Oncoming traffic became somewhat indistinct, the world took on the ambiance of Narnia (I kept waiting for Mr Tumnus to come trotting out from under a lamppost) and my stomach took the opportunity to inform me that it was more than a little hungry – ravenous probably comes closer!

And so Sabie it was for a quick nosh stop, and I think the restaurant was set in an old train, but I can’t be certain. I think we had pancakes or crêpes, but to tell you the truth, by this stage it could have been anything! Our destination was beginning to feel more and more elusive, and, as the mist continued we had reservations about getting there at all. Perhaps when the mist settled in like this, roads began turning in on themselves because it felt as though we drove around in ever diminishing circles whilst getting nowhere fast.

But that was the tired brain speaking. After food, things even started looking quite romantic, and we set off again in the knowledge that it wasn’t far now. Considering that some of the accommodation in Pilgrims Rest we passed had names like ‘Misty Mountain lodge’, it was obvious that mist was a common occurrence here and that we had nothing to fear.

We pushed on to Mac Mac along the R532 and then on to Pilgrim’s Rest to our campsite on the banks of the Blyde River – because we were one of the only people there that weekend we managed to camp virtually on top of the river in the shade of some trees. The campsite was beautiful, and the bathrooms clean and spacious. The caravan park has subsequently become a partnership between the Mpumalanga Department of public works and Imbali Yezwe Project and is family owned and managed.

Hence it was that we only got to see Pilgrim’s Rest the following morning, after a good lie in and a hearty breakfast.

Pilgrim’s Rest is just gorgeous. The entire town is a national monument in its own right and has also achieved World Heritage status. In a sense, it’s a living museum, a typical little mining town built during the gold rush of the late 1800s, with a modern day overlay. So you get the feeling of the town as it must have been then, yet modern day shops and businesses now inhabit the buildings. You can read all about the town’s fascinating history here – click to view.

We wandered through some of the little curio and arts and crafts shops with names like ‘the Daisy’ and ‘Edwin Woods & Co Wine merchant’ (that was actually a place to stock up on South African wine set in what was once a mission church!). You must make a stop in Kuzzulos Emporium where you get to dress up in old fashioned clothing before posing for a photograph to grace your mantlepiece (something like they do at Gold Reef City).

One of the highlights for me was the Royal Hotel. The Victorian style building is restored to what must have been its former glory and offers beautiful en-suite bedrooms – antique brass beds, wash stands and wardrobes that date back to that era. Walking through their lounge is like being in a time capsule(!) and the hotel’s bar, known as the Church bar (quite amusing if you think of the irony) used to be a Catholic chapel for a school in Cape Town. It was apparently taken apart, bought by wealthy miners to Pilgrim’s Rest (a six week journey!) and then fitted back together again (they obviously had a lot of time on their hands back then).

We could have tried a whole list of touristy type adventures laid out for people wanting the whole experience – gold panning, the Digging Museum, a whirl through a variety of churches, a house museum that survives as a living example of the lifestyle of the town’s original general dealer, but we chose instead to hive off to the town’s historic cemetery.

Set at the top of a hill, overlooking the town, the cemetery is the site of early graves of the town’s residents. We were one of the only visitors to the town who bothered to trek up there, but it’s worth it because of one grave. Known as the Robber’s grave, it lies the opposite way to everyone else’s. Poor man, his crime was no worse than to have stolen other people’s tents from them, but for his sins, he was shot by someone and buried in a way that everyone would remember him (I’ll say nothing about today’s law and order, shall I).

Once we thought we had the town scouted, we headed out on the Panorama Route, also known as the R532 – the northern parts thereof. It’s a famous route that takes in what must be Mpumalanga’s treasure trove – God’s Window, Berlin Falls, Bourke’s Luck Potholes, the Blyde River Canyon and the Three Rondavels. Continue on and the route also incorporates the Maria Shires Waterfall, Mac Mac Falls, Sabie River Gorge, and the Long Tom Pass.

Each of these wonders is worth a stop for the spectacular scenery. Pity we had but four days to explore before returning to the city. But such is life …

Useful Links:
Pilgrims Rest Attractions
Pilgrims Rest Accommodation
Pilgrims Rest Hotels
Mpumalanga Hotels

Photo Credits:
Photographs of Pilgrim’s Rest are Courtesy of and © South African Tourism.

