ITS beautiful sandstone architecture and glass windows.

I ♥ Fouriesburg

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN? A FUN OUTING IS going down the Caledon River on tubes.

BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL OUTING IS a picnic lunch packed by Brian at Walibri Art in the Meiringskloof Nature Reserve.
WHEN MONEY'S NO OBJECT, I'd LovE TO stay at Maliba Mountain Lodge which is a 45 minute drive from us in Lesotho.

THE MOST UNUSUAL THING I SEE HERE IS the different sandstone formations.

WHEN I WANT TO GIVE BACK TO THE COMMUNITY, I sell our fresh farm milk to the farm workers at the same price as it was in 2004!

I ♥ Fouriesburg BECAUSE the mountain scenery is never the same from one day to the next and I feel safe and grateful every day.

Pumula Guest Farm

Pumula Guest Farm

Pumula is a working grain and cattle farm 7km outside Fouriesburg in the Eastern Free State highlands. The region boasts fantastic scenery, many various outdoor activities and Anglo/Boer War history. It is situated in the Brandwater Basin south of Bethlehem and on the border with Lesotho. Lesotho is well known for the Highlands Water Project, and a tour of the Katsi dam wall is a must. Go skiing at Oxbow in winter, or just play around in the snow.

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Desirable Digits

The Rose House — +27 (0)58 223‑0941
Fouriesburg Country Inn +27 (0)58 223‑0207
Wnydford Holiday Farm +27 (0)58 223‑0274

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I ♥ Bloemfontein

Hi, I’m Jan Fourie from Camelia Guest House in Bloemfontein in the Motheo Region of the Free State.

Bloemfontein IS BEST KNOWN FOR its friendly inhabitants and its historical sandstone buildings which comprise good material for art photos. If interested in capturing people relaxing at open restaurants, visit the three major shopping centres namely Mimosa Mall, the Waterfront or Preller Square.

GET YOUR PICTURE TAKEN AT Oliewenhuis. The gardens are neat, spacious and well kept. You will find lovely corners in the gardens where you can relax and compile your own setting for photos. Art objects next to the art museum also offer opportunities for creative photos.

THE BEST nature PICTURES CAN BE TAKEN early in the morning at the botanical gardens.
OTHER HAPPY SNAPS AT the zoo.

I ♥ Bloemfontein

WHEN THE WEATHER'S GOOD, I LIKE TO take a walk at one of the hiking trails in the botanical gardens or go to one of the many restaurants in the open.

WHEN THE WEATHER'S BAD, I LIKE TO Traumerei at the Waterfront. They serve lovely treats.

I THINK THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT IS during autumn, BECAUSE the weather is excellent then. You can sit outside even in shorts till late.

MY FAVOURITE BREAKFAST SPOT IS the Wimpy at the Pretty Garden Nursery.
FOR LUNCH, I SUGGEST a picnic at the Waterfront.

MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT IS New York, TRY any of the steaks on the menu.

I ♥ Bloemfontein

BEST LATE NIGHT SNACK FROM Euoro Café in Mimosa Mall.
MY FAVOURITE SPOT for camping and fishing IS Maselspoort on the Airport Road.

FOR A NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN TRY Cubana in Second Avenue.
IF YOU WANT TO MEET LOCALS, GO TO Barbas.

Bloemfontein’s BEST KEPT SECRET IS its kind people.

MY FAVOURITE THING TO DO WITH FRIENDS IS go for a Sunday lunch at the Oliewenhuis Restaurant. Here you can visit art exhibitions and take a stroll through the lovely gardens.

FOR SOME CULTURE, I LIKE TO GO TO to the Sand du Plessis Theatre or visit some of the productions at the annual Volksblad Art Festival on the campus of the University of the Free State.

I ♥ Bloemfontein

TO RELAX AND RESTORE MY SOUL, I LIKE TO sit on the bench next the small pond in the Botanical Gardens.

IF YOU'RE FEELING ADVENTUROUS, TRY a tandem parachute jump at the Tempe airport or take a zoo snooze.

MY FAVOURITE DRIVE IS to the Boeremark in Langenhovenpark on Saturday mornings.

MY FAVOURITE clothing and food SHOP IS the Waterfront Woolworths.

MY FAVOURITE stadium for WATCHING SPOT IS the Vodacom Stadium next to the Waterfront Shopping Centre.

IF YOU'RE HERE IN the second week of July, JOIN IN THE FUN AT the Volksblad Vryfees.

I ♥ Bloemfontein

MY FAVOURITE MUSEUM IS the Oliewenhuis Art Museum. CHECK OUT THE permanent as well as the temporary exhibitions.

MY FAVOURITE BUILDING IS the Mimosa Mall, FOR ITS good design and it is filled with very interesting shops, restaurants and movie theatres.

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN? A FUN OUTING IS a visit to the Wimpy or Traumerei restaurant at the Pretty Garden Nursery where you can keep an eye on your children while they enjoy the children’s playground  (swings, battery powered carts, jungle gym, etc.).

BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL OUTING IS to the Boeremark on Saturdays.

WHEN MONEY'S NO OBJECT, I LIKE TO go to the Coco C restaurant at the Waterfront.

I ♥ Bloemfontein

THE MOST UNUSUAL THING I SEE HERE IS a lack of heavy traffic.
MY FAVOURITE WEEKEND GETAWAY IS to the Allemanskraal Dam.

WHEN I WANT TO GIVE BACK TO THE COMMUNITY, I donate money to the Free State after Care Centre.

Guest Houses in Bloemfontein offer excellent value for money. Because Bloemfontein is in the centre of the county, it is very popular for conferences

I ♥ Bloemfontein BECAUSE offers all the necessary qualities needed to live a quality life – excellent municipal services, excellent educational institutions, medical services of a high quality, good road and air transport facilities and most important – its kind people.

Camelia Guest House

Camelia Guest House

Camelia Guest House is situated in the tranquil up-market suburb of Universitas Ridge, 2, 8 km from the N1 motorway and in close range of the University of the Free State, Grey College, Mimosa Mall, and Medi Clinic Hospital. We provide accommodation and service of a high professional standard to business people, conference goers, lecturers, tourists, holiday makers and sport enthusiasts.  We offer clean, elegantly and individually decorated en-suite rooms — each with a private garden entrance and patio. Our “modern cottage” and antique furniture made of indigenous Yellow Wood, Stink Wood, as well as Oregon Pine, Burmese Teak and Oak, contributes to a warm atmosphere.

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Desirable Digits

Oliwenhuis: +27 (0)51 447‑9609
Traumerei Coffee Shop: +27 (0)51 451‑1815
Pretty Garden Nursery: +27 (0)51 451‑1069
New York: +27 (0)51 447‑7279
Euro Cafe: +27 (0)51 444‑6222
Maselspoort: +27 (0)51 441‑7848
Cubana: +27 (0)51 447‑1920
Barbas Cafe: +27 (0)51 430‑2542
Sand du Plessis Theatre: +27 (0)51 447‑7771
Botanical Gardens: +27 (0)51 436‑3612 or +27 (0)51 436‑3530
Skydiving: +27 (0)51 451‑1143 or +27 (0)76 394‑6059
Coco C: +27 (0)51 447‑8523

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Fields of Cosmos

Ah, the heart of the country where the sun almost always shines, or at least for 340 days of the year. Swathes of wheat fields, cosmos and sunflowers with a backdrop of rolling hills, incredible sandstone mountains, and roads that lack congestion, give or take the odd pothole. This is the Free State.

Right through the middle of this province runs the main route between Cape Town and Johannesburg. Called the N1, this road runs straight, very straight, through terrain utterly land-locked that is also the country's third-largest province — known as the bread basket of the country because it produces soya, sorghum, wheat, potatoes and sunflowers. But how many of us have followed our heart's desire and spent time off the N1 in amongst the cosmos and fields of wheat?

Here is a five-day alternative to simply driving to Johannesburg from Cape Town (or if you're coming from Jo'burg, simply reverse the order). The latter is a seventeen hour haul that leaves you gasping and takes two days from which to recover. The former, which we recently took, takes you through the lesser known, little explored, but incredibly beautiful parts of the (predominantly) eastern parts of the Free State.

Day one: Matjiesfontein

Platform Minstrels

Whilst you might not have time to overnight at the little historical village of Matjiesfontein – it is only a couple of hours outside of Cape Town – this is definitely worth a stop. And once stopped, you will find that you want to stay awhile.

Matjiesfontein began its life as a train station. It is still a station, but around it is a remarkably pretty little town filled with white washed, stone buildings that line the only road through town on which stands the Lord Milner Hotel, which began its life as a highly fashionable spa for the wealthy in Cape Town to enjoy. It was built by James Logan, who also opened a mineral water production plant here, realising that there was no reliable source of water between Touws River and De Aar.

Tip: Make sure you take the double-decker bus tour and visit the local pub in the hotel.

Day two: Victoria West

Victoria West

This little dorp, Victoria West, just off the N1 filled with gorgeous examples of Victorian architecture, dotted with restored Cape cottages and Karoo-huisies, as well as the odd windmill, is well worth a visit. Two things draw people here – the annual independent film festival, and Mannetjies Roux. The film festival takes place every year in the art deco Apollo Theatre and features a line up of short films, features and documentaries, whilst Mannetjies Roux, for those of you who don't know, is a renowned ex-rugby player who lives here, runs a B&B and at least one of the local antique shops, with his wife. The Victoria Trading Post also serves as a museum to the history of his time as a Springbok.

Tip: explore the main road through town from the Loxton side, for beautiful houses; take in the little gothic-revival style Anglican church (it's not the huge one that dominates town), visit the coffee shops and pick up an antique.

