Taim-Go-Loer

The first thing to grab my attention, other than the obvious prettiness of our accommodation, is the name of the place we choose to stay just outside of Napier — a little town in the Overberg close enough to Caledon not to feel like a trek-and-a-half for a weekend break.

It's called Taim-go-loer.

I love words, and can't resist playing with this obviously lovingly selected phrase to describe our self-catering venue. Time to go and look, time for a walkabout? It sounds a little like pidgin English. That it has something to do with time standing still is obvious, as no sooner are our bags on the floor of the bedroom than time slows.

Ilze Vos, whose farm it is on which we stay and who also owns and runs the acclaimed Napier farmstall, suggests that it's Gaelic for something to do with time. On closer inspection 'go loer' are loan words from Irish and imply 'lots of', or 'galore'. So it's safe to assume that 'taim-go-loer' is Irishgaelic for 'time aplenty'.

Much later during our stay, over a glass of wine, Ilze will explain just how bad cell phone reception at Taim-go-loer is. “We fortunately didn't have to cut down any trees, but there's now a hole through the thicket of blue gums on the edge of the property that allows us access to a tower up on the hill behind it.”

Rest assured that you will have every excuse not to hook up to your Facebook and email accounts whilst staying on Ilze's farm, giving full credence to the plenty of time analogy. Whilst this is anathema to many, for me it is the saving grace of staying on a farm – a valid excuse for not checking-in with anyone. “Sorry, I'm out of cell phone range” has to be top of my list of requirements when going away on a down-tools break.

There are other elements too that always make time away a pleasure – like whether or not your hostess has provided you with a coffee plunger and quality ground coffee, cotton percale bedding, a down duvet, soft towels (and plenty of them), extra blankets, body lotion and soap in the bathroom, enough cutlery and crockery so that you don't have to wash the four only plates to enable you to eat the next meal, freshly cut flowers and access to a supply of fire wood.

All of these Ilze meets with gracious ease. Her years in the hospitality and food industry, as well as the thirteen spent creating the Napier farmstall, mean that she knows what will make her guests yearn to return.

By now the farm's three ridgebacks have made their way onto the cottage veranda to say hello. Zorba, Zaria, and Luka (or looney tunes as Ilze fondly refers to the littlest and possibly the maddest of the three) are eager to make our aquaintance. And they're well behaved farm dogs whom we welcome into the space that is ours for the weekend.

The wonderful, big living area that is the veranda is the new addition to the beautiful old cottage Ilze inherited with the farm. The cottage might still have authentic appeal and a peach pip entrance hall, but Ilze realised that it desperately needed a bit of TLC, as she puts it, and a lounge/dining area.

Not only did she carefully create a modern, spacious space with concrete sideboards and shelves, but there is also a large fireplace and three generous steps that lead outside, that function as a further stoep if you throw down a cushion or two – a wonderful space to greet the new day. The windows are in fact canvas, similar to those you would find in a tent, that wind up or down weather dependent.

Whilst we are there, summer finds us. We hoist the sails, so to speak, and let the day in. There are bees aplenty around the lavender that lines the walls of the veranda, two donkeys gracefully munch grass all day in the field just beyond the front door, and raise your eyes and the hill above the farm is a tapestry of wheat fields about to be harvested. Aaah, this is the life.

Just then an Orpington cock strutts by. He's huge, the size of a small dog, his honey-coloured plumage jauntily set off by a bright red crown. And he's as proud as punch of his harem of hens, who also wander about foraging for seeds. Their consistent clucks and murmurs add further farm noise to the environment. Later Ilze takes my six-year old to see her chicks that are secreted away with their mothers inside a hen house.

Reaching Napier is a matter of minutes' drive. The small farm is only 15km outside of town (10km on the road, a further 4.5 on a dirt road). Whilst we're tucking into the Black Pan breakfast at Ilze's farmstall, unexpected fairies enter our abode and wash our dishes and set up a new fire ready to light. These little things make me feel incredibly spoilt. The effects are palpable. I begin to unwind, worry less about the small stuff. Find time to stretch out on the couch in the sun and snooze, whilst my son whinges about lack of attention.

A little further up towards the farm gate there is a wonderful dam that, if it were hot enough, we would use as a place to dip our toes. But as it's clear skies overhead, with a bit of a chilly wind, and we're itching to get in a walk, my son and I head out of the gate towards the wheat fields that surround the farm.

Ilze has aready instructed us in the art of walking in the surrounds. You simply pass through any farm gate that hinders your way – we are free to roam. And it's a wonderful feeling. From the right there is the sudden loud honking call of two blue cranes as they take flight, their noise a complete surprise and not the sound I was expecting a blue crane to make. Over the course of the weekend I hear them often. A turkey is probably the closes bird noise with which to compare it, although it isn't doing it justice.

Our weekend is too quickly over. We've explored the main street of Napier thoroughly, we've walked, talked, cooked and slept soundly. The break has been just that, a wonderful time away from it all. Hope we can return soon.

Contact Details

Address: Taim-Go-Loer, Sandy's Glen, Napier, 7270, Western Cape, South Africa
Telephone: +27 (0)28 423‑3440

Useful Links

Napier Attractions
Napier Accommodation
Cape Agulhas Attractions
Things to Do in Napier
Cape Agulhas Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation
Western Cape Hotels

Wildekrans Country House

A recent midweek break found us on the road to the lovely Elgin Valley, touted as an ideal destination for nature lovers and wine enthusiasts, and generally for anyone wanting a break from city life out in the country. The first surprise is its close distance to Cape Town. Under an hours drive from the city makes this a great destination when pressed for time or for those who don't feel like driving for hours to their destination. And once you get there? The views and ambiance will have you believing you drove for hours to get to this little piece of paradise.

So what do you do when you get to Elgin? There is lots ... if you are an ardent gardener, explore the various specialist nurseries, or go late in October when some of the finest gardens in the country go on show during the "Elgin Open Gardens" weekend. Not to worry if you don't have a green thumb as there is still plenty to keep you busy in Elgin. If you enjoy wine explore the Elgin Wine Route, a surprising find as Elgin is predominantly an apple growing region (so you might think a cider route is more appropriate). However, this is an extremely productive route with leanings towards the fruity flavours of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Shiraz. If you are here for a few days you should plan a lazy day of wine tasting accompanied by a delicious lunch at one of the wine estates.

And overnight? We chose to stay at Wildekrans Country House which is tucked behind the Houw Hoek Inn and offers various options — either Bed & Breakfast in one of their suites or, if you prefer to self cater, see if you can book their cottage. It sleeps up to four guests and looked ideal for a family with two kids. We opted for Bed & Breakfast and were warmly welcomed and shown to our suites. The suites were simply lovely! Understated decor with every amenity you could wish for, beautifully decorated and immensely spacious, we slept extremely well in utmost comfort. Big four poster beds with crisp cotton linen, big fluffy pillows ... and nothing but the sound of the country to lull you to sleep!

No stay at Wildekrans would be complete without exploring their award winning gardens. See our Wildrekrans photo-post here. Featured in numerous magazines and part of the well known "Elgin Open Gardens", the gardens at Wildekrans are simply stunning. Although we visited in Autumn which would not be "prime" garden visit time, we found the garden most charming and enjoyed our afternoon walkabout (with the chickens letting us know we were on their turf!) Beautiful sculptures and decorations, a lovely pool area to enjoy, an Olive Grove and meandering stream ... you will love it and might not ever want to leave!

Breakfast was superb. Served out on the patio on a warm mid-Autumn day with fabulous unobtrusive service from the lovely ladies of Wildekrans. A quick stop in their Barn which doubles as an Art Gallery and gift shop and I left armed with a superb bottle of Wildekrans Shiraz and a couple of artsy nik-naks — lovely to arrive home with a few gifts! Later, whilst chatting with the owner, Alison, we were given plenty of tips and advice about what to see in the area and a bit further afield. We also learnt that Wildekrans Country House is a two night stop on the four day slack-packing trail around the Groenlandberg — the "Green Mountain" Trail includes four star farm stays, delicious country food sourced from around the mountain and you will enjoy the views, fauna and flora of the gigantic Overberg. For those unable to take a full four days off work, day walks can be taken from Wildekrans Country House or find out more about the Green Mountain Trail here http://www.greenmountaintrail.co.za/.

Highlights of the Green Mountain Eco Route include local gardens in Elgin Open Gardens weekends, local wine, the Groenlandberg Conservancy, the historical village of Houw Hoek, an art route in Villiersdorp, mountain bike trails, hiking trails, the Bot River Lagoon wetlands, Aasvoël Mountain and Blokkop Peak, and endless fynbos vistas.

Wildekrans Country House is associated with the award-winning Wildekrans Wine Estate in Botrivier. Guests can enjoy these outstanding South African wines at the guest house or travel down the Houw Hoek pass and enjoy them at the Wildekrans Cellar.

And finally when it was time to hit the road again, we left Wildekrans wishing we could have stayed longer ... we will be back!

To book a stay at Wildekrans Country House in Elgin, contact Alison Green, Tel: +27 (0)28 284‑9827 or see Wildekrans Country House for more info and photographs.

Useful Links:

• Elgin Attractions
• Things to Do in Elgin
• Elgin Accommodation
• Western Cape Accommodation

Velddrif & Laaiplek

It isn't only bokkoms that make the town of Velddrif so famous. Enter the West Coast village across the white Carinus bridge that only recently, well historically anyway, replaced the pont across the Berg River and you will also pass hillocks of white, shiny salt.

This is where we get most of our table salt. Any attempt to take photos of the Cerebos pyramid-shaped salt mountains, however, will bring you into contact with the rather surly  security guard, who might, if he doesn't mind the look of you, deign to allow you to turn your car around before you beat a hasty retreat. Cerebos, the other claim to fame in Velddrif, is not for visitors. And you can forget taking any photographs – there is a sign on the gate that forbids it.

The town of Velddrif is large as far as West Coast towns go. Not as big as Vredenburg perhaps, but it is a sizeable town. It is also virtually indistinguishable from Laaiplek, which gets its name from its rather obvious function as a place to park fishing boats and offload the catch of the day. Velddrif and Laaiplek lie at the mouth of the Berg River just as it meets the Atlantic. The area has always been about fishing – particularly snoek, pilchards and harders – and claims the very first fishing factory, opened in 1944.

Today, Velddrif is still about the sea and its bountiful catches. We venture down Bokkom Laan to the heart of the village. This is where the seaside version of biltong is produced, dried and then distributed all over the country. Littered along the edge of the Berg River lie a myriad little fisherman's buildings – one can't even call them houses, they're more like 'stalletjies'  — used to store and dry bokkoms.

The avenue that stretches like a narrow strip alongside a portion of the Berg River is incredibly easy on the eye. My son immediately spies a youngster on the pier, hand fishing. He is fascinated to watch the boy pulling in a catch with only his hands. Dotted here and there are little wooden fishing vessels, more like sail boats, and a couple of boys swim whilst their grandfather stops in the shade on the stoep of Bokkom Visserye to discuss this and that with the owner, a long-haired local, who doesn't quite fit my idea of the place.

It's rather like going back in time. Things slow, all that there is to worry about is the flow of the river, and little fish drying on racks. Guided rides on the river are available down the far end, whilst on the stoep of Ek en Djy, a quirky restaurant, are a couple of shady looking individuals with whom I'm not sure I want to share lunch. By all accounts though, the shop alone is worth a stop.

We're off to explore Laaiplek, the boats lining its harbour enticing – I've already seen the beckoning bright turquoise, red and black fishing vessels against the skyline. En route we pass the Snack Shack and its quaintness – a verandah hung in clobber, the odd scarecrow and a garden filled with pot plants — and our grumbling tummies, necessitate a pit stop.

Its verandah is already buzzing with a meeting of the local Tourism Council, where the Snack Shack's chef, Leon, is ensconsed, already well on their way through item number four on the agenda. The meeting ensues in a mix of English and Afrikaans that is so typical of South Africans, and I feel immediately at home.

The menu, although not extensive, is a good mix of sandwiches, quiches and the odd homemade chicken or lamb pie (they're not allowed to do fish per se as the fish shop next door owns the building) – it's rather like dropping in at your aunt's place and managing to make it in time to share lunch. Today's snoek lasagna, served with a wonderful side salad, is worth writing home about, and our son's chicken mayo toasted sandwich, exceptional – you can actually see the chicken chunks. He's not as impressed however, which has more to do with his having just had a boerewors roll from the local bakery across from the Spar in Laaiplek (if you're after home-baked bread and farm milk, this is where to get it when in Velddrif!) than the sandwich's apparent inability to meet expectations.

Whilst we sample his chicken mayo with appreciative noises, my son disappears into the shop next door. Theresa is the local sempstress – yes they still exist – and her endeavour is part book store, part sewing workshop.

I first stumble in here with a pink crocheted hat I've just picked up off one of the hooks outside. The mirror I use to judge its suitability is inside the changing partition in which hangs a fairytale wedding gown. Through her shop is a constant stream of people, and my son is soon engaged in pushing the sewing machine pedals with his toes – he's immensely pleased when Theresa says how proud of him she is.

Theresa promises to fix my broken Elna next time I'm in town, and Christine, Leon's partner and partner, fixes the bill for the remarkably reasonably priced lunch.

Down on the pier at Laaiplek things are humming. Someone's just landed a huge catch of elephant fish. I hadn't heard of them either, but the fishing boat's owner informed me that we often eat them, they're just called Cape whiting.

Whilst we watch, our eyes wide, as the fishing team throw out a mound of fish that appears incongruously large when compared to the size of the fishing vessel, a group of kids come down to gawp at the squid the fisherman's son has in his hands. We get chatting about the current concern that our seas are over-fished. It is interesting to hear a local fisherman's take on the story.

He describes how climate change has changed weather and subsequently there have been changes in ocean currents and winds – fishermen monitor both of these factors closely as indicators of what type of fish will be biting where. Unpredictable weather patterns mean that fish are no longer appearing in specific places at a given time of year.

A fairly big shark now joins the elephant fish on the quay, to the gasps of standersby. It's unusual for this to happen. We learn that to get a fishing licence, our 'noncoloured' fisherman has a deal with the guys who used to fish for him. They're now part shareholders in the business, and everyone, including his son, stands to make a percentage of the day's catch. They all seem happy with the arrangement.

The fish are loaded into a waiting fridge on wheels from Gordon's Bay, and the crowd disperses. We head back to our sanctuary by the sea, that much the wiser about life in a fishing village.

Useful Links:
Velddrif Attractions
Velddrif Accommodation
Velddrif Bed & Breakfast
Velddrif Self Catering
Cape West Coast Accommodation

Coconut Grove

Eating out these days is expensive and finding a restaurant that offers genuine value for money is no easy task. However, a Sunday evening visit to Coconut Grove at the Liberty Midlands Mall in Pietermaritzburg proved that dining out can still be affordable and enjoyable at the same time.

Upon arrival, a friendly manager greeted me and I was ushered to my seat where my friends were already waiting. A waitress had already taken their drinks orders and not wanting to delay proceedings any further; I promptly requested my usual red grapetiser and began to look through the menu ...

Starters included offerings such as calamari, garlic rolls, mussels, prawns, escargot, mushrooms and chicken and French salad and although the line-up was tempting to say the least we all decided to proceed straight to the main course.