An early start ensures that all of the thirty plus points of interest that fall on this stretch of tar and occasional dirt road, can be ticked off your “to-see” list by the time the colours of dusk take hold of the heavens and the sight in the rear-view mirror takes hold of your contentment. Mother Nature makes grand gestures of rock and water amongst pockets of plains and indigenous plant life all along the drive …

This spectacular excursion commences with a splash at Mac Mac Pools perfected with an accompanying daybreak picnic to be enjoyed waterside. Next stop an impressive plunge where the pouring of morning coffee cascades from a flask into a camping cup to mimic a mini Mac Mac Falls; in combination an unusual drive-through Mac breakfast on the natural side.

One fresh fall leads to another with a stop at Maria Shires Falls and Graves followed by Forest Falls and a forest walk between the pines. Look up at the trees and later look down at local history laid out on the floor of Diggers and Transport Riders Memorial. Drift between scents carried on invisible clouds at the Herb Farm en route.

Next on nature’s treasure hunt curios stands mark the place to park to cross the Natural Bridge and then a hop, skip and a jump links visitors to the town of Graskop where cocoons and silk worms take to the stage at Tsinini Silk Weavery to demonstrate the art of weaving.

Cool off an afternoon with a gorge swim at Panorama Falls; a gaze a Pinnacle Rock and a peep through God’s Window. The highest escarpment viewpoint of Wonder View can be complimented on an itinerary with the highest waterfall in the escarpment, Lisbon Falls. Take in Berlin Falls and some more fresh air and then view an author’s place of rest at Oswald Pirow’s Grave.

Toss a coin into Bourke’s Luck Potholes, cast a gaze at Lowveld View and count the humps from the view of the Three Rondavels. The Blyde River Canyon opens up a view of the third largest canyon in the world. Museum of Man opens up an outdoor amphitheatre of history leading to the location of Echo Caves. A full day of escarpment sight seeing and visual experiences is finally laid to rest at the Voortrekker Fort and Cemetery.

This is a circular route starting and ending in Sabie:
Drive from Sabie: R532 to Graskop.
From Graskop: Follow R532 for 2 km.
Turn off on R534 circular road back towards R532.
Drive on R532 north towards Ohrigstad.
From Ohrigstad return via Lydenburg on R36 or via Pilgrim’s Rest on R533.

Photographs:
Top photograph is of the Elands River Falls, Mpumalanga
Bottom photograph taken at the Blyde River Canyon.

Useful Links:
Panorama Route Attractions
Things to Do in Panorama Route
Panorama Route Accommodation

Leopard at Sabi Sabi Bushlodge in Kruger National Park, South Africa – By and © Greg Lumley

Useful Links:
Visit Greg’s website at http://www.greglumley.com/ or contact Greg on Telephone: +27 (0)83 604-0107

Mpumalanga Adventure

Mpumalanga, bordered by Mozambique and Swaziland, is set mainly on high grasslands which appear to roll indefinitely in an easterly direction. Mountain peaks rise in the north east of the province, providing escarpment plunges into the area known as the Lowveld.

With unique formations like God’s Window, the Blyde River Canyon (South Africa’s largest vegetated canyon), Sudwala Caves, the Three Rondavels and Bourkes Luck Potholes, is it any wonder that adventure is part and parcel of any trip to this part of the country. This is the province where ballooning is regarded as ’sedate’.

Paraglide off the Blyde River Canyon’s cliffs:
The dramatic escarpment of Mpumalanga, the Blyde River Canyon offers some of the best hangliding and paragliding in the country. Not only is there some pretty awesome scenery – the Three Rondawels are huge rocks that appear to simply spiral from the canyon’s wall, and the lookout point at God’s Window provides some of the most incredible views around – but strong thermals and high cloud-base mean that paragliding or hangliding here is in some of the best conditions. If this isn’t enough for you, try paragliding from Lone Tree Hill, Barberton.

Sudwala Caves

Go caving in the Sudwala caves:
The Sudwala caves are the oldest known caves in the world. They lie in the Drakensberg escarpment that separates the Lowveld from the Highveld and are believed to have been formed some 3 000 million years ago.

