Cape leopards are special – for one, they're incredibly beautiful, but they're also much smaller than those found in other parts of Africa, and they are the top predator in the mountains of the Cape. Their extinction can have an impact on the entire ecosystem. What this means is that the leopard is the apex predator in the Western Cape ecosystem. It thus acts as an 'umbrella species'. By protecting the leopard, one is also helping conserve smaller predators, as well as other animals occurring in the system.

The range of area each leopard needs in order to hunt and live is understandably threatened by development, but also by people who kill them to protect their farm animals. Today there are the Trust focuses on using information on the ecology of these predators to show that killing or relocation of them is not a solution to conflict situation. Some mitigating measure can be used such as livestock guardian dogs (like Anatolian shepherd dogs) and especially herders. The Trust currently has an experimental farm where they themselves are testing farming with herders and dogs while monitoring the behaviour of the predators (leopards, caracals and jackals) in the same area.

There are the added natural threats to the leopard especially when they are young, like snakes, disease, black eagles, malnutrition and, as their territories shrink, vying for territory with one another — sometimes to the death.

Leopards are very different from cheetahs, with whom they are often confused. Spots aside (cheetahs have individual spots whilst leopards have rings of spots called rosettes) leopards stalk their prey and need to get really close to them, when they pounce. In bushveld savanna, leopards then drag their prey up trees, however, in the mountains they have no suitable trees to hoist their prey into – so the generally find a comfy place with a good view to take their time and eat their meal. They are stockier and stronger as a result, whilst cheetahs are leaner and built for speed, chasing their prey over huge distances.

Quinton has shown that male leopards in the Cederberg have home ranges of between 200km² in the Fynbos and 1000km² in the Karoo. The Trust's website suggests that in comparison Kruger National Park male leopards have ranges of between 25 and 50km². This equates to densities being much lower in the Cederberg, as leopards are solitary cats with exclusive home ranges. Males have exclusive ranges, each with 2 – 3 females having their own exclusive ranges within these.

Since 2004, Quinton studied the leopard in the Cederberg to ascertain their population status and vulnerability. He started the Trust and serves as its project manager and major researcher, completing his PhD in 2010 through the University of Bristol. Elizabeth Martins runs the Education and Outreach Programme that the team feels is essential for the future of the cat and nature conservation in general.

The Trust runs children's camps that teach them about the wilderness and themselves. Via a National Lottery Distribution Trust Fund (NLDTF) grant the Trust provides sponsored camps and day trips to connect children to the wilderness. It also runs local environmental clubs such as the one at Eselbank, a local Cederberg school with whom the Trust actively works, and school presentations during which the Trust inspires children through a 45 minute presentation.

Ongoing leopard research in the Cederberg is, in the meantime, helping in a big way in managing and conserving the leopard population. Quinton has written his PhD on the ecology of leopards in the Cederberg, which gives researchers a reference to use in monitoring the movements of other leopard populations in similar mountainous terrain.

Quinton's approach has involved modern technology in the form of GPS satellite tracking devices and remote camera traps, which has brought him a little closer to establishing the needs of this unique cat population.

Part of the process has been to capture and collar adult leopards with GPS collars, allowing the Trust to collect data on their movements. This they've used to influence how best to manage predator/land owner relationships.

When the project began an average of seven leopards a year died in farmer-predator conflict. In the last seven years, only two have died in this way. Through the work of the Trust, the Cederberg Conservancy has supported leopard conservation and as a result, the Cederberg now has a stable leopard population the Trust can monitor over the long term.

The Trust keeps individual records of the leopards they tag. Most of them now have names. They have become individual cats to the team, not just numbers that form a statistic for science. They've identified 27 leopards in the Cederberg study over a six-year period – visit this page and then hover your mouse over Cederberg leopards.

Trapping any individual leopard to collar it is not a walk in the park. Traps have to be regularly checked — at least every two – three hours — so placing them way out of the way is counterproductive. At the same time, putting traps close to foot paths used regularly by hikers is also out of the question unless the trails are closed to the public.

The trapping process has been approved by the statutory conservation body and an ethics committee and a capture is always supervised by a vet. And the team test internationally acclaimed trapping techniques, such as the foot-loop traps revamped by American Dairen Simpson. Science has shown that these are the safest traps for large carnivores. The Trust is keen to use where possible, and are keeping records of their safety and efficacy.

If you do walk in the Cederberg and come upon a sign warning you of a leopard trapping in progress, you will be urged not to approach more – please take note and do not go near the traps as this could interfere with their hard work trying to capture these cats for conservation. Sometimes iti takes months to catch a targeted individual.

Of course finding a leopard in a vast and untamed area is anything but a walk in the park. Leopards are shy by nature and will go out of their way to avoid being seen. Very few people sight these wonderful cats at all. Which is why the Trust uses digital cameras with an infra-red sensors triggered by motion and heat.

This they call 'camera-trapping' – one can equate them to permanent fieldworkers — and it gives the team a good indication of the numbers of nocturnal leopards – a non-invasive and affordable option to capture. If two cameras are arranged at what's called a 'double station' – two cameras opposite one another – one is able to put together individual leopard identikits with photos of both the left and right flank of any individual cat.

The Trust is also involved in projects in Gouritz, the Boland mountains and Namaqualand.

Get Involved

If you want to get involved in the project there are a number of ways: you can raise awareness by buying (and wearing) a rather cool, hemp Cape Leopard Trust T-shirt, you can sponsor a camera trap, you can Adopt a Spot or if you are an organisation you can sponsor a school camp for disadvantaged children. Soon, leopard tracking trips in the Cederberg will become available to the hiking fit public. Register for updates on their website to be informed as soon as this happens – www.capeleopard.org.za

The team is happy to do presentations for any group, and they do school presentations at no charge.

Get in Touch

Email Elizabeth Martins on elizabeth@capeleopard.org.za

Useful Links

• Cederberg Attractions
• Things to Do in Cederberg
• Cederberg Accommodation
• Western Cape Accommodation

Kruger National Park

The Kruger National Park is undoubtedly THE place to be when it comes to seeing game in what should be their natural environment.  Even if during school holidays the number of people entering the park is questionable, traffic fairly congested, and the tendency of individuals to do silly things like feed hyenas and monkeys (now a constant pest in various rest camps) a sign that even in the Kruger, humans are encroaching on the freedom of the animals within. Despite this Kruger Park is a fantastic experience.

One of the world's largest game parks, Kruger has received a  myriad accolades for nature conservation and, more recently, has begun lowering fences that separate the park from neighbouring reserves, allowing the wildlife within even greater access to land and water, and increasing the chance to spot game.

But entering the park for the first time can be a little overwhelming. There are over nine entry points into the park and information on Kruger Park accommodation and the park in general is sometimes confusing.

We've put together a few tips and guidelines to help.

When at Kruger, what to remember:

• 50 km/hr speed limit — whilst the distances between camps might not sound a lot, the speed limit in the park is 50 km/hr on tar roads, so allow roughly 2.5 hours between camps for game viewing. Oh, and, stick to the limit, it's there for a reason...something to do with consideration for animals
• up with the birds – the general consensus is that getting out at dawn is almost guaranteed to reveal the best game, however, when we were there during winter, this was not the case; some of the best game spotting was during the mid-morning.
• dams, hides and picnic spots – you can break your drives by stopping at these, and some of them prove really great game viewing spots, particularly the dams and hides
• take your own – food (restaurants and shops provide only average and expensive meals), bath plugs, torches, insect repellent, sun block, hats and hiking boots
• take advantage of the night drives and guided walking trails – the night drives in particular need to be booked in advance and are well worth it. Each park has a different rate, so do your homework and book at those that charge a little less
• car hire at Skukuza – should your car break down, or if you are part of a tour
• petrol – the larger rest camps provide fuel
• remember to recycle – the park has prominent recycling bins at gates and rest camps

The difference between bush camps, rest camps, private camps,
and private lodges and camps

The rest camps and bush camps are fairly similar to look at, but are inherently different. The rest camps are – Skukuza, Balule, Pretoriuskop, Berg-en-Dal, Satara, Lower Sabie, Punda Maria, Shingwedzi, Olifants, Mopane, Tamboti, Orpen, Malelane, Maroela and Crocodile Bridge. At each of these are bungalows, camping and sometimes chalets, guest houses and tented camps, restaurants, shops and even the odd evening film.

The bush camps, sometimes referred to as bushveld camps, are quieter and more remote rest camps, also with their own toilets and kitchen facilities, but without shops or restaurants. There is no camping available, and thus the general rush of people that usually descend on the rest camps for lunch, are not allowed into the bush camps. These include Bateleur, Biyamiti, Shimuwini, Sirheni and Talamati. They're generally quieter and more remote.

Private camps are usually for groups of visitors and include Boulders, Malelane, Tsendze rustic campsite and Roodewal. These are usually booked up months in advance, for obvious reasons. Lovely if you've a slightly larger group (but look at them even if you a family)

Private lodges – until recently the policy of the Kruger was not to allow private lodge operators into the park. However, this has apparently changed, and a limited number of private lodges, other than those just outside the park, have been allowed to 'set up camp'. These include: Jock Safari Lodge, Pafuri, Imbali, Plains, Rhino Post, Camps Shawu, Camp Shonga and Hamiltons Tented Camp.

What to do other than drive around in your car
– guided walks and outdoor activities

Whilst undoubtedly a lot of fun is to be had driving slowly through the more remote parts of the park to spot game, this can get a little monotonous after a couple of days. There are other activities in which one can partake in the Kruger.