The restaurant’s main menu has, to put it simply, something for everyone. Seafood dishes include the grilled crayfish and prawn combo, the platter with a choice of rice, French fries or vegetables, prawn curry, chicken and prawn curry, large grilled prawns, fried kingklip, grilled sole and southern fried prawns to name but a few.

Coconut Grove

For those who prefer meat to fish, a selection of ribs, grills and steaks are available with the lamb spare ribs being highly recommended. Roast dishes come in the guise of beef, lamb, chicken, chicken peri-peri and southern fried chicken while the combo platter is a house favourite.

South Africans, particularly in this part of the world, love spicy food and Coconut Grove doesn’t disappoint by offering all the usual choice of curried dishes with the curry platter for two (R120), being the most popular. Dedicated non-flesh eaters have the option of a vegetarian lasagne or a tasty helping of breyani while old favourites like fish and chips, chicken a la king and pie, chips and gravy are also available.

For the not so hungry a wide variety of schwarmas, roti rolls and burgers find their way onto the menu while those with a sweet tooth can indulge in a decadent choice of desserts too numerous to mention. I didn’t take very long to make my choice, opting for the fish and chips (R39.95), which included a French salad, cole slaw, and a helping of potato salad.

Coconut Grove

The dish was tasty and the helpings more than generous and one would be hard pressed to find a better deal in any restaurant anywhere. Not being great seafood fans, dedicated meat eaters Tanya and Mary-Anne opted for the steak burger with chips (R35) and steak schwarma with chips (R39.50) respectively.

Both ladies enjoyed their meals although Tanya did remark that her burger was a bit on the spicy side. Full stomachs forced us to pass up on dessert although if we had just an inch of space to spare we could have made room for a serving of ice cream or two.

Coconut Grove is definitely well worth a visit for families, couples or anyone looking to enjoy an affordable and tasty meal in a relaxed and pleasant environment. The staff were friendly and helpful, the menu variety excellent and the food tasty and well presented – a winning combination in anyone’s books.

Contact details:
Telephone: +27 (0)33 345 0154
Fax: +27 (0)33 345 2462
Physical address: Liberty Midlands Mall, Pietermaritzburg, Natal Midlands

Pietermaritzburg Links:
Pietermaritzburg Attractions
Things to Do in Pietermaritzburg
Pietermaritzburg Accommodation
KwaZulu Natal Accommodation

Grabouw for the day

Our boot is full of apples and plums. We're talking big, red, juicy apples. The type that, the minute you get home, having travelled a two-hour round trip to get them in the first place, you wish you'd been smart enough to stock up on three times the quantity.

The Peregrin farmstall is bursting with people, fruit and goodies. It is the second of at least four stalls on the side of the N2 after you leave the pinnacle of Sir Lowry's Pass in a broad sweeping descent behind you. And I can assure you, worth a drive out here simply to sample the wares, see the views and enjoy the Elgin Valley ...

I've had to succumb and my five-year old is munching happily at the back, not on an apple, I'm afraid – although the deal was apple first, treat after – but on the muffin from the bakery that sat amongst other equally delectable offerings perched on a table infront of their (children's) noses at the till. I reassure myself that it is home-baked afterall and probably won't rot his teeth, and I can always insist on another apple after, since he enjoyed the first so immensely, even if the core lies at my feet somewhere.

Photographs — Left: Stone ruin overlooking the valley / Right: On entering Grabouw

The Elgin Valley is the epicentre of the apple producing industry — about 60% of the country's apples are harvested here. There is a huge apple co-operative of roughly 50 fruit farm owners just down the drag from the farmstall to prove it (can't miss it, really — big sign; something about 'two a day' on your left). It's also home to a budding wine industry and there are more than a few pear trees this side of the world too. But it is the romance of the apple trees and the joy of acquiring far bigger, juicier apples than you'll ever get at Pick n Pay that has brought us out here on a Sunday.

We head off from the farmstall to explore Elgin. Well, what there is of it. For it is little more than a railway siding, that we think is still in use, but can't be sure. But the siding is along a road lined with oak or plein trees and there are buildings here of historic importance, I'm sure.

And, of course, Pam Golding is prominent, selling a new 'country estate' on one of the wine and apple farms bang smack behind a selection of what looks like farm workers' houses. The properties for sale are not all that large, even if the views are gorgeous (well, if you overlook the houses right infront of you) and you can look forward to the fertilisers and sprays from the apple fields just next to you. But for some, this will be a little piece of heaven...

Did I mention that the Elgin Valley is surrounded by mountains? There are three mountain passes into the valley, Sir Lowry's Pass being but one of them. Come here at the right time of year (actually any time of year will do but in spring, the annual Elgin Open Gardens is really worth visiting for) and the valley is simply sumptuous.

Photographs — Left: A property at Klipkop / Right: Klipkop Estate

Elgin possibly gets a raw deal in the sense that it is at the start of a journey anywhere. Most people leaving Cape Town will have only just hit the open road, having already endured the laborious N2 through Somerset West. But coming here for the weekend is slowly dawning on those who realise that Grabouw, the nearest little town, is worth more than a cursory glance.

There are two ways to reach Grabouw. Either take a left at the Orchards Farmstall and continue along here until you end up in town. Or, a little further along the N2, take a left at the Peregrine Farmstall and follow signs to Grabouw, taking a left into Oudebrug Road. The latter is a prettier entrance, as you get to pass over the river. And you get to see the church tower in the distance and a few older buildings on this side of the bridge.

The main road through town itself is a little disappointing. There doesn't appear to be much here to warrant a visit. There are certainly no restaurants or trendy shops. There are the usual Friendly Grocer and KFCs, bottle store, petrol station, OK etc. and the local butchery, which is said to have a secret recipe for its boerewors (it was closed when we drove through) but it is actually into the suburbs that you want to head, to explore Klipkop Estate.

Klipkop estate is a little piece of heaven, quite literally. And one of the best kept secrets of Grabouw – it isn't even marked on the map. We stumbled upon it by accident. That's not quite true. I stumbled upon it. My other half had been out here a few weeks previously for the Elgin Open Gardens, one of which happened to have been in Klipkop Estate.

At the edge of Boereboon Street, where it meets Bosbou Avenue, is an unobtrusive stone gateway. To the side of the stone wall is a sign that gives you an inkling as to the nature of the estate (that isn't an estate as it is not behind booms and there is no security). Klipkop has a 2-bag recycling system every Tuesday, facilitated by TWK recycling.

Photographs — Left: The nooks and crannies of Grabouw / Centre: Lower on the main road / Right: Old Mac Daddy

The roads here are tree-lined, there is a predominance of sustainably built and deliberately humble abodes that choose to maintain as much of the original natural surrounds as possible. Where Boereboon meets Celtis there is a beautiful stone ruin and beyond, views over the valley. To own a house here is obviously sought after but kept within closed circles (the odd advert for vacant land paint pictures of tranquility and the importance of family life), properties are fairly expensive, but they are large and most people have huge gardens. We feel as if we've stumbled upon a find.

We venture home this time along Viljoen's Pass between Grabouw and Villiersdorp. It's beautiful. En route we stop briefly at the Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve – it's rugged and on a plateau. But picnics are not really encouraged. It is more for serious hikers, who set off on numerous hikes that include the Palmiet Trail, the Groenlandberg Trail and the Boland Hiking Trail. It is beautiful, remote and unspoilt.

Things you can do around Grabouw
Annual Elgin Open Gardens
Elgin Wine Route
Farmstalls
Elgin Valley Market
Old Mac Daddy (try this accommodation with a difference)
The Houw Hoek Inn – a must for tea

Grabouw Links:
Grabouw Attractions
Elgin Valley Attractions
Things to Do in Elgin Valley
Grabouw Accommodation

Addis in Cape Town

As you have no doubt derived from the rather obvious name of the restaurant, Addis is a bit of Ethiopia bang smack in the middle of Cape Town.

I don't usually do 'theme' restaurants, particularly those aimed at tourists. To be honest, I don't get to eat out at night much at all – funny how that stops when the 'bundle of joy' arrives, and stays stopped until he's left home, although I'm hoping I get out and about before then... another twenty odd years without culture will do my head in. But with mom-in-law down, a night on the town was obligatory, and Long Street was the obvious choice (Long Street is where the night life is, if Camps Bay isn't your thing, which it isn't). Even if Addis is technically just around the corner from Long Street, on Church Street, it has incredible views of Long Street, and blends right on in with the other trendy eateries ...

The other major attraction is that you eat with your hands, and you can order a 100 per cent vegan meal (the vegans amongst you will be pleased to hear). In fact, the menu comes with meat and vegan options. But more on that later.

Addis in Cape is Ethiopian cuisine along the same concept as Addis in Dar, which you'll find at number 35 Ursino, just off Migombani Street in Dar Es Salaam (obviously). It's been touted as a favourite amongst tourists when in Dar, and despite being described as a 'little-known and out of the way restaurant', serves superb food (this is all hear-say, having never been in Dar Es Salaam).

At Addis in Cape you are met at the door by a very black gentleman in pointy black shoes and a black suit, reminiscent of a bouncer. Except that he isn't. Nor is he Ethiopian. I'd hazard a guess and say that he was Nigerian. Along the same theme, our waiter turned out to be from the Congo and spoke with a gorgeously smooth French accent. But was definitely not Ethiopian.

Photographs — Left: The restaurant from Church Street / Right: Art on the walls depicting traditional Ethiopian meals

In fact, the only Ethiopian I managed to see all night was one of the waitresses and the owner, Senait Mekonnen, who slipped in to read her email in the little two-by-two room squashed in next to the unisex loo (I know, because I happened to pass her en route to use the facilities, by that stage more than a little wobbly on my feet – food takes a while to arrive).

And the guy with pointy shoes is rather necessary. There are at least four floors of eating space in this beautiful old Cape Dutch style building complete with polished Oregon floorboards, laid out with a series of low basket tables known as mesobs. Infront of these you sit in low slung wooden chairs that allow for rather inelegant slumping. We followed him up to the very top floor, which was already humming. Considering this was a Tuesday evening, it was doing relatively well. I would imagine that over weekends, the floors are all full.

But we were the only Capetonians. Andy, our waiter, was ecstatic to meet us. We were his first locals, or so he said. The bar area was strewn with traditional carpet umbrellas that hang suspended from the ceiling, the walls adorned with Ethiopian art, and we were quickly to learn that the whole evening comes in a formula that promotes social interaction and introduces one to a whole new style of food and eating.

In Ethiopia there is an eating ritual of breaking injera and sharing food around a common plate. It's a way to share friendship and loyalty. People eat with their fingers, using a small portion of injera to wrap around a mouthful of food. The term wot describes a dipping sauce, which is prepared using any variety of vegetables or meat, whilst berbere is a traditional seasoning made from chilli pepper and other spices. But by the time you've made your way through the menu, you'll get the gist of it.

Photographs — Left: Fringed, embroidered umbrellas decorate the ceiling / Centre: Pretty decor / Right: Hand wash before we eat

Meals come in a communal dish served on a large round pancake (more injera ). All of the meals are Ethiopian and come as part of a set menu with names like Doro Wot (chicken marinated in fresh lime juice), Yebeg Alicha Wot (lamb sautéed and slow cooked with garlic, ginger, onions, turmeric), Misir Wot (split lentils sautéed with onions and garlic with Berbere), Mushroom Wot etc.

We each selected two half dishes and in this way managed to sample four items on the menu. Before these arrived, served together with what looked like a series of crépe bandages but which were actually injera – large, thin pancakes (although they look like pancakes, this is staple food regarded as bread) usually made from a grain called Teff, a miracle grain that is high in iron and isn't available in Cape Town so they were made of buckwheat, sorghum and rice, I think – we washed our hands beneath a flow of warm water brought to our table in gorgeous beaten silver pitchers with accompanying bowl.

The food, when at last it arrived, was gorgeous. Traditionally Ethiopian food is rich in herbs and spices. It's colourful and tastes excellent, which it should, considering that two Ethiopian chefs produce the goods. The accompanying injera is there to use as knife, fork and spoon, which can get a little tricky if one of the dishes is slightly sloppy.

Put it this way, don't take anyone infront of whom you don't want to appear awkward. This said, it can also be a wonderful 'bonding' moment, and the table next to ours appeared to be just this – a group of colleagues out at their Christmas do (it took them until the food arrived before they unwound).

Photographs — Left: The food / Right: Mesob lids

Injera is apparently popular not only in Ethiopia but also Eritrea and Somalia. I loved this form of bread and wish that we ate more in this way. The spices used in our meal are said to come directly from Ethiopia, they're not local derivatives.

The more of you there are at the table, the more food there is to try, and I watched as other larger groups tucked in to an array of different coloured and spiced food. I'd highly recommend their set menu that includes starters, mains, desserts and coffee. And I believe the coffee is an experience all its own – authentic Ethiopian style.

Contact Details:
Telephone: +27 (0)21 424‑5722
Address: 41 Church Street, Cape Town Central, Cape Town
For further information visit http://www.addisincape.co.za/

City Bowl Links:
Cape Town City Bowl Attractions
Things to Do in the City Bowl
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Main Street Grahamstown

Grahamstown is renowned as “the Festival City”, as it is host to the largest arts festival in Africa — the National Arts Festival. Most people visit the town during the festival period, and experience the crazy bustle of thousands of tourists jostling their way down High Street, dodging between the hawkers touting their African wares, and on to the next fantastic show. In-between festival time, Grahamstown is a sleepy town. Grahamstown is also known for its many schools, and Rhodes University, and the town’s population seems to swell during term time when the students return to this quiet town that many students refer to as “the bubble.”

Grahamstown is not just known as the festival city, it is also known as the “city of saints,” partly due to its many churches. However the story goes that it’s got its moniker because in the 19^th centaury some engineers sent away for a vice, and were told by their superiors to buy the vice in Grahamstown. They replied “there is no vice in Grahamstown,” and the legend was born. The centre of the town is dominated by the cathedral of St Michael and St George, which has the tallest steeple in South Africa. The cathedral has beautiful stained glass and is open during the day till about three and is well worth a visit. This is not the only church, there are many little churches dotted around, from the St Andrews Chapel to the Methodists and Presbyterians there are over 140 to choose from.

Photographs — Left: The St Michael and George Cathedral in the centre of town / Right: St Batholemews Church

The town has some of the best preserved Victorian architecture in South Africa, and High Street has many beautifully preserved facades. The Observatory museum is well worth a visit to see the Victorian history of the town. The building houses the Observatory which has a fascinating Victorian Camera Obscura, — be sure to go on a sunny day for a fantastic view of the town – a great way to spy on the town!

There are many stories, battles and events that have taken place in Grahamstown, and if you are lucky enough to stay at no 7 Worcester street, your host Alan Weyer will be happy to take you on a “Spirits of the Past” tour, a fascinating historical journey from the battle of Makana, to the numerous ghosts and haunted spots in the town. No 7 Worcester is rather up market accommodation, but as there is a huge influx of tourists over the National Arts Festival, there are many Bed and Breakfasts and self catering options dotted around the town which range in price.

The town is small and you can easily walk everywhere, as many students do! There is not much in the way of public transport, but the town is generally safe, and many people get by just walking from place to place. There are several places where guests can dine out — try the Yellow House for delicious cocktails and pizza. This is a favorite student hangout, and there is often a fantastic atmosphere. A historic spot for many Rhodes students is the Rat and Parrot, a lovely pub that serves delicious meals, including butternut ravioli which was divine. Dine early before the partying gets underway.

Photographs — Left: View over Grahamstown from the Monument / Right: Main Street Grahamstown

The town may not be big on clubs and shopping malls, but if you are looking for a quiet Eastern Cape getaway, Grahamstown’s warm hospitality and welcoming community are perfect for a stop over on your way to one of the fantastic game reserves in the area. Spend a day delving into the fascinating history of this quiet town and marvel at its many beautiful churches.

Useful Grahamstown Links
Grahamstown Attractions
Things to Do in Grahamstown
Grahamstown Accommodation
Grahamstown Hotels
Eastern Cape Hotels

Paternoster

The first thing that strikes me about the gorgeous little seaside fishing village of Paternoster, is the harmony – there is no 'right' or 'wrong' side of the tracks here. Instead society is lumped into the same handbasket. The average holiday maker encased in huge utility vehicle, here for the weekend, tends to drive with head turned away from the fishermen's cottages that lie cheek by jowl with holiday homes in the village — an attempt to ignore the 'other' side of Paternoster, or craning to see the sea? I'll give them the benefit of the doubt ...

I love that on one side of the road there are cozy, old and derelect fishing cottages, fishermen outside on their bakkies fixing nets and outboard motors, women trading gossip and children over the fences, still in their pyjamas at 10 am, washing on the line. There is even the odd flagrantly red or pink house, contrary to the obvious undertaking by the village to maintain a white walled, thatched roof uniformity.

The locals seem fairly ambivalent. They either ignore the 'other' element entirely, pretend that side of town doesn't exist, or infer indirectly to the level of crime in town — one that is barely perceptible. Others love this way of life. What ever way you feel about it, it doesn't change the fact that Paternoster probably comes close to being the perfect beachside village.

Photographs — Left: Fishermen's boats / Right: Beautiful Paternoster with Gaaitjie in the foreground

The beach is breathtaking, the sea with its enormous boulders and brightly coloured fishing boats inspiring, and the collection of white walled houses, most built in keeping with the original fishermen's cottages, if a tad bigger, are tasteful and inviting. It's quaint, unspoilt, and an invitation to stay a while, if not longer. It's also popular. Understandably.

We follow directions to Hocus Pocus, our home for the next couple of nights. It's on the far west side of Paternoster, where the neighbourhood has a little cove of beach of its own – you need to walk or drive into the main village with its pubs, restaurants and nostalgic little shops, a matter of minutes, to reach the main beach – which has its advantages, particularly if its peace and quiet you are after. We're here ahead of the weekend gathering and the town is relatively quiet.

Hocus Pocus, as its name suggests, is an eclectic, eccentrically yet charmingly decorated little home that is easy to be in. Curtains float effortlessly in the breeze, local artists' art dominates the walls, and the loft bedroom upstairs has gorgeous views over the sea. Our landlady, who lives next door, and whose garden is littered with thing like ballet shoes and giant sunflowers, has left it prepared for us — the odd window open and pretty fairy lights and strategic lamps left on to create an ambiance of welcome.

Photographs — Left: The local shop / Right: Voorstrandt Restaurant

The beach is a stone's throw from here and we wend our way through the paths and roads of this end of Paternoster, grateful that one doesn't have any six foot walls and electric fences to contend with. The beach is practically deserted, except for long pieces of kelp and shells by the dozen. The sound of the water lapping on the shore lulls me into a state of contentment faster than any manmade relaxation on offer. Ah, I do like to be beside the seaside.

The next day brings with it the sun and the clouds largely dissipate. I head out to hunt down a freshly baked loaf of bread, and am in for a pleasant surprise as the local supermarket is more than obliging. They also provide an obviously demanding clientelle with a range of deli type foods, what looks like quality fresh meat, and other unexpected staples. Our just-out-of-the-oven ouma loaf lasts moments as I treat us to French toast.

Whilt on the subject of food, I remember that one of the restaurants is run by Suzi Holtzhausen, and quickly phone Gaaitjie (it's right on the beach, and our landlady has conveniently left a number of local numbers tacked to the fridge) to reserve a table. But they don't serve anything vaguely resembling fish and chips, and we have a four-year old in tow who, naturally, rules the roost. Later I see Suzi with a film crew on the beach at sundown, doing her thing for the camera, so it's probably just as well that we forego our evening of gastronomic delights for another option.

Photographs — Left: Hocus Pocus / West side of Paternoster

We end up at the Voorstrandt Restaurant, right on the beach, instead. Moments before, we pass a fisherman on the beach, his catch on the sand before him as he guts and prepares it, probably on his way to sell it to someone on the road above the beach. You would think this might impede on my son's enthusiasm for fish, but he tucks in with visible gusto, despite the obvious connection between what we've just seen on the sand and the subsequent plate of fish and chips that makes it to the table. Not quite a vegetarian, then.

We spend hours combing the beach for shells, strolling the main beach that goes on forever, and photographing the locals. We explore the other side of Paternoster too. This eastern edge is known as Mosselbank, and it's obviously the more modern and recent part of the village, minus the old fishermen's cottages. I'm not that enamoured. Most people who stay here though can walk from their home along the beach to the Voorstrandt, which has its upside, I suppose.

With every trip there is always a welcome discovery, and this one is the following day as we drive through Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, west of Paternoster. The pretty reserve has a lighthouse as its fulcrum and gorgeous nooks and crannies at the campsite towards the far edge of the reserve. Part way though, is the beach camp – a privately owned series of bedded tents, A-frame huts and camping gear with seafood dinners, for those who want to do camping in style.

Photographs — Left: The beach camp / Views from the beach camp.

We meet Freedom (he is experimenting with the name change), the self-confessed professional beach bum, who runs the show. I take time to snoop as he shows a couple of  people around. The campsite, right on the edge of the water in a next to sublime locale, is well protected from the wind.

Most of the tents and A-frames take two people, but there is one 3-man tent, I note (perfect for us and our four-year old). There are showers, a hand basin, which might be dark and dingy if it weren't for the pretty gas lamp, and a compost loo (possibly the reason why the interested party have just beaten a hasty retreat; it's not for all), which means that the camp's eco footprint – they use gas for their other needs – is probably negligible. My kind of place. This is the kind of place you come and retreat from the world.

Sometime soon.

Photographs — Left: In the village / Pink house in flagrance of 'the rules'.

Paternoster Links:
Paternoster Attractions
Things to Do in Paternoster
Paternoster Guest Houses
Paternoster Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation

Hebron

There is something about travelling that brings with it an element of the mundane. I'm talking about that glazed eyes feeling one begins to emit after an hour or two in the car so that even when faced with the incredible beauty of a pass like the Piekenierskloof, which marks the entrance to the Cederberg and Olifants River Valley (isn't it slightly freaky the way the river flows the wrong way?), and which wends its way down to the town of Citrusdal, you remain slightly impervious.

To call the Piekenierskloof Pass, which links Piketberg with Citrusdal on the N7, stunning is to do it a disservice. In reality it is a series of rather daunting twists and turns that overlook a patchwork quilt of multi-coloured farm fields, beautiful blue mountain ranges in the distance. In days gone by there weren't any wheat fields down  below one, and most of what you see would have been Renosterveld ...

It is the type of pass that makes you glad to be alive and which renews your passion for a country filled with breathtaking moments. It serves as the dividing line between the Swartland and the valley of the Olifants River, and must have been one mission to build.

But our story begins on the crest of the Piekenierskloof Pass. At a place called Hebron. It comes highly recommended. It is well rated amongst those in the know. Which isn't usually enough to promote a stop anywhere, but on this occasion we managed to find our way without any untoward impediment (a major achievement with a four-year old on the back seat) and there was enough peace and goodwill in the car not to prove something of a contagion to those we might meet at the stall.

Photographs — Left: Steve with our Mebos / Right: Hebron's Coffee Shop

It didn't take long with our snooping around the pretty area of the Hebron farm stall, called Tant Dollie after the old stall that was on the farm when they moved here, for Steve to come out to greet us. Steve and his wife, Caro (and their four children), live on Hebron – the farm stall, coffee shop and guesthouse. It's actually a working farm too, and we stand chatting close to some macadamia nut trees, and seriously pretty buildings that make up the farm stall — the coffee shop and something that is in the throws of being built. A foreman sits taking a welcome break in the shade. This, we later learn, will be the new self-catering bungalow with views out over the Piekenierskloof Mountains.

Steve is entertaining. We stopped intent only on sampling the wares of the stall, but we find that we remain far longer, swopping notes with the chef, baker, dad and entrepreneur who has managed to turn his mother-in-law's farm into a wonderful country break at the top of a hill. Steve not only bakes his own bread, he also conjures up sausages, smoked chorizo and salamis, and the farms jams and marmalades from their own fruit. He comes to greet us in his apron – there is a huge vat thing to one side of the coffee shop stoep that testifies to major preserve production — but he says he has yet to use this gargantuan machine and must return it to the neighbour from whom it is borrowed.

A large chalk board on the exterior wall of the coffee shop regrets that it cannot accept credit cards, that it is closed on Sundays and Mondays, but that you are very welcome to Hebron where you can eat breakfast until noon – including homemade granola and yoghurt, homemade waffles, almond and vanilla shortbread, and rooibos and cranberry scones with whipped cream (all at seriously reasonable prices, may I add) – a wonderful combination of sandwiches on exotic breads like sourdough bruschetta and toasted focaccia, salads, one or two lunch dishes that include dishes like soup of the day and smoked snoek croquettes with a green salad grown in the garden, and something extra for kids to enjoy. Pity we've only just had breakfast...

Photographs — Left: The pretty verandah / Right: The inner courtyard

Steve gets to talking about the six guest rooms he has here, hidden around the corner of the coffee shop (which also has a lovely interior perfect for colder days, decorated with a few nooks and crannies filled with wooden tables and chairs) and cuts us a slip from the macadamia nut tree — we're hoping it will grow back in Cape Town; wishful thinking, no doubt.

I take a wander round the back to sneak a look a that the rooms around the pretty verandah, dripping in what looks like young wisteria vines, three of which overlook the Sneeuberg Mountain and Citrusdal valley. The other three rooms share a lovely secluded courtyard, the shade of which is provided by fig trees. And there's a swimming pool out front, complete with deck and loungers. There is more than a suggestion of the other Hebron that nestles on the southern West Bank of Jerusalem here, and I now understand the reason for the name.

One of the rooms is self-catering, and room six, which is detached from the main building, not only features its own free-standing Victorian bath but also makes for a wonderful honeymoon suite; Hebron provides a 'honeymoon service' for the room – think roses, champagne, candles and chocolates.

My son has now taken a serious shine to Steve's daughter, Emily, who has wandered away from her brothers and sister to see what is keeping dad — there are important things for him to do, like keep the peace whilst the boys fight over tadpoles, and swing her upside down.

Photographs — Left: Hebron's farmstall / Right: Inside the coffee shop

It is time to leave. We're on the road to Paternoster, and Steve quickly outlines an alternative and certainly prettier route via Eendekuil and the R365. Just as well as the N7 appears to have a series of road works just past the turn off to Eendekuil — ah, the satisfaction of knowing you have plan B ahead of the game.

But before we pile into the car, Steve nips into the farm stall and brings us a bottle of mebos to sample, on the house. It's our first attempt at this specialty and we later enjoy it thoroughly with bread and cheese.

Hebron Contact & Links:
Hebron Restaurant & Farmstall
Hebron Guesthouse — Hebron, Piekenierskloof, N7 motorway, Citrusdal, Western Cape
Telephone: +27 (0)22 921‑2595 or +27 (0)72 593‑5900 / +27 (0)72 593‑5858
Official website: http://www.hebron.co.za/

Citrusdal Links:
Citrusdal Attractions
Things to Do in Citrusdal
Citrusdal Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation

Clanwilliam Tourist Info

We wander quietly into Clanwilliam on a particularly hot day, our air conditioning turned up full (not great for my green street cred, but what's one to do when it's this hot?). The main street is busy. But then it always seems to be, what with the new and huge Spar to the right of us, and the myriad historical buildings opposite it that make up one of the major charms of the pretty town.

I'm busy rattling off from a brochure about the many attractions in Clanwilliam — great place to be during flower season, the Clanwilliam dam offers a space for water sports, there is hiking (Clanwilliam lies at the feet of the Cederberg range of mountains and their presence adds an extra something to the town), rooibos is farmed here, as is citrus, and there are farms to visit, it is famous for its 'veldskoene' (there is a factory you can visit), outdoor activities such as mountain biking, 4X4 routes, quad biking and horse riding abound, and it's only two hours' drive from Cape Town. Bonus.

There is also a centre on the main road named after Tolla van der Merwe, the television personality best known amongst the Afrikaans speaking community, who was born here and died tragically in a car accident in 2000. It isn't his birth alone though that makes him well loved amongst the town folk, he was also one of the main reasons the town celebrates its annual Cederberg Arts Festival, known as the Leipoldtfees, named after yet another artist (well, he was a doctor and poet) who grew up in Clanwilliam.

Photographs — Left: Tolla se Sentrum / Right: The old goal

Principally we're here to stock up on goods. Great place for it, as the Spar (I'm not usually a fan but this store is an exception) is big, stocked with extraordinary products like wheat free pasta and Melissa's goods, and air conditioned! I, of course, nab the role of shopper and head off for at least 30 minutes of cool respite.

Later I brave the heat that has enveloped the main street, despite its being but October, to stroll amongst some of the seven odd national monuments that make Clanwilliam one of the ten oldest towns in the country (the seventh oldest, if my facts are correct). I wouldn't go as far as to describe the architecture of the Spar as homogenous with the rest of town. In fact it positively jars. But with all convenience comes a price and it definitely adds to the town's appeal for visitors.

On a corner, virtually opposite the imposing but beautiful NG church, at the end of main road, is Clanwilliam's museum known as the 'Ou Tronk' or old prison. The architecture though is rather strange. It has something of the 'great wild west' about it, now that I think about it – perhaps this has something to do with the fact that it was used by the garrison during the Anglo Boer War? It is open, but I cannot bring myself to get as excited over Voortrekker wagons, pioneer artefacts and the history of rooibos tea as I should do and so decide to give it a skip, even if Clanwilliam is the headquarters of the Rooibos Tea Control Board.

Photographs — Left: Not the NG Kerk / Right: Pretty architecture

The tourist information, on the other hand, is pretty comprehensive. It lies just across the street, next door to the NG church built in 1864 (everything was originally 'next door' to the church as the town grew up around it). There is nothing on the history of the town available in document form, but the walls are graced with a number of really interesting stories about the local families that live in Clanwilliam, there is information about rock art tours, where flowers could be found during the annual flower festival, news of a new rooibos cookery book entitled A touch of Rooibos, and I learn that Clanwilliam is Dorp van die Jaar, having won the award late last year.

We could go on an historical walkabout through the town, but I'm just too hot to face it. Besides, I'm looking for that 'something special' that isn't necessarily on the tourist route in Clanwilliam.

We sidle off down Park Road. Part way along we stumble on the Living Landscape Project. Contrary to the way it sounds, it isn't about gardening. It is a community project focused on bringing archaeology to children. In a nutshell, the project funds the training of locals as guides, craftspeople and heritage managers. The aim is to reach school groups, who can come and stay here, to teach them about Time — how fossils, artifacts and ruined structures all point to the passing of time. Those trained in crafts provide goods for the shop that is also situated here.

Photographs — Left: Waka Waka shop / Right: The Clanwilliam Tourist Info office

Next door to the shop is the Time Machine in what the project calls its school hall. It is an interactive game of sorts with various artifacts and fossilised remains housed in glass casings in the walls — a record of the past. In this way one can learn about Andriesgrond – a rock shelter lived in often over the last 10 000 years, like thousands of similar caves in which one can find paintings that teach us about people of those times, and the Olifants River – named after elephants that were very common along its banks; now only paintings survive.

In a similar way, I learn about Ceder Trees, after which the surrounding Cederberg is named. They've existed for 40 million years (a lot longer than we have). Today they barely cling to survival and are restricted to high and isolated stands. Roughly 350 to 500 school children take part in the project every year, with an annual lantern parade through the town's streets.

We leave soon after walking through the Time Machine. I enjoy knowing that something like this exists.

Photographs — Left: Time Machine / Right: Clanwilliam Living Landscape Project

Buildings you might want to visit when in Clanwilliam:

• pretty Anglican church & parsonage
• Leipoldt's House
• The old slave bell
• St John's church – really old graves are here
• the old gaol

Clanwilliam Links:
• Clanwilliam Attractions
• Clanwilliam Accommodation
• Clanwilliam Hotels
• Cederberg Accommodation
• Western Cape Accommodation

Mbotyi, Wild Coast

Whether you’re looking for an adventurous holiday or just a peaceful break from everyday life, Mbotyi River Lodge can do both. In the Eastern Cape on the Wild Coast, the lodge is 26 km from Lusikisiki, on the Mbotyi river mouth. Snuggled between the undulating hills of Pondoland, surrounded by flourishing indigenous forestry, this picturesque valley is the ideal location for anyone looking to experience South Africa’s true beauty.

This popular family resort, in the midst of Pondoland, is renowned for its friendly Pondo people, whose intriguing culture has captured the hearts of many and ensures their return time and time again. Be sure to experience the true culture of the Pondo people and take a walk in the village with a local guide. If you’re feeling adventurous visit a sangoma or have a drink at a shebeen ...

Mbotyi has many rivers and an extensive lagoon estuary, both of which are home to an abundance of birdlife, ranging from fish eagles to king fishers to pelicans and many more. Pack a picnic basket and take a morning stroll and you’re sure to catch a glimpse of these wonderful birds as they fish for their morning meal. Mbotyi also offers butterfly tours in March and April, where a guide will take you to a special spot to witness the spectacular sight of meandering butterflies in their hundreds.

Mbotyi, Wild Coast

For all the water lovers, Mbotyi is a great place to take a relaxing paddle across the serene lagoon. Both canoes and paddles are available for hire at the resort and make for a fun filled day or night adventure. You might even be lucky enough to see the curious sight of the Nguni cattle as they take their bath in the lagoon, so be sure to bring your camera.

Mbotyi has a large number of majestic waterfalls along the coastline, some falling as deep as 100km. You can either hike or take an open Land Rover drive to the site of many spectacular waterfalls. Of particular interest is the well-known Waterfall Bluff which plummets straight down into the Indian Ocean. One can swim beneath the waterfalls or bathe in a forest rock pool. However, for an invigorating swim in the sea, it does not get better that the warm Indian Ocean, just a short walk away. For the less adventurous there is a dazzling pool area perfect for cooling down on those hot summer days in the lodge grounds.

Mbotyi, Wild Coast

Fisherman, bring those rods. Mbotyi is also an ideal fishing spot. The estuary is a great breeding place for a wide number of fish species. Whether casting off the rocky shoreline or into the open estuary, you will not be disappointed. Around June and July, the phenomenon of the yearly sardine run commences attracting sharks, dolphins and whales. Even divers from all around the world come to visit so they can partake in this remarkable underwater experience. Mbotyi has a wide range of advantageous viewing points, perfect to capture this unique event.

There are many hiking trails into the indigenous forest or along the wild coast shoreline. Certain hiking trails take you through the Pondo village where you can meet the local people and enjoy their traditional culture. Mbotyi has something for the experienced, as well as, the inexperienced hiker, varying from a leisurely walk to a more daunting 28 km hike. On top of that, you can also climb down into the gorge to stand under a 110 metre waterfall and swim in the sparkling pool, while listening to the roaring crash of water around you.

Mbotyi, Wild Coast

Mbotyi can also be experienced on horseback or on a mountain bike. You can either bring your own bike or hire one from the lodge.  Whether you want a more challenging ride or an enjoyable meander, the terrain offers you both. There are light trails for beginners as well as the more challenging routes through the forest for the more experienced riders.

Mbotyi is also close to the exceptional Magwa Tea Plantation. This is one of the world’s biggest plantations and is well worth a visit. Trips to the factory can be arranged from the lodge where you are shown how the tea is made and packaged, as well as being given the chance to buy some Magwa Tea. The old-fashioned, yet still working equipment is a sight to behold, as is the beautiful green tea bushes surrounded by giant Eucalyptus trees.

Contact Details for Mbotyi River Lodge:
Telephone: +27 (0)82 674‑1064
Satellite: +27 (0)39 253‑7200

Useful Links:
Mbotyi Attractions
Mbotyi Photographs
Lusikisiki Accommodation
Wild Coast Accommodation
Eastern Cape Accommodation

"I am Gorgeous"

McGregor is a wee village, tucked away in a valley at the foot of the Riviersonderend Mountains. It also happens to rest on a series of ley lines (spiritual earth energy connects here in a big way) that lend the village something the folk who live here term 'magic' (they usually shrug their shoulders and look all starry eyed as they say it, as if it's all a little beyond them). A stay here, it seems, is incomplete without falling in love with the place, or certainly experiencing something other than the ordinary.

Spring in McGregor is something akin to gorgeous... It has just rained as we drive through Gate A at Temenos, a retreat right in the heart of the town, and everything is in bloom including the resident peacock, who, when not honking and calling at the top of his spectacularly eerie voice is strutting his beautiful self, feathers and all, for all to see (well, the female peacocks specifically but we get the full treatment too).

As its name suggests, Temenos is not your average spa promised by those resorts offering 'soothing time out'. This is the real thing — from the wonderful gardens in which to emerse yourself, to the lovingly crafted little nooks and crannies, chapels, zen garden, inner well and other sacred spaces in which to meditate or simply 'be' -  this retreat is better described as an initiation into transformation, and not the kind that leaves you with a clean and healthy skin alone (although naturally this is a byproduct of a lot of sleep, rest, meditation and reflection without a five-year old in tow).

Photographs — Left: Twilight in the gardens at Temenos / Centre: The waterways at Temenos / Right: Temore at Temenos

McGregor is only 150 kilometres east of Cape Town, the other side of a series of mountains from Greyton (there is a hike that connects the two) and regarded as part of the Breede River municipality – one crosses the Breede River just before reaching the village. That and numerous vineyards, for McGregor is well known for its small but wonderful wine route.

The village is historical and often described as 'lost in time', although this is not quite true given today's hustle and bustle and the obvious activity enjoyed by its residents. It does have one of the highest counts of historically relevant buildings, many of them former 'nagmaal' houses – farmers used to have weekend houses in villages so that they could attend church — most of which line the main road through the village, and many of which have been lovingly restored into shops, guest houses and homes. Aesthetically, as a result, it is more than a little charming.

It is also really close to the town of Robertson, and most of the locals shop at Robertson's Pick n Pay, there being only a couple of local supermarkets in McGregor that supply but the bare essentials, and the health shop known as Jacob's Larder on the main road where you can stock up on organic elements, particularly dry goods, beauty products and things like honey (make sure you leave enough time to have one of their smoothies). This health hub is also cleverly the local wi-fi station, and many  McGregor locals hang out here to catch up on email.

Photographs — The train, an example of Nagmaal House / The NG Church in McGregor

Perhaps the best part about McGregor is that the road passing through goes nowhere. Just 16 kilometres outside of town it peters out completely as if whoever designed it absentmindedly stumbled from the path and went on to other things. It was supposed to link McGregor to Greyton, and subsequently Cape Town. But this lack of connection serves to keep the town's streets quiet and traffic free, despite their obvious width.

I spend a couple of days effortlessly merging with nature in Temenos' gardens, living like a hermit amidst doves, ducks, beautiful words (their library will keep you busy for weeks it is so well stocked and freely available to all, 24 hours a day, should you be a suffering insomniac), and time registered only by the monolithic NG Church — in the middle of McGregor and thus not far from the oasis that is Temenos – that strikes on the hour and half hour. But even this is soon coloured by the sanguineness of the sanctuary and no longer intrudes.

I do a walking meditation in the spiral garden that links five great spiritual traditions, honouring each with its own shrine, I sit by the side of the indoor well built on a natural spring and one of the sites of the twice daily silent meditations offered by the retreat, I read near the sculpture of Theresa of Avilla and pass by the Angel for Lost Children on my way to Temore, a really little (just space for two) six-sided domed sacred space that is an explosion of blue light and stained glass windows. The beauty of it all cannot help but envelop you in another sphere completely.

Photographs — Left: "honour the silence" at Temenos / The little chapel at Temenos

After a couple of days I slowly surface wondering how the village has managed to remain relatively devoid of the 'second-home' syndrome suffered by so many other similar little villages that leave them bereft except on weekends and holidays.

It is true, I discover, after chatting to Chris at the relatively newly opened Chas Everitt offices, that Capetonians and others have been buying, but not so much that the price of land is now off the radar screen and certainly not enough to dislodge the number of long-term residents, many of whom have relocated here but who love to remain in the village all week long. Just as well I left my cheque book at home, or we might already own a piece of land...

Sally, who is taking over at Jacob's Larder, upon hearing that we are on the search for a salad (the only restaurant at which we can eat that evening serves just about only meat on the menu, including Kangaroo — most restaurants remain closed until Wednesday evening when things obviously begin warming up) returns to her vegetable patch to rustle up one of the most gorgeous green salads we've ever eaten, and hand-delivers it to us at Temenos on a little wooden tray, together with some rice and a dressing for the greens.

Photographs — Left: Jacobs Larder health shop / Right: Late afternoon in McGregor

I leave McGregor with my faith in neighbourliness and human nature firmly restored. With so much to look forward to, a second visit is most definitely on the cards.

What to do in McGregor

• sip wine at at least 11 different estates on the McGregor wine route
• visit Rhebokskraal Estate and olive groves – rumour has it you can pick your own
• visit the McGregor Alternative Technology Centre (MAT) just down Church St
• visit the gardens of Temenos – they allow visitors to stroll through
• visit the Krans Nature Reserve or the Vrolijkheid Nature Reserve, between Robertson and McGregor
• walk the Boesmanskloof Trail to Greyton
• visit Mill Street Potters

McGregor Links:
McGregor Attractions
Things to Do in McGregor
McGregor Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation

Rustenburg

Rustenburg does not live up to its name. Meaning “place of rest” this once sleepy little town started out as a small farming community producing citrus and Virginia tobacco, but now it is known as the Platinum City due to its extensive mining. A hub of activity and only a ninety minute drive from both Johannesburg and Pretoria it is perfect for day trips or a weekend getaway.

Rustenburg has a fine balance between history, arts, culture and nature making it a place that everyone can enjoy. Its history is closely linked to the Vorrtrekkers who founded the town in 1851. They started to settle in the area and named it Rustenburg after they defeated  Mzilikazi and his tribe ...

The battles did not stop there and in 1899 the Anglo-Boer war took place in the surrounding area where the two sides clashed for months. Famous battlefields, memorial graves and wrecked forts are scattered throughout the area and make for great day visits. If this interests you, be sure to check out the Rustenberg Museum which has exhibits depicting local history and archaeology. Rich in iron and stone age sites Rustenburg is also an archaeologists dream.

Rustenburg

Not as bloody, but just as historical are the many churches in Rustenberg. Of special interest is the Anglican Church, a  national monument which was originally built in 1871; the Historical Lutheran Church in Kroondal which was built in 1896 is also a national monument and the Dutch Reformed Church which was started in 1898 but only completed in 1903 after the Anglo-Boer War. One may get the impression that Rustenburg’s only history comes from the white Voortrekkers, but it is also home to the indigenous Bafokeng tribes. Bafokeng means “people of the dew” and they settled in and around Rustenburg over 200 years ago.

Rustenburg is home to the beautiful Magaliesberg Mountain Range as well as many nature parks in and around the area. Right outside Rustenburg is the Pilanesberg National Park. Set in the Pilanesberg Mountain Range in a vast crater of an extinct volcano, it is a unique geological feature and for this reason alone is worth visiting. On top of that, it is the 4^th largest  National Park in South Africa and home to the Big 5. On offer are exceptional game viewing opportunities, exciting overnight camps, strenuous walking trails and enthralling hunting trips.

Mziki Safari Lodge

The Kgaswane Mountain Reserve (Rustenburg Nature Reserve) is another option, which offers hiking trails in the Magaliesberg. With its profuse bird life, flora and fauna, it is easy to lose yourself in the beauty of the mountain. There are many different hiking trails, each offering a unique experience. For those who have a bit more stamina there is the Baviaanskrans Route which is 19.5km and includes the Waterfall View and the Garden of Remembrance and the Summit Route which is 25.3km and includes natural pools where you can swim.

For the less fit there is the Vlei Ramble which is only 2km and leads towards a viewing hut on the vlei where one can birdwatch. Of course there is much more on offer in the Rustenburg Nature Reserve than hiking. The Reserve is also home to over 800 antelope such as klipspringer, grey duiker, kudu and oribi. Leopards, caracal, aardwolf and black-backed jackal also dwell in the area as well as over 320 bird species, including cape vultures and martial and black eagles.

Kgaswane Reserve

If this is all a bit rustic for you, Sun City is only a few kilometers outside of Rustenburg. This luxurious African resort has a casino, a spa, a world renowned gold course and water parks to suit every age group. Lavish and pristine the resort lives up to its tagline as being “Africa’s Kingdom of Pleasure” and you won’t find anyone who will disagree.

Rustenburg Links:
Rustenburg Attractions
Things to Do in Rustenburg
Rustenburg Guest Houses
Rustenburg Accommodation
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Citrusdal Tourism

Pretty Citrusdal is hot. And it is the height of orange season, so the air is rent with the pungence of really sweet citrus flowers – no guesses about where the town's name originated as it's surrounded by citrus farms. The little country village is popular with Capetonians, who head out here at any time of the year for weekends not least because it lies right in the heart of the Cederberg Wilderness on the banks of the Olifants River, but also because it takes but a couple of hours to drive here.

Petrus Smith, who has taken on the Rasta name of Naphtal, which I think means 'green', wears his hair in an astounding hat. He is quiet, unassuming but eager to tell me about his studies in business that allowed him to take on his position during the holidays at the local tourism office ...

He shakes his towering head when I ask him for a brochure about the local history of Citrusdal. Everything here is geared towards activities and where to stay. But he tells me about the Sandveldhuisie just up the road, and about the Old Village on Modderfontein farm, both of which sound worth a visit.

Back in the car, my better half and four-year old have been quietly sweltering whilst I've been swopping gossip with Naphtal. They're a little anxious to get going so that they car can cool, understandably. And the Sandveldhuisie, right next to the town's museum in Church Street, is just the ticket.

Photographs — Left: Sandveldhuisie / Right: Jolanda and her Mother's going away dress

I chat to Jolanda, who tells me that despite looking as if it's been here for centuries, the Sandveldhuisie is a rendition of old architecture of the valley and is built to look like the old houses originally here in the Sandveld – the area known best for growing potatoes, she assures me, dragging out a bag of potatoes from her kitchen to show me the Sandveld logo. She is also brewing some kind of tea and has just made toasted sandwiches for a couple of locals who already know where to pick up a good breakfast.

Jolanda hasn't been running the Sandveldhuisie for long. The former manager now runs the Farmers' Market that meets right outside the Sandveldhuisie every Saturday morning selling organic vegetables and other local farmers' products. Jolanda, who has a very distinctive style of her own, has dressed up the shop's interior with some wonderful décor – it will definitely appeal to visitors, filled as it is with a display of local crafts and foods, intermingled with her own collection of antique clothes (her mother's going away dress hangs proudly near the cash register) and a few home-made roses and hats.

In the front room next door (it's a long house, so every room is 'next door') there is a fire place, infront of which stand a couple of benches and tables, ideal for teas and breakfasts, and a black board advertising tea and 'roosterbrood'. Num. There are other tables and chairs on the verandah outside, and Jolanda's two chickens, who accompany her to work every day, are hiding under a bush outside. I buy a couple of roses to pin on my blouses – I've been looking for these for a while and I listen as Jolanda tells me how she loves creating things out of material. Indeed, the chair alongside is covered with the jacket of her mother's dress. It looks amazing.

Photographs — Left: Restaurant and pub at The Old Village / Right: Inside the pub at The Old Village

Modderfontein farm is where the Old Village is located. It sits perched on the edge of town, its restaurant, pub and The Old Village guest houses now open for business. I happen upon Michael Stekhoven, the owner of the farm, chatting to Keith Blake who runs the restaurant, and make the unforgiveable social blunder of assuming they are brothers (well, they do look alike). 'The only thing we have in common', laughs Michael, 'is our age'.

Michael acquired Modderfontein in 2001 and began work restoring the historical buildings of the farm, some of which have been here since 1757. The main farm house was badly damaged in a fire and the work has been painstaking. The farm has also been converted to organic growing and continues as a working farm producing citrus and rooibos. What was once the old post office and trading store — originally the main road used to pass through here — are now a country restaurant and gorgeous Victorian-style pub.

The restaurant's chef is Nico Pretorius of Le Quartier Francais fame and his mains on the day we pass through include a wild mushroom and Gruyere cheese risotto, roasted duck leg with crushed potato, pear and almond, and a pan-fried angelfish with roasted fennel and pickled lemon. Dessert almost had me take a seat just to sample the dark chocolate mousse with poached navels and honey biscuit. There is also a kiddies' menu available.

Photographs — Left: Restaurant on the main drag / Right: Graveyard at the old village

Four of the buildings on the beautiful farm are now luxury self-catering cottages but what really caught my attention was Marissa's suggestion that I head down to the toilets as this used to be the mortuary on the farm. It's cold down there, and some of the original wall still remains. There is also a ghost, Marissa who manages the restaurant, assures me, although she hasn't seen it. Others have recounted a presence.

We stay out of town in a beautiful orchard filled with oranges. Boschkloof farm and De Oude Boord cottage are simply heavenly.  Tessa the farm's fox terrior, makes herself at home immediately. It is like she has always been a part of our family, and she accompanies us on a hike around the farm. Apart from a most unfortunate incident with a burst toilet pipe, our stay here is relaxed, peaceful and thoroughly enjoyable.

Wonderful how mastery of the Piekernierskloof Pass now allows us to enter the Olifants River Valley, to experience the town of Citrusdal. Without the pass we would be confined to remaining on this side of the Cederberg.

Photographs — Left: Boschkloof Farm Cottage / Right: Tourism Info Centre and Uitspan Coffee Shop

Citrusdal Links:
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Things to Do in Citrusdal
Citrusdal Accommodation
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Loeriesfontein Windmills

'Just what is so important that it warrants a drive through to Louriesfontein?' my other half comments dubiously whilst thumbing through his recent acquisition — a book brimming over with the plant types we can hope to see around Nieuwoudtville – millions of them. My windmills cannot compete, or can they?

'A windmill museum', I inform him, with as much 'ta da' as I can muster. I've seen photographs of the array of eccentrically stacked windmills in the yard of a church in Louriesfontein, and I want to go – think of the photo moments. Besides which, it isn't that far from our accommodation. We tumble into the car and set off in a north easterly direction for roughly 60 km ...

A friend of mine broke down on the road between Nieuwoudtville and Loeriesfontein. That was three weeks ago. Her car is still in the one and only garage awaiting a part. She hitched back from Loeriesfontein, getting a lift with a local farmer from whom she learned all about fat-tailed sheep, probably a lot more than she wanted to know, but she relates the story as one of the most fun things that has ever happened to her.

Loeriesfontein is small. It is also off the beaten track on the R355 that branches off the R27 into the Northern Cape. It lies on the southern edge of what was known as Boesmanland, on a hill. Its main claim to fame is the Windmill Museum (there are only two in the whole wide world, honest) and the flowers, and it gets visitors mainly because of its proximity to Nieuwoudtville – there is a sign for the Windmill Museum (more commonly known as the Windpomp museum) on the edge of town — Nieuwoudtville, that is.

Photographs — Louriesfontein Windmill Museum

Loeriesfontein grew around a general dealership set up here in 1894 by a man named Frederick Turner, a bible pusher who retired from selling bibles to settle down and provide the locals, mostly farmers, with supplies. The local museum, named after Frederick, lies in the grounds of the local Baptist Church (you have to ring the bell for someone to show you around, and on a Sunday you might have to forego this pleasure entirely) it shares with a whole host of windpomps – of every hue, shape and description.

There are windmills called Gearing Selfoiling, Hassy, Worths, Beatty Pumper, Dandy, Fairbanks Morse, Star Zephyr, Conquest, Leers and others (whoever names windmills has a sense of humour,). They stand, all 27 of them apparently, in the grounds of the church against the blue of the sky – a favourite venue with photographers who make it here, each carefully painted with some kind of silver stain to protect it from the elements. This makes them look oddly new.

They stand eerily turning in the wind, each gasping and groaning its own particular grind, as its blades revolve, a chorus of rasping and clangs as they spiral slowly – a windy day must be pretty deafening. A sign slung at the bottom of the Fred Turner Museum board indicates that refreshments are sold in the shelter or 'skerm'. But, being a Sunday, no-one is around to help us and my idea of a mug of coffee on a stoep sadly not met.

Photographs — Left: Fred Turner Museum sign / Right: and more Windmills ...

There is a barn of sorts though that probably qualifies as the Fred Turner Museum. Inside there are a series of displays depicting the life of the 'trek farmers' of Namaqualand. It isn't an old barn but the old school in which the various wagons, tents, 'kook skerms' and other cultural artefacts are housed – over 1000 items are on display and it is very interesting if you feel like taking the time to read some of the newspaper articles.

We stop to refuel at the only petrol station in Loeriesfontein (there is also only one ATM in town). The petrol attendant is rumoured to have an office full of pot plants, but I don't get out to verify this as we're already engrossed in deciding how best to get to Calvinia from here. Loeriesfontein seems stuck in some sort of time warp, somewhere in the 1960s but the beautiful NG church just outside of town, quiver trees on either side of the doorway, is pretty, and the windmill museum definitely worth the ride here.

Said petrol pump attendant, after dubiously noting our sedan, says not to drive the dirt road that connects Loeriesfontein with Calvinia. Instead we drive back to Nieuwoudtville and turn onto the R27 in an easterly direction.

Calvinia is a happening town. It also has a really big post box. Set on the right as you enter the town it stands six feet high and was originally a water tower. You can, believe it or not, post letters here and your post will receive a special postmark. It is on Hoop Street, which functions as the town's introduction and has a couple of beautiful old buildings and a restaurant or two. We stop off at the Hantam Huis because it looks so inviting and we're coming to hungry.

Photographs — Left: Calvinia's post box / Right: Hantam Huis

Built in 1854 this gorgeous little T-shaped building is the oldest authentic house in the town and took more than 10 years to restore. It is a national moment and there is a black board outside advertising waterblommetjie bredie and the door is open, people are chatting inside. But they're only serving their paying overnight guests, and won't entertain the idea of feeding us their gorgeous bredie before their diners arrive. Oh well, perhaps it is because I spoke English and not Afrikaans (must learn to praat die taal better!).

Diagonally across from Hantam Huis is the ubiquitous NG church – every town has one — and I snap a couple of pics of this, and the town's butchery. The Calvinia Hotel too exudes character, even if it is now an Iote due to various letters having seen to much sun and time, and is for hire.

Calvinia lies at the foot of the dolerite-topped Hantam Mountains and on the edge of the Oorlogskloof River. Water Street is beautiful. It runs parallel to Hoop Street, crosses the river and is lined with beautifully restored Victorian houses, most of them now guest houses, and a testimony to the large Jewish community that once lived in the town (actor and author Antony Sher descends from here, even if he was born in Middlepost).

Photographs — Left: A house on Hoop Straat /Right: Die Dorp Huis on Water Straat

I read somewhere that Calvinia functions as the 'inkopiemekka' (shopping mecca) of the area and that outlying farmers come here to shop. We test this hypothesis at the local Spar, which is really well equipped, considering. They even have local biltong, if you ask them. We stop to buy a couple of things to stave off our hunger, having decided to dine again under the stars on the farm, rather than find a restaurant to meet our needs. But Calvinia, we agree, is worth a longer visit, sometime.

Useful Links:
Hantam Karoo
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Northern Cape Accommodation
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Nieuwoudtville

The road to Nieuwoudtville is filled with unexpected surprises. For one, it rests on a plateau – sort of – called the Bokkeveld Plateau. You leave Vanrhynsdorp via the R27, which, after heading due north in a very straight line through the type of vegetation I would have described as the true Karoo (it is the Hantam Karoo), takes one up Vanrhyns Pass.

Take the pass and its myriad hair pin bends faster than 70 kilometres an hour at your peril. We were lucky that there was no mist or rain when we ascended, but on days when there is little visibility, I can imagine that Vanrhyns could be pretty hairy. Particularly on the down hill, behind a truck – there are periodic signposts depicting a car upended on the rear end of a truck, just so that you don't get any clever ideas about sending it round the corners ...

One climbs quickly to 800 metres above sea level and, just as fast, you enter another climate entirely. The top of the pass was cold. Freezing infact. And the odd little erica that still managed to remain in flower looked a little out of place at the top of the pass.

You don't have to drive this route to reach the historical little town. You can take the circular R364 via Calvina from Clanwilliam, but you'll need an offroad vehicle to achieve this – our sedan was not the car of choice, obviously. I have it on authority that it is worth the drive as not only do you have the road largely to yourself, but the possibility of sighting wild life and birds is that much greater.

Nieuwoudtville and its surrounds are where no fewer than five very different geological forms converge, making for an enormous amount of diversity. A remarkable man called JPH Acocks, who traipsed around South Africa defining our vegetation and who published a monumental work on the veld types in 1952, defined 88 different types of vegetation.

Photographs — Left: Scenes from Nieuwoudtville / Right: Stone church

Nieuwoudtville is apparently the only place in the country where 9 of Acock's 88 veld types can be seen within a 100 km radius. For this reason let no one convince you that it is only flower season that reveals the beauty of the area. At any time of the year, anything from succulents to fynbos are visible.

I had no idea, until I began investigating where best to see the wild flowers of the West Coast, that Nieuwoudtville even existed, nevermind how beautiful it is. We missed the flowers by a long shot (we were about a month late) but school holidays and work commitments dictated we visit the Northern Cape in late September, so we had to content ourselves with having the place to ourselves, rather than joining the queues to see the flowers (those in the know talk about geophytes, or bulbous plants, on the Bokkeveld Plateau – 1 350 species of which occur on the plateau and 22 grow only in and around Nieuwoudtville).

By all accounts, this year's flower season was not as prolific as it can be – not enough periodic winter rain (it is dry here), even though the Hantam has never had a failed flower season, some of them are a lot shorter than others.

Photographs — Left: Blooms at the ckhurch / Right: Scenes from Nieuwoudtville

But there is a lot else to do in this part of the world when the flowers are not out, despite its reputation as the bulb capital of the world – Nieuwoudtville boasts the highest speciation of bulbs in the world. Besides, there is the bulb nursery in Nieuwoudtville run by the local community... but more about that in another story.

Entering Nieuwoudtville's main street is breathtaking — quaint, wee, and lined with sandstone buildings. If it were even vaguely close to Cape Town it would have been converted into a mini–Franschhoek by now, its streets lined with award-winning restaurants. Left to its own devices this far from a major city, not even the cute little coffee and art shop on the edge of town is open when tourists aren't here – certainly the Monday and Tuesday we were there not even a curtain twitched.

Early records reveal that the first Dutch settlers arrived at Nieuwoudtville as early as 1725. Any record of this is not officially available, as the town only came into being when the Dutch Reformed Church bought land from the Nieuwoudt brothers on which to build a church in 1885. Today the beautiful Gothic-style church that is also a national monument  is the heart of the town and the hall serves as the Information Centre.

Photographs — Left: Scenes from Nieuwoudtville / Right: The waterfall

The morning we arrive to collect what I hope will be a wealth of information, the woman on duty is so obviously absorbed in Facebook or a very important something or other on her computer that she fails to bother to tell me that the church garden, a couple of yards away, is still riddled with wild flowers. Instead she thrusts at me a carefully hand-written list of where we might find flowers and makes it very clear that our very short convergence is over.

Town and its surrounding farms are, when there is a good flower season, overflowing with an abundance of  bulbs – the bulbs are the important part because it is these that produce the flowers. Accounts in our landlady's carefully collected story file about Nieuwoudtville's flower season speak of the sheer extent of the wild flowers and the carpets of blooms that result. Dang, wish we hadn't missed them.

Just outside of town is a welcome surprise. We've been told to visit the waterfall — it is a 'must do' on the itinerary. We arrive at the little sandstone wall and follow the signs, which deliver us to a stream with a few slowly flowing rapids. I mutter darkly about people's definitions of waterfalls, when my four-year old gives a shout from up ahead where suddenly, the world drops out from beneath the gently flowing river and a cavernous gorge results, a torrent of water descending from a hole it has carved for itself over time.

It is incredible. I keep very firm hold of my son as viewing points are available on the ridge to the east of the falls and it is precarious to say the least.

Photographs — Left: Scenes from Nieuwoudtville / Right: Coffee art shop

Why visit Nieuwoudtville:

• incredible flower display during spring
• wide open spaces, peace and quiet
• rural hospitality at its best
• nearby rooibos plantations
• the local waterfall
• the local community's bulb nursery on the edge of town (follow signs and where there aren't signs, your nose)
• National Botanical Garden
• Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve
• the quiver tree forest
• Loeriesfontein's Windpomp museum
• Calvinia's enormous post box and pretty accommodation options

Be warned:

• it gets terribly hot during summer
• during the flower season book your accommodation in the Northern Cape way in advance (aside from the Van Zijl's, who appear to own most of town, you can also consult http://www.nieuwoudtville.com/)
• there is virtually nowhere to shop in Nieuwoudtville, head to Calvinia or stock up in Clanwilliam

Useful Links:
Hantam Karoo
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Northern Cape Accommodation
South Africa Accommodation

Vanrhynsdorp discovered

Vanrhynsdorp, in the heart of the Nama Karoo, might appear small, but for a Sunday the place is buzzing. Even the tourist information is open and Shaun is very quick to thrust a town map in my hand, from which I quickly ascertain that there are seven buildings of historical note that include the Kokerboom succulent nursery on Voortrekker Road, that is closed.

Bad luck really, as we want to visit it. No problem. Because we have also worked out that travelling along the dirt R364 from Nieuwoudtville, to which we are making our way, back to Clanwilliam is far from a sane idea in a sedan, and that we will more than likely make our way back again on Monday via Vanrhynsdorp. So, the chance to ogle succulents is still high on the list of priorities. Particularly as we've very much missed the very short flower season that places Vanrhynsdorp on the map every year and is the main reason people visit here.

This part of the world is known as the Knersvlakte and it is where a third of the world's succulents live, some of them, only here. The area at first appears to be little more than a  rather dry, slightly hilly plain, bounded by Vanrhynsdorp in the south and Bitterfontein in the north, whilst the Bokkeveld Mountains are a haze in the east.

Don't let looks deceive. Dry it is. But after the rains, flowers spring. Sometimes they're only in evidence for five days at a time and open for little more than five hours a day, but the region is famous for these blooms and it is what draws countless people here around August.

The Old Gaol, right next door to the tourist information office, is pretty. One of its doors is standing ajar and I take a moment to see that the courtyard is also used for Anna se lapverf and other business. Further probing reveals that this inner sanctum probably has a coffee shop/restaurant that is also not open and that the building dates back to 1895.

Photographs — Left: Shan at the Tourist Information Centre / Centre: Talk of the Town / Right: Doorway to the old goal

Vanrhynsdorp has a lovely feel about it. It's small but there are pretty houses, a few cute shops, and a B&B called Talk of the Town where you are invited to 'lekker lê' that seems also to function as the town's bakery, or at least the smell out of the back of the lavender building in Olive street, just down from the Latsky Radio Museum where you can apparently view a fascinating collection of vintage radios, seems to suggest so. I watch as a bakery van reverses in and begins loading bread. He delivers throughout town, he assures me.

The front of the beautiful Victorian house that is Talk of the Town, however, reveals that it no longer functions as a coffee shop. We aren't the only ones disappointed by this. A mother and her daughter (my son goes into freeze mode as he stares at her – girls seem to have this effect. He is only four) also arrive to discover that tea and coffee are no longer available. But no amount of mumbling on the back stoep appears to amend the matter.

Skoorsteenjtie Tuisbedryf, just up the road however, sells mosbrood, even if the woman running the shop barely glances up from her obviously enthralling telephone conversation as we pass her a couple of notes for our wares. So much for little town hospitality.

Photographs — Left: Latsky Radio Museum / Right: A local business

We tumble out of the shop only to meet Tannie Hettie, who immediately makes me reassess my take on small town goodwill, just outside the Trutro 1751 Politstatie. This beautiful old building dates back to 1751 and is actully called the Troe-Troe Zending Hetgesticht (Vanrhynsdorp was originially known as Trutro). It is the oldest remaining building in the districts of Vanrhynsdorp, Clanwilliam, Calvinia, Namaqualand and Vredendal and has served as an inn, a public school, a church, a court house and as the headquarters for Jan Smuts.

Tannie Hettie, all 84 years of her, stands in the middle of the road, content to share her memories of the days when she and her family were 'trek farmers' of Namaqualand. I am amazed. I had no idea that white Afrikaans farmers lived around here as nomads, following their livestock in a trek wagon, living in tents and cooking in a 'skerm' they built in each of the places they stayed out of local gorse and bush. She was based in and around Pofadder in those days and went to school in Nieuwoudtville, where we're headed.

This morning she is on her way to the local supermarket to pick up some bread. She describes to us how she used to make mosbrood – she no longer bakes as her hands cannot knead any longer — and why it is called such. It is a traditional Cape Malay food too. They call it 'grape bread', whilst the Afrikaans call it 'mosbolletjies'. It is the same principle – roll little balls of dough, reminiscent of grapes, and leave them to rise into a sweet bread that includes aniseed. Serve with moer koffie.

Photographs — Left: Die Skoorsteentjie / Right: The Leather Shop

The Mission of the Little Flower sits just outside of town. It is as forlorn as the broken windmill that stands outside, and, whilst we take a couple of photos, there isn't much reason to stay. The mission station is one of several – the others are in places like Wupperthal, Ebenhaezer, Leliefontein and Steinkopf.

On our way out of town we pass a beautiful old Victorian homestead that is also a leather shop. A leather crafter lives in the village and not only offers hand crafted leather tools but also gives individual and group training at his workshop.

A couple more quaint Victorian style shops reveal themselves to us on Voortrekker Road on our way out of town, and then Vanrhynsdorp is behind us, Nieuwoudtville ahead.

Useful Links:
Vanrhynsdorp Attractions
Olifants River Valley
Olifants River Valley Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation

Olifants River Valley

The most amazing surprise for me was seeing the expanse of grapevines along the banks of the Olifants River. These begin just outside Clanwilliam and continue for miles like a great, green swathe on either side of the river.

I had read about the Olifants River Valley as a wine-producing area. I was prepared, in a way, but the actual evidence is nonetheless unexpected. Huge diaducts guide water to various parts of the wine  farms that grace the banks of the river and palm trees are aplenty. I think it is the sheer audacity at this amount of green in an area that is predominanty dry and arid that gets me.

It is something to do with leaving the Swartland behind, as you come out of Piekenierskloof Pass and enter the Olifants River Valley and the rather weird way that the Olifants River flows in the opposite direction than one would expect – not down towards Cape Town but northwards with the Cedarberg and then east where it has its estuary at Papendorp that leaves me stunned.

We had just left behind the rather heady smell of citrus trees in bloom, heavily hung with oranges, satsumas, clementines, lemons and grapefruits, and the torridly hot and quaint streets of Clanwilliam and its thoroughly air-conditioned and enormous Spar, when bam — it's suddenly vineyard upon vineyard and you've entered a wine region in a most un-wine-region like valley — dry and sandy with rocky outcrops and temperatures that way surpass 35º during the day and drop to freezing at night.

Photographs — Left: Lutzville / Right: Olifants River Valley Wine Route

Despite this the Olifants River Valley (yes, herds of elephant were last seen in the area in the early 1800s) gives rise to the West Coast Wine Route, has 16 wineries and three of the largest wine cellars in the country — Klawer Wine Cellars, Lutzville Vineyards and Namaqua Wines. This is wine production on a large scale, not quaint little cellars as we're used to closer to Cape Town.

It also lies in the midst of the Gifberg, Maskam and Koebee peaks — that gently continue the presence of mountains already experienced through Morreesburg and Piketberg in the form of the distant Kleinwinterhoek and Grootwinterhoek peaks, the Piekenierskloof Pass as one leaves the Swartland, and the beautiful Cedarberg from Citrusdal and Clanwilliam.

A gentle drive through Klawer and Vredendal as the sun begins its descent reveals yet further vineyards wherever the eye can see, and the two little towns (Vredendal is slightly larger, even if its tourism centre doesn't bother opening on weekends or public holidays — when do they think people travel?) cater for local farmers whose impressive vineyards continue to sweep away from the banks of the Olifants River.

Photographs — Left: View of Sishen Saldanha from guest house / Right: River canals

The three little villages of the wine route in this part of the world — Klawer, Vredendal and Lutzville — all lie just 25 kilometres inland from the crayfish-mad West Coast. There is obviously something about this proximity and the sea breezes that make their way across here that make for excellent wines. The area is dubbed the Matzikama by the tourist authorities as a way to distinguish it from the other West Coast regions of the Peninsula, Bergrivier, Swartland and Hardeveld. This region borders the Atlantic Ocean to the west and includes the Sandveld, Knersvlakte and the Matzikamma Mountains.

We finally reach Melkboomsdrift, just outside Vredendal (there aren't many places to stay around here) in the late afternoon. I can commit murder for a cup of tea, and we are shown quickly and very efficiently (I'm used to more of an informal introduction, but nevermind) to our self-catering apartment, the former school, now called 'die skooltjie' ('n mens moet hier die taal kan praat, jong).

This beautiful part of the boutique wine farm — the rest is over the road on an accompanying wine farm where the farmer stays in a more modern rendition than this gorgeous old homestead, which dates back to 1820 — has been converted into 13 rooms and suites.

Photographs — Left: Melkboomsdrift Lodge / Views over the Olifants River Valley

The lodge is perched overlooking the Olifants River, a huge bridge over which the Sishen Saldanha rail transports one of the longest trains you'll ever encounter, back and forth throughout the day, lies in the near distance — obviously visible from the farm as it straddles over the valley. Luckily, you are barely aware of the train here. I've stayed in Elandsbaai where its passing is something of a tumultous earthquake – one's very conversation no longer worth continuing, and one's sleep interrupted if you're not used to it, which obviously I wasn't.

The following morning, the early sun (and our son, whom I think helped rouse the neighbours too – he isn't used to sharing walls) wakes us, and the front bougainvillea-beset stoep comes alive. Our little skooltjie unfortunately has no door onto the stoep, but we nonetheless carry our early morning coffee (and grapefruit picked up at a farmstall en route) around to soak up the morning rays. Not that this stops our four-year old, who climbed over the sill of the thick, old window and out onto the cool slastone beyond.

Later Hanika shows me around the rooms. Each of them is aptly named after their original function – Koeistal, Perdestal, and the Meulkamer –  the Koeistal still has the feeding trough intact. To get around the fact that these are listed buildings because of their historical value, freestanding Victorian style bathrooms have been screened off as part of the room, rather than building on bathrooms. It all works beautifully, and a stay here for your honeymoon, or something equally romantic, is a must.

Photographs — Left: Die Skooltjie / The stoep (verandah)

Hanika is originally from Nieuwoudtville, to which we're en route. We immediately begin trading ideas and inhouse secrets, and before long I'm receiving an education on local breads – mosbrood, skynsbrood, farm bread and the like. Scared that we're going to miss out on Nieuwoudtville's annual market day held at the church in town, she phones ahead and makes sure that her mother keeps some bread aside for us. Just as well, as we get sidetracked in Vanrhynsdorp. But that's another story.

We leave, imbued by the local hospitality, delighted by the pretty accommodation and eager to experience Nieuwoudtville.

Melkboomsdrift Lodge: Contact Hilsa Van Heerden, Telephone: +27 (0)27 217‑2624

Useful Olifants River Valley Links:
Olifants River Valley Attractions
Olifants River Valley Accommodation
Things to Do in the Olifants River Valley
Western Cape Accommodation

Struisbaai

I have a very fond memory of swimming in a lagoon ten years ago. Not only found because I was ten years younger but also because the surrounding were so exquisite. Basically it was like being in The Blue Lagoon. Ten years later I may have changed, but the Blue Lagoon hasn’t. It’s real name is Struisbaai and it’s well known for the longest continuous stretch of white sand coastline in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s also only ten minutes from Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa.

Struisbaai is as close to a tropical paradise as one can get with its exquisite white sand beaches, crystal clear water and little fishing boats.  Your first stop after the drive should be  Pelican’s Harbour, an awesome little seafood restaurant serving fresh fish. Sitting on the deck, with the water lapping a few feet away from us at the harbour’s edge, you’ll be mesmerized by the picturesque scene of locals bartering with the fisherman for their daily catch. Originally built in 1959 Struisbaai Harbour serves local fishing boats as well as ski boats for visitors in holiday season. With your belly’s bursting, you should set out with one goal in mind: to make use of all that Struisbaai had to offer.

Here are a few things you have to do in and around Struisbaai:

1.Whale watching:

Struisbaai is home to the highest concentration of Southern Right Whales so be sure to look out for these placid giants. Sit on a boat in the Struisbaai Harbour and enjoy watching the enthralling site as they mate and calve during May to December.

2. Coastal safari

Land Rover tours are available along the coast of  L’Agulhas and Struisbaai. Local tour guide Riaan Pienaar will amaze even the most well-informed of people with his vast knowledge. On route is the shipwrecked  Meisho Maru, a Japanese fishing trawler, as well as old khoi khoi homes, with their ancient fish traps made of rocks.  Hopefully you’ll also be lucky enough to see an oystercatcher, a rare species of bird.

3. De Mond Nature Reserve

If you have the time, take a day trip to De Mond Nature Reserve. Offering picturesque hikes along coastal sand dunes, De Mond is not only beautiful it is also rich in birdlife. Keep an eye out for rare species like the Damara tern and the African black oystercatcher. The reserve, lying at the mouth of the Heuningnes River is also an ideal spot for fishing. Home to many species of animals, the only notable predator is the caracal. Never fear it is not often seen and you are far more likely to see grysbok, steenbok and grey duiker.

4. The lighthouse at Cape Agulhas

Due to the treacherous seas around Cape Agulhas, this red and white striped lighthouse was erected in 1848 to reduce the number of fatalities. It is south Africa’s second oldest working lighthouse and home to the only Lighthouse Museum in South Africa. There is also a small rustic restaurant there to complete the feel. More info: Cape Agulhas Lighthouse

5. De Hoop Nature and Marine Reserve

A bit further along, the De Hoop Nature reserve is well worth the drive. Take a mountain bike and enjoy the meandering trails with its abundance of diverse fynbos, vegetation, wildlife and birdlife. If you’re an avid hiker hike the De Hoop Whale Trail. This five day, 54km hike is not for the faint hearted. During whale season, if lucky, you can hear the whales bellowing in the waters below. Reservations are essential. Contact +27 (0) 21 425 5020

6. Fishermen’s cottages at Hotagterklip

Neighbouring Struisbaai, Hotagterklip is an old fishing village. Having been declared national monuments, the historical white washed fishermen’s cottages have been  beautifully restored and are well worth a visit. The name Hotagterklip (meaning left hind stone) originates from the ox-wagon era. When a stone became entrenched in the middle of the road, the left hind ox had to haul very hard to get the wagon pole to pass to the left of the stone.

Struisbaai Links:
Struisbaai Attractions
Struisbaai Accommodation
Cape Agulhas Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation

Old Mac Daddy

The weather was divine. It was a beautiful winters day, with rays of sun tickling your skin with warmth while leaving the sky clear and beautiful, when I left the hustle and bustle of the city and in just over an hour’s drive and a dirt road later I saw before me glistening Airstream trailers nestled into the hillside ... We had arrived at the Old Mac Daddy in the Elgin Valley.

Our first port of call was to sit and relax on the deck to enjoy one another’s company and soak in the setting. I was told that the dam was soon to be filled with trout of many sizes and so those fishing enthusiasts will have plenty of fun, although once you see the deck I’m not sure you will want to leave that spot ...

I was looking forward to spending the night in a trailer, it’s a unique concept and it’s not every night that you get to call home an Airstream trailer. What makes this accommodation in Elgin even more unique is that each trailer has been individually decorated according to a designer’s chosen theme. We went to have a look at some of the trailers and I was certainly taken a back to the imagination that some people have, you really need to see it to believe it. Each trailer has a postbox, one of those old school American ones with a flag stating the name and is a great welcome to your room.

Slightly different to the rooftop trailer park at the Grand Daddy the Old Mac has given you extra space and has added on a bathroom and lounge area as well as a deck to really give you some space. The design is simple and I like to think of it as rustic-chic as the furniture and soft finishing’s have their own feel. Think bucket stools and outdoor seating where you can change the back rest according to how you’d like to sit. The trailer then becomes your bedroom and you really can decide how you’d like to spend your time there. You can take it as just a place to sleep or you can immerse yourself in the design and explore each and every detail of the room. Believe me there is detail in everything.

The rooms have interesting names that hint to their inside theme. Give Bees a Chance is burst of yellow with honeycomb and bee trinkets dotted all around the interior. Dirkie Sanchez is a theme for the young at heart with a wrestling ring as a bed and costumes to dress up in, a wacky concept but once you’re in there you can almost hear the crowd roaring in anticipation. Yellow Submarine comes complete with a real periscope where you can get a unique view of the valley, nowhere else will you find the inside of a submarine in a trailer above ground!

I didn’t mind which trailer I stayed in and asked to be “surprised” and I had a happy surprise when I was escorted to the For Better or for Boerewors trailer. What a treasure trove of memories and fabulous things to look at. A typewriter at the ready to send a loved one a letter, hot water bottle flower holders, bread baking in the oven and my favourite the Ouma Rusk duvet cover to snuggle under and many more lovely things to discover.

But these are only some of the twelve trailers suites at the Old Mac Daddy. With so many options it is easy to come back time and again and have a different experience, this is definitely not like a standard room at any other hotel.

Bigger families can take up residence in Daddy’s Villa a three bedroom self catering unit with magnificent views from the big glass windows. Although if I was staying there I would probably spend all of my time in the private outdoor bath which is just off the main bedroom, secluded and romantic this is definitely the place to restore your soul.

The main area of the lodge is called the Barn and for obvious reasons because from the outside it looks just like one. The Barn is where you check in and familiarise yourself with the place and for those of you with little ones there is a dedicated room just for them which has delightful murals on the walls and a big wooden apple tree in the middle of the room. Just outside is any active kids heaven with a huge wooden tractor which doubles as a jungle gym.

Upstairs you’ll find the restaurant and large bar area with fireplaces and over turned buckets as lampshades. The barn has gorgeous views of the valley and it almost looks like a photograph when you look through one of the huge windows. There was some very clever planning when the barn was built as there are not one but two balconies so if the wind is blowing on one side you can catch some fresh air on the other side without the wind hassling you to much.

Once you have settled yourself in you can take your time away at your own pace. With so much to do in and around the Elgin Valley, the Old Mac Daddy is a great base from which to explore the area. I think ideally this is not a one night stay (as I did) you should stay at least a day or two to really experience your surroundings. Shark cage diving in Gansbaai is only a short distance away, or why not go and taste some wines at the numerous vineyards in the area. If you prefer to sit and relax there are many spots in which to do so at the Old Mac Daddy, I would definitely suggest your deck area at your suite as the views are uninterrupted, or lounge around the pool or even relax in the Barn. For those of you who are active and need a gym you won’t have a conventional gym here but you do have the Lebanon trail right in your backyard and can either do a bit of a trail run or MTB to get those endorphins going.

Something I found quite special about the Old Mac Daddy is the relationship with the community, the land used is owned by the Vuki Trust which is a hugely successful BEE ownership project where the farm workers from the community own the land. The Old Mac Daddy is looking to improve this area and empowering the community. A few examples of how they’re doing this is that they are starting a library in the Barn which the community will be free to use, also on the go are small projects which will enable different parts of the running of the lodge to be community owned and managed. To start off if you’d like to hire a mountain bike or go on a trail you can do this from the lodge through this micro business. They soon hope to do the same with things such as the laundry service.

We went in winter and were lucky enough to have perfect weather but I do think the best time to go would be spring or summer. Spring because from the Barn you are able to see a lot of trees that will soon be bursting in pink colour with all of their blossoms, but I think summer would be best so you can appreciate the beauty of the outdoors.

The food is simple and delicious, on the menu for the evening was either tomato and vegetable bredie or bobotie and I was lucky enough to have someone to share my meal with so I got a taste of both. Let me tell you that the bobotie was out of this world and puts my mother’s to shame – but I won’t tell her that. After dinner you need to go and spend some time outside with your head towards the heavens. Living in the city you really can forget the magic the sky holds and on this evening the sky was shining bright with stars.

This is such a different venue that I think anyone would enjoy their stay, but each for their own different reasons. Bring your partner for a romantic weekend break away, come with your family or bring a group of friends to relax enjoy one another’s company and just have fun. The staff are relaxed yet attentive (and all very good looking…) and will make you feel like you’re at home because they have opened theirs to you.

I had a grand Old Mac Daddy time and will definitely be back with a group of my favourite people to have a few more laughs and enjoy the gorgeous setting.

Contact Old Mac Daddy:
Telephone: Tel: +27 (0)21 462‑1709  or +27 (0)861-4DADDY
More Info at: Old Mac Daddy / Rates & Bookings

Elgin / Grabouw Links:
Elgin Attractions
Things to Do in Elgin
Elgin Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation

Photo Gallery: (click photographs to enlarge)

Kleinmond

About an hours drive from Cape Town, along the picturesque drive of the R44 is the little town of Kleinmond. Sitting between the jagged Palmiet mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean, this peaceful coastal town lies within the unique Kogelberg biosphere reserve boasting over 1600 species of indigenous plants. Although traditionally a retirement village, when holiday season hits, the town becomes ablaze with activity. With its gorgeous beaches; tranquil lagoon; fantastic hikes and walks; as well as sumptuous restaurants, Kleinmond is a little piece of paradise. Outdoor enthusiasts and history buffs alike will enjoy the remote wilderness as well as Kleinmond’s sordid and exciting history ...

For those who enjoy a bit of sand, sun and excitement, Kleinmond has much to offer, especially in the way of water sports, ranging from canoeing down the rivers, swimming in the lagoon, fishing in the ocean and exploring the rocky tidal pools. For those who prefer their feet firmly on the ground, there are numerous hikes and mountain trails. If this all sounding a bit too extreme, then try the luxurious Arabella Spa, just 10 minutes out of Kleinmond where you can enjoy steam baths, massages and all round pampering to revitalise both body and mind. There is also the Arabella Golf Club, one of the most beautiful golf courses in the country.

You can also wile away a day browsing through Harbour Road, with its charming little shops, great galleries and craft stores. This area is known for its fresh and tasty seafood, most notably perlemoen and oysters, so be sure to take a break and settle down into one of the many great restaurants. Harbour Road is also home to Immenhof Honey so be sure to taste some of the locally produced deliciously sweet honey. They allow guests to taste up to 10 varieties of honey as well as offering beeswax candles, teas, furniture oil, nuts, fruits, rolls and gifts.

Not only a picture perfect coastal town, Kleinmond has a rich history with stories of shipwrecks, pirates, runaway slaves and cattle thieves. Check out the graves of those who were shipwrecked off Palmiet Beach in 1902. The crosses and commemoration plaque were made from the sunken Norwegian ship, the Gustav Adolf.

A little less eerie, but also for the history buffs is the Toy Museum, with cars and dolls ranging from old-school to modern from all around the world. There is also an Iron Museum open on Fridays and Saturdays , which will show you the amazing evolution of irons from the Chinese silk irons to ox tongues and the tattle-tale iron. As if this isn’t enough to keep you busy, the front entrance of the library has a tapestry depicting the history of Kleinmond and is a must see. It took ten Kleinmond ladies and a total of 1,439 hours to finish it.

For an extra special sight, go to the beach at first light during the winter and look out for the Paper Nautilus shell. Closely related to the octopus the female Paper Nautilus has a rounded body with eight tentacles and a papery shell which she makes and uses to carry her eggs. These shells are exquisite and can make for a beautiful gift or as a reminder of the harmonious coastal town.

Kleinmond Links:
Kleinmomd Attractions
Kleinmond Hotels
Kleinmond Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation

Rosendal, Free State

I'd heard that Rosendal is the "next" Clarens and seeing as we were en route from Ficksburg to Clarens and Rosendal is only a teeny bit off track we used this as our opportunity to pop in and see the village for ourselves.  One is greeted by a fairly large ‘map’ of Rosendal when arriving but to be honest we drove down a dusty track and thought to ourselves ‘what the heck is all the fuss about’ — in fact we couldn’t even find a shop of any kind!  We spotted a church steeple and being the intrepid, seasoned explorers that we are made our way towards that landmark ...

Aha — good move that was.  Almost directly opposite the church is Turvsy Trading; a cauldron of enamel signs, antiques, bicycles, woollen goods and just about everything else you could think of.  I walked into the shop and my jaw hit the ground!  It was like walking into a regter egter trading store 100 years ago; in fact I was about to start snapping away with my camera but the owner of the store stopped me; that particular section of the shop was to be made into a museum and a film company had all the photo and filming rights.

I got into conversation with the store owner and she told me that she had befriended an elderly gentleman who owned a trading store in Lesotho.  His store was packed to the brim with everything we still find on our store shelves today; Vaseline Lip Ice, Frisco coffee, Oros cordial, Lux soaps, Lexington cigarettes etc but these items dated back many many years (for instance Vaseline Lip Ice was only 15c!)  He also had reams and reams of fabric brought straight from the United Kingdom still with the price tag in yards and shillings! It was all fascinating. When this elderly gentleman passed away she bought a lot of his stock and filled Turvsy Trading with these items.

We wandered around the yard, also filled with enamel signs, wooden tables and various other things before strolling down to the coffee shop.  This huge shop was also filled with enamelware, loads of porcelain antiques, light shades and an entire closet of never worn 1960's clothes!  The coffee shop also doubles as a theatre and the owner puts on a delicious three course meal so it’s a real theatre and dinner extravaganza.  Seating 120, bookings are snapped up and in fact most performances are sold out.

Rosendal is a quaint little village and I can see the attraction of spending time there; I don’t think it’s quite the next Clarens but if peace, quiet and beauty are what you are after then Rosendal is the place for you.

Photographs of Rosendal & The Turvsy Trading Store:

Rosendal Links:
Rosendal Attractions
Rosendal Accommodation
Free State Accommodation

Sutherland

I spent the first few days of August in the coldest place in South Africa; Sutherland.  I had arrived prepared with my warmest winter woolies transported from my London days and to be perfectly honest, I was dying to wear my GAP down filled jacket again.  Unluckily for me though, Sutherland did not live up to its reputation and instead we walked around in jeans, t-shirts and slops!

We arrived via Loxton and from quite a distance out one can make out the domes of SALT (Southern Africa Large Telescope) for which Sutherland is just as famously known but this Northern Cape town has a few other interesting points of interest ...

The N G Church
This beautiful church, designed by Charles Freeman is located on Piet Retief Street.  Built to seat 1200 worshippers, the church is enormous with a most impressive ceiling of Canadian Maple — each piece of which was shipped, cut and planed to size to fit perfectly on arrival in Sutherland.  The church was only consecrated in 1903 — the original date of consecration in 1900 had to be postponed due to a diphtheria epidemic and in between that time British soldiers fighting in the Anglo Boer War had occupied the church.  A wooden door with graffiti from the British soldiers is on view in the church.

The Louw Musuem (corner of Jubilee and Northumberland Streets)
Now used as a literary museum, the original house was built in 1861 and consisted of four rooms.  Purchased by a Moltkie Louw in 1904, the house was restored and a distinctive concave verandah was added.

The Radar Station
Erected in 1991, the Sutherland Radar Station on Swaartweerberg fills the gap between Cape Town and Bloemfontein.  Air traffic, altitude, speed and direction of aircraft can be precisely determined to within a radius of a couple of metres!  Flight routes and times can therefore be quickly determined.

SALT (Southern Africa Large Telescope)
With international partners, SALT has built the largest single optical telescope in the Southern Hemisphere.  The telescope consists of 91 movable mirrors, each one about one metre wide and they weigh about 100kgs each.  These form a giant mirror capable of observing a candle flame on the moon. It's used for analyzing the size and age of the universe and studying star systems a billion times to far away to be seen with the naked eye.

I really enjoyed Sutherland; of course it would have been magical to have experienced a snowfall but perhaps next time! If you are planning on visiting Sutherland please appreciate that life moves at a slightly slower pace and don’t expect anything to be open between 1pm and 2pm; that’s siesta time!  The locals are very friendly and always open to a conversation and a story of life in Sutherland!

Sutherland Links:
Sutherland Attractions
Things to Do in Sutherland
Upper Karoo Accommodation
South Africa Accommodation

Bettys Bay

The quaint seaside village of Betty’s Bay is the perfect get away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Located between Kleinmond and Pringle Bay, Betty’s Bay is only an hour’s drive from Cape Town along the picturesque Clarence Drive Route (R44). Squeezed between the Kogelberg Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean and surrounded by fresh water lakes and the Palmiet River, this coastal town has a lot to offer.

Here are a few of the must see attractions ...

Stoney Point

If you like penguins (and who doesn’t?) a visit to Stoney Point is a must.  This breeding colony to the Jackass Penguin is best visited in the late afternoon when the penguins return from fishing. Strolling along the boardwalk you might even catch a glimpse of a whale or two. In addition to Stoney Point, Betty’s Bay has some magnificent beaches such as Silver Sands and Hangklip dunes. The beaches of Betty’s Bay are all excellent spots for kite surfing, picnics, swimming and surfing although Jock’s Bay and Shelly Beach are more suited to youngsters being great for shell collection and paddling.

Harold Porter National Botanical Gardens.

Situated in the heart of the Cape Fynbos Region, the Harold Porter National Botanical Gardens has both a cultivated fynbos garden as well as natural fynbos.  The garden which lies cosily between mountain and sea contain proteas, restios, leucadendrons and over 50 species of ericas and includes extensive mountain slopes, deep gorges, afro montane forests, wetlands and coastal dunes. Picturesque and peaceful, the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens are also home to some 60 species of birds, genets, nocturnal porcupines, mongooses, otters, dassies, baboons and although rare, leopards have also been spotted by the lucky visitor. Try hiking up Leopard’s Gorge Trail or up to Disakloof Waterfall. If that’s not enough to satisfy you, there’s also an amazing indigenous plants nursery, picnic areas and sunset concerts in summer.

Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve

This narrow coastal plain is wedged between the magnificent Atlantic ocean, with its jagged, rocky shore and vast sandstone mountains. The Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve

is home to over 1880 different species of plant, of which 77 species occur nowhere else in the world. You will find no fences protecting nature from humans and vice versa, rather the fierce commitment of local communities, farmers, conservation agencies and local government is what protects this magnificent landscape.  Permits are required, but these can be obtained easily at the Oudebosch Office in the reserve. Tel. (028) 2715138.

Home to both breathtaking flora and fauna, Betty’s Bay has it all. As well as these attractions, Betty’s Bay has even more to offer in the way of outdoor activities. Try angling from the surf or the rocks or white water rafting, tubing and canoeing on the Palmiet River. Sandboarding down the Silver Sands Dune is also a favourite for youngsters. Also, don’t forget to check out local artists at the Art Route Gallery on Clarence Drive.

Bettys Bay Links:
Bettys Bay Attractions
Things to Do in Bettys Bay
Bettys Bay Accommodation
Bettys Bay Guest Houses
Western Cape Accommodation

Genadendal

Tourist brochures speak about Genadendal as a 'must do' when in Greyton. The quaint little historical village just six kilometres outside of Greyton is described as the oldest Moravian mission village on the continent, never mind South Africa, and as a village 'frozen in the past' with streets of gorgeously neat little thatched white-walled cottages.

This description is partly true — the carefully maintained history and buildings are beautiful. Some of them date back as far as 1738 and a visit here is definitely worth it to soak up the history of this missionary town. But what descriptions don't include is that to reach the carefully maintained historical buildings, you have to drive through the abject poverty that is Genadendal's outlying community.

The glaring contrast between Greyton — where we had just spent a weekend in amongst the 'mink and manure' set of Cape Town for whom driving SUVs and landies along the roads of Greyton is high on the social agenda — and Genadendal, is more than striking. It's darned depressing.

The contradiction is not new by any means. We're confronted by it time and again in South Africa. But in Genadendal I found it particularly blatant because the historical village lies in the town square, in the heart of the village. One first drives through a collection of quaint, it's true, cottages of people obviously poverty stricken and in dire need of a financial, social and educational injection.

At the centre of Genadendal are the remains of a missionary village, started by Georg Schmidt, a German missionary of the Moravian Church, an evangelical Protestant denomination, who came here to evangelise among the Khoi people so many years ago.

Photographs — Left: The Museum / Right: Moravian bookshop, printing museum, paper making

A museum filled with the most amazing collection of artefacts, the Moravian mission church with the oldest pipe organ in South Africa, a beautiful manse, a grove of oak trees (leafless at this time of year so we had to imagine how pretty it would be in summer), an operational water mill, an information area in which there are constantly new displays (the new display when we were there was of Georg Schmidt), a printing museum, an operating blacksmith, a restaurant, a group of weavers, country accommodation, a bookshop and an old bell — initially used to call people to church, and children to school — make up a beautifully relevant outdoor collection of our history.

Just inside the doorway to the mission museum, where had we had the time we would have learnt first-hand from one of Genadendal's residents about the different artefacts, is a letter from Nelson Mandela. The letter declares presidential support for the Mission Museum's development initiatives. It appears that since 1991 the contents of the museum have been declared a National Cultural Treasure and Mandela renamed his official Cape Town residence, Genadendal, after the town, he was so moved by it.

'Today' (he wrote the letter in 1998) he continues, ' I am adding my support to efforts to restore the community to its old industrious self, through the implementation of a Living Museum Project planned by the Museum. This project plans to contribute to the economic emancipation of the town where 70% of the citizens still live under the bread line'.

A financial injection the project definitely is. It is run by and employs local residents of Genadendal. Yet despite this, things don't seem to have changed all that much for the majority of people here.

Photographs — Left: The old mill / Right: The Bell

Genadendal (Valley of Grace) has a phenomenal history, which you can read in brochures and on the internet so I shall do little more than outline the reason for my fascination. Had the town been left to its own devices, it would have flourished. Some believe enough to rival the town of Stellenbosch. This despite the fact that Georg Schmidt was thrown out of the little mission village after only seven years because the Cape Dutch Reformed clergy didn't believe he had the right to baptise converts.

If you do the maths, over 45 years later the Moravians finally got permission to resume Schmidt's work. The number of residents increased to such an extent that at one stage Genadendal was the largest settlement in the Cape Colony after Cape Town.

It flourished due to home industries and self-sufficient communities and became an important education centre, until the Communal Reserve Act of 1909 for Mission Stations put paid the growth because it prevented inhabitants from owning property. 1926 saw the closing of the Teachers Training College (now the museum) because 'coloured people had no need of tertiary education'. And the rest, they say, was history.

Photograph: Pretty Genadendal ...

Our arrival was on a frosty Monday morning, just before 10am, and things were only stirring in the town square. A post office worker screamed up in her delivery van, greeted what appeared to be a collection of rather official looking gentlemen who were gathering in the sunlight after a meeting, delivered her post to the Post Office on the square, and moved on. Other than that, there wasn't much happening. At around 10.30 am, someone popped her head out of the restaurant's barn door, and soon the smell of cooking mingled in the air.

We got into conversation with the resident blacksmith, as the locals appeared reticent to engage with us. Genadendal wasn't his home however. He rents space here as Greyton is too expensive for him to do his metal work there.

If you can, try to visit the town. I would imagine on any other day, particularly if a bus load of tourists arrive, the village would take on a life of its own and bustle with activity. The people here are proud of their history, and the beautifully preserved buildings in traditional Cape style surrounded by oak trees are really worth seeing.

There is also a well known and loved, although fairly taxing, hiking trail called the Genadendal Hiking Trail. It begins and ends in Genadendal at the historical mission church. The trail winds its way on both sides of the Riviersonderend Mountains with beautiful views.

Useful Links:
Genadendal Attractions
Greyton Accommodation
Greyton Hotels
Western Cape Accommodation

Aasvoëlkrans B&B

Let me let you into a secret. Pretty Aasvoëlkrans is really worth your rand. To say that you are  spoilt for choice when it comes to accommodation in Montagu is an understatement. There is so much to choose from that it can get a little confusing. But if you're after a little bit of luxury, with a huge dollop of contrariness, individuality and personality, then this country setting B&B is for you.

I have not been exposed to something quite as original as Aasvoëlkrans before. Set on an Arabian stud farm just outside town — Church Street is a mere 10 minutes walk from here — the accommodation is a series of completely individual and private garden rooms. Each has its own bedroom, en suite bathroom, balcony, and a couple their own kitchenette ...

Whilst this sounds like a fairly ordinary set up, it isn't. What makes it so very different is the personality of its owner, Jeanne. Jeanne is an artist. This is perfectly obvious from the minute you set foot on the property. Her quirkiness, love of colour and her need to transform every corner of the property with a series of unusual tableaus affects every nook and cranny, every bend or curve of the house and garden fall under her eccentric spell, and the result is a feast of art, statues, plants, colour and impact.

Aasvoëlkrans is one of the only B&Bs to find its way onto the art and crafts map of Montagu. Jeanne's walls, halls, garden and breakfast area are all host to the works of her own, her daughter's and local artists' works. Folded pieces of festive material and table cloths, cushions, bright pink chairs around her swimming pool, statuettes, wooden swings in trees, and a collection of pottery and crockery that adorn the shelves, not only of her kitchen but the accommodation as well, add to the effect. Everything, including the very plants in the garden, form part of a larger tapestry that turns the entire experience into a work of art.

Jeanne has spared no expense or passion when it comes to preparing a place of refuge for her visitors. Her rooms are filled with the type of opulence associated with luxury accommodation, so that even in the dead of winter, which was when we found ourselves staying in her newest flatlet that comes with a lounge kitchenette as well as a bedroom en suite, we lacked for nothing. The roaring fire in the ceramic fireplace kept the entire place sizzlingly warm, and our down duvet warm as toast whilst asleep. She even laid in a camping cot for our four-year old, who had a ball climbing her trees, playing with trucks stored in the resident wigwam for her grandchildren, and on the steps of the flatlet with his blocks.

Whilst Jeanne's choice of décor for breakfast, and just what food to serve every morning is very dependent on her mood, you welcome any evidence of artistic temperament and the inventive and talented way in which her stylish abode is put together. She is obviously skilled at adorning all around her in a way that is delightful to be in. Her attention to detail and the obvious love she has poured into her venue honours visitors.

And the farm is without doubt a beautiful setting. In a paddock close to the accommodation are a number of athletic Arabian horses. In the light of very early morning (let's not forget that despite the luxury, we were still in the company of a very small child set on waking as soon as the very first cock crowed) these horses are taken individually through their paces and it is too beautiful to stand and watch them as dawn breaks.

Then beneath boughs still dripping with early morning dew, we made our way across to the main house for breakfast – a sumptuous selection of fruits, yoghurt, crumpets, honey, cereals, coffee, tea, freshly squeezed juice and the option of organic farm eggs and bacon. All of this served on a series of gorgeous pottery bowls and crockery laid on brightly coloured table linen, flowers deftly plonked in a bucket, its very informality a way of offsetting the beauty of the flowers.

To keep us warm, Jeanne had ingeniously used a gas outdoor heater, the type you usually associate with restaurants during winter. She could do so as the breakfast room, just down from her kitchen, is set under high rafters. During summer, Jeanne serves her visitors outside under the trees in the garden, her swimming pool available for early morning dips – it gets hot here.

Jeanne is quick to whip out the art and crafts map as a way to show you around town. She  highlights those places worth a visit and outlines which restaurants in town are best for which meals. She is aware that we need child-friendly venues and points these out. Whilst we are eating, our abode is quietly being cleaned and aired so that when we return, it is ship-shape, flowers adorn the surface areas, and our bath towels are on the line to dry.

Whilst we are there she has a photographer visit to try to capture the charm of the place. It's difficult, and I can understand why she's already had two or three photographers around here. One has almost to stay here for a while, to drink it all in, before one starts snapping away. Aasvoëlkrans is an experience, and it can't be captured simply in a few photographs...

Aasvoëlkrans Contact Details:
Address: Van Riebeeck Street No 1, Montagu, Breede River Valley, Western Cape
Jeanne, Telephone +27 (0)23 614‑1228 or +27 (0)82 552‑4545
Web Pages: Aasvoëlkrans Bed & Breakfast

Special Offer: If you stay two nights or more, you get one night free as part of a winter special at Aasvoëlkrans B&B.

Montagu Links:
• Montagu — A Visitors Perspective
• Montagu Map
• Montagu Photographs
• Montagu Accommodation
• Breede River Valley Accommodation
• Western Cape Accommodation

Barrydale

Arriving in Barrydale is like a breath of fresh air. Nothing quite prepares you for its uniquely arty bent or prettiness, other than the fact that people are talking about it. And one soon understands why. Barrydale is quirky, home to at least two cob houses, dry shale walls, loads of restaurants, the infamous Karoo hotel, a labyrinth, hot springs, a community of both English and Afrikaans speaking artists, a fair number of French, German, Spanish and Italian residents, vineyards, a group of hand weavers, and views to die for.

The town lies in the lush Tradouw valley, at the northern end of the Tradouws Pass surrounded by the Langeberg and Swartberg Mountains, roughly an hour from Montagu. Drive a little way out of town and orchards filled with apple, pear, orange, apricot, fig and peach trees dominate the farmlands, the odd derelict barn or farm building next to a windmill a sign that you're in the Karoo and that average summer heat reaches up to 35°C. In winter there is a harsher beauty here. The light is constantly lucid and autumnal, the skies are an incredible blue and the fruit trees devoid of their leaves.

Except that Barrydale, despite marketing to the contrary, does not 'officially' lie in the Little Karoo.  For one it has a higher rainfall than the Karoo, and geographically and geologically it has unique features of its own. Some refer to it instead as a valley between the Karoo and the coastal belt. It falls between the cracks, so to speak, in more ways than one.

Once upon a time, this was Kannaland, rich in Bushman/Khoisan history, before settlers made their way here after 1700. People of the Attaqua tribe of Hottentots travelled through the Langeberg in the area today known as the Tradouw (women's footpath) Poort and they had kraals on the other side of the mountain in today's town of Suurbraak, the quaint missionary town.

Photographs — Left: Barrydale Church / Right: Barrydale Tourism Info Centre

As with just about any little town in the country, the town's history dates back to the building of the local community's church in roughly 1878, right where the R62 and the R324 connect. But it was only later in 1940 that a cooperative was formed for the local wine farmers, and today the town is flourishing, not least because, despite there being no chemist, doctor, pharmacy or vet (unless you count the vet that visits the town once a month) people like to retire here, or at least intend living here for as long as they can.

As often happens in small towns, we bump into someone we know from Cape Town. Kim has been living here now for nigh on two years and she loves it. She describes the atmosphere here as something that grips you. She says artists here are inspired and their work is prolific. Somehow the surrounds engender an urge to create. And you have to, to make ends meet. The local smithy is also a chef and artist, other artists have 'day jobs' and their art is displayed in local galleries or at the market in Montagu. It's how you survive in a small town. That and scaling down. But it doesn't seem to deter anyone.

Photographs — Left: Barrydale Jam Tarts Restaurant / Right: Magpie Gallery

And there is a burgeoning economy if the number of shops, restaurants and Barrydale accommodation venues are anything to go by. On our first day exploring the streets of Barrydale, we end up at Mud. It turns out that this is the baby of Carol Morris, who is also responsible for establishing Barrydale's hand weavers, which we are due to visit the following day. (see our article here: Fetching cotton rugs — Barrydale hand weavers). But at the time we don't connect the dots. She's busy putting last minute details to the outside of the gallery/restaurant and we're catching up with our acquaintance around a mug of hot chocolate and a very warm fire.

Mud is about to relaunch. Its heyday as a local art gallery was over three years ago now. In the interim it's been a nursery and now Carol is taking over again and relaunching it as a combination art and metal works gallery and restaurant, serving up meals after dark, which most restaurants around here fail to do, apparently, and dishing out home cooked takeaways for those who aren't keen on cooking.

Photographs — Left: Barrydale Karoo Hotel / Centre: Barrydale local church / Right: Typical stoep in Barrydale

And its name? Mud is called mud because it's made predominantly with clay and locally sourced materials. The house was designed by Andy Horn, an architect well known amongst the sustainable and green living crowd in Cape Town for his cob and strawbale home designs and built in 2002.

Right next door to Mud is Herman van Wyk's studio, where he makes a series of chandeliers, candelabras, one-off door hinges and handles, tables and chairs all from metal and wood. He's also busy cooking up a bowl of pasta for the opening night of Mud, or something about launching the incredible fireplace on display in the gallery that he is reputed to have made. But we leave after our mug of hot chocolate intent on establishing a fire of our own in our accommodation.

Times are not all that easy. Shops come and go. Mary's Barn is now Back to Roots, an eclectic mix of local arts and crafts, collectables and gifts, a hairdresser, take aways, pizzas, and an internet café. It's filled with wonderful clothing, baskets, shoes and other items that make shopping here worth a stop. The place is run by Cassie, who is also a local graphic designer, and hires out a cob house that she partly owns, in which we are staying.

Photographs — Left: Quirky accommodation / Right: Galleon Nook

A little lower in Barrydale is the Karoo hotel, which of course comes with a story that made me want to investigate the hotel's inner workings, except that by the time we got there on Monday morning, it was closed! Back in time the hotel used to be what locals smilingly describe as 'viciously gay friendly' – there were parts of the hotel to which you were not privy if you were straight, and you certainly didn't stay there with your children.

But the lushness of the décor and the exceptional plush fabric, statues, incredible ambience and the very 'presentation' of the place put the Karoo Hotel on the map. Then there was a fire, and the hotel underwent a revamp to something a little more 'low key', although not before the fire devastated doorway had served as a backdrop to a pristinely set, white tablecloth bedecked table – quite a tableau if you can picture it – immediately after the fire. Speak about making the most of a moment! (you can understand why I wanted to visit).

There is enough in Barrydale to warrant at least a five-day visit. Less than this and you'll miss out on the labyrinth at Lemoenshoek, the Warmwaterberg Spa where natural hot springs are the source of relaxation, countless local walks, plenty of little local shops worth exploring, numerous restaurants for breakfast and lunch, and the Barrydale Spring Festival in October (or thereabouts).

Barrydale Links:
Barrydale Attractions
Things to Do in Barrydale
Barrydale Accommodation
Western Cape Accommodation