If it’s adventure you’re after then the Crystal tour is your thing. Whilst the route is not particularly difficult, there are only a few stretches involving crawling through tunnels, which may contain water, it takes you into the very bowels of the earth and 2 000 metres into the cave.

Contact: Sudwala Caves on +27 (0)13 733-4152.

Rhino Walking Safari

Go on a rhino walking safari:
This is a great way to see the Kruger National Park with a difference. Surprisingly, sauntering through Kruger is not as dangerous as it sounds.

What it is, is a totally novel experience. The bush on the back of a 4×4 vehicle is sedate by comparison with the intimidation and surprise of the amazing bush on foot.

At all times you are accompanied by experienced, armed guides, who lead you for hours through the bush, examining not only the animals you might see, but every tree, leaf, insect and flower too. Sleeping out under the stars is simply an added bonus.

Contact: Rhino Walking Safaris on +27 (0)11 467-1881 (or see Rhino Walking Safari)

Abseiling

Abseil or rock climb Elands River gorge at Waterval Boven:
The cliffs and crags at Waterval Boven are voted the best destination in the country, and abseiling is one of the biggest attractions of those seeking an adrenaline high.

This region is also one of the top rock climbing destinations in South Africa and where you’ll find the Restaurant at the End of the Universe. No, it isn’t somewhere you can grab a really good pancake after a really sweaty climb (although there are camping facilities here), rather the Restaurant is one of the best sport climbing areas, bolted with 349 and 100 trad or semi-bolted routes.

Contact: Roc ‘n Rope Adventures on +27 (0)13 257-0363

River Rafting

River rafting on the Sabie River:
This is exhilirating stuff. Negotiating white water rapids on one of the most scenic rivers near Hazyview definitely tops the list of activities. The journey takes you past indigenous forests, over various small rapids and includes numerous dosings with water. Not much chance that you’ll still be dry by the end of the trip.

Contact: Sabie River Adventures on +27 (0)13 737-8266

If none of these activities floats your boat check out our section on Things to Do in Mpumalanga. You will find lots to do including wildlife encounters, horse riding, hiking trails … and lots more to keep you busy for days on end. If you need to book a place to stay see accommodation in Mpumalanga – Deal Direct with the hotels and lodges, you’ll save on service fees and booking commissions.

One of the many waterfalls on the Sabie Route – By and © Suzaan Minnaar (South Africa)

One of nature’s great mysteries is why the Zebra has stripes. One theory is that the stripes help the zebra cool down. The stripes are also used as camouflage to confuse predators when zebras huddle in great numbers or mingle with herds of antelopes … For additional information about these graceful animal please see: Zebra.

Mother & Child Reunion, Kruger National Park – By and © Franciska Pile (South Africa)

Here’s a fabulous photo received yesterday of the Bourkes’ Luck Potholes (for those who don’t know what they are see note below) …

The Potholes in Nelspruit – By and © Andrineth Makgatho (South Africa)

About the Potholes:
Bourkes Luck Potholes are a natural water feature found the beginning of the Blyde River Canyon on the Panorama Route in Mpumalanga. The potholes were formed over countless eons, by the swirling whirlpools, which occur as the Treur River plunges into the Blyde River which have caused waterborne sand and rock to grind these huge, cylindrical potholes into the bedrock of the river. The Potholes were named after a gold digger, Tom Bourke, who staked a claim nearby.  The Potholes are located 35 km north of Graskop on the R532 road. The visitors centre in Graskop is the starting point of the 700m walk to the potholes.

Game Viewing in Kruger

The province of Mpumalanga, which straddles the Drakensberg mountain range, combines the best of both the Lowveld and the Highveld, with humid grasslands below, and cool, quiet forests blanketing the peaks above.

On the Lowveld there are many excellent game viewing opportunities with all kinds of animals populating many game reserves, including a portion of the famous Kruger National Park. The Kruger Park offers luxury accommodation and excellent game drives taken by well-trained guides. 