Day three: Lady Grey

NG Kerk, Lady Grey

Lady Grey is not strictly in the Free State at all. But then neither are Matjiesfontein or Victoria West. Lady Grey lies just inside the northern border of the Eastern Cape. Make sure that you get there via Smithfield and Rouxville. Smithfield in particular is a gorgeous little town (provided you're not after a head of fresh lettuce) and easily an alternative to Lady Grey if you want to remain within the Free State. Lady Grey, though, is worth the detour. It is a quaint, rural village set right up against the Witteberg Mountains, close to the Karringmelkspruit River gorge, where snow is a regular occurrence in winter. Streets are lined with restored Victorian-style homes, many of them guest houses or little coffee shops, and the Dutch Reformed Church right on the edge of town is gorgeous.

Tip: Stay here over Easter for the annual local Passion Play; pop into Anny's Café for a taste of local food and gossip.

Route 26

This is where I quickly interject with a description of a route less travelled. Mostly due to the potholes. But you can safely drive it with an ordinary sedan, and it is well worth it. Also known as the Maloti Route, it winds through and past the towns of Zastron, Vanstadensrus, Wepener, Hobhouse, Ladybrand, Clocolan and Ficksburg with some of the best views imagineable. We did it in a day, but if you have longer...

Day four: Fouriesburg

Fouriesburg views

Most people will tell you to stay in Clarens. I'm going to recommend other. Purely because, well, whilst Clarens is beautiful there is no doubt, there are other little towns along the R26 and Fouriesburg in particular, just down the drag from Clarens, is a no less beautiful and quieter alternative. This is a less-commercialised escape with a 'laid back' atmosphere. There are not as many accommodation and coffee shop options, but the local artists have given the town a vibe all its own, and the walks and views are stunning.

Day five: Rosendal

My cousin, who lives in Jo'burg, has a house here. Quite a few Jo'burgers have weekend houses here. Whilst it is a little bit of a detour from the city of gold, it appears that it is well worth it – visit, and you'll find out why. Admittedly it is a bit of a detour if you stay in Fouriesburg the night before (a stay in Ficksburg would probably be more sensible), but then we're not outlining the 'easy' route, simply the one we think is the most beautiful.

Essentials for the road:

• salad and greens (these can become something of a commodity in the smaller villages, and not everyone has veggie gardens)
• Afrikaans woordeboek – this is where you haul out your rusty Afrikaans 'cause you're going to want to talk to the locals, and they 'aint big on English
• endurance – the pot holes will likely drive you mad, breathe deeply and drink in the views (just watch out for the holes!)

lots of time – this is not a route to do quickly – the idea is to savour the experience!

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Rosendal, Free State

I'd heard that Rosendal is the "next" Clarens and seeing as we were en route from Ficksburg to Clarens and Rosendal is only a teeny bit off track we used this as our opportunity to pop in and see the village for ourselves.  One is greeted by a fairly large ‘map’ of Rosendal when arriving but to be honest we drove down a dusty track and thought to ourselves ‘what the heck is all the fuss about’ — in fact we couldn’t even find a shop of any kind!  We spotted a church steeple and being the intrepid, seasoned explorers that we are made our way towards that landmark ...

Aha — good move that was.  Almost directly opposite the church is Turvsy Trading; a cauldron of enamel signs, antiques, bicycles, woollen goods and just about everything else you could think of.  I walked into the shop and my jaw hit the ground!  It was like walking into a regter egter trading store 100 years ago; in fact I was about to start snapping away with my camera but the owner of the store stopped me; that particular section of the shop was to be made into a museum and a film company had all the photo and filming rights.

I got into conversation with the store owner and she told me that she had befriended an elderly gentleman who owned a trading store in Lesotho.  His store was packed to the brim with everything we still find on our store shelves today; Vaseline Lip Ice, Frisco coffee, Oros cordial, Lux soaps, Lexington cigarettes etc but these items dated back many many years (for instance Vaseline Lip Ice was only 15c!)  He also had reams and reams of fabric brought straight from the United Kingdom still with the price tag in yards and shillings! It was all fascinating. When this elderly gentleman passed away she bought a lot of his stock and filled Turvsy Trading with these items.

We wandered around the yard, also filled with enamel signs, wooden tables and various other things before strolling down to the coffee shop.  This huge shop was also filled with enamelware, loads of porcelain antiques, light shades and an entire closet of never worn 1960's clothes!  The coffee shop also doubles as a theatre and the owner puts on a delicious three course meal so it’s a real theatre and dinner extravaganza.  Seating 120, bookings are snapped up and in fact most performances are sold out.

Rosendal is a quaint little village and I can see the attraction of spending time there; I don’t think it’s quite the next Clarens but if peace, quiet and beauty are what you are after then Rosendal is the place for you.

Photographs of Rosendal & The Turvsy Trading Store:

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The Bottling Company

I spent the night in Ficksburg last week and seeing as dinner was not served at our guest house it was suggested that we try The Bottling Co.  We didn’t have much other choice and meeting the locals is what being on a road trip is all about so we followed the directions given and strolled the 300 metres or so from our accommodation in Ficksburg to The Bottling Co on Piet Retief Street.

The venue is divided into two sections; the bar and smoking area in the front and the non-smoking area in the back.  The front area had a lot more atmosphere so although not smokers, we chose in the smoking section.  The restaurant got its name from a bottling company that used to operate nearby a couple of decades ago and the bar section has a few bits of ‘bottling’ equipment proudly displayed.  Framed newspaper clippings about the company adorn the walls and old fashioned bottles surround a light bulb; making ingenious light shades.

The room is beautifully warmed by a wood burning stove in the centre of the room — and although not cold on the night we stayed in Ficksburg I have been told that temperatures can drop to as little as minus nine degrees so that stove would come in handy.

For city slickers like ourselves (and by this stage, hungry city slickers!) the service was a little slow but we were in the country and people work at a country speed!  I ordered a chicken schnitzel with a mushroom sauce and my brother a 200g rump steak with a pepper sauce.

As mentioned the order took a little longer to arrive than it would in a city but nevertheless, when it arrived it was oh so well worth the wait! Included in the price was mashed potato (other choices were rice or chips) as well as creamed spinach and butternut.  I’m not scared to admit that I love food; any kind of food and this was just what the doctor ordered after the long drive from Graaff-Reinet.  My brother declared his meal equally delicious and including a bottle of wine the bill was just over R200.  Cheap at the price!

We left at about 8.30pm and the bar was steadily filling up with visitors and locals alike.  We had a thoroughly enjoyable evening at The Bottling Co and would recommend it to anyone visiting Ficksburg.

Contact Details:
Address: Corner of Piet Retief Street, Ficksburg, Free State
Telephone: +27 (0)51 933‑2404 or +27 (0)84 696‑6032

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Oliewenhuis

I love strolling through the ground floor gallery of Oliewenhuis. Every time we return there is something new to grab one's attention, usually contemporary — the museum is renowned for its contemporary collection and holds between 15 and 20 temporary exhibitions every year. The works are, more often than not, for sale, so it's something of a glorified shopping experience. I can imagine acquiring some of these gorgeous works for myself!

Oliewenhuis is an art museum of note housed in a Neo-Dutch style mansion that served as residence for the Governor General of the then Union of South Africa from 1942, and later became the official residence for the State President of South Africa when he was in Bloemfontein. It is also one of the highlights of visiting the city, and a 'must-see' on anyone's itinerary.

As one winds up the sweeping driveway towards the house, which no longer serves as a residence to the State President who has now apparently moved across the road, one's eye is caught by the long length of garden below the house that serves as a park for picnics and lazy Sundays, and houses some beautiful cement and mosaic art — creations that evolved from a project involving fourteen Mangaung residents in a workshop-style approach at producing functional art that can be sat on, played on and climbed.

The sculptures include a rather audacious frog, over which children pour, and a piece known as 'family chairs' — a group of three sit in what looks suspiciously like a meditative pose, hands held, the central figure wearing what could be a cross, the one on the left with his eyes open but fixed – it's a beautiful, larger-than-life piece. You can sit in their laps. They're meant to be chairs, but I've yet to see someone actually in them – they're too beautiful for anything as basic as sitting.

The garden at Oliewenhuis is regarded as one of the best in the city. The young Art Museum sits perched on Grant's Hill, just above the suburb of Westdene, the gorgeous house named after a collection of wild olive trees said to grow in the surrounding hills.

It's a sumptuous venue and a feast of art, garden, unrestrained splendour in the form of beautiful architecture, and, when the skies are blue, which they usually are in Bloemfontein, a perfect space in which to enjoy tea or lunch at The Terrace coffee shop and restaurant (note: they're closed on a Monday). It's small wonder that this is the venue for so many weddings in the city.

The garden in which the restaurant rests at the back of the museum is in turn a sculpture garden, with eleven sculptures from local artists selected to display their art here. The sculpture park only opened in 2005 and is used to demonstrate how a public space can incorporate art successfully. It works beautifully. Particularly as in the midst of all of this is the African Carousel, another functional sculpture that is actively used for children's rides – you can buy a ticket in the museum, and proceeds go towards buying works of art.

The carousel is exactly as it sounds, a merry-go-round made up of a collection of sculptures of various animals, supplied by a group of artists, bringing art directly to children, and actively engaging them – what better way to introduce them to art than allowing them to climb, touch and ride it. The materials used for the sculptures are not usually used for outdoor public commissions and borrow heavily from European and African concepts of mythology. They are incredible.

Whilst children may not consciously be aware of the calibre of art on which they are riding, the essence of each beautiful creature touches the child who rides here. Although watching my son scoff an ice-cream cone not long afterwards, one would have been hard-pushed to imagine the aesthetic benefits to his otherwise insatiable nature!

Lunch at the Terrace restaurant was surprisingly good. The coffee shop overlooks the garden, so you get to view some of the sculptures, whilst lazying beneath canopied trees. Whilst the menu wasn't what I would call adventurous, the food was good. Certainly my warm vegetarian salad – jacket potatoes tossed with green beans, sundried tomatoes, feta, garlic and sliced mushrooms in a light bernaise sauce — was quite heavenly, and the others, who settled for a combination of lasagnas, fish and chips and home baked chicken pie, were all impressed at the service and the quality of the food. You can also have homemade burgers, burritos, potato wedges, steaks or a variety of sandwiches.

There is more to Oliewenhuis than the sculpture garden and the Terrace coffee shop, however. The permanent collection in the museum is the work of South African artists, most of them acquired through donations and bequests, and includes works by Thomas Baines, Jan Ernst Volschenk, Jacob hendrik Pierneef and Frans Martin Claerhout.

There is also an underground reservoir, discovered whilst planning for the African Carousel, thought to be built as a catchment  basin for the area and built in around 1902. It has since been transformed into an exciting exhibition space. Walking trails that leave from Oliewenhuis and enter into the surrounding vegetation on Grant's Hill, and are perfect for all ages, are there for the taking. All in all, a wonderful outing for the whole family – food, culture, fun and exercise all in one.

Bloemfontein Links:
Bloemfontein Attractions
Bloemfontein Map
Bloemfontein Accommodation
Bloemfontein Hotels
Bloemfontein Guest Houses

Clarens

The town of Clarens has been on the lips of enthusiasts for years. It's used as the yardstick for just about any town in the vicinity of the Free State, so I was curious on entering — not having visited for about six years. Would the town have retained its artists' hideaway status, or would it now look a little jaded, overexposed and over-commercialised, as I feared it might?

It is difficult to beat the setting around Clarens. The picture book town lies in the foothills of the Maluti Mountains and the Golden Gate Highlands, on the Caledon River, with views that are pretty magnificent. Some fourteen art galleries bear testimony to the number of artists the wonder of the scenery has attracted, and the sheer volume of people who pass through here speak of the need to return time and again for the pleasure gained in the outdoors environment of Clarens — white water rafting, horse riding trails, fly fishing and hiking.

Clarens

Despite my trepidation, and the rather predictable addition of a Protea Hotel and smallish shopping centre with petrol station on the slope of Main Street, the Barn Centre on Sias Oosthuizen Street, and the Clarens Golf and Trout estate where the golf course is obscenely out of character with the unspoilt beauty that used to clad the bottom reaches of these mountains, Clarens has managed to retain a lot of her charm and her constant flea market atmosphere, whilst her artists and intellectuals appear to thrive.

There are those after a real Free State village escape who might argue to the contrary, and most certainly the newer development is why places like Rosendal and Fouriesburg are attracting attention. Properties in Clarens are now quite heavily priced and most of the buyers are from Gauteng, acquiring second homes and prepared to pay for the status of a 'dinky weekender in Clarens'. The only downside of all this popularity is that the word is out, and everyone and his dog is here.

Clarens

Yet despite the fact that your 'quiet weekend' can end up becoming something of a frenzied run-around acquiring art, climbing mountains, birding, trout fishing, cycling and partying in one of several restaurants, the combination of country and the few city elements the town has adopted seems not to have hindered the average visitor.

If anything, the street culture of Main Street just beyond President Plein is more than a little enticing. Clarens hasn't been described as the 'Melville of the Free State' for nothing; there is a real village appeal here. And Clarens has more than one saving grace — none of the restaurants is a franchise, traffic is nominal, people are more than a little civilised, so whole mornings pass by over a cup of latte, people-watching on the square, there is plenty of shopping to do, you can now pick up a freshly baked loaf of highly desirable bread, and the views...

Clarens

Our landlady, from whom we rented a cottage at Timmerskraal, put it all into perspective. She's lived here for nigh on twenty years and still loves the community and the way of life. Visitors, Carol says, come here mainly for the abundant outdoor life. If you like horse riding, hiking and roughing it there isn't a more beautiful backdrop or valley, in her opinion, for soaking up the elements.

And if you are not an outdoorsy type, there are plenty of things to do in Clarens, which still holds the allure of old.  There is apparently a walking tour of Clarens that gives you a wonderful sense of the history of the town and takes you into the hills where the famous panoramic views provide hours of happy snap material. Clarens Breweries that used to operate out of Clementines is now just off the square below The Highlander and Clarens Information (go armed with a note or two as a map of the town doesn't come free of charge), and is definitely worth a visit for handcrafted beers and cider.

Clarens

Clarens Breweries are the first and only microbrewery in the Free State and you won't leave without trying their Blonde Ale, English Ale, Stout, or famous Apple cider! Just a pity that The Highlander, an obvious choice given that it's right next door, didn't have their ale on the menu? Clementines, on the other side of the square, still sells their beer and cider from their garden area, however.

The Bibliophile on Church Street, right next door to Clementines, is not a museum, as it first appears to be, but a fantastic bookstore in the old 'bus station' and a landmark in Clarens that is definitely worth a visit.

It's almost assured of being free of visitors (they tend to stick to the main drag) whilst the store brims over with a selection of books and CDs and constantly updates its material.

Clarens

With regards to bread, and bread becomes fairly important when you're on the road, you might want to give the two supermarkets on the square a miss in this regard. Rather head down to the Millery, a fairly new bakery in Clarens, which explains why it's way down at the end of town (or the beginning, depending on how you enter Clarens) in Sias Oosthuizen Street. Their selection is heavenly, and our seed/health loaf was easily comparable with Cape Town bakeries. There are two bakeries along this stretch of road, but the Millery was voted 'best choice' by the locals to whom we spoke.

The generous number of restaurants for breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner can leave you dithering, but The Highlander, where we had dinner on our first night, is definitely one of the better choices. It has an amazing little wrap-around balcony from which you can view the stars and the menu serves eclectic Meditteranean-style food and excellent pizzas.

Clarens

Someone had recommended the Posthouse to us, but it just didn't have the atmosphere, or the menu, of The Highlander. My meal of chicken kebabs served with tsatsiki, pitta bread, and heaps of salad was definitely worth writing home about.

Breakfast, I believe, is excellent at Smokey Joes or the Artist Café, coffee is supposed to be the best at Moerdyk Koffiehuis or Valley Cats, but don't take my word for it sample for yourselves, and Friends is supposed to be the local late-night hangout. And if you can, one late afternoon, take a drive through to Fouriesburg. The drive is quite something, and the little town well worth a visit.

Yes, Clarens has lost her 'yet-to-be-discovered' sparkle that made her so appealing years ago, but the pretty town has done little to lose her charm and without doubt remains a jewel in the crown of the Free State.

Clarens Links:
Clarens Attractions
Clarens Accommodation
Clarens Self Catering
Clarens Bed & Breakfasts

Iewers Nice in Bloem

Pretty Bloemfontein bang smack in the middle of the country, give or take a few kilometres, tends to get the cold shoulder when it comes to travel through no fault of its own, except that there is no apparent reason to go out of your way to visit the city, unless, like me, you have relatives living there. But one is sorely mistaken to take the city at face value.

You've no doubt heard the origin of the judicial capital of the country's name, but for the sake of posterity — it is Dutch for 'spring of bloem', 'flower spring' or 'fountain of flowers'. The reason for this description might not become immediately apparent, if like me you visit out of season, as the abundance of roses in the city of roses tends to happen only during the annual rose festival in October.

Bloemfontein's saving grace is that it is a university town, has a number of very visitable historical buildings in the city centre, and a burgeoning nightlife along Kellner Street in Westdene that gives this part of the city a distinctly alternative character. It's also got the largest fire service museum in the country, if that kind of thing excites you, and over R221 million has gone into upgrading the Free State Stadium in preparation for the 2010 World Cup.

As a consequence of all this preparation, which has the city's potholed streets in some confusion, construction has all but placed the neighbouring Waterfront Shopping Mall's parking into a state of disarray. Known officially as the Loch Logan Waterfront, although everyone knows it simply as 'the waterfront', it is the largest shopping centre in central South Africa (not much of a claim if you consider that this refers to the Karoo), with more than 100 shops, 17 restaurants and coffee shops, fast food outlets, movies etc.

And Wouter of Exclusive Books.

I wonder if the book store realises Wouter's worth. His true calling should be to represent Bloemfontein's sadly lacking tourism office on Park Road in the Willows. He could start a blog entitled 'Wouter's Bloemfontein' such was the quality of his advice. Wouter should be requisite for those stuck in Bloem without a compass.

The tourism information office, by comparison, lies firmly entrenched in amongst government offices, and is not only difficult to find but has virtually no information on Bloemfontein. And the map, of which they are obviously proud, that was thrust in our hands, is so ill-conceived as to be impractical  — buildings and sights are arranged alphabetically not numerically, which makes finding the corresponding numbers on the map virtually impossible. When asked about the night life and where to go with children, we received polite but completely vacant stares, and whilst I could pick up a brochure on other parts of the Free State, Bloem obviously hasn't heard about the imperatives of marketing.

Not one to accept the obvious, I headed off in search of an internet café to unveil a website that might lead us to the inner sanctum of the city, hence our arrival at the Loch Logan Waterfront. Finding next to nothing, our next port of call was Exclusive Books in search of a Time Out Magazine — surely Bloemfontein featured somewhere? All of our avenues finally thwarted, we slumped against the till where stood Wouter, who took it upon himself to represent the city in all its finery to us. A couple of calls to his mates, and he had a list of things for us to do.

Bloemfontein, said Wouter with a smile on his face, is for braaivleis and sex. No seriously, there is plenty to do, if you just know where to look. And he rattled off a list of promising sounding buildings, admittedly listed on our acquired tourism map — the difference being that Wouter made them sound worth visiting.

Bloemfontein benefits from being fairly compact and in a relatively small area (you can get out of your car and safely walk down tree-lined President Brand Street to see the sights) are a series of historical buildings like the First and Fourth Raadsaal, government buildings like the Appeal Court, the Bram Fischer Building, City Hall, the Twin-spire church — the only twin-spire Dutch Reformed church in Southern Africa — and the National Afrikaans Literature Museum. The Twin-spire church it turned out, is also across the road from a now hawkers trading area and impossibly difficult to photograph, unless you stand in the middle of traffic. But that's another story.

Wouter went on to highlight a couple of art and culture venues, such as the Sand du Plessis Theatre, where PACOFS reside, the Wynand Mouton Theatre, part of the university complex, and the Johannes Stegmann Art Gallery which he considers really worth a visit.

When I explained that we were there on a whirlwind tour, he put together a list of highlights for us:

Of historical note:

• President Brand Street – take a walk for incredible examples of 19^th and 20^th century buildings that include City Hall, and the Magistrate's Court
• The Fourth Raadsaal (definitely better than the First), opposite the Court of Appeal, a Renaissance-style building with a monument of Christiaan de Wet outside
• The Twin-spire Dutch Reformed Church
• The National Museum, including a complete fossil skeleton and a typical 1900s street scene
• Freshford House Museum,  gorgeous example of Edwardian architecture, restored by the National Museum, and located on Kellner Street in Westdene
• Women's Memorial — the lone sandstone shrine created by Anton von Wouw in memory of the 36 370 women and children who died in the concentration camps during the Anglo-Boer War

To do with children:

• Oliewenhuis, where children can ride on the African Carousel and run in the gardens
• Cheetah Experience at Emoya Estate, north of the city, where children can interact with hand-reared orphan cheetahs
• Orchid House in Hamilton Park, not far from Oliewenhuis
• Pretty Gardens Lifestyle Centre — jungle gyms, trampoline, see-saws, battery driven cars, restaurants and more
• Gwen Bali Water World at the North Ridge mall

Zany nightlife in Westdene:

• Mystic Boer
• Avanti
• Iewers Nice
• 7 on Kellner

Thanks to Wouter's insider guide we had an amazing time in our two days in Bloem, including a visit to Oliewenhuis and a whirlwind drive through town and neighbouring suburbs. We did not get to sample any of the night life, so we'll be back!

Bloemfontein Links:
Bloemfontein Hotels
Bloemfontein Accommodation
Bloemfontein Attractions
Things to Do in Bloemfontein

Street in Rouxville

The southern-most town in the south-eastern Free State, Rouxville virtually falls off the map it so seldom makes it onto anyone's travel agenda, but as a destination to get away from it all (completely and utterly) the town definitely qualifies as one of the best bets.

At first glance the town appears to lack the attraction of nearby towns like Smithfield — where restaurants, art galleries, their very own Boere mark and general joie de vivre (if you discount the local supermarket that charged three times what it should have for an iceberg lettuce!) — and Lady Grey — where a gorgeous setting up against the Maluti Mountains, close knit community and simply deliciously restored homes win hands down.

But I run away with myself. We chose Rouxville as our destination based on a Smithfield tourism website that made it sound, well, made it sound a little more enticing than it turned out to be. But the effect of having heard that there was a secret life in the little town, and that all you had to do was look a little further than the main road, meant I couldn't shake the idea that Rouxville really is a place just awaiting discovery. Which in many ways it is. Our journey to Rouxville was particularly pretty. We left Victoria West along the beautifully scenic R63 that takes one all the way to Graaf Reinet, joined the N1 again until just beyond Colesberg and then took the R701 via Bethulie to Smithfield before turning onto the N6 to Rouxville.

Smithfield is an extremely pretty town, nestled up against the mountains. It's apparently the third oldest village in the Free State and has obviously recently undergone something of a revival, as the main road is filled with lively looking restaurants and art galleries, many of which, unfortunately, seemed to be up for sale — a sign of the times? Despite this, the town has something of an atmosphere. It's clean and tidy, has obviously attracted a group of artists and 'out of towners' and is definitely somewhere you could spend more than a little time.

It's also home to The Famous Pig Out, a restaurant in Wessels Street. The turn of the century Cape Dutch style house alone is worth the detour and the food is said to be wonderful! (we didn't manage to indulge). And the 'pig out'? Well, that alludes to the size of the portions, which are apparently more than generous. The owners support the slow food movement, which means you'll be able to savour local (they have their own organic vege garden), made with love, served with flavour, lekker kind of fare.

But on to Rouxville. I have to say that our accommodation on Albertain Street (the street wasn't clearly marked, so we stopped and asked the local policeman as he was strolling up from the main road) more than saved the day. We found ourselves in one of those incredibly big (high-ceilinged, expansive rooms) old, Cape cottage-style homes that has been beautifully restored. Tinkerbell was just lovely, and cheap to boot, which means stealing down here from Johannesburg with a group of friends (the cottage sleeps up to ten people, although eight comfortably) to idle away a long weekend is probably one of the best breaks you can imagine — there's a large room with a pool table and turntable to while away evenings usually reserved for partying.

The owners, Celeste and Melanie, intend retiring here. It began when they fell in love with the home that is now Tinkerbell online and bought it out right. They say Rouxville chose them, rather than the other way around. It then seemed a shame to leave the now renovated home standing, used only when they made it down from Pretoria, and so they began leasing the house to like-minded people. It did so well, that the pair have now bought a second home, this time a sandstone affair with a completely different personality, called 'Pandora', and aimed at smaller more intimate stays.

Celeste is well aware that the town still lacks the restaurant and arty shops on the main drag that act as an instant appeal, but she feels it's only time before these appear. The people of Rouxville, the two inform me, are incredibly friendly and helpful, and it's quite an experience to simply sit on the stoep and listen to the stories that emerge from passers by.

Pity about their immediate neighbour, who stood idly watching us from his back garden, coffee mug in hand, surrounded by his dogs, not a smile or any sign of recognition when I raised my hand in welcome, whilst he stood sipping coffee next to his bakkie, its front laden with various ox horns. And this on a Sunday morning – wasn't he supposed to be in church, or something?

In Rouxville the streets are wide and generous, even if untarred (the main road through town is). The properties are big and some of the beautiful, old Cape cottages have been bought and restored. There is an element of interest from out-of-towners, but nothing like Smithfield. Yet there is a wonderful sense of safety. And you wake in the morning to the sound of cows and the crowing of roosters, not traffic or noisy neighbours.

There are a couple of shops where you can stock up on milk and bread (and not much else) and whilst there are rumours of a restaurant, I certainly didn't see it. The tuisnywerheid-come-supermarket on the main road stocks real farm milk — just look out for the two-litre fanta bottles filled with a white substance in one of their fridges. But don't expect anything as advanced as homemade bread!

Rouxville is well placed, and exploring from here is great. Zastron is only 30 kilometres away, as is Aliwal North, but in the other direction. The Gariep Dam is around 60 kilometres away, and Lesotho and the Drakensberg are accessible. Like other towns this close to Lesotho, Rouxville has sightings of the Maluti Mountains. This together with its other claims to fame — the gorgeous sandstone church, a few historical houses, a tractor museum, a smattering of B&Bs and a highly sought after peaceful atmosphere – make it a wonderful breakaway in my eyes.

Useful Links:
Rouxville Attractions
Smithfield Accommodation
Smithfield Guest Houses
Free State Accommodation

Parys with a y

Somewhere along the Vaal River on the Northern side of the Free State lies a little town that speaks a different language. This language is shown through a whole Saturdays worth of antique and art shops. You almost find yourself in a different country at a different time where red wine and discussions on art are at the order of the day. In the background of this little town you hear the calm flow of water that will at some point reach the Atlantic Ocean.

My first meeting with the little town of Parys is a saloon type bar a few minutes outside of town. My bike becomes a horse as I stable it and enter the scenery as if part of a wild west movie, but instead of being an outsider I am immediately treated as a friend. This sets the trend for a town that thrives on weekends and rests during the week ...

Parys itself has an antique or art shop every few steps. I step into the first one and find a world long forgotten by most of us... a French oak dressing table stares at me and I can almost hear it whisper a story of beauty as it has helped many generations of girls before being courted by a young gentleman. In the next corner is an enormous yellowwood treasure chest. I open it and smell the toys that once made children happy, a lifetime filled with excitement and hours of play can be found in this little piece of history.

There is a door with the most intricate detail that allows you to view paintings of women sitting still and staring into the unknown, I try and find out what they are staring at only to find more pieces of history that create more stories.

A man stops me as I leave this world of centuries past and shares his pride with me. His pride is this collection that he sells and is more than willing to share the stories of. He shows me a piece of furniture that dates back to the early 1900’s and an engraving at the bottom that was left by a father to his son. The chest becomes a person, a part of a story that I can only imagine.

I sit down at one of the numerous coffee shops and even before the waiter arrives I am welcomed with a smile and a question. “Have you seen our Eiffel Tower?” I have heard that there is a miniature replica here in the small town of Parys about 12000 miles from the original. They direct me to the two replicas that I would later find and appreciate for its sheer presence here.

I am then treated to a beer tasting at small pub that only serves beer from local micro breweries. The town is shared with me from the perspective of three people that involve me in their stories and I cannot help become a part of this place for the remainder of their stories.

Andre and Leandrie are locals that prefer to stay here and drive the 50km to Vanderbijlpark to work. They understand that quality of life is of great importance and they can find that here. The river makes its presence known again as I settle down outside with a late dinner. There is no traffic, only the odd retired couple walking with their dog. Much different to the Parys that you would find on a Saturday when this becomes the playground of Johannesburg. On Saturdays you’ll find jazz bands and elaborate breakfasts all served in a little piece of history.

I cannot help but wonder how many histories are kept within the walls of the antique shops and how many stories are hidden in every piece so neatly placed on endless shelves. I can only hope to find the pictures and sounds of times past in the gramophone in the window sill or the old school film camera on the wall...

Parys with a here in the Free State shares the history of her bigger brother but it is served with true South African flair. A town where the Cape Dutch buildings are part of designer furniture and Free State veld. That is ‘Y’ ...

Parys Links:
Parys Attractions
Things to Do in Parys
Parys Accommodation
Free State Accommodation

Kroonstad Sky

For more than 8500 kilometres I have cycled with a tent, sleeping bag and mattress not opening any of the bags at any point during this two month journey. In Kroonstad I had to. Every piece of equipment still in its packaging and with the smell of new I pitch my tent under the stars of this Free State town. As the little piece of blue canvass grows into a shelter from the cold night, I become excited and almost feel like that boy who pitched his tent in the back yard of his house 20 years ago.

I unzip the top section and from my newly blown up mattress I can see the stars hidden away by a singular tree that would shade me from the predicted rain. My thoughts start wandering and eventually ends at the point where I entered Kroonstad during the mid afternoon sun with a light breeze helping me forget about the sun on my bare skin...

In Kroonstad I met people. In fact I met two people that helped me understand more about this town and the Free State. Their characters were ones that showed little fear and much determination.

Kroonstad

David is a gardener. He sits himself down next to me on a soft piece of grass as I am eating a late afternoon snack. With him he has a plastic crate filled with all the items you would associate with maintaining a garden. David walks five kilometers every day with his heavy equipment in order to tend the gardens of the people here. “Do you have a garden?” Unfortunately not, I answer, as I try and understand the movements and choice of word that he uses. He loves what he does. In fact he has been working to perfect his art for more than two decades. He shows me a house across the street, “that’s my garden”. He shines with a certain pride in the work of his hands. I understand that this man gives meaning and beauty to the gardens of other people; completely selfless he shares his talent with a community that appreciates every flower that he has carefully given water to.

I cycle further in the town. I am stunned by the sandstone buildings that stand tall amongst later generation buildings. They were built with what the area has provided and are a sort of public statement of how beautiful the Northern Free State is without being vain. The afternoon has gone chilly and as I reach for something to cover my sun burnt skin I see a sign that I automatically connect to the warm taste of coffee.

Kroonstad

The coffee is hot, but I’ve heard that the people in this area are known for this. I swallow the first sips slowly and realize that I’m being watched closely. Well my cycle is standing next inside the coffee shop so I’m not that easy to miss. I can sense that this man wants to ask me a question but I wait to see how he decides to approach the scenario. “I like to talk a lot” he suddenly blurts out and from that moment he does not stop for a second. He has an opinion about everything, he admires most things and it seems that he enjoys sharing ideas. I am grateful for the conversation. As he carries on I listen intently to how he structures his words and how he explains the dreams of others.

His family used to own the fruit and vegetable shop down the street but when his father passed away many years ago they decided to sell it. He mentions that he is lonely but before I can ask about this statement he has already moved on to tell me that the Free State gives you great friends, honest ones.

My thoughts start trickling back to where the stars are in focus. I can hear the river from where I am lying and I smile. This place has a unique beauty. An owl disrupts my thoughts and for a moment I don’t quite understand why it has taken me so long to find a camping spot near a river or in the veld to pitch my tent ...

Kroonstad Links:
Kroonstad Attractions
Kroonstad Map
Kroonstad Accommodation
Free State Accommodation

Gariep Dam

If your perception of the Free State is that of a land-locked dry province far from the oceans then you’d be right. But also wrong. Slap bang in the middle of South Africa is an expanse of water so vast that you can easily imagine that you’re spending your days at the coast. Only here you can enjoy the views, the fishing and the watersports without having to contend with sand, salt, wind and crowds of people. Just my kind of a ‘seaside’ holiday.

Recently rebranded as Lake Gariep, the largest dam in South Africa covers an area of 352 square kilometres when full – more than twice the size of the Vaal dam and even bigger than some small countries. In fact I could dazzle you for a good long while about megalitres of water and cubic metres of cement in the dam wall, but the only really important fact you need to know is that the lake is so huge that you can gaze at the sunset on the horizon without seeing land on the other side.

Gariep Dam is situated just off the N1 so a convenient place to break a long journey, but I would urge you to spend a little longer than one night in this tranquil little haven as there’s plenty to keep the whole family occupied for much longer. The more upmarket hotels and the large Aventura resort are found in Gariep town and this side of the dam therefore has the most to offer in terms of watersports, organised activities, shops and restaurants. A very pleasant sunset cruise departs each evening.

Those seeking a more tranquil laid-back break will find a great little campsite and reasonably priced self-catering chalets on the Oviston side of the dam. If your perfect holiday is a combination of lazing around, fishing and exploring the nature reserve then this is the place to stay. At Oviston there are motor boats to hire if you want to explore the dam or fish deeper waters for yellowfish, carp and barbel.

The Oviston Nature Reserve is well-stocked with game including springbok, red hartebeest, mountain zebra, ostrich, black wildebeest, gemsbok and reedbuck. As the reserve is used for hunting at certain times of the year we found the animals rather skittish, but seeing the huge herds stampeding and pronking was a magnificent and unusual spectacle in its own right. The viewpoint at the top of Reedbuck Heights gives a panoramic vista of the dam and reserve. On our way back from this spot we were lucky enough to get close to a pair of aardwolves – a rare sighting that the larger game reserves in South Africa have thus far failed to deliver to me. What’s more, there is no charge for driving around the reserve so in terms of value for money it’s up there with the best of them.

At the time we visited the dam was 90% full and had recently been overflowing due to heavy rains upstream. That must have been an amazing spectacle — even with the sluice gates closed the dam wall is impressive. We marvelled at sheer power of the water coming out of the hydro-electric plant and back into the Orange River. It is possible to take a tour right inside the dam wall and learn more about this incredible structure, but on this trip we found the views from the top gave us plenty to admire. Gazing at the coloured sailing boats in the late afternoon light it would have been easy to believe that we were in the Greek Isles. A very lovely and yet bizarre vista to find right on the edge of the dry Karoo.

Useful Gariep Dam Links:
Gariep Dam Nature Reserve
Gariep Dam Attractions
Gariep Dam Accommodation
Free State Accommodation

I see a crop of sunflowers every so many kilometers around the city of Bloemfontein and it strikes me… the beauty of these yellow flowers has much more to offer than oil and butter. That plant that shows its face only to the sun has a beauty that few recognize. The crop I stop at is big and the flowers at full bloom. At closer inspection I see that their faces are big enough for me to put my arms around. Fascinated I inspect closer, some taller than others and some with their heads more upright, but every single flower has a complicated construction of seeds that are framed by yellow leaves that borders them perfectly. I take one seed from the construction and realize that at this moment I am holding life in its purest form. I am holding the start of what will in a next season bring someone else the happiness of beauty.

Captivated by the exploration of life and beauty I realize that these flowers are much like humans. We seek the sun, complicated and with borders of absolute beauty. And like these flowers we also have a circle to finish.

These thoughts take me into Bloemfontein, the city of roses and the capital of the farming province, Free State. I am supposed to meet up with long lost friends and the idea excited me. I’ll be able to measure their growth by what this city presents. Johan van Tol and his wife Ronel are a couple in love like a rose on Valentines Day has become a symbol of love.

As I see them closer I remember the last time I spent time with Johan, in Bloemfontein he showed me Navel Hill with the stars shining like many unopened gifts. We enjoy wine and mussels here and discuss the dreams of a future with the ambitions of a first year student. They are almost in greeting distance as I suddenly remember their wedding. Vows that were exchanged at the perfect venue, with word that I can still see burning in their eyes as I greet them.

Johan takes my thoughts on life further when he explains that he now measures water levels, he works with the earth that grows the beauty of South Africa. Later, around a fire, I realize that this Bloemfontein has made him appreciate the earth like only a farmer would, rainfall and sun now the metaphors he uses when discussing dreams and life. This city has also calmed him down and I can see the presence of contentment in his eyes as the fire dimly lights up his face. Ronel comes out and joins us only for a second. Playfully she puts her hands through his hair and then giggles at her creation. She also found her happiness in this city where they have both found life.

Early the next morning I wake up and explore what the city has to offer. Bloemfontein is more like an enormous town than a city. The vast and flat landscape is represented by the city’s movement. I find myself at the waterfront and the gracious movement of the people makes me stop for a moment. People are almost floating here as they slowly move from one place to the other. They take the time to look at the water and a lasting glance turns into a smile. Children are running along the walkway and only stop to peek if they have not lost their parents.

Family life is plentiful. I cannot help but stare at young couples with children or teenagers spending more time with their parents than I remember I did. I return to the home of my hosts. I see their garden now for the first time in daylight. The landscape has manifested herself here with flowers and herbs which Ronel is picking to use with dinner.

Bloemfontein has taught me more about life. Not the type of ‘life’ that I have come to know. Rather a life that in a form that feeds on many more levels than the grassy veld suggests at first. I leave the golden veld sown with patches of green and roll the sunflower seed once more in the palm of my hand. Abundant life, life in all its wonderful facets, shown by the small seed of a sunflower.

Useful Bloemfontein Links:
Bloemfontein Attractions
Things to Do in Bloemfontein
Bloemfontein Accommodation
Bloemfontein Hotels
Free State Hotels

Photographs of Clarens © SA-Venues.com

Click on the thumbnails to view the photographs:

Clarens Links:
Clarens Attractions
Things to Do in Clarens
Clarens Map
Clarens Accommodation
Clarens Hotels
Free State Hotels

Rosendal Country Retreat

Rosendal has managed to get onto the map. I'm not sure how, because in searching for it you begin to wonder how the average person gets there at all, nevermind how the former farming community managed to find its way into the social whirl of a 'happening' little town. Nonetheless, there it is. In the middle of the Free State (see, I told you it was in the middle of nowhere).

Getting there from Clarens takes almost two hours because, instead of being able to get there directly as a crow would fly, roads take you in a rather circuitous route via Ficksburg; you can't get there easily from Bethlehem; and the N1 ventures absolutely nowhere near it ... Despite this, Rosendal is only a three-hour drive south-east of Johannesburg, albeit circuitously (boy, the drive from Ficksberg is one of the most beautiful when it comes to Free State drives), and entirely do-able for the weekend. Infact, to hear Rosendalers speak, this is quite the place when it comes to weekend breaks ...

Rosendal Theatre

The other thing you need to know about Rosendal is Chris van Niekerk (the actor who plays Francois in 7de Laan? Ja, him). Chris not only has a shop – die Our Handelshuis en Koffiestoep — in Rosendal, but he opened a theatre right next door a few years ago that is still going strong. In fact, Chris has done so well with this little venture that recently featured Karen Zoid over the Valentine's weekend, that he's been roped into running the new theatre in Tulbagh too.

What is it then about Rosendale that has everyone gawping? First of all, it isn't Clarens. Despite the fact that we will always LOVE Clarens, the town definitely no longer holds the allure of a 'newly discovered' dorp. Artists haven it might once have been, but now everyone's been there and done that. It's a bit passé, darling. Rosendal, however, is brimming over with 'dorpness'.

There are dirt roads that intend remaining sand ridden; there is a lot of sandstone in evidence, tin roofs, quaint rustic cottages, rusty windmills, an already admirable collection of artists, and of course, the theatre. The town also happens to have simply beautiful views. It is surrounded, just about, by mountains (the Witteberge), a healthy number of green willow trees line the sides of streams, and wild flowers and grasses litter the roadsides. It's a picture of beauty and quaintness. Small wonder that people are talking about it.

Meer-katkolonie Gallery

Fifteen years ago, properties in Rosendal went for a song. You could get away with paying around R9,000 for your little peace of heaven. But by 2006 the place was being touted as the 'undiscovered gem' of the Eastern Free State and the tide turned – the likes of Pam Golding moved in, and the rest is history.

Now you'll pay in the region of R200,000 for a  piece of sand, no home, no established garden – nothing – and a 3-bedroom house will easily cost you as much as it would in Johannesburg, if not more. And they're not all the sandstone 'huisies' with a stoep that you have in your mind's eye (although there are enough of these in the village to make a stay here seem that way).

But then city 'escapes' have become huge for those who can afford to get away over weekends, and more often if possible. There is something hugely important about being able to breathe fresh air, and the sky here is so blue, it even gives the description so often used for the Free State – 'big sky country' – a run for its money. From one end of town the mountain views are incredible, and from the other you can experience heavenly sunsets. And one cannot reitterate enough how beautiful this part of the Free State is.

NG Kerk Rosendal

The main road through town is the only one to have undergone the indignity of a tar top, and it's where you'll find the heart of town — local artists' galleries, Turksvy Trading for antiques, general bric-a-brac (it's choc-a-block full of interesting things) and what they term 'retro kitchenalia'. Suzani's, which sells some pretty unique handmade cloths, even if they're imported from Uzbekistan and similar, and the Meer-katkolonie Art Gallery are also here. Make sure you have time for at least a cup of coffee at Die Ou Handelshuis, and if you can coincide a visit with a theatre performance, more's the better.

Oh, and make time to drive around the town to look at the architecture, beautiful gardens, and the oh-so-dominant, sandstone NG kerk. It's a typical Free State town with a touch of artistic licence that gives it something people want to hold onto – no surprise that it's as popular as it is.

Accommodation in Rosendal is still a tad scarce. Most people here either stay here or have a weekend house to escape to, but there is a gorgeous country retreat and the odd guesthouse in Rosendal that more than adequately cater for those sweeping through or scoping the place in the hope of finding their little 'gem' – I must tell you though, the secret's out, and Rosendal has already been discovered.

Useful Rosendal Links:
Rosendal Attractions
Rosendal Accommodation
Rosendal Guest Houses
Free State Guest Houses

Photo Credits:
The Rosendal Country Retreat (highly recommended!)
NG Kerk photograph by Jan de Beer, Saturday Star

Photographs by and © Stefani & Iain:

Click on the thimbnails to view the photograhs:

Useful Free State Links:
Golden Gate National Park
Eastern Free State
Eastern Free State Accommodation
Free State Accommodation

Scraps of Hope

You may recall lasts weeks post about Ruan Smit — the enterprising young cyclist who sets off on his "Explore South Africa Cycle Tour" on the 13th February. (see the article here — Collecting people's stories — cycling 9000km in 70 days). Ruan will be sending us weekly snippets and stories abut his experiences on the road during his tour to share with our readers — and here is the first. Says Ruan — "I'm spending some time in the Free State, doing some training and trying to get to some other towns — and wrote this article for you ..."

"I’m in Ficksburg today, and I could tell you how beautiful the mornings are, that it’s at the foot of the Drakensberg, that before the rain falls there’s usually a sandstorm that precedes it. I could tell you that it’s the cherry capital of South Africa and that the sun shines a blistering silence during the day. But all these things you will probably find if you Google "Ficksburg" ...

I rather want to tell you about two ladies that inspire this little Free State dorpie. Two ladies that lost everything a few years ago… well Sandra kept the dog…

I haven’t even settled into my room when Sandra starts bombarding me with their story. It’s a story about love, commitment, perseverance and scrap ideas. I’m not even going to bother telling you how they ended up having nothing because this is not what their story is about. Their story is about gaining more than they’ve ever had. More than they’ve ever dreamed was possible. And it all started with scrap metal. Yes, old pots, pans, wire, frames, anything you can buy from a scrap yard.

As I enter the gate, Sandra welcomes me with a pink umbrella that I’m sure she’s stolen from her daughter. She takes me to my room and explains that this room was built from stone that a friend gave her when she had the idea of building a guest house. The room is perfectly odd, but beautiful. She starts telling me that when she had to furnish the room she had no money, so she started picking up random pieces of scrap metal from scrap yards to turn into furniture. This inspired a concept for which people drive hours to get a glimpse of.

As she animatedly tells me her story she invites me for dinner where I would meet her Ansie. Ansie is her partner in crime, her business partner. The one that has more energy than most teenagers.

Ansie and Sandra are two middle aged ladies that find creativity in everything. When they were given the challenge they rose to the occasion and produced an idea so unique you would never imagine stealing it. They make art from scrap. What?! That’s the reaction from many a visitor as the get a first glimpse of their ‘gallery’.

They now employ ten artists that work full time on the crazy ideas they have. But when it all started these two ladies only had Paul. Together they took a welding course at the community centre and with broken Sotho built a skill that has now become a little empire of random scrap metal.

What they do is, take scrap metal from anywhere they can find it and literally transform it into something beautiful. They even have bakkies coming from Lesotho selling them rusted pots and pans for money to feed the children. Since they’ve started, Ansie has become a motivational speaker, spreading her positive energy throughout South Africa. She speaks about how anything can become something beautiful, no matter how rusted it is, inspiring. These two ladies take the time to listen to people. In their garden there is an artwork that reads “Where there is coffee, there is company.” And they are always ready to sit down and have coffee.

They’ve put life back into this town. When people drive here to see their exhibit they help this little town to become what it is supposed to be. A town full of life, a town full of extraordinary people.

When I ask them if I could take a picture the chatter stops instantaneously. “Not like this!” Before my eyes they transform into the caricatures their artwork portrays. With some red lipstick and two hats made from pots they are all of a sudden ‘presentable’. They pout, sit upright and face the camera. They’ve obviously done this before…

If you ever pass this town hidden in the up hills of the Eastern Free State stop over at their place. Or better, if you have nothing to do over a weekend take the trip to this little dorpie. Have lunch with them and meet their artwork. You’ll be pleasantly surprised".

Follow Ruan's experiences with us here: Explore South Africa Cycle Tour.
Follow Ruan on his Facebook Page or to read more about his trip see Explore SA Cycle Tour.

Useful Ficksburg Links:
Ficksburg Attractions
Ficksburg Cherry Festival
Ficksburg Accommodation
Free State Accommodation

I ♥ Clarens

Hi, I’m Gavin Northcote from Highland View in Clarens in the Eastern Free State.
CLARENS IS BEST KNOWN FOR great scenery, the outdoors, restaurants and galleries.
GET YOUR PICTURE TAKEN by a friend in front of NG Church in the main street. It is the most beautiful old sandstone building in Clarens.
THE BEST SCENIC PICTURES CAN BE TAKEN AT the Golden Gate just 15 minutes outside Clarens.

WHEN THE WEATHER'S GOOD, I LIKE TO hike on the many footpaths, and play tennis.
WHEN THE WEATHER'S BAD, I LIKE TO visit the many art galleries and coffee shops.
I THINK THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT IS April and May, because of the beautiful autumn colours in the tree around Clarens. September and October are also special months, when the new green leaves of spring are starting to immerge, and all the fruit tree blossoms are in full bloom ...

278 On Main in Clarens

MY FAVOURITE BREAKFAST SPOT IS 278 on Main. Sue has created a wonderful eatery which serves hearty meals. The Steak and Guinness Pie is a must.
FOR LUNCH, I SUGGEST Valley Cats. Jeanette van der Merwe’s special touch can be seen in all she serves from the cakes with coffee, right through to the carefully created panini’s and chicken pie.
MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT IS Valley Cats, try the Biltong Salad .
BEST LATE NIGHT SNACK FROM The Highlander Adventurer and Pub.
MY FAVOURITE PICNIC SPOT IS at Golden Gate National Park.

FOR A NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN TRY Clementine’s Restaurant – a cut above the rest and a real treat if you can afford it. Sometimes they have live entertainment.
IF YOU WANT TO MEET LOCALS, GO TO The Post House.

I ♥ Clarens

CLAREN'S BEST KEPT SECRET IS The Blanket Shop, just up the hill towards Bethlehem. Mrs Demezza will be glad to welcome you in. (The Blanket Shop is famous for its traditional Basotho blankets — and has supplied blankets to the Basotho people for over fifty years. A great deal of African tradition can be experienced at this quaint shop, which is still designed as the original ‘trading store’ where all sorts of odds and ends can be found).

MY FAVOURITE THING TO DO WITH FRIENDS IS to go for a pizza at The Highlander. Their food is always of a high standard, whether it be steak, fish or vegetarian pizza.
TO RELAX AND RESTORE MY SOUL, I LIKE TO walk around the town during the week.
IF YOU'RE FEELING ADVENTUROUS, TRY abseiling.
MY FAVOURITE WALK / HIKE IS Mallen Walk. This starts near the tennis courts and winds its way, contouring the west mountain slope around Clarens.
MY FAVOURITE SHOP IS The Secret Garden. The owner, Val, has got a wonderful variety of small and useful gifts for the whole family.

I ♥ Clarens

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN? A FUN OUTING IS Lion Rock, just 40 kms from Clarens outside Bethlehem. Lions from all over the world have been brought to this sanctuary to live out their lives in peace and protection. Game drives can be taken to view not only the lions but also other species of cats and antelope.

BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL OUTING IS is visiting Cascades waterfall in the Northern Drakensberg.
IF MONEY'S NO OBJECT, I'D LIKE TO go hot air ballooning!

MY FAVOURITE WEEKEND GETAWAY IS Hlalanathi Berg Resort, Set in the Northern Drakensberg with pristine views of the Amphitheatre and Tugela River.
WHEN I WANT TO GIVE BACK TO THE COMMUNITY, I spend time in our local township Kgubetswana, caring for HIV/AIDS sufferers.

I ♥ Clarens because of the wonderful people and we’re surrounded by mountains.

Highland View

Highland View

Highland View is a cosy self-catering double storey cottage, overlooking the Maluti Mountains and near Golden Gate in the village of Clarens. North and East facing verandahs and an upstairs balcony, offer generous views of the surrounding picturesque scenery. The upper level of the house offers three comfortable bedrooms on a dark sprung wooden floor. The main bedroom has a private balcony for watching early morning sunrises over the Maluti Mountains. The second ...

Visit Highland View
View Rates or make a Booking

Desirable Digits

Highland View +27 (0)23 614‑2351
278 On Main + 27 (0)82 556‑5208
Valley Cats +27 (0)83 507‑0195
Clementine's Restaurant +27 (0)58 256‑1616
The Highlander Adventurer and Pub +27 (0)58 256‑1912
The Post House +27 (0)58 256‑1534
The Blanket Shop +27 (0)58 256‑1313
Lions Rock +27 (0)58 304‑1691

Useful Clarens Links:
Clarens Attractions
Things to Do in Clarens
Clarens Map
Clarens Accommodation
Clarens Hotels
Free State Hotels
Free State Accommodation

Bloemfontein

Bloemfontein, the City of Roses, serves as something of an oasis, lying as it does plum in the middle of the Free State and indeed the country. The only major city for miles around, it is also the sixth largest city in the country, the Judicial Capital of South Africa, and it lies on the N1 between Johannesburg and Cape Town, often functioning as a stop off to break the major journey between the two cities.

Despite being situated in an area of dry grassland, Bloemfontein more than lives up to its name — spring of flowers. Thousands of rose bushes line the city; more than 4000 rose trees have been planted in the rose gardens in Kings Park, and many homes, still minus the ubiquitous six metre wall of other major cities in South Africa, boast colourful gardens littered with flowering plants and trees. Bloemies, as the locals fondly call her it, is a city of little stress and very few residents buy into the rush, rush syndrome typical of a major city. The city centre is lined with historical buildings, including the beautiful tree-lined President Brand Street — a national monument — its pavements home to several graceful museum buildings, right in the centre of the CBD.

Bloemfontein

Naval Hill, a little nature reserve of 192 odd hectares, set right in the city, is worth a drive through. Set on a hill as it is, it not only provides a welcome respite from all things city, but also gives a bird’s eye view over the city. And the extremely modern Orchid House, which lies at the western foot of Naval Hill in Hamilton Park, lays claim to the world’s largest collection of orchids. There is also a fragrance garden for the blind close to Orchid House.

There is no shortage of things to do in Bloemfontein: The Art in the Park, held in Kings Park on the first Saturday of every month is an extremely popular event amongst residents; Loch Logan Waterfront offers a series of restaurants, shops, pubs and entertainment, and the Oliewenhuis Art Gallery — a beautiful neo-Cape Dutch house with frequent exhibitions and sprawling lawns — has gardens under shade trees that provide a wonderful space in which to picnic or simply enjoy tea at the little garden tea house.

Accommodation in Bloemfontein and near Free State Stadium:
Find Accommodation in the Free State for the 2010 World Cup by using our Free State map designed to show distances in kilometres from the Free State Stadium to towns within a 40km, 80km, 120km and 160km radius. See: Free State Stadium Accommodation.

Useful Links for planning your 2010 Trip:
Bloemfontein Attractions
Things to Do in Bloemfontein
Bloemfontein Map
Free State Stadium
Bloemfontein Hotels
Bloemfontein Accommodation

The Ficksburg Festival takes place this year from 18 to 20 November 2010!

Cherry Festival

Ficksburg didn't mean that much to me until I visited the pretty little town set on the banks of the Caledon River. It lies at the foot of the beautiful Imperani Mountain in the Free State, for those of you who didn't know, and I had only heard of it before the festival because a school friend of mine hailed from there (and since we were at school in Durban at the time, you can understand how she was regarded with a fair amount of  incredulity).

First off let me say that if you're a fan of cherries, then this is the festival to attend. For the last couple of years at least, cherries seem to have given the shelves of my local Pick n Pay the run around. That, or they were in and off the shelves so fast that I didn't even catch a whiff of the dainty red stoned fruit! Thus a trip to the Eastern Free State around the third week of November may be the closest you will get to this delectable dainty ...

Cherry Blossom

The Ficksburg Cherry Festival is the longest running festival in South Africa – 42 years old this year. The whole town comes out in celebration. There is a huge market, cherry tours, a half marathon, cherry product competitions, beer fests, a new food and wine fiesta, the incredibly popular, and slightly horrifying, cherry pip-spitting contest, the 'ready, steady, bake' competition as well as a quick lesson in how to make cherry mampoer, a cherry liqueur known as the local 'moonshine'.

Since I was there the festival has had a slight shift in focus and now sport is placed high on the list of agenda, which is probably not going to do that much by way of encouraging me to return. But a rather large percentage of our society would scorn my general disregard for sport, and would love to watch ex stars of the cricket, soccer and rugby world sharing their skills with young hopefuls.

The Steam Train

If, however, you're after something with a little more culture, then there are visits to both cherry and asparagus farms, and cruises along the waterways just outside the town of Ficksburg aboard what is described as the country's only floating cigar bar known as the White Mischief, which includes a gourmet meal and several malt whiskies. There are cooking workshops for the more creative at heart, or you can do as we did – take a steam train from Sandstone Estate and escape Ficksberg completely, cherries in tow!

The steam train, in similar fashion to the now no longer functioning Apple Express in the Eastern Cape, leaves Ficksburg and travels through farmlands towards the Caledon River on the Lesotho border. It was an amazing journey filled with sunflowers, fields of corn, amazing examples of sandstone farmhouses and an incredible sunset.

The Scenery

It gives you a couple of hours to quietly reflect and gaze at scenery whilst reliving what it must have been like in the days when steam engines were the main form of transport around the country. The downside was that we left our ride until pretty late – hence I was starving and our entire quota of cherries for the weekend quite depleted by the time of our return (we hadn't reckoned on the length of the journey).

There is also an annual Reefsteams Association steam train ride to the Cherry Festival from Boksburg East, if steam trains are your thing, although by all accounts these are already fully booked! (contact them on +27 (0)11 956‑6409)

Ficksburg Cherry Festival

During our visit, we managed to stay in a little cottage in the neighbouring town of Fouriesburg, as by the time we began our search for somewhere to stay, all the 'spots' in town had already gone. Totally off the beaten track we had a little cottage set beneath a pretty bower of jasmine all to ourselves, and could use the excuse of travel to lie in in the mornings (we had family to meet at the festival).

The first successfully planted cherry trees in the country were in the Clocolan district in the year 1905, brought into South Africa by German missionaries with early settlers. Today there are around 500 hectares worth of cherry trees in the Eastern Free State mainly in and around Ficksburg, Clocolan and Fouriesburg. Cherries are harvested from October to December (hence the choice of November for the festival).

Cherry Picking

This same region is also known as the asparagus region of South Africa and from September, hundreds of tons of asparagus are harvested. I can attest to how delectable this particular vegetable is when fresh from the farm!

But it is the tiny ruby-red fruit, ripe and ready to eat that is undoubtedly the star of the festival. Take a tour to neighbouring orchards to pick and guzzle and perhaps, by the close of the weekend, you may have satiated your desire for this luscious delicacy.

For those of you who actually intend returning with enough cherries intact (ungobbled) to follow this recipe, it is well worth savouring, and borrowed from the official cherry festival website, courtesy Ronel Thake-Fouriesia:

Danish Cherry Tart
Fill a flaky pastry shell of flan case with stoned cherries, soaked in sugar and sprinkle with a pinch of cinnamon.

Cover the cherries with a mixture of the following:
100g softened butter
100g sugar
100g ground almonds
2 eggs

Bake the tart in an oven at a moderate temperature. Leave to cool, cover with gooseberry jelly and glaze with rum.

Enjoy!

Useful Links:
Cherry Festival
Ficksburg Attractions
Ficksburg Accommodation
Fouriesburg Accommodation
Free State Accommodation

River Rafting

Don't let the fact that the Free State is completely landlocked, and described with  regularity as 'flat', deter you from seeking adventure in this hidden treasure.

The Northern Free State, possibly because of its proximity to Gauteng, is fast earning itself a reputation for perfect weekend getaways that include the Vaal River, Vaal dam and numerous game farms that together with the Vredefort Dome, pretty undulating hills, and the 'golden country' of the Central Free State — dotted with fields of corn and sunflowers and plenty of modern little towns — and not forgetting 'Bloemies', as Bloemfontein is fondly known, combine for perfect, sun-filled adventure opportunities ...

And the Southern Free State is as beautiful. The southern boundary is formed by the Orange River, which rises in the Maluti Mountains, and feeds the Gariep Dam — another source of adventure activities. Thabo Mofutsanyana, regarded as the most scenic part of the Free State, to the east, lies on the edge of the Drakensberg and Maluti Mountains and includes the Golden Gate National Park, as well as the winning villages of Ficksburg and Clarens.

There's little that the Free State, which lies right in the middle of South Africa and many describe as its heart, doesn't hold by way of adventure and outdoor living.

Sky Dive Bloem

Skydiving just outside Bloemfontein:
There is probably little that beats the adrenaline rush of skydiving. Just outside Bloemfontein is one of the country's skydiving clubs, said to be the oldest in the country, at Tempe airport. Even if you've never skydived before, learning how to jump from an aeroplane, in tandem, in South Africa is one of the best places to learn – considering the number of cloud-free days the country enjoys! (particularly the Free State).

Besides the rush of adrenaline and the obvious gravitational pull, the aerial scenery is up there with the best. Hurtling earthwards, the blue of the sky behind you, and the undulating hills of the Free State meagre blips below you is difficult to beat.

Contact: Bloemfontein Skydiving Centre on +27 (0)51 451‑1143 or +27 (0)76 394‑6059

More River Rafting

River rafting along the Orange River:
Rowing the Orange River is at once relaxing, incredibly beautiful and at the same time exhilirating, given the magnificence of periodic rapids that swiftly bring you into the present. Depending on your needs, there are trails that break away for anything from two to six days, including hiking and camping on the banks of the Orange River.

Seeing the Free State from the water's edge is a completely different view of things, and sleeping under the stars makes for an awesome adventure combination.

Contact: +27 (0)83 485‑9654

Mountain Biking

Mountain bike the Vredefort Dome (Parys):
The beautiful Vredefort Dome, the world's largest and oldest (2.02 billion years ago) visible blast crater (even if there is still controversy over whether this giant hole is the result of an asteroid impact or a blast from within the Earth's crust) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Yes, you can hike the mountains surrounding the dome or rock climb these heights to view San rock art, but why not go one better and mountain bike the semicircular mountainous landscape.

The tops of the hills give one incredible views of the Vaal River valley, whilst the deep valleys between the hills are home to cool mountain streams and shade from the heat of the day. These trails (Dampoort MTB trails) aren't piddly trails either, but for those wanting something slightly less taxing, try the Hakuna Matata circuit.

Contact: +27 (0)56 818‑1814 or +27 (0)82 475‑8767

Quad Biking

Backpacking the Rooihaas trail in Vredefort Dome:
Still at the dome, for those less interested in cycling and more interested in remaining on your feet, the Rooihaas Hiking Trail is one of a network of hiking trails and mountain bike trails that make their way in and around the Vredefort Dome. The trail is named after the little rock rabbit that occurs in these rocky areas.

It's a fairly tough hike, although the initial hour is along the Vaal River banks with ample opportunity to spot water birds. From there it's uphill with several loop options left entirely to the hiker as to what type of walk you're after (for day one, that is). Day two of the hike is relatively short, by comparison with day one, but filled with history, quiet, beautiful scenery and a chance to get away from it all.

Contact: Dome Trails/Koepelroetes on + 27 (0)18 294‑8572

Quad biking near Clarens:
Experience the Maluti Mountains on a quad bike, just outside of Clarens. Rides vary in length from one-and-a-half to two hours, and aside from acquiring new skills (if you haven't quad biked before) there is also luscious scenery and wonderful hills to ride.

Contact: +27 (0)82 491‑9788

Useful Links:
Check out our section on Things to Do in Free State for more activities and fun things to do whilst on holiday in the Free State. Activities range from horse riding to hiking to fishing and sight seeing ... the beautiful Freer State has a lot to offer the adventure traveller! And book your accommodation in the Free State via SA-Venues.com if you want to save some money. You Deal Direct with the accommodation providers — pay no commission and no service fees, saving you money.

Horses on Free State farm — By and © Peter Taylor (Botswana)

Aldam Lion Man

This is a shout-out to all mountain bike enthusiasts!!  Get out your cycling gear and start practicing because the 3rd Annual Aldam Lion Man Mountain Bike Race will take place on 12 September 2009.

The first Lion Man Mountain Bike race was held at Mabalingwe Nature Reserve in Limpopo 9 years ago. The race has grown from under a 100 cyclists partaking in the event in 2001 to a very exclusive race that now allows a maximum of 1600 cyclists.  This race is now rated as one of the Top mountain bike races in the country ...

The Aldam Lion Man takes place at Aldam Estate in the Free State, offering the trademark Lion Man distances of 35 km and 80 km options through typical bushveld vegetation. Starting and finishing at the Aldam Estate, the routes have been made harder and more technical this year than they were in the past - the long, fast, straight stretches have been exchanged for technical climbs, rocky terrain and single-track.

The short route will still be suitable for families, the less experienced and not-so-fit. The 80 km route promises to be much more challenging than in the past and experienced cyclists can prepare themselves. It also promises to be a fun-day filled for non-cyclists!  There will be entertainment for the youngsters, delicious food and a beer tent for those who prefer to sit back, relax and watch how the participants finishes the grueling race! 

On-line entries will open at the end of July or you can contact the race organizer on +27 (0)57 652‑2200.

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Free State Events
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Free State Landscape

This small town, situated in the foothills of the Maluti Mountains in the East of the province, has firmly established itself as a trendy destination and offers fine dining, arts and crafts, trout fishing, and outdoor activities. This, together with its small town charm, friendly locals and magnificent scenery has made it into a prime artistic destination the town has become a haven for artists with a growing community of famous residents.

Close to Clarens is the Golden Gate National Park offering a wide range of outdoor activities including hiking and horse riding all amongst the magnificent golden sandstone cliffs. Other small towns gaining in popularity are Ficksburg, with its annual cherry festival that draws traders from around the country, and Parys, a sleepy little town with a strong coffee shop culture as well as many arts and crafts shops to browse.

The Free State province borders on Lesotho and there are many Basotho in the province with the Basotho Cultural Village straddling the border between the Free State and the kingdom of Lesotho. The village is is a worthwhile stop on the itinerary, for anyone in learning more about indigenous culture in the area. If discovering ancient historic sites are your thing then a visit to the Vredefort Dome, site of a giant meteor impact over two million years ago, should be on your agenda.

Despite being landlocked, the Free State offers much in the way of water sports, from the trout fishing in the Eastern highlands to the much less sedate white water rafting on the Ash River, which offers dependable, year-round enjoyment.

Bloemfontein

Bloemfontein, the capital of the province, is a small and pleasant city, offering all of the amenities of modern living, but at a pace that is a little slower than its counterparts in the other provinces are.

The Free State's borders are defined on two sides by rivers — the famous Vaal, separating it from the bustling province of Gauteng, and the Orange River to the South, starting in Lesotho. Locals used to call the area Gariep, and it is this area that is home to the enormous Gariep Dam, a magnet for water sports enthusiasts from around the country.

If a relaxed, laid-back atmosphere, surrounded by natural beauty and friendly people is what you want, then the Free State may be just the place for you to find it.

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For further information or to make bookings, please visit:

• Free State Attractions
• Things to Do in the Free State
• Free State Accommodation
• Free State Hotels