A series of guided wilderness walking trails that take a maximum of 8 people at a time, aged between 12 and 60, are available. They tend to be over a few days, are guided by armed rangers, and include accommodation and food. These include Bushman Trail, Metsimietsi Trail, Napi Trail, Olifants Trail, Sweni Trail and the Wolhuter Trail. On each of them one overnights at a bushveld camp and gets to experience the bush on foot.

Other outdoor things to do within Kruger include:

• mountain bike trails from Olifants Camp
• a 9 hole golf course at Skukuza
• 4X4 adventure trails (four one-day self-driven trails)
• sleepover hides – for the adventurous, these are at Sable Dam Hide near Phalaborwa Gate, and Shipandani Hide at Mopani

Tips for spotting the Big 5

There are those who firmly believe that spotting the Big 5 is simply luck of the draw. But there are a number of things you can do to bring you that much closer to them.

• Use the sightings boards – at the gates and rest camps there are boards that keep daily records of latest animal sightings. These can give you a good indication of the areas in which to drive if you haven't yet spotted a lion or leopard. The downside is that the boards are available to anyone to update, so you are not always sure that the information is valid
• rise with the birds – the best time to spot game is as the camp gates open in the morning as animals are more active
• hide out at waterholes – particularly at midday or sundown, waterholes are guaranteed to receive a visit at some stage of the day, as animals need water
• winter is best – the driest time of the year is best to spot game as they're more active and the bush is not as lush as it gets in summer
• go on night drives
• buy a copy of Andy and Lorrain Tinker's Kruger National Park Guide – awesome guidelines, hot spots, maps and photos

The Limpopo National Park

One can travel from Kruger straight into the Limpopo National Park via the gate at Giriyondo, which acts as a border post. You will need a 4X4 vehicle to do this journey as the road deteriorates after a couple of hours from Giriyondo Gate en route to Massingir Gate.

Together with the Kruger and Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe, the Limpopo National Park forms the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park.

The Limpopo National Park is well worth a visit. It is still in the initial stages of development and whilst there are not a lot of camps, there is an overlander site with space for 10 camper vans, 20 individual campsites, 13 chalets and a luxury tented camp. They are all self-catering.

Kruger National Park Links

• Kruger National Park
• Kruger Park Hotels
• Kruger Park Accommodation
• Mpumalanga Accommodation

Southern Kruger

The southern region of the Kruger National Park lies between the Crocodile River to the south, the Sabie in the north and, in the east, the Lebombo Mountains. Nothing quite prepares you for the park's impact, the trees and hills an unexpected flavour to the picture I had of the bushveld as, well, flat (despite having gone to the Kruger as a child).

The southern region gets more rain during the year which translates into more game, shaded by the presence of the Cape chestnut, coral tree, lavender fever berry, and white pear.

This part is where one goes if the white rhino is high on your list of priorities. But it is also popular because it is more accessible for weekend trips from Nelspruit, Hoedspruit, White River etc. School holidays are thus something of a 'mare', making the south more people-dense than the northerly parts of the Kruger park.

Not to be deterred, we decided to go anyway. We also left our booking until a few weeks before visiting the park, and still managed to bag a bungalow in three of the southern Kruger rest camps (only possible because we were flexible). If you're after the river-side cottages at Skukuza, for instance, (definitely the best spot in the camp) you'd do well to book about a year in advance.

Quick overview of the southern rest camps in Kruger:

Berg-en-Dal – southernmost camp in amongst hills, great for rhinos, wild dog,  and lion
Crocodile Bridge – weeny camp virtually at entrance, not bad for wild dog and cheetah
Skukuza – busy, popular and large camp on the Sabie River, great for birds, leopard, hyena, caracal, wild cat and hippo
Lower Sabie – large camp also on Sabie River, good for birds and general game
Pretoriuskop – one of the oldest camps and quieter, great for antelope, birds, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino

I soon learnt, after the first night, not to expect B&B standards from Kruger's rest camps. They are great for their position and access to game. They are not hotels and one should not expect hotel standards, despite the prices. Don't rely on the shops and restaurants for food either. They are average and really expensive. What you get for your money is clean linen, access to facilities and a place to lay your head.

Our first two hours in the park were undoubtedly our best. Entering via the gate at Malelane fairly late in the morning (not regarded as a good time for spotting game), we saw two herds of elephant right up on the road in succession, buffalo (again on the road), and rhino all within a couple of circular loops close to the gate, as our first night was Berg-en-Dal.

Right at the gate were a couple of waterbuck and a gazillion crocs, all so sun-soaked that the proximity of healthy looking buck obviously did not tantalise. Nevertheless, we remained on the bridge for a while to see if there would be any action.

The rhino we saw was admittedly out of the corner of my eye. We were obviously the last straw in a series of unnerving events for the chap who literally saw red when our borrowed silver Fortuna ambled by. I had time to say 'put foot'!before he flattened us, or at least that was how it looked to me. Not even when we plucked up the courage to backtrack slowly could we see him though. I'm still having trouble convincing my family there was a rhino at all...

Photographs — Left: Berg-en-Dal / Right: Berg-en-Dal Dam

First night – Berg-en-Dal

Berg-en-Dal is probably the prettiest camp of the three. Despite the fact that one of the hot plates on our two-plate stove did not work, and any attempt to use the toaster meant that we lost our connection to electricity completely, the thatched, brick bungalows are quiet and cleverly designed so that a bathroom, kitchen and bedroom easily fit. Private verandas and a braai area finish it off. Set in amongst the trees the camp lies on the bank of the Matjulu Spruit in amongst a series of hills with a dam on the border of the camp, at which you can sit and watch the odd bird or buck come to drink. We stayed in a bungalow but there is also a campsite, family cottages and a couple of guesthouses.

You get: crockery, cutlery, linen, hotplate, toaster, kettle and fridge
Our verdict: quaint, pretty, quiet, the best of the lot, but needs a bit of TLC

Photographs — Left: Skukuza / Right: Bungalow at Skukuza bungalow with kitchen

Second night — Skukuza

Skukuza buzzes. It is busy at whatever time of year mainly because it is the administrative headquarters of the Kruger, but also because it is large. Accommodation varies from lovely chalets downriver from the shop and restaurant on the banks of the Sabie, to two-and-three-bed bungalows with en suite bathrooms, but minus a kitchen (these are communal and outside), which does make a long-term stay here rather uncomfortable, but it's fine for overnight (if you do not mind having to re-wash all your crockery and cutlery because the people before you obviously left at dawn and must have used the hand basin as a washing alternative – minus soap). There are also safari tents and a campsite. The highlight of Skukuza is the waterside/restaurant area under a canopy of trees, the views over the river, and the access to game. Wildlife at Skukuza is probably of the best. Hippo are both audible and visible, particularly at night but also during the day when we were there (June), which I found surprising.

What you get in a bungalow: crockery, cutlery, a fridge, 2/3 beds, linen
Our verdict: escaping the hordes is difficult, definitely worth booking ahead of time to nab one of the riverside chalets (big enough to share amongst a couple of families), not sure that I'd stay in the bungalows again, and watch out for monkeys in the camp

Photographs — Left: Lower Sabie bungalows / Right: Tents at Lower Sabie

Third night – Lower Sabie

One of the most popular camps in Kruger. We arrived earlier than anticipated and took a walk around their obviously newer tented safari style accommodation and tried to do a swop. This part of Lower Sabie lies on the opposite side of the rather snazy, raised restaurant area on the banks of the Sabie, to the older bungalows and campsite. It looks lovely and a wonderful way to stay in Kruger. Our bungalow, when we finally got the keys (you can't book in much before 2pm) was a lot better than anticipated. We ended up in a 3-bed bungalow with a sizeable bathroom and kitchenette. Like Skukuza, there are wonderful trees and a grassy area that leads down to the Sabie River. If you avoid the humming restaurant and are far enough from the campsite, your visit is calm and peaceful.

What you get in a bungalow: crockery, cutlery, linen, hotplate, toaster, kettle and fridge
Our verdict: restaurant area has beautiful views over the river though very busy, try and stay in riverside chalets or tented safari tents

Hotspots for viewing game in the southern Kruger:

• Lake Panic hide, on the H11 to Skukuza from Paul Kruger Gate
• Mlondozi Dam hide on the S29 near Lower Sabie
• Mathekenyane 'Granokop' 10km from Skukuza on the H1-1
• Renosterpan on H-3 from Malelane Gate to Traders Rest (takeaway shop en route)
• Nyamundwa Dam between Phabeni Gate and Skukuza on S1
• Sunset Dam outside Lower Sabie on H4-1

Tips:

• A must-buy: Andy and Lorrain Tinker's Kruger National Park Guide and Map, available from most of the shops in the rest camps
• Remember that the speed limit is 50 km/hour and covering the distance between camps takes longer than you think
• Drive slowly to spot game, and do shorter drives with stops at dams, hides and rest camps
• Andy and Lorrain Tinker recommend the following route in southern Kruger: from Skukuza to Berg-en-Dal, Crocodile Bridge, lower Sabie and back
• When busy, stick to the dirt roads, most people tend to drive the tar roads

Kruger Park Links

• Kruger National Park
• Kruger Park Hotels
• Kruger Park Accommodation
• Mpumalanga Accommodation

Sanbona Safari

As any born-and-bred Capetonian will tell you, one of the few things we envy of the city slickers in Joburg, is their ability to hop into a car and head off to the Kruger Park (at a moment’s notice) for a quick respite from the daily grind of city living. It’s taken me 32 years to find the Cape Town equivalent … enter Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, a true Big 5 game experience, just 3 and a half hours drive from Cape Town (on the very scenic Route 62) – a perfect weekend getaway for wildlife enthusiasts.

We arrived at the main gate on Friday afternoon after an easy drive – we left Cape Town early, avoiding any weekend traffic – and what a difference it makes not having to fly, no stress or long waits at the airport. Just 5 minutes after signing in, we were en-route to the lodge and I was rewarded with my first ever Black-Backed Jackal sighting. Off to a good start! And it only got better.

5 Star Luxury

Dwyka Tented Lodge

Dwyka Tented Lodge, our home for the next few days, exceeded every expectation. The service is unrivalled – you are treated simultaneously like royalty and a member of their family – the lodge is at-one-with-nature, cradled by rugged rock formations, and luxurious to a fault, the tented chalets are private and secluded – with no cell phone reception and no television, and a private plunge pool and bathtub big enough for two, a more restful and romantic setting cannot be imagined. Also see: Photo Post — Dwyka Lodge (coming soon)

We were treated to a tour of the other lodges and there really is something for everyone at Sanbona. Godwana Lodge is perfect for families, with a “Kids on Safari” program and a magical playroom to keep the children entertained. Tilney Manor is the original farmhouse which has been lovingly restored and is the epitomy of Colonial charm and luxury. Whichever lodge you choose, the attention to detail and the luxuries which abound, make for an unforgettable stay.

A Tip: Each lodge has its own Relaxation Retreat and there can be no more decadent way to fill the hours between game drives than with twin treatments at the spa. I can thoroughly recommend the Karoo Delight (a one hour massage)!

A Wild Vision

Gemsbok

The name Sanbona is apt – ‘San’ for the San people that lived in the Klein Karoo hundreds of years ago and ‘bona’ which means vision in their language. What better word to encompass the goals and wonder that is Sanbona Wildlife Reserve – a magnificent sight and a magnificent plan. Sanbona is an inspiration – a conservation success story and a dream realised. Driving through the reserve it is not immediately apparent that the 54000 hectares comprises reclaimed farmland, instead fynbos, thicket and Karoo succulents abound, a diverse habitat supporting indigenous wildlife, which have been carefully reintroduced to the area. Indigenous is the key here, Giraffe were introduced only after San rock art depicting these animals was found. You won’t find Impala or Warthog, but you may be lucky enough to see Gemsbok (a desert-dwelling Antelope, that you won’t find in Kruger) or the critically endangered Riverine Rabbit (on a night drive if you’re lucky, they’re nocturnal) and the Big 5 – lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, buffalo – have all been reintroduced successfully.

GAME DRIVE HIGHLIGHTS

Elephant

On our first game drive, we spotted a White Lioness and her two cubs, lazing near the carcass they’d been feasting on since the previous Sunday. Sanbona is unique – it is the only reserve in the world in which White Lion roam free and are self-sustaining. No mean feat when you stick out like a sore thumb (their tawny counterparts have a much easier time hunting, as they are better camouflaged), but that made it much easier for us to find them. Our game ranger explained that White Lion are not a different species, their colour is a recessive gene. See more at: Photo Post — White Lion (coming soon)

The highlight of our second game drive was undoubtedly the elephant herd we came across, after spotting what we thought were two lone juvenile bulls. Before we knew it another bull emerged and a few minutes later, as if from out of nowhere, 6 more Elephant appeared from behind a thicket of trees — the matriarch and her calf (too cute), another cow and 3 youngsters. But it was the bull that had our full attention, as he came right up to our game vehicle. This big boy is only 2 years old and already towered over the landrover. See more at: Photo Post – Elephant Herd (coming soon)

Our third game drive is one that I will never forget. We had an up-close-and-personal encounter with Cheetahs, thanks to our wonderful game ranger Rudi. Find out more about this once in a lifetime experience at: Really Close – A Cheetah Approach

Sanbona is a haven I will return to time and time again, to recharge and feel at one with nature, to put life back into perspective and to marvel at the magnificence of our untamed wildlife heritage.
So if, like me, you’ve been coveting the wild weekends that seem so easy for “Vaalies” – hop into your car and rediscover nature at Sanbona – you can contact Reservations on 041 407‑1000 or visit Sanbona Wildife Reserve for more details.

View some of our favourite pho­to­s in our Flickr Gallery

Suggestion: Click on "full screen" mode to really experience the grandeur of Sanbona Wildlife Reserve.

Useful Links

• Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
• Western Cape Wildlife Reserves
• South Africa Wildlife Reserves
• South Africa Hotels

“Stay close,” a reminder. “They’ll let us know once we’re close enough.”

And I’m thinking, how exactly are they going to do that? And with that we’re off, walking in single file, in a zig-zag pattern towards them and talking loudly, so they know we’re coming – in  Rudi’s opinion the safest way to approach them. Humans are the super-predator in the wild (at least by day), so the zig-zagging lets them know we’re just passing by … a beeline for them would signal intent: that’s how predators stalk their prey.

“We may get closer than you feel comfortable with,” he says, “just let me know if you want to stop.”

I’m thinking, maybe 20 metres away. By ten metres I feel a nervous laugh building up and squish it pronto. Eight metres away and the larger Cheetah lays his head down on the floor, like he’s bored with watching our approach and would rather sleep. We stop at around five metres. I’m obsessively thinking about the fact that I’m the shortest of the three of us and the most likely target, should they decide it’s lunch time.

These two males are absolutely huge and in pristine condition. Not the mangy, scrawny looking cheetah I’ve seen in documentaries on National Geographic. Sanbona is home to eleven Cheetah — one female with two cubs, another female with five cubs and these two males, who hunt together, and very successfully, by the look of them. I understand the warning about them being wild animals, it’s easy to forget how dangerous they are, as you watch them licking each other, curled up on the sun-warmed earth.

“Is it safe to take some pictures?”
“Absolutely,” says Rudi, “I’m going to go a little closer and take some too.”

As I snap away, he edges closer, and closer still, and with just another three steps – the “signal” that we’d come too close: one of the males jumps up and circles away from us, with his brother fast on his heels. They don’t seem too concerned, just fed up with our intrusion, as they slink off in search of a more peaceful spot.

“You see the prominent white tip on their tails, that’s how you can tell they’re males from a distance. Only way to tell unless you’re really close.”

View all of the photographs in our Flickr Gallery

Suggestion: Click on "full screen" mode for an up-close-and-personal encounter with these beautiful boys.

Useful Links

• Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
• Montagu Attractions
• Things to Do in Montagu
• Montagu Hotels
• Montagu Accommodation

Cameron, who matriculated in 2004 from King Edward VII School, Johannesburg, is well qualified in the guiding field with full FGASA level 3, full Trails Guide Mentor, Track & Sign level 3 and Tracker level 1. At Lion Sands he spent nearly a year conducting open-vehicle safaris and bush walks in a Big 5 area. He left to join Sabi Sabi as Senior Ranger, then Assistant Head Ranger and finally Assistant Lodge Manager. His experience there included organising guide training and assessments. During the two and a half years at Lion Sands, he was also involved in habitat and reserve management.

At Kapama Private Game Reserve, Cameron was head ranger, managing a team of nine rangers and trackers. Cameron joins a team of six experienced guides at Tswalu all of whom have FGASA Level 3 Trails Guide Qualifications making Tswalu Kalahari's guiding team probably the most qualified in the country.

The SA-Venues.com Team wish Cameron well in his new position!

Useful Links:

• Tswalu Kalahari
• Northern Cape Game Reserves
• South Africa Game Reserves

Marakele National Park

There’s a reason why so many foreign films are shot in South Africa. It’s not just the readily available local skills and the cheaper prices – it’s also because of the location. Very few places in the world offer such diverse locations in one place. The Marakele National Park, in the Limpopo Province is an example of a filmmakers’ dream. Situated in the Waterberg mountain range, its distinct landscape offers every from ragged mountains to lavish grasslands and deep valleys. You could probably shoot a fantasy epic like Lord of the Rings there and never have to leave.

The Marakele National Park lies on the meeting point of the dry western climate and the moister eastern regions, it is no surprise that flora and fauna flourish here. Among the mixed bushveld, there are rare cycads, yellowwood and cedar trees, all of which make for a luxurious vista. Established in 1986 it was originally known as the Kransberg Nature Reserve, until Marakele took its place. Meaning “place of sanctuary” in Tswana, this is an apt description, considering the park is home to an abundance of bird and wildlife species.

Marakele National Park

Marakele is home to the world-renowned “big five” making it a perfect destination for tourists. Apart from the bigger animals, there are also 16 species of antelope, some of which are Eland, Kudu, Impala and Waterbuck. Along with ferocious cats such as leopards and lions, the park is also home to many scavengers. The most famous of these is the Cape Griffin Vulture. Marakele has the second largest colony of these birds with more than 800 breeding pairs, making it a haven for bird watchers. Be sure to drive up to the Sentech Towers and get up close and personal with these amazing birds.

There are also 250 other bird species such as the Jackal Buzzard, the African Hawk and the Orange-breasted Bush Shrike. Elephants, White and Black Rhinos as well as brown backed hyenas and buffalos are just a few of the many species that Marakele has on offer. The park is also home to Chacma baboons and Vervet monkeys, pesky critters who are incredibly mischievous so be sure to lock your food away.

Marakele has two main camping sites: Tlopi and Bontle. Tlopi is named after the Tlopi River, which has Motlopi (or Witgat) trees growing along its banks. The Tlopi campsite is unfenced and is made up of 10 large safari tents. Each tent has a bedroom, private bathroom and fully equipped kitchen with electricity. There is a raised veranda about two metres above the ground with spectacular views across the vista, so you can sit on the deck and enjoy a braai as the sun goes down.

Marakele National Park

If you prefer something a little more rustic, then try the Bontle campsite. Situated in the southern part of the park it has 38 campsites and a communal ablution block. More communal it offers you a chance to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life and enjoy the simple pleasures of camping. Just be sure to bring insect repellent!

For those who enjoy a more luxurious lifestyle there is also the Marataba Safari Group.  This lavish lodge is built of indigenous stone, timber, sand and soil. Many of the walls are glass so you can enjoy the vast expanse of the wilderness around you, while still being in the comfort of luxury. Enjoy a cocktail at the bar, read a book in the library, or relax by the pool on a hot day. Try the gourmet food with original African flavours either in the dining room, outside on the veranda, or if you’re feeling adventurous under the stars.

Known for it’s more basic and rustic appeal, Marakele National Park is perfect for those who really want to be part of nature. Sunset drives and morning bushwalks are a must for those who want to spot some wildlife.

View the slideshow courtesy of Flickr.com:

Useful Links:
Marakele National Park
Waterberg Accommodation
Waterberg Attractions
Things to Do in Waterberg

Madikwe Game Reserve

Game reserves, like dark chocolate covered strawberries, are one of those things that you just can’t get enough of. Millions of years of human evolution have designed us to naturally prefer the great outdoors to an office cubicle. Who can argue with that?

The Madikwe game reserve covers 75,000 hectares making it one of South Africa’s largest. The Madikwe Game Reserve showcases Africa at its finest. Immense plains of open woodlands and grasslands, the jagged Rant van Tweedepoort, the dramatic Dwarsberg Mountain as well as haphazardly placed inselbergs, all make for awe inspiring scenery. Throw in the Big Five and this destination is every tourists dream. Located against the Botswana border, north of the small town Groot Marico.

Before the Madikwe Game Reserve, the area was desolate, with derelict buildings and alien vegetation. It was 1991 when Operation Phoenix began and everything changed. Operation Phoenix was the world’s biggest translocation exercise and it took a period of six years to move eight thousand animals of 27 major species to Madikwe.

Madikwe Game Reserve

These included the big five and other endangered species such as the wild dog, spotted hyena and cheetah. Operation Phoenix was completed in 1997 and today Madikwe is home to over 12, 000 animals, which include all predator species as well as black and white rhinoceros, buffalo, giraffe, zebra and antelope. The 350 bird species make it an ideal spot for bird watching also.

Madikwe Game Reserve is a haven for game viewing so make the most of it by enjoying an open vehicle day or night drive. Well-trained and informative rangers will accompany you and their invaluable insight will be of use in interpreting the many animal encounters that will occur. For the hiking enthusiasts bush walks are another option and are conducted daily. Along your journey you are likely to find the Batswana people, a group of natives who live in the Reserve. Their handmade jewellery, curios and works of art are on sale and make for great mementos.

Madikwe Game Reserve

The region is steeped in history and a range of explorers, traders, hunters and missionaries passed through. These included Dr David Livingstone and Sir Cornwallis Harris. History buffs should check out Abjaterskop in the south-western corner of the reserve as famous South African author Herman Charles Bosman taught a school there.

Financed by the State and the private sector, the surrounding local communities also benefit from the reserve as they are given an annual share of the park’s profits. With this money they are able to upgrade their own infrastructure, making this approach a very successful one.

There are various private lodges in the Reserve, most of them offering vehicle safaris and bush walks so be sure to check out either the Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge or the Impodimo Game Lodge. Located at a key site in the west of the Madikwe Game Reseve, Buffalo Ridge Lodge has it all with a spectacular location and lavish accommodation.

Madikwe Game Reserve

Each one of the eight suites is uniquely decorated and has its own deck facing north allowing guests to enjoy the extensive views. Impodimo Game Lodge, consisting of eight glass fronted luxury chalets, lines a natural spring. Each chalet allows for striking views either from inside of from the outdoor shower. Suitable in Summer or Winter one can either laze around the pool or enjoy a cognac in the library.

Useful Madikwe Links:
Madikwe Game Reserve
Madikwe Photographs
Madikwe Accommodation
South Africa Game Reserves

According to The Field Guides Association of Southern Africa (FGASA), which provides educational opportunities to promote the conservation and rehabilitation of the cultural and natural heritage of Southern Africa, the knowledge and insight expected at Level 3 is unlikely to be obtained without at least two years of active guiding in the field.  “A general distinction between the competence at this level as opposed to lower levels is the ability to explain phenomena by means of valid and well-motivated scientific theories and the concomitant use of appropriate scientific terminology.”

Russel Binks, said that he is extremely proud of the team which is now amongst the most qualified in the industry. “We are privileged to have such a professional, committed field guiding team. Their knowledge and inspiration is vital to both our guests’ Tswalu experience and our conservation vision of restoring the Kalahari to itself.”

Adrian Bantich, Jo Neytzell de Wilde, Christo de Jager, and Richard Visser all work under head ranger Marco Tonoli, who started his guiding career in KwaZulu Natal at the St Lucia wetlands, having travelled extensively in Europe and the Middle East. The desire to explore took him to reserves across the sub-continent, where he worked as an overland guide through Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, and South Africa.

In 2005 Marco settled at the Sabi Sabi private Game Reserve, where he worked his way up to senior ranger responsible for training. In 2007 Marco left guiding to realise another dream and study wildlife documentary film-making in Cape Town. He became a skilled film–maker, collaborating on major documentaries and working behind and in front of the camera as director, cameraman, and presenter for Wild Earth TV.

He joined Tswalu in 2008, where he now leads what is arguably the finest team of field guides in the country, all experts in this unique eco-system. His personal passions includes astronomy, botany and the medical use of plants

“Tswalu, with over 100 000 hectares of unspoilt Kalahari Desert, is a guide’s dreamland,” says Marco. “Here guides have to use years of experience to traverse, explore and track down what they are looking for. We have an elite team of guides, with over 40 years of collective guiding experience.

“There are few places left in the world where you can spend the day tracking a Desert Black Rhino, climb a mountain to ancient Rock Art, finish off with a picnic next to a waterhole and not see another person the entire time. Tswalu is one of those places. There is no rush, no deadlines and definitely no traffic. Instead there is the peace and freedom to explore, at the pace that our guests choose, in a wilderness that does not bear the scar of man’s presence.

About Tswalu: Tswalu Kalahari is owned by the Oppenheimer family, and covers an area of over 100,000 hectares. It offers a unique malaria-free game viewing experience with some of South Africa’s rarest and most extraordinary wildlife, including desert black rhino, black-maned Kalahari lions, cheetah, rare antelope such as roan, sable and tsessebe, and 230 species of birds, including endangered raptors.

The word ‘Tswalu means ‘a new beginning’ and Tswalu Kalahari is driven by two ambitions: to create an inspirational experience for its guests, and to realise Nicky Oppenheimer’s conservation vision of restoring the Kalahari to itself. These two goals sit in perfect equilibrium; each guest contributes directly to the sustainability of the reserve in a true model of eco-tourism.

A visit to Tswalu is a unique experience. A dedicated complement of field guides and butlers allows guests to choose how they would like to spend their day – from breakfast in-suite, to a leisurely spa treatment on their private deck overlooking the magnificent landscape of the Kalahari with its dunes and grasslands. The experience includes game drives, a private gourmet safari picnic and a visit to see the ancient engravings of the San (Bushmen) whose ancestral home is the Kalahari.

Tswalu caters for a maximum of only 30 guests at a time, and welcome families. At Tswalu, children are actively encouraged to participate fully in the safari experience.

For more information about Tswalu see:
Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

Tswalu Reviews:

Review by: Fabio Rocchi, Verona : excellent meals, great game drives and wonderful lodges. HIGHLY Recommended.

Review by: Kelly & Brent, New York, USA : This was probably the most fantastic experience of our entire South African trip. The service, the surroundings, the lodges, the game drives — everything was of the best standards and we loved every minute.

Useful Links:
Kalahari Attractions
Northern Cape Attractions
Northern Cape Accommodation
South Africa's Game Reserves

Tswalu Kalahari

Lead singer of the Irish rock band U2, Bono and his wife Ali Hewson, were guests of Tswalu Kalahari, South Africa’s largest privately owned game reserve, earlier this year when they were photographed by Annie Liebovitz, the world’s most celebrated portrait photographer, for the Louis Vuitton Core Values Campaign, which over the years has featured various personalities with “extraordinary stature”.

It is the first advertising campaign that the couple has featured in and appears in the October 2010 issues of international titles.

Louis Vuitton has established itself as one of the world’s leading fashion houses ...

Managing Director, Russel Binks says that Tswalu was the perfect location for the shoot.  “Moreover, the two brands complement each other perfectly.”

Tswalu Kalahari is owned by the Oppenheimer family, and covers an area of over 100,000 hectares.  It offers a unique malaria-free game viewing experience with some of South Africa’s rarest and most extraordinary wildlife, including desert black rhino, black-maned Kalahari lions, cheetah, rare antelope such as roan, sable and tsessebe, and 230 species of birds, including endangered raptors.

“The lodge is exclusive and private and Bono and Ali were able to relax here in total seclusion,” says Binks. “The word ‘Tswalu means ‘a new beginning’ and Tswalu Kalahari is driven by two ambitions: to create an inspirational experience for its guests, and to realise Nicky Oppenheimer’s conservation vision of restoring the Kalahari to itself. These two goals sit in perfect equilibrium; each guest contributes directly to the sustainability of the reserve in a true model of eco-tourism.”

Photograph: Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa

A visit to Tswalu is a unique experience. A dedicated complement of field guides and butlers allows guests to choose how they would like to spend their day – from breakfast in-suite, to a leisurely spa treatment on their private deck overlooking the magnificent landscape of the Kalahari with its dunes and grasslands. The experience includes leisurely game drives, a private gourmet safari picnic and a visit to see the ancient engravings of the San (Bushmen) whose ancestral home is the Kalahari.

Tswalu caters for a maximum of only 30 guests at a time, and welcome families. Children are actively encouraged to participate fully in the safari experience.

For more information about Tswalu see:
Tswalu Kalahari Reserve or www.tswalu.com

Useful Links:
Kalahari Attractions
Northern Cape Attractions
Northern Cape Accommodation

Tenikwa Wildlife

One of those difficult to spot species in the bush is the cats, or to be more specific, those ever elusive leopard and cheetah. So paying a visit to the Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre, just outside Plettenberg Bay is a privilege to which I am looking forward.

Having been relieved of my handbag (one can only carry cameras into the enclosures), we embarked upon our one-hour tour at 09h30, with our two little boys in hand. The centre is open from 09h00 and tours depart every half hour to 16h30. Our first stop appeared to be the good old domestic cat, only on a far grander scale, and can weigh up to 6.5kg. The African Wild cat is seldom seen and is the ancestor of our domestic cats. They were domesticated some 10,000 years ago, although others believe the Egyptians domesticated them around 4000 years ago, and are often depicted in Egyptian art.

This cat however, did not provide enough excitement for two young boys, so it was onto the leopard enclosure, where we were advised to pick up our boys, who might have made easy prey for ZweLakhe! The leopard was not keen to stick around and quickly retreated into the undergrowth, but we certainly had an opportunity to witness his unique rosette-shaped ‘spots’.

The boys were able to be lowered in the serval enclosure; a cat I had never seen and which had a wonderful combination of spots and stripes. It is somewhat smaller than the leopard but larger than the African wild cat, with ears that to me almost resembled a bat-eared fox. These protuberances make for an excellent sense of hearing and the serval can reach a speed of up to 80km per hour.

The caracal, a relative of the serval, was of a similar size, with characteristic ear tufts. These members of the cat family are often hunted because of their livestock predation, being capable according to our guide, to kill up to ten sheep in one night! Clearly they hunt for sport rather than food alone.

Our last stop was the home of two frisky young cheetahs, whom our guide certainly did not trust, urging us to once again carry the boys. However the cheetahs were in a docile mood and allowed us up close, although the male certainly kept a beady eye on my youngest! Both children remarked on how evident the “black stripe under each eye” was, courtesy of our Beautiful Creatures cds!

Tenikwa Wildlife Centre is run by Len and Mandy Freeman, who began running the Tenikwa Rehabilitation Centre in 2003. Since 2007, the income from the Wildlife Centre has served to fund the Rehabilitation Centre. Although I did not meet Len and Mandy, their commitment and purpose are evident through the way in which the centre is run, and the knowledge and professionalism of the staff. Tenikwa also runs a Transport for Awareness programme, which sees members of the local community transported to the centre, so that they can learn about wildlife and the environment.

Aside from the one hour guided tour, there are also sunrise and sunset cheetah walks available at 07h30 and 16h30 respectively, which may be combined with the one hour tour.

Contact & Other Details:
Address: Forest Hall Road, The Crags, Plettenberg Bay, Garden Route.
Telephone: +27 (0)44 534‑8170
Opening hours: Daily. Tours depart every half an hour from 09h00, with the last tour leaving at 16h30.

Plettenberg Bay Links:
Plettenberg Bay Attractions
Things to Do in Plettenberg Bay
Plettenberg Bay Accommodation
Garden Route Accommodation

Kruger National Park

From Monday to Friday this week (13 to 17 September 2010), all South Africans can spend a day at one of South Africa's glorious national parks without paying an entry fee — thanks to the "Know Your National Parks" campaign.

South African National Parks board (SANParks) will allow all South Africans with valid ID documents to enter any park managed by it, completely free of charge (three parks are excluded from this freebie deal, they are Boulders in the Table Mountain National Park, Tankwa Karoo and Namaqua national park and includes entrance fees, not accommodation or other commercial activities within the parks like safaris and activities).

According to SANParks' general manager of media relations, Reynold Thakhuli, the campaign's objective is to cultivate a culture of pride in all South Africans with regards to the country's natural, cultural and historical heritage. "The idea of a national parks focus week was conceived in 2006, after we realised that a vast majority of South Africans was not accessing the national parks. SANParks then embarked on this campaign to encourage all South Africans, especially those from the communities around the parks, to share in what we envision to be the pride and joy of all South Africans and the world," says Thakuli. (source: Bua News)

The South Africa's National Parks you can visit for free this week include:

Addo Elephant Park

In the Eastern Cape:
Addo Elephant Park — Situated in a malaria free area just one hour's drive from the South African coastal city of Port Elizabeth, the magnificently diverse Addo Elephant Park offers a wide variety of game viewing, outdoor adventure, accommodation and cultural experiences. You will be amazed at the variety of South Africa Wildlife that can be experienced in one easily accessible destination ... see more about Addo Elephant National Park.

Camdeboo National Park — Formed hundreds of millions of years ago, the Karoo of South Africa is one of the great natural wonders of the world. Camdeboo National Park provides the visitor with insights into the unique landscape and ecosystem of the Karoo as well as splendid scenic beauty. The greater portion of the Camdeboo National park is situated between ... see more about Camdeboo National Park.

Mountain Zebra National Park — The craggy heights of the park's Bankberg embrace rolling plains and deep valleys, and has become an entrancing preserve for the Cape mountain zebra. The proclamation of the park in 1937 saved these animals from extinction. Other mammals found in the park include eland, black wildebeest, red hartebeest and gemsbok, whilst caracal are the primary predator ... see more about Mountain Zebra National Park.

Agulhas National Park

In the Western Cape:
Agulhas National Park — Lying in what is known as the Agulhas Plain at the southernmost tip of Africa is the Agulhas National Park, just 45 kilometres from the popular village of Gansbaai. This might be the meeting place of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, but the park’s focus is on some of the most splendid examples of lowland fynbos and lowland fynbos on limestone soils — considered endangered ... see more about Agulhas National Park.

Bontebok National Park — Sheltered by the Langeberg Mountains and bordered to the south by the Breede River, the Bontebok National Park provides a refuge for not only bontebok, but also for other species such as the Cape mountain zebra, red hartebeest and grey rhebok. The park is situated within the Cape Floral Kingdom, the smallest, but richest of the world's six floral kingdoms ... see more about Bontebok National Park.

Karoo National Park — The Karoo National Park has a wide variety of endemic wildlife. Many species have been relocated to their former ranges, such as black rhino and buffalo, as well as Cape mountain zebra. Over 20 breeding pairs of black eagle find sanctuary within the Karoo National park. There is also a wide diversity of succulent plants and small reptiles. The park is situated close to the N1 ... see more about Karoo National Park.

Garden Route National Park — The new Garden Route National Park, established by SANParks and also known as GRNP, spans an impressive 121 000 hectares and includes the existing Wilderness and Tsitsikamma national parks, the Knysna Lakes area and roughly 52 000 hectares of newly proclaimed land. Still regarded as 'new' the GRNP was only gazetted in March 2009 and is part of a long-term plan ... see more about Garden Route National Park.

Table Mountain National Park — (Free entrance excludes Boulders!) At the south-western tip of South Africa, the Table Mountain National Park encompasses the incredibly scenic Peninsula mountain chain stretching from Signal Hill in the north to Cape Point in the south, a distance of approximately 60 km. The narrow portion of land with its many beautiful valleys, bays and beaches is circled by the waters of ... see more about Table Mountain National Park.

West Coast National Park — Just inland from the secluded harbour of Saldanha one finds the azure waters of the Langebaan Lagoon, focal point of the West Coast National Park. Thousands of seabirds roost on sheltered islands, pristine golden beaches stretch endlessly into the early morning mist and brooding salt marshes are home to vast concentrations of migrant waders ... see more about West Coast National Park.

Augrabies National Park

In the Northern Cape:
Augrabies Falls National Park — The Khoi people called it 'Aukoerebis', the place of the Great Noise, referring to the Orange River thundering its way downwards for 60 metres in a spectacular waterfall. Picturesque names such as Moon Rock, Ararat and Echo Corner are descriptive of this rocky region, characterised by the 18 kilometre abyss of the Orange River Gorge and craggy outcrops ... see more about Augrabies Falls National Park.

Kgalagadi Transfontier Park — Africa's first formally declared trans-border conservation area, the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, on the border of South Africa and Botswana, was officially launched on May 12, 2000 by then South African President Thabo Mbeki and Botswana President Festus Mogae. The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is situated approximately 250 km from Upington ... see more about Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Mokala National Park — Mokala is one of South Africa’s newer National Parks, situated approximately 80km south-southwest of Kimberley, and west of the N12 freeway to Cape Town. Nestled in the hills, Mokala's landscape boasts a variety of koppieveld (hills) and large open plains. The isolated dolerite hills give the place a calming feeling of seclusion. A big surprise awaits when you pass through the ... see more about Mokala National Park.

Richtersveld Transfrontier National Park — Proclaimed in 1991 after 18 years of negotiation between the National Park Board and the local Nama people, the park is now managed jointly by the local Nama people and the South African Parks board. The Nama people, who lease the land to the board, continue to live and graze their livestock in the area. This is a harsh and unpredictable land where ... see more about Richtersveld Transfrontier National Park.

In the Free State:
Golden Gate National Park — Nestled in the rolling foothills of the Maluti Mountains of the north-eastern Free State lies the Golden Gate Highlands National Park. The park derives its name from the brilliant shades of gold cast by the sun on the park's sandstone cliffs, especially the imposing Brandwag rock, keeping vigil over the main rest camp. This 11 600 hectares of unique environment is true highland habitat  ... see more about Golden Gate National Park.

Kruger National Park

In Mpumalanga / Limpopo:
Kruger National Park — Lying in the heart of the Lowveld is a wildlife sanctuary like no other, its atmosphere so unique that it allows those who enter its vastness to immerse themselves in the unpredictability and endless wilderness that is the true quality of Africa. Nearly 2 million hectares of land that stretch for 352 kilometres (20 000 square kilometres) from north to south along the Mozambique ... see more about Kruger National Park.

In Limpopo:
Mapungubwe National Park — An extensive savannah landscape situated at the meeting place of the Limpopo and Shashe rivers, this is the land of sandstone formations, mopane woodlands, brooding baobabs, ancient floodplains and unique riverine forests that form a dramatic backcloth for the wealth of animal life — elephant, giraffe, buffalo, white rhino, gemsbok and other antelope, extensive bird life, and ... see more about Mapungubwe National Park.

Marakele National Park — The Marakele National Park in the heart of the Waterberg Mountains has become a 'place of sanctuary' for a vast variety of wildlife mainly due to its location in the transitional zone between the dry western and moist eastern regions of South Africa. The Marakele National Park is characterised by contrasting majestic mountain landscapes, grass-clad hills and deep valleys ... see more about Marakele National Park.

So what are you waiting for? If you haven't yet been to your local national park, this is the week to do it. Take a days leave from work, pack up your family and head off to one of the National Parks in your province and enjoy another of the reasons we call ourselves "Proudy South African"!

Please Note:
The Children younger than 16 will be allowed free access without having an ID document.
Free access does not include any of the commercial activities in the parks, such as guided safaris or walks.

For more information, visit www.sanparks.org.

Useful Links:
South Africa Game Reserves
South Africa's Attractions
South Africa Accommodation

Turns out the main characters in this adventure (a group of friends and myself) spent our time exploring and relaxing for our lives. The long extinct volcano crater in question is now home to the Pilanesberg Game reserve and was well worth the visions of disaster ...

The Pilanesberg Game Reserve is situated in South Africa's North West Province and is one of the largest game parks in South Africa. With 50 000 hectares of unspoiled flora and fauna, the Pilanesberg Game Reserve offers a viable alternative to the other large game parks in the country.

With robust populations of buffalo, elephant, leopard, white rhino and lion, you can be sure that you'll get your fill of game viewing during your stay. We had some truly remarkable close encounters of the wild kind and managed to see everything that was on our viewing list.

The Mankwe Dam offers an excellent opportunity to view game, but it can be overpopulated with tourists who seem more interested in eating and chatting than actually seeing any of the natural beauty. It's best to pick a hide, the name for the viewing posts situated around the dam, and take your time to appreciate some of the often missed beauty that the dam has to offer.

We did exactly that and were rewarded by great views of giraffe, zebra and antelope. One of the more interesting animals that we hadn't expected to see (everybody tends just to think about the Big 5 when they go game watching) was the brown hyena, shaggy dog-like creatures that are strangely cute in an ugly-with-jaws-that-can-break-bone kinda way.

In addition to game viewing there are plentiful hiking trails and excellent bird viewing, although I must admit we didn't get around to watching many creatures of the feathered variety. What we did do, however, was do some stargazing – the African sky offers some incredible stellar eye-candy and we were lucky enough to have a member of our group who knew the positions and names of the stars intimately. If you have the inclination, buy a star map of the Southern Hemisphere and see which constellations you can pick out.

Accommodation in the Pilanesberg is plentiful, with a huge selection of lodges and resorts catering to every possible wallet. We stayed in Bosele Camp, one of the more rustic options, but were entirely satisfied with the accommodation and service. There are several ultra luxurious options on offer, so even if you want to rough it during the day and luxuriate at night, that can be accommodated.

All in all we got away without any volcanic eruptions but with lots of photos and great memories of this beautiful piece of Africa.

Useful Pilanesberg Links:
Pilanesberg National Park
North West Province Game Reserves
Pilanesberg Accommodation
North West Province Accommodation

Beautiful Bonamanzi

We had family out from the USA over Christmas so arranged to spend two nights at Bonamanzi Game Park ... on safari!  I will be the first to admit that I’m not a big fan of the bush; I appreciate the beauty of it but let’s face it, the bush in mid summer when its 30 degrees at 5 in the morning is just not pleasant.  It’s especially not pleasant when the camp you are staying at does not have a swimming pool or air conditioning!

Bonamanzi however, is a breath of fresh air...

Located in Hluhluwe in the heart of Zululand, Bonamanzi is recognised as one of the best birding destinations in Southern Africa and although filled with game, the 4000 ha is not home to any predators, which enables guests to explore the bush safely.  There are various marked walks or you could hire a trained field guide to point out what makes the bush so special.

We stayed at the Tree Lodge – although strictly speaking not in the trees the Lodge is built on stilts giving a wonderful view over the veld.  The Lodge is made up of three double rooms each with bathroom en suite, a separate lounge / dining / kitchen area with a large deck overlooking a small waterhole.  There is also a braai area situated on the ground ‘level’.  Best of all is the air conditioning and it doesn’t end there, Tree Lodge is also equipped with DStv!  What more could a girl ask for on vacation?!

We had booked various activities which were all very reasonably priced.  On our first evening we went on a night drive but to be completely honest I fell asleep after 5 minutes in the Landie (must have been the fresh night air!).  Next on the agenda was the hour long horseback ride through the bush.  This I loved — my horse, Mr Brown was as calm as could be and just clopped along serenely.  Again, I’m not a big fan of the bush WALKS but I loved the view from Mr Browns back!  We had a guide with us and it really was just so different seeing the bush and game from a slightly higher level than normal.

Of course a trip to the bush would not be the same without the sunset booze cruise.  We were the only group to climb on board with a cooler box full of alcohol but it was the Silly Season after all!  This was a wonderful excursion – we started off with an hour long drive in the Landie and our guide, Bernie took her time stopping at various trees and plants to explain anything interesting about them.  The boat trip up the river was just as enjoyable – there is nothing better than sipping on an ice cold V&T while cruising up a river and appreciating how beautiful Zululand and the bush is!

I would highly recommend Bonamanzi – it just seemed to have the few added extras that other parks I’ve been too don’t have.  Although Tree Lodge didn’t have a swimming pool there was a lovely large pool nearby, complete with a number of picnic tables and a shaded area.  So we packed a few sandwiches and headed down to the pool for lunch – this makes a huge difference when it is so hot during the summer days and I guess with the park not having any predators and only a handful of elephant one is safe to explore and swim in peace!

If its Big 5 viewing you are after then the famous Hluhluwe Imfolozi National Park is only a short drive away.  We actually spent a few hours driving through this park before we arrived at Bonamanzi and saw a lot of game ... and could then check in to Bonamanzi with its aircon and DStv luxury.

I might just like the bush after all!!

Contact Details:
Bonamanzi Game Park
Address: Bushlands Road, Hluhluwe, KwaZulu Natal
Telephone: +27 (0)35 562‑0181 or +27 (0)82 872‑2174

Useful Hluhluwe Links:
Hluhluwe Attractions
Things to Do in Hluhluwe
Hluhluwe Hotels
Hluhluwe Accommodation

Leopard Encounter

Janet & John Wills from Porcupine Ridge Guest House in Sabie had this unexpected, heart-stopping encounter on a recent break in the Kruger National Park ...

At around 8.30am on 18 December 2009 my husband, our adult son and I, left Tamboti Tented Camp and drove east along the H7 towards Satara Camp. We soon came to the turning for N'wamatsatsa Waterhole and decided to check it out. Rounding a corner on the dirt road we saw two tiny leopard cubs running across the road with the mother leopard following closely behind. The cubs soon disappeared in the long grass, followed by the leopard. By the time they were about 5 metres from the road we had stopped parallel to them, expecting to see the leopard quickly disappear into the thick bush.

What happened next was the most frightening (and admittedly thrilling) encounter we have experienced in more than 20 years of regularly visiting Kruger ...The leopard suddenly turned and came running back towards us, snarling loudly. She stopped abruptly at the edge of the road, which we presume was a 'warning attack', thankfully giving us time to close all the car windows, she then rushed right up to the car, first to my husband at the driver's window, then round the front of the car to my front passenger window, snarling all the while and looking us straight in the eye with what can only be described as murderous intent. Having also checked the rear window she rushed back around the front and seemed to be going off after her cubs when she turned and launched herself at the rear passenger window where my son was sitting, swiping her paw across the glass with a loud 'bang' as she connected. Having failed to reach us she slowly slunk off after her cubs and was gone.

We were left with thumping hearts and regrettably few photographs as it all happened so quickly. It is entirely understandable that a leopard with tiny cubs would be hyper-protective and prepared to attack anything she sees as a threat to her babies and we suspect there may have been a third cub still on the other side of the road but we were left with several questions.

What would have happened if we had been in an open Safari Vehicle? What if we had small children in the back of the car and wind-up windows? Would overseas tourists on their first visit to Kruger react so quickly? It serves as a reminder of just how 'wild' Kruger can be. We consider ourselves very lucky to have had such a 'once in a lifetime' experience and are very relieved we are not making World News as a leopard kill!

Photographs © Janet & John Wills — Click thumbnails to view the enlargements as a sequence:

Porcupine Ridge

Porcupine Ridge Guest House

Janet and John extend a warm welcome to their beautiful country house, tucked away in the mountains at the heart of the Panorama Route, yet only minutes from the amenities of Sabie village and 50km from Kruger National Park. Porcupine Ridge has five immaculate en-suite bedrooms, a welcoming guest lounge with deep, comfy chairs, satellite TV and cosy fireplace, a spacious dining room and two large covered verandahs for relaxation and alfresco meals. Plenty of enclosed parking with lock up parking available if required ...

Visit Porcupine Ridge Guest House
Make a Booking

Useful Links:
Kruger National Park
Mpumalanga Game Reserves
South Africa Game Reserves

Photograph: I am ready for 2010. Are you? — By and © Endoneni Lodge

View and photograph these amazing animals at the Emdoneni Cat Rehabilitation Centre. Thet offer educational tours daily, with feedings during the afternoon tour and an informative talk about the animals and the project by an experienced guide. Contact Emdoneni Lodge on +27 (0)35 562‑7000 or see http://www.emdonenilodge.com/

Useful Links:
Hluhluwe Umfolozi Game Reserve
Hluhluwe Attractions
Hluhluwe Accommodation
KwaZulu Natal Accommodation

This particular dungbeetle was captured on film, in the malaria-free Addo Elephant National Park, which boasts the largest remaining population of this endangered beetle in the world. The main attraction of the Addo Elephant Park is the park’s 350 or so African Elephants. The Black Rhino and Cape Buffalo are also notable species, as are many other large herbivores, particularly antelope species such as kudu, eland, red hartebeest and springbok.

Photograph by and © Neville Cowen (UK)

You think you have problems, I live on this stuff and I can't fly

Dung beetles are beetles that feed partly or exclusively on faeces. Many dung beetles, known as rollers, are noted for rolling dung into spherical balls, which are used as a food source or brooding chambers. Other dung beetles, known as tunnelers, bury the dung wherever they find it. A third group, the dwellers, neither roll nor burrow: they simply live in manure. They are usually attracted by the dung burrowing owls collect. Dung beetles play a remarkable role in agriculture. By burying and consuming dung, they improve nutrient recycling and soil structure. They also protect livestock, such as cattle, by removing the dung which, if left, could provide a habitat for pests such as flies. (Source: wikipedia.com)

Useful Links:
South African Wildlife
South Africa Game Reserves

Bird's Eye View — Photograph by & © Noula Bouwer (South Africa)

Useful Links:
Learn more about the Giraffe at these fine sites:
The Giraffe on AWF.org
BBC Wildlife — The Giraffe (includes a "sounds like" clip)

Fighting Giraffe Video from Youtube.com (interesting footage)

All this is yours to enjoy at these very special rates which include all meals and game activities and are valid until 21st December 2009:
Double Occupancy — Special rate is R2250.00 per person sharing, per night (standard rates are R6100.00 per person)
Single Occupancy– Special rate is R3825.00 per person single, per night (standard rates are R9150.00 per person)

Note:
Includes all meals and game activites.
Please quote 'SA-Venues.com Main Lodge Special' when booking telephonically.
This special offer is subject to availability.

Safaris in open game viewing vehicles are conducted exclusively for Thanda guests on the virtually malaria-free 6000ha reserve. Thanda has recently introduced a breeding pack of wild dog onto the Big Five property — the first time this has happened on private land in KwaZulu-Natal.

Find out more:
For additional information about this spectacular Game Reserve visit Thanda Private Game Reserve or to make a booking or send an enquiry visit Thanda Gamre Reserve Rates & Bookings.

Useful Links:
Hluhluwe Attractions
Hluhluwe Accommodation
Things to Do in Hluhluwe
KwaZulu Natal Game Reserves

One of the attractions of selecting this reserve, and Mpila camp in particular, was that I could meet my young boys’ desire to camp, without having to sacrifice my need for a little comfort and some basic amenities. In fact the two bedded tents with en suite showers are anything but basic! I was thrilled to arrive and see two beautifully tented bedrooms, with wooden beds and cupboards and electricity, (which is on from 08h00 to 22h00) together with a wonderful reeded bathroom with flushing loo and full pressure shower. Now this was camping!

A well-equipped kitchen is connected to the two tents by a wooden boardwalk, which is raised above the ground to allow warthogs and impala to forage below you, which they literally do! Mpila is not a fenced off camp and so we were warned to watch our food on the braai, as the hyenas have a sneaky  means of removing it once your back is turned! (You need to watch young children too.)

The only hassle is the prevalence of monkeys that seem to emerge the minute one starts to prepare a meal. They are persistent and you can leave nothing out, hence even the fridge has a dog leash lock on it. On one occasion I left the kettle on the stove and returned to find a monkey drinking from it!

Bed time was most exciting when we cuddled up in our warm beds, zipped up the tents, which have mozzie screens, and drifted off into total blackness, punctuated by the odd hyena’s cry. The tents are well protected with mozzie screens and have full mosquito nets to enclose the beds, since Imfolozi falls into a malaria area. Another advantage of travelling during the winter though, is that the threat of malaria is extremely low, and we did not take prophylactics.

During the early mornings and evenings we generally tried to take a drive and sighted an abundance of zebra, impala, wildebeest, giraffe, several rhinos, hyenas and even a few lions in the distance. Our most exciting find was a pack of African Wild dogs, who had collapsed alongside the road, having indulged in an early morning kill. Mpila can easily be navigated in a standard vehicle, though a raised one is always better to spot the more rare species. We opted for a night drive run by the camp, which leaves at 18h00 and returns around 21h00. We did not see much that we had not spotted during the day, other than a few bunnies, but the excitement of travelling in an open, raised vehicle, ensured that my young boys adopted a nocturnal cycle!

Mpila has a small shop for emergency supplies, but there is no restaurant. The full reserve traverses an expanse of 960 km² and so one needs to be selective about the areas you choose to cover.

Our three nights in the tented camp cost R350 per adult and R175 per child per night (2009 rates), together with a R90 per person per day conservation levy (R45 for children). Our game drive cost R250 per adult and R125 per child.

Useful Links:
Hluhluwe Attractions
Hluhluwe Umfolozi Game Reserve
Hluhluwe Accommodation
Hluhluwe Hotels & Lodges

On a game drive in a private Big 5 reserve recently, I was disappointed to find that our game ranger was giving preference to these species, to the near exclusion, or rather, dismissal of other game species. There were 3 couples in the vehicle, one of which were first-time visitors from the USA. Speeding past numerous species of Antelope, Warthog and countless birds, we tracked lion (though it felt more like chased) for more than half of the game drive. Sadly, it seems as though our modern approach to life is rubbing off on our wildest and most preserved areas. Get in, get out – tick off as many species as possible in as short a time as possible.

Can’t speak for everyone, but as a visitor this is not my intention. Perhaps the most enjoyable thing about being on a game drive, is the sense of time coming to a complete stop. Looking out at an untouched landscape, taking the time to watch a bird soar through the sky, appreciate a magnificent sunset and marvel at the number of stars in the night sky – these are things, I regret to say, I find little time for in the city, but which leave me with a sense of well-being long after I’ve left.

I later saw check-in forms that had been completed by guests visiting the game lodge, and under “What do you hope to see during your stay”, I was saddened to note “Big 5” scrawled on almost all of them. I can understand this desire, as finding the elusive Leopard has been added to my bucket list, but I feel these desires are starting to change the way game drives are handled by game rangers. Foreigners visiting our country have more than likely never seen the “less in demand” species (except perhaps in a zoo) and I’d like us all to spend more time appreciating any species we’re lucky enough to come across.

To put my mind to rest that I’m not the only traveler who appreciates any sighting in a game reserve, I’m launching another photographers’ competition. Submit your photographs of any mammals, birdlife, reptiles or insects or any sunsets, landscapes, trees or even rocks that took your fancy, whilst visiting a game or nature reserve in South Africa. Find out more about the competition at Photographers Competition November 2009.

Photographs: Not the Big 5 ...

Useful Links:
South Africa Wildlife
South Africa Birdlife
South Africa Game Reserves

We happily abandoned our rental car (no private vehicles are allowed in the reserve) and scampered into the back of the open 4x4 safari vehicle, while our game ranger collected and stowed our luggage. Then we were off on our +/- 30 minute “transfer” to the lodge. Within minutes, Welgevonden lived up to the meaning of its name (well found), as we sloughed off the tiredness of the trip and found that sense of peace and the true relaxation that can only be experienced in the bush, with an almost immediate sighting of a Zebra mother and foal ...

The 34,000 hectare reserve is home to over 50 mammal species (including the Big 5), prolific birdlife (over 300 species) and more than 10 different lodges offering accommodation to visitors in search of the ultimate holiday — a game experience. The lodge we would be calling home for the next 3 days is Sediba Private Game Lodge. This 5 star, thoroughly luxurious lodge is set on a rocky hillside amidst a forested valley proliferated with trees and their warm and cold blooded inhabitants.

Arriving at the lodge, we were warmly greeted and escorted through the main lodge, to our own private chalet, one of only ten, all connected via wooden walkways. The lodge is unfenced and we were immediately advised to call reception for an escort should we wish to leave our suite at night. Though safe to walk around during the day, the lodge has been visited by the occasional predator and the adage “better safe than sorry” is immediately appreciated.

Our palatial suite could not have provided a more comfortable respite. The open-plan bedroom and lounge area feature floor to ceiling windows and doors opening onto our own private deck surrounded by trees, with a Jacuzzi for 2 and an outdoor shower.

Though at first disappointed that we’d arrived too late to join the afternoon game drive, this was swiftly allayed by the discovery of a troop of Vervet monkeys which seemed to have made the trees surrounding our chalet their sundowner spot for the day. We settled into the Jacuzzi with a glass of fine South African wine and watched them leap from branch to branch. Their inquisitive natures led them closer and closer (one was brave enough to scamper onto our deck), but just a movement or word from us and they’d disappear, darting back to the safety of the branches from which they’d come.

Nightfall brought its own wonders. After a quick outdoor shower as the sun set, we were collected with a smile and escorted to dinner. I won’t spoil the surprise, but let me assure you that dinner at Sediba is an event and though you may be tempted to indulge in a candle-lit dinner in the privacy of your suite (something I highly recommend), make sure that you experience at least one dinner in the Boma.

Although not one who enjoys waking up early the 6am wake-up call had me bounding out of bed, eager to set off on our first game drive. Moments later we had embarked, cameras and binoculars in tow. Three of the Big 5 graced us with their presence over the course of the next 2 days — lion, elephant and rhino (Welgevonden boasts one of the largest rhino populations of any private game reserve in South Africa) – but my favourite sightings are always of the “less in demand” inhabitants of the reserve – a herd of Waterbuck making a hasty retreat and thereby showing off their target-like markings on their rears, Warthog scrounging and digging for roots, Klipspringers hopping from rock to rock, being introduced to a huge scorpion.

Between game drives, indulge in a massage at the Health & Wellness Centre, take a dip in the pool or relax on the deck with a good book. If you like to sit and watch the open plains in the hopes of spotting some game, Sediba may not be for you. Its location, though stunning, does not offer great game watching from the lodge itself — you are unlikely to look out and see giraffe, antelope or other large game, though monkeys, birds, butterflies and the odd klipspringer are frequent visitors. But Sediba offers a tranquillity seldom experienced elsewhere. That delicious sense of boredom, which leads to an afternoon nap, is so rare in today’s frantic lifestyle and to read for 4 hours and not feel like one should be doing something more productive, is an unexpected joy.

Two days later, setting off on our return journey to Johannesburg, it wasn’t long before our cellphones began chirping again and the roads became progressively busier as we approached the airport. I felt a sweet sense of loss — one which will only be alleviated with my return to the African bush. Peace, tranquillity, relaxation and an appreciation for our natural heritage are well found at Welgevonden Private Game Reserve.

Photographs: Click on the thumbnails to view large photographs:

Useful Links:
Welgevonden Hotels
Welgevonden Game Reserve
Limpopo Game Reserves
South Africa Game Reserves

Whilst you can fly into Richards Bay or even Ulundi, my advice is that you don't. Rather let the sticky, muggy and dense atmosphere insidiously take hold of you during the drive, at the same time as the Elephant coast and its wrenching beauty impress themselves upon you.

Mkuze Game Reserve, not to be confused with Mkuze Falls private Game Reserve, makes up the northern portion of the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park, a World Heritage site. Mkuze Game Reserve is 40 000 hectares of some of the most splendid natural beauty available. Obviously a stay here depends on you and your holiday needs, but there is something about the untamed beauty of this coastline that is fascinating and an attractive option at any time of year.

This part of the coast has been a protected area since 1912. The Mkuze River that wends its way along the eastern and northern borders is a huge attraction for birds of all shapes and sizes, and one of the major draw cards to the reserve. The eastern boundary is hugged by the Lebombo Mountains, which provide a further wooded and swamp habitat, and Mkuze is also the home of a sand forest, a rare occurrence anywhere.

But of course, one is here mainly to see the animals, and see them we did. There are various options for accommodation that mostly fall just outside the reserve. There are not a terrific number of places to stay within Mkuze. Mantuma Camp, where we opted to stay, is a series of safari tents and chalets, Umkhumbi is a tented bush lodge, and Nhlonhlela Bush Lodge is the most luxurious of the options. You can camp in the Emshopi camp ground as well, but we opted for the tented Mantuma, rather than staying on a bordering game farm. Interestingly, Mantuma camp closed briefly last year when the boreholes in Mkuze dried up, but it's open again, and has to be one of the best such camps around.

We were set up in self-catering Tented Safari Camp that has ten two-bed and three four-bed units available, each with its own en-suit bathrooms (and yes, there is running hot water, not that you need it most of the time) and an open plan kitchen. The tents are really nicely furnished (obviously this is not luxury camping, but it's more than one needs when getting back to basics in the bush). Best of all is that great care has been taken to make sure that the tents blend in with their environment.

And may I just interject with a suggestion. Take a torch! Between us, we managed to forget this one obvious and rather imperative item. Nights are dark. Very dark ...

And there was plenty to do. Our days were easily filled with lazy mornings, followed by drives through the reserve — you can self-drive Mkuze. We even tried one of the guided game walks, which I can highly recommend. We met up with our guide at 6am sharp, despite its being rather difficult to emerge from our tents quite so early. The park was alive with bird calls, and because it was so early, and most of our party was prepared to uphold the 'quiet if you want to see anything' rule, we managed to witness quite a bit — and it's that much more amazing on foot.

That morning revealed a couple of warthogs, upon whom we stumbled close to the northern Nhlonhlela pan, where we managed to sight a hippo returning to the water, where they tend to spend most of their days. The pan was relatively quiet that morning, with only a handful of pelicans and a variety of ducks and geese. But the highlight was undoubtedly stumbling upon (if one can stumble across such huge beasts — I still battle with how we managed to get so close without their knowing) a small group of elephants! We were allowed to watch their morning ablutions without interruption, and, possibly because they knew we meant no harm, they unabashedly romped in the mud, spraying themselves and one another with bursts of water.

There are three other pans — Kubube, Kamasinga and Kwamalibala — all of which have game viewing hides, which you can enter on foot having left your car parked nearby. These waterholes are great, particularly in the late hours of the afternoon when the heat of the day has started to wear off and animals feel the urge to quench their thirst.

In this way we saw a number of antelope, including kudu, giraffe and even a rhino, which someone later explained was a black rhino (although he was in the distance and didn't appear too keen on entering the fray) — the reserve is home to both white and black varieties. We didn't manage to spot any cheetah. They are more elusive and you're lucky if you can sight them.

The highlight was the Nsumo pan, which has been nicknamed the 'king-size water birdbath' for its popularity with any number of water fowl.

We'll be back!

Mkuze Game Reserve Photographs — Click thumbnails to view:

Useful Links:
Mkuze Game Reserve
Mkuze Accommodation
KwaZulu Natal Accommodation
KwaZulu Natal Game Reserves

Constantia may lay claim to Kirstenbosch (admittedly gorgeous, but over a weekend it is inundated) but Plumstead (well, okay, Grassy Park) has a unique eco spot in the city where you can see hippos, a part of the world where hippos were once a plenty ...

Besides, it's not as if Kirstenbosch made it into the recent Rough Guides' Clean Breaks – 500 new ways to see the world! Up there with 'must do's' like the Natural heritage at Isimangaliso Wetland Park, Kayak with whales in Plettenberg Bay and take an eco-wine tour (Green Mountain Eco Route), one of the 50 or so clean breaks for Southern Africa was — see hippos near Cape Town.

Photograph by g-hat on Flickr.com (creative commons license).

It is possible to see big game whilst in Cape Town. Rondevlei Nature Reserve in Grassy Park (that's just across the M5 from Southfield) boasts the only resident hippo population in the Cape. The two nature reserves lie side-by-side, although to reach Seekoevlei, you need first to drive out of Rondevlei and around to the Seekoevlei entrance gate; they are not connected, unfortunately. But the proximity of Seekoevlei adds an even greater body of water to Rondevlei.

Rondevlei has some of the most spectacular views. Close to the sea here, you are surrounded by water with clear views of the range of mountains that dominate the southern suburbs of Cape Town. This protected area is 2km² of wetland and lake, and a seriously great place to be first thing in the morning, when the sun still glints off spiders' webs and the calls of water birds rent the air.

It's also the time of day when people are least likely to disturb you, and you are free to stroll along the pathways that lead from one bird hide to another (six hides in all). Ibis, herons, gannets, egrets, even kingfishers (we spotted one just next to us on a path one morning) make this their home. Aside from the 230 different types of birds, there are also very visible mongooses and other little reptiles, as well as the big guys – hippos (although try as you might, they are particularly illusive, unless you count spotting their fecial matter right on the path as 'seeing' them).

No, unfortunately hippos are not the tubby, friendly fellows portrayed in disney movies. The third-largest living land mammal they might be, but because of their tendency to hide-out in the water, hippos (unlike elephants and white rhinos) are particularly difficult to see. Hippopotamus actually means 'river horse' with a mouth that opens up to four feet wide, so it's probably just as well that they prefer anonymity.

They're also related to camels, whales and deer, interestingly, and spend just about all day in the water (they can stay submerged, if you were wondering, for up to 30 minutes, but usually stay under for around 5 minutes). It's only really at night, after sunset, that they'll leave the water behind and come up to the land to munch a few things. They also make more than a few grunting and screaming sounds whilst underwater to communicate with one another, hence their relation to whales.

They eat mainly grasses and reeds (plenty of that at Rondevlei) and are largely nocturnal feeders. And they use their excrement to mark their territories, flinging it around with their tails, which explains the rather liberal doses we found on the path early one morning.

There are two lookout towers at Rondevlei that may give you an advantage over the hippo, allowing you to spot the odd head should it emerge (although we've yet to see one). And Imvubu Nature Tours is a community-based tourism company based at Rondevlei that arranges island bush camps, boat trips to find the hippos and a couple of guided nature walks that take you through Rondevlei's 'medicine cabinet' of indigenous vegetation.

Here's to spotting a hippo!

Useful Links:
Cape Town Nature Reserves
Cape Town Attractions
Cape Town Bed & Breakfasts
Western Cape Accommodation