The Highveld area is no less packed with adventure. You can enjoy fly-fishing on the well-stocked rivers and dams, hiking, river rafting and even abseiling.  The town of Dullstroom in particular is gaining renown as a trout-fishing destination, as well as for other outdoor activities, such as bird watching and horse riding.

This province is also home to the Blyde River Canyon, surpassed in size only by the Grand Canyon, and the Fish River Canyon. It is South Africa’s largest vegetated canyon and is home to many species of plant, bird and animal. One of the most popular activities in the area is river rafting, with tours to suit everyone. Also in the canyon, you will find unique and interesting natural features, such as the Three Rondavels – a series of three hills shaped like traditional African huts, as well as Bourkes Luck Potholes, an area of unique and strange natural canyons and potholes.

Mpumalanga, like most of South Africa, is not without its own, unique African cultural heritage.  Here you can find iconic, graphic and startling Ndebele paintings, traditionally adorning the huts of these people. A visit to the Botshobelo village, a museum chronicling the lives of these people, offers an opportunity to photograph these beautiful buildings.

Pilgrims Rest, a small town steeped in gold mining history, is rather unique in that the whole town is a museum. Activities here include mine tours, crafts and coffee shops, museums and the original restored hotel.

From awesome canyons carved into the earth, to adventure sports, game viewing, and fishing, to magnificent caverns and culturally significant villages, Mpumalanga offers a visitor a wealth of options, and is certainly worth planning a trip to.

Useful Links
For further information or to make a booking for your trip to Mpumalanga, please refer to:

• Mpumalanga Tourist Attractions
• Things To Do in Mpumalanga
• Mpumalanga Accommodation
• Mpumalanga Hotels

Little Jock

Little Jock (at Jock Safari Lodge in the Kruger National Park), overlooking the banks of the Biyamiti River is situated one kilometer from Main Camp and offers sweeping views over the unspoiled Kruger Park Bushveld. Three luxurious suites offer all the comforts and amenities one can expect from a 5-star private lodge.

Guests can relax in the comfort of the central lounge designed with large bay windows and enjoy both al fresco and indoor dining facilities, while your chef conjures up traditional dishes inspired by the natural surrounds.

Your personal game ranger takes care of all your game drives and bush encounters. Whilst not on game drives you can relax next to the scenic pool soaking up the sun watching the wild animals frequent the surrounding bush.

Little Jock can either be booked as a private safari camp for a small group or family, or for individuals. With only 3 suites this lodge ensures personal service remains a high priority. Guests at Little Jock are encouraged to spoil themselves by making use of the extensive Spa treatments available at Main Camp, a mere 5 minutes away.

Contact: Central Reservations
Tel. +27 (0)41 407 – 1000
Fax. +27 (0)41 407 – 1001

Useful Links:
Jock Safari Lodge
Kruger National Park

Dawsons

Dawsons Game and Trout Lodge in Badplaas, Mpumalanga now offers their guests the chance to experience unique morning and afternoon horseback safaris on the 2,000 ha private estate, all under the expert guidance of highly qualified game rangers.

These 2-hour outrides take place in some of the region’s most scenic grasslands and bushveld, teeming up with herds of plains game, including dazzling zebra. Dawsons can accommodate between 8 and 10 guests on an outride at one time, and it is recommended that guests have horse riding experience due to the level of the activity.

Additional Activities at Dawsons:

Guests have full access to a variety of activities while staying at Dawsons Game and Trout Lodge. These include guided game drives and walks, trout and bass fishing, bird viewing, horse riding, scenic hikes or just simply relax around our pool area and soak up the magnificent sunshine and views.

Bird Watching:
The area hosts a unique combination of bird species such as Knysna Lourie, Malachite Hum bird, Olive Bush-Shrike, Trumpeter Hornbill and many more occasional visitors and seasonal migrants. Spending a few hours in our corner of paradise accompanied by a professional field guide will offer constant excitement and photographic opportunities.

Game viewing:
Early morning and late afternoon guided game drives will thrill you across wide-open grasslands and through dense bushveld. Experience the unique behavioural patterns of our myriad of wild indigenous game species whilst enjoying your favourite sundowner.

Dawsons Game and Trout Lodge
View Photos and Read More

Useful Links
South Africa Adventure
South Africa Lodges
South